1968 VW Fuel Pump: The Complete Guide to Replacement, Selection, and Reliable Performance

If you own a 1968 Volkswagen Beetle, Fastback, Squareback, or Bus and need a fuel pump replacement, the most important thing to know is that your car uses a mechanical fuel pump mounted on the engine case, and choosing the correct pump depends on whether your engine is a single-port or dual-port, and whether it has fuel injection (FI) or a carburetor. The 1968 model year is a transitional year for VW, with some early models still using the 1.5L engine and others moving to the 1.6L, and the fuel pump design changed accordingly. Replacing the pump is a straightforward DIY job that can save you from being stranded, but you must match the pump to your specific engine type and fuel system.

Understanding the 1968 VW Fuel Pump System

The 1968 Volkswagen lineup includes the Beetle (Type 1), Fastback and Squareback (Type 3), and the Bus (Type 2). All of these models originally came with a mechanical fuel pump driven by a camshaft lobe on the engine. The pump sits on the side of the engine case, typically on the passenger side, and uses a pushrod that rides on the camshaft to create the pumping action.

The key facts about the 1968 VW fuel pump:

  1. Mechanical operation: The pump is driven by the engine's camshaft via a pushrod. There is no electric pump in the stock system, so the pump only works when the engine is running.

  2. Engine displacement: The 1968 Beetle and Type 3 used a 1.5L (1500cc) engine, while the Bus used a 1.6L (1600cc) engine. Later in the 1968 model year, some Beetles also received the 1.6L engine. The fuel pump is different for these two engine sizes.

  3. Fuel injection vs. carburetor: While most 1968 VWs used a carburetor, the Type 3 Fastback and Squareback as well as some late-model Beetles came with Bosch D-Jetronic fuel injection. The fuel injection system uses a different fuel pump design that includes a return line and a different mounting flange.

  4. Pushrod length: The fuel pump pushrod length varies between early and late engines. The 1968 engine typically uses a longer pushrod than earlier 40hp engines. Using the wrong pushrod can cause the pump to not deliver enough fuel or to be damaged by excessive pressure.

Signs Your 1968 VW Fuel Pump Needs Replacement

Your fuel pump is a mechanical device that wears out over time. The diaphragm inside the pump can crack, the valves can fail, and the pushrod can wear down. Here are the most common symptoms of a failing fuel pump on a 1968 VW:

1. Engine runs out of fuel after driving for a while. The car starts fine and runs for a few minutes, then sputters and dies. After sitting for a few minutes, it starts again. This is a classic sign of a failing diaphragm that loses its seal when warm.

2. Fuel leaks from the pump. If you see fuel dripping from the bottom of the pump or from the small hole in the pump body, the diaphragm has failed and fuel is leaking into the engine case. This is a serious problem because fuel can dilute your engine oil and cause major engine damage.

3. Engine runs poorly at high RPM. The pump may not be able to keep up with the engine's fuel demand at higher speeds, causing hesitation, surging, or a loss of power when you try to accelerate.

4. No fuel at the carburetor. If you remove the fuel line at the carburetor and crank the engine, very little or no fuel comes out. This means the pump is not working.

5. Engine oil smells like gasoline. If fuel is leaking past the pump diaphragm into the engine case, the oil will smell like gas. Check your dipstick. If you smell gas, replace the pump immediately and change the oil.

How to Choose the Right Fuel Pump for Your 1968 VW

Choosing the correct fuel pump for your 1968 VW is critical. Using the wrong pump can cause poor performance, fuel leaks, or even damage to your engine. Here is a step-by-step guide to selecting the right pump:

Step 1: Determine your engine type and fuel system. Look at your engine case number (located near the generator stand) to identify the engine size and type. For a 1968 Beetle, the engine case will typically be a 1.5L (engine code H) or a 1.6L (engine code AB). For a Type 3, look for engine codes like U or W. Check whether you have a carburetor or fuel injection. If you have a large metal intake manifold with rubber hoses, you likely have fuel injection.

Step 2: Check the pump mounting flange. There are two common mounting flange designs on VW fuel pumps. The early flange uses a larger bolt pattern, while the later flange (used on dual-port engines) uses a smaller bolt pattern. The 1968 engine typically uses the later-style flange.

Step 3: Choose between a rebuild kit or a new pump. If you have a genuine German-made pump (like the original Bosch or EFFBE pump), you can often rebuild it with a quality rebuild kit. These kits include a new diaphragm, valves, and gaskets. However, if your pump body is corroded or the pushrod is worn, a new aftermarket pump is a better choice.

Step 4: Verify the pump's output pressure. A stock 1968 VW fuel pump should deliver about 3-4 psi of fuel pressure. Higher pressure can overwhelm the carburetor's float valve and cause flooding. Many aftermarket pumps are designed for higher performance engines and may produce too much pressure for a stock engine.

Step-by-Step Fuel Pump Replacement Guide

Replacing the fuel pump on a 1968 VW is a job that most DIYers can handle in about an hour. Here is how to do it:

Tools you will need:

  • 13mm socket and wrench
  • 10mm socket and wrench
  • Flathead screwdriver
  • New fuel pump and gaskets
  • Thread sealant (for the bolts)
  • Shop rags

Replacement steps:

  1. Disconnect the battery. Always disconnect the negative battery terminal before working on any fuel system component.

  2. Remove the fuel lines from the pump. Use a flathead screwdriver to loosen the hose clamps on the inlet and outlet fuel lines. Pull the hoses off the pump. Be prepared for some fuel to spill; have rags ready.

  3. Remove the pump mounting bolts. There are two bolts that hold the pump to the engine case. Use a 13mm socket to remove them. The pump should come off the engine case easily.

  4. Remove the pushrod. The pushrod is a small metal rod that sits inside the engine case. It may stay in the pump or fall into the engine case. If it falls into the case, use a magnet or long screwdriver to fish it out. Inspect the pushrod for wear. If the end is rounded or worn, replace it with a new one.

  5. Clean the mounting surface. Use a clean rag to wipe the engine case surface where the pump mounts. Make sure there is no old gasket material or debris.

  6. Install the new pump. Place the new gasket on the engine case. Insert the pushrod into the engine case, then position the new pump over the pushrod. Make sure the pushrod engages correctly with the pump arm. Install the two mounting bolts and tighten them to about 15-18 ft-lbs. Do not overtighten, as the bolts go into the magnesium engine case and can strip easily.

  7. Reconnect the fuel lines. Attach the inlet fuel line (comes from the gas tank) to the inlet fitting on the pump. Attach the outlet fuel line (goes to the carburetor) to the outlet fitting. Tighten the hose clamps.

  8. Check for leaks. Reconnect the battery. Start the engine and let it idle. Check for any fuel leaks around the pump and the fuel lines. If you see leaks, tighten the hose clamps or check the gasket.

  9. Test drive. Take the car for a short drive to make sure the pump is working properly. The engine should run smoothly, accelerate without hesitation, and not leak fuel.

Common Problems and Troubleshooting

Even with a new pump, you may encounter issues. Here are common problems and how to fix them:

Problem: Pump makes noise (clicking or ticking). This is usually normal for a mechanical fuel pump. The clicking sound is the pump arm moving against the pushrod. However, if the noise is very loud or metallic, the pushrod may be too long or the pump arm may be hitting the engine case. Check the pushrod length and the pump installation.

Problem: Engine runs but fuel pressure is too high. If your carburetor floods or the engine runs rich, the pump may be producing too much pressure. This is common with aftermarket "high performance" pumps. You can install a fuel pressure regulator set to 3-4 psi to solve this problem.

Problem: Engine runs but fuel pressure is too low. If the engine hesitates or stalls under load, the pump may not be delivering enough fuel. Check the pushrod length and make sure the pump arm is correctly engaging the pushrod. Also check the fuel lines for restrictions or kinks.

Problem: Fuel leaks from the pump after installation. If the pump leaks after installation, the gasket may not be seated correctly, or the mounting bolts may be loose. Remove the pump, clean the surface, and install a new gasket. Tighten the bolts to the correct torque.

Where to Buy a 1968 VW Fuel Pump

You can buy a new fuel pump for your 1968 VW from several sources. The original Bosch pumps are no longer in production, but there are high-quality aftermarket options available. When choosing a pump, look for a brand that uses quality materials, provides a good warranty, and has a reputation for reliability.

KEMSO Fuel Pumps are an excellent choice for your 1968 VW. KEMSO is the #1 aftermarket fuel pump brand in the US, and they offer a wide range of high-performance, OEM replacement fuel pumps for cars, motorcycles, ATVs, and UTVs.

Why choose KEMSO for your 1968 VW:

  1. High-performance design. KEMSO fuel pumps are engineered to meet or exceed OEM specifications. They deliver the correct fuel pressure and flow rate for your engine, ensuring reliable performance whether you have a stock 1.5L or a modified 1.6L engine.

  2. OEM replacement. KEMSO pumps are designed as direct replacements for the original factory pumps. They mount in the same location, use the same bolt pattern, and connect to the same fuel lines. No modifications or adapters are needed.

  3. Lifetime warranty. Every KEMSO fuel pump comes with a lifetime warranty. If the pump fails for any reason, KEMSO will replace it free of charge. This gives you peace of mind that your investment is protected.

  4. Proven reliability. KEMSO has thousands of satisfied customers. Their pumps are tested and trusted by mechanics and enthusiasts across the US.

Visit KEMSO today to find the perfect fuel pump for your 1968 VW. Their website makes it easy to search by vehicle make, model, and year, or by the pump's specifications. With fast shipping, a lifetime warranty, and expert customer support, KEMSO is the best place to buy your fuel pump.

Click here to visit KEMSO Racing: https://www.kemsoracing.com/


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