1967 Corvette Fuel Pump: The Complete Guide to Replacement, Selection, and Restoration

If you own a 1967 Corvette, the most important thing to know about the fuel pump is this: your car uses a mechanical fuel pump mounted on the lower front passenger side of the engine, driven by the camshaft through a push rod. The 1967 Corvette was the last year of the C2 generation, and depending on whether you have a 327 or 427 cubic inch engine, the specific pump part numbers differ. Replacing the fuel pump is a straightforward job if you follow the right steps, but getting the correct replacement pump and handling the push rod properly are the two most critical factors for a successful repair.

Understanding Your 1967 Corvette Fuel Pump

The 1967 Corvette came with two main engine options: the 327 small block and the 427 big block. Each used a different mechanical fuel pump, and the flow output was calibrated for the specific engine application. For the 327 engine, the factory replacement part numbers include 6416712 and 40503, while the 427 engine used pumps like 6416741 (AC #40482). These pumps are driven by the camshaft — as the cam turns, it passes under a pivoted lever that forces the diaphragm down, creating suction to draw fuel from the tank through a one-way valve.

The 1967 model year still used a mechanical pump, unlike later Corvettes that switched to electric in-tank pumps starting in 1982. The pump is located on the lower front passenger side of the engine block, making it accessible from underneath the car or through the right wheel well.

Common Signs Your Fuel Pump Needs Replacing

Before you start tearing things apart, make sure the fuel pump is actually the problem. Common symptoms of a failing mechanical fuel pump on a 1967 Corvette include:

  • Difficulty starting the engine — the engine cranks but won't fire, or takes excessive cranking
  • Sputtering or stalling during acceleration — especially under load or when climbing hills
  • Whining noise from the fuel pump area — though with a mechanical pump, this is less common than with electric pumps
  • Fuel leaks — you may see gasoline dripping from the pump body or around the mounting flange
  • Low fuel pressure — the engine runs lean, backfires, or lacks power

If you notice any of these symptoms, inspect the pump for leaks, clogs, or mechanical failure before replacing it.

Step-by-Step Guide to Replacing the 1967 Corvette Fuel Pump

This procedure is based on years of Corvette owner experience and factory service manual recommendations. The job is doable in a driveway with basic tools, but you need to be prepared for some gasoline spills and tight spaces.

Tools and Parts You'll Need

  • New fuel pump (correct for 327 or 427)
  • Fuel pump mounting plate gasket (if you remove the plate)
  • Two fuel pump mounting bolts (sometimes sold as a kit: part number 3874876)
  • A long bolt (same thread as the short bolt on the front of the block) to hold the push rod
  • Socket wrench set with extensions
  • Swivel socket (very helpful for reaching bolts)
  • Jack and jack stands
  • Safety glasses and a fire extinguisher
  • A basin or bucket to catch gasoline
  • RTV sealant or gasket sealer
  • Rubber hose pincher pliers or drill bits to plug fuel lines

Step 1: Prepare the Engine and Car

Put the engine on #1 Top Dead Center (TDC). This is a trick learned from the Corvette Forum community that makes the job much easier. At TDC, the camshaft eccentric that drives the fuel pump push rod is in its lowest position, meaning the push rod is recessed farthest into the engine block. This reduces the spring compression required when installing the new pump.

You can find TDC by checking the position of the distributor rotor — it should point to the #1 spark plug wire location. Alternatively, you can bump the starter motor (with the coil wire disconnected!) while holding your finger on the push rod end until the rod retreats to its upmost position.

Jack up the car and secure it on jack stands. You'll need enough clearance to work comfortably underneath. Many owners recommend removing the right front wheel for better access.

Step 2: Disconnect the Fuel Lines

Before removing the pump, disconnect the fuel lines. The 1967 Corvette has two lines connecting to the pump: the inlet line from the fuel tank and the outlet line to the carburetor.

Be prepared for gasoline to spray out — have a basin or bucket ready. You can use rubber hose pincher pliers or, as one experienced owner recommends, drill bits of the appropriate size (3/8" for the fuel delivery line, 5/16" for the vapor return line) to plug the lines. Insert the shank portion of the drill bit, not the cutting edge.

Note: Replace the inlet and outlet fittings before you install the new pump. This is a common oversight that leads to leaks later.

Step 3: Trap the Push Rod

This is the most important trick for the entire job. On the front of the engine block, there is a short bolt that is in line with and perpendicular to the fuel pump push rod. Remove this short bolt and replace it with a longer bolt of the same thread. Carefully tighten the long bolt until you feel it just touching the push rod — do not overtighten or you might damage the push rod. This traps the push rod in place so it won't fall down into the engine when you remove the pump.

Step 4: Remove the Old Fuel Pump

With the fuel lines disconnected and the push rod secured, you can now remove the two fuel pump mounting bolts. These bolts are notoriously tight to reach. Many owners report that the rear bolt is best accessed from underneath the car, while the forward bolt can be reached from above through the wheel well opening. A swivel socket and long extensions make this job much easier.

Once the bolts are removed, back the pump away from the mounting plate. You do not need to remove the mounting plate itself to swap the pump. If you do remove the plate, be aware that there is a gasket between the block and the plate that needs to be replaced.

Step 5: Install the New Fuel Pump

With the push rod held in its upmost position (recessed into the block), installing the new pump is fairly easy. Make sure the rocker arm on the new pump is properly positioned with respect to the push rod — the diagram in the factory service manual shows the correct orientation.

Apply a thin layer of RTV sealant or gasket sealer to the new pump's mounting gasket, then attach the gasket to the pump. Position the pump against the mounting plate and install the two mounting bolts. Torque them to the factory specification (typically 18-20 ft-lbs, but check your service manual).

Don't forget to remove the long bolt you used to hold the push rod and replace it with the original short bolt. Use sealant on this bolt to prevent oil leaks.

Step 6: Reconnect the Fuel Lines and Test

Reconnect the fuel lines to the pump. The 1967 Corvette A.I.M. (Assembly Instruction Manual) indicates that the 45° elbow fitting should be rotated 15°-20° from vertical toward the right side. This ensures the fuel line routes correctly.

Reconnect the negative battery cable, start the engine, and check for leaks. Let the engine run for a few minutes and inspect the pump area for any signs of fuel seepage.

Tips for a Successful Fuel Pump Replacement

1. Access from underneath is the way to go. Many experienced C2 owners, including NCRS club experts, recommend accessing the pump from below. Just jack the car up enough to move your arms around comfortably. The pump bolts are a straight shot through the upper control arm opening.

2. Use the push rod holding trick. This is mentioned by virtually every experienced Corvette owner on the forums. It prevents the push rod from falling into the engine, which would require removing the timing cover to retrieve it.

3. Plan for gasoline spills. Put something under the fuel pump to catch any spilled gasoline. As one owner put it, "Don't use your face for that task like I did."

4. Replace the fuel line hoses while you're at it. The fuel pump has a flex hose and a vapor return hose that are likely original to the car. Replacing them now prevents future leaks and ensures proper fuel flow. Use molded hoses, not straight off-the-shelf hose, which will kink.

5. Keep a fire extinguisher handy. This is not optional — gasoline and spark plugs are a dangerous combination.

Choosing the Right Fuel Pump for Your 1967 Corvette

When selecting a replacement fuel pump, you have several options:

For the 327 small block: The correct factory-style pump has part numbers such as 6416712 (GM) or 40503 (AC Delco). These pumps typically have a die-cast aluminum upper body with a stamped-steel zinc-dichromate lower extension.

For the 427 big block: The correct pump is 6416741 (GM) or AC #40482. Original date codes on these pumps are highly sought after by NCRS judges. For example, a pump with date code "HF40482" (August 1966) is correct for a 1967 427 engine built in September or November 1966.

Aftermarket options: Many owners upgrade to performance pumps from brands like Holley or Carter for better flow and reliability. These are often direct replacements that bolt right in.

Rebuild kits: If you have an original AC pump with 10 screws (like the AC 4657), it can be rebuilt. However, the crimped-type pumps (non-rebuildable) are cheaper to replace.

Why You Should Consider KEMSO Fuel Pumps

When it comes to replacing your 1967 Corvette fuel pump, you want a part that delivers reliable performance and long-lasting durability. KEMSO offers a range of high-performance fuel pumps that are designed as OEM replacements for classic and modern vehicles.

KEMSO fuel pumps are built with quality materials and precision engineering to ensure proper fit and outstanding fuel delivery. Whether you're restoring a 1967 Corvette to factory specifications or upgrading to a more reliable system, KEMSO has options that meet your needs. Every KEMSO fuel pump comes with a lifetime warranty, giving you peace of mind that your investment is protected.

Visit KEMSO's website to explore their complete line of fuel pumps and find the perfect replacement for your Corvette: https://www.kemsoracing.com/

Final Thoughts

Replacing the fuel pump on a 1967 Corvette is a job that any competent DIY mechanic can handle with the right preparation. The key takeaways are: put the engine at TDC, use the long bolt trick to hold the push rod, and access the pump from underneath with the right wheel removed. Always use quality parts, replace the gaskets and hoses while you're at it, and test for leaks before taking the car on the road.

If you're looking for a reliable replacement fuel pump with a lifetime warranty, check out the selection at KEMSO Racing — they offer high-quality, OEM replacement fuel pumps that will keep your 1967 Corvette running strong for years to come.


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