2000 Jeep Cherokee Fuel Pump Fuse: Quick Diagnosis and Fix Guide

If your 2000 Jeep Cherokee won’t start or stalls while driving, the fuel pump fuse is often the first place to check. This small, inexpensive component can save you hours of troubleshooting and hundreds of dollars in unnecessary repairs. The fuel pump fuse is located in the Power Distribution Center (PDC) under the hood, on the passenger side near the battery. It is a 15-amp mini fuse, typically labeled as “Fuel Pump” or associated with the fuel pump relay circuit. Before you replace any major parts, always inspect this fuse first—it is the most common cause of fuel delivery issues in the XJ Cherokee.

Understanding Your 2000 Jeep Cherokee’s Fuel System

The 2000 Jeep Cherokee XJ has a straightforward fuel system. The fuel pump sits inside the fuel tank and pushes gasoline to the engine. The pump needs electricity to work, and that power comes through a dedicated circuit protected by the fuel pump fuse. When the fuse blows, the pump stops working, and the engine gets no fuel.

Your Cherokee has two fuse boxes. The one you need for the fuel pump is under the hood, called the Power Distribution Center (PDC). The second box, called the Junction Block, is inside the cabin under the dashboard. The fuel pump fuse is only in the PDC.

Where to Find the Fuel Pump Fuse

Open the hood of your 2000 Jeep Cherokee. Look on the passenger side, near the battery. You will see a black plastic box with a large cover. This is the Power Distribution Center (PDC). Unclip the two or three retaining clips on the front and back of the lid and lift it off.

Inside the PDC, you will see rows of fuses and relays. The fuel pump fuse is a mini fuse rated at 15 amps. In most 2000 models, it is located in position #22. However, the exact location can vary slightly depending on options like ABS or towing packages. Always check the diagram printed on the underside of the PDC cover for the exact layout.

How to Check the Fuel Pump Fuse

Step 1: Visual Inspection. Pull the fuse out using a fuse puller or your fingers. Hold it up to the light. Look for a broken metal wire inside the plastic. If the wire is broken, the fuse is blown.

Step 2: Test with a Multimeter. Set your multimeter to continuity or ohms. Touch one probe to each metal tab on the fuse. If you hear a beep or see a low resistance reading, the fuse is good. If there is no beep or the reading is infinite, the fuse is blown.

Step 3: Test with a Test Light. Clip the test light to a ground. Touch the probe to each metal tab on the fuse. If the light turns on for both tabs, the fuse is good. If it only lights one side, the fuse is blown.

What to Do If the Fuse Is Blown

If you find a blown fuel pump fuse, do not just replace it and drive away. A blown fuse usually means there is an underlying problem. Here is what to do next:

  1. Replace the fuse with a new 15-amp mini fuse of the same type. Never use a higher amperage fuse, as this can cause wiring damage or a fire.
  2. Try to start the engine. If it starts and runs fine, the fuse may have blown due to a one-time spike. Keep driving and check the fuse again later.
  3. If the new fuse blows immediately, you have a bigger problem. The most common causes are a failing fuel pump motor that draws too much current, or a short circuit in the wiring harness.
  4. Check the fuel pump relay. You can swap the fuel pump relay with a similar relay in the PDC, like the horn relay or the A/C relay. If the engine starts after the swap, the relay is bad.

Common Symptoms of a Bad Fuel Pump Fuse or Relay

Knowing the symptoms helps you diagnose quickly. Here are the most common signs that your fuel pump fuse or relay may be failing:

  • No start condition: The engine cranks but will not fire. You turn the key and hear the starter, but the engine does not start.
  • No fuel pump hum: When you turn the ignition key to the “ON” position (without starting), you should hear a brief humming sound from the rear of the vehicle. This is the fuel pump pressurizing the system. If you do not hear it, the pump is not getting power.
  • Engine stalls while driving: The car runs fine, then suddenly dies. This can happen if the fuel pump loses power intermittently.
  • Hard starting: The engine takes longer than usual to start, especially after sitting for a while.
  • Loss of power: The engine feels sluggish and does not accelerate well, especially going uphill.

Other Fuses and Relays to Check

If the fuel pump fuse is good, check other related fuses and relays. The fuel pump circuit is connected to several other components. Here are the ones to inspect:

  • Fuel Pump Relay (R5 in PDC): This relay sends power to the fuel pump. If it fails, the pump will not run even with a good fuse.
  • Automatic Shut Down (ASD) Relay (R10): This relay controls power to the fuel pump, ignition coil, and fuel injectors. If it fails, the engine will not start.
  • Fuse #11 in the Junction Block (20A): This fuse powers the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) and the fuel pump relay circuit. If this fuse is blown, the fuel pump will not get the signal to run.
  • Fuse #10 in the Junction Block (15A): This fuse powers the backup lamps, transmission range sensor, and other sensors that can affect the fuel pump circuit.

Step-by-Step Troubleshooting Guide

Follow this order to systematically diagnose your fuel pump issue. Do not skip steps.

  1. Listen for the fuel pump. Turn the ignition key to “ON” (do not start). Listen for a 2-3 second hum from the rear of the car. If you hear it, the pump is getting power and the fuse is likely good.
  2. Check the fuel pump fuse. Open the PDC, find the 15-amp mini fuse for the fuel pump. Inspect it visually and test with a multimeter or test light.
  3. Check the fuel pump relay. With the ignition off, remove the fuel pump relay. Swap it with a relay of the same type (like the horn relay). Try to start the engine. If it starts, the relay is bad.
  4. Check the ASD relay. The Automatic Shut Down relay is often in the PDC. It controls power to the fuel pump and other systems. Test it the same way by swapping with a known good relay.
  5. Check the Junction Block fuses. Open the interior fuse box under the dashboard. Check fuses #10, #11, and any other fuses related to the PCM or transmission. Replace any blown fuses.
  6. Inspect the wiring harness. Look for damaged, chafed, or corroded wires near the fuel tank, under the hood, and along the frame. Common problem areas include the harness near the rear axle and the connector at the fuel pump module.
  7. Test the fuel pump directly. If all fuses and relays are good, you may need to test the fuel pump itself. This requires removing the rear seat or dropping the fuel tank. Use a multimeter to check for power at the fuel pump connector while a helper turns the key to “ON”.

Tips for Preventing Future Fuel Pump Fuse Problems

A few simple habits can prevent blown fuses and keep your Cherokee running reliably.

  • Keep your fuel tank at least half full. Running on low fuel can cause the fuel pump to overheat, which can damage the motor and cause it to draw more current. This extra current can blow the fuse.
  • Use the correct fuse amperage. Always replace a blown fuse with a 15-amp mini fuse. Never use a 20-amp or 30-amp fuse to bypass a problem. This can cause major electrical damage and fire.
  • Inspect the wiring regularly. Look for signs of wear, corrosion, or rodent damage, especially on the wiring harness near the fuel tank. Repair any damage promptly.
  • Replace the fuel pump relay every 5-7 years. Relays can wear out over time and fail without warning. A new relay is inexpensive and can prevent a no-start situation.
  • Use a fuse puller. When removing fuses, use a plastic fuse puller. Metal tools can cause short circuits and damage the fuse box.

When to Replace the Fuel Pump

If you have checked all fuses, relays, and wiring, and the fuel pump still does not run, the pump itself may be bad. A fuel pump typically lasts 7-10 years or 100,000 miles. Signs that the pump is failing include:

  • Whining noise from the fuel tank. This indicates the pump is working harder than normal.
  • Long crank times before starting. The pump may be losing its ability to build pressure.
  • Engine sputters at high speeds. The pump cannot deliver enough fuel under load.
  • No fuel pressure. A mechanic can test the fuel pressure at the fuel rail. If it is below specification, the pump is likely bad.

Recommended Fuel Pump Upgrade

If you need to replace your fuel pump, choosing a high-quality replacement is essential for reliability and performance. We recommend the KEMSO Fuel Pump for your 2000 Jeep Cherokee.

KEMSO Fuel Pump Features:

  • High Performance: Designed to meet or exceed OEM specifications, ensuring proper fuel flow and pressure for your engine.
  • OEM Replacement: Direct fit for your 2000 Jeep Cherokee XJ, no modifications needed. Easy to install with the same connectors and mounting points.
  • Lifetime Warranty: KEMSO stands behind their products. Every fuel pump comes with a lifetime warranty, giving you peace of mind on and off the road.

Don’t settle for a cheap, unreliable fuel pump that could leave you stranded. Invest in a KEMSO fuel pump for long-lasting performance.

Visit KEMSO Racing today: https://www.kemsoracing.com/

Final Thoughts

The 2000 Jeep Cherokee fuel pump fuse is a simple but critical component. Checking it first can save you time, money, and frustration. Always start your diagnosis with the fuse, then move to the relay, wiring, and finally the pump itself. With the right tools and a systematic approach, you can fix most fuel pump electrical issues in your driveway.

Remember to keep a spare 15-amp mini fuse and a spare fuel pump relay in your glove box. These small parts can get you back on the road quickly if you have a problem on the trail or during a road trip.

For the best replacement fuel pump, choose KEMSO for high performance, OEM fitment, and a lifetime warranty. Visit https://www.kemsoracing.com/ to see their full line of Jeep Cherokee fuel system components.


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