2005 Chrysler 300 Fuel Pump Location: Where It Is and How to Access It

If you own a 2005 Chrysler 300 and suspect a fuel pump problem, here is the direct answer: the fuel pump is located inside the fuel tank, which sits beneath the rear seat area of the car. To access it, you must remove the rear seat cushion and open the access panel that is under the carpet on the right side of the vehicle. This guide explains the exact location, how to access the pump safely, what tools you need, common symptoms of failure, and what a replacement typically costs.

Understanding the Fuel Pump Setup in the 2005 Chrysler 300

The 2005 Chrysler 300 uses an in-tank electric fuel pump design, which is standard for most modern vehicles. The fuel tank is positioned beneath the rear passenger compartment. On most 2005 models, there is a single fuel pump module located inside the tank. However, some sources indicate that certain configurations, particularly those with V8 engines, may have a dual-pump setup inside the same assembly. Regardless of which engine you have, the fuel pump is not located in the engine bay or under the car along the frame rail.

Here is a quick breakdown of the fuel system characteristics for the 2005 Chrysler 300:

  1. Number of fuel pumps: Typically 1, located inside the fuel tank. Some sources note that models with HEMI V8 engines from 2005–2010 may feature a dual-pump module, but both pumps are housed within the same assembly in the tank.
  2. Fuel pump type: In-tank electric fuel pump.
  3. Fuel system type: Returnless fuel system (most models).
  4. Fuel pressure range: Approximately 40–60 PSI, depending on the engine.
  5. Engine compatibility: 2.7L V6, 3.5L V6, 5.7L HEMI V8, 6.1L V8 (SRT-8).

The in-tank design reduces noise, keeps the pump cooled by the fuel, and ensures consistent fuel delivery. The trade-off is that accessing the pump requires working inside the cabin through the rear seat area.

Exact Location of the Fuel Pump

The fuel pump module sits on top of the fuel tank. To reach it, you go through the cabin, not from underneath the car. The precise path to the pump is as follows:

  1. The fuel tank is located beneath the rear passenger seat area.
  2. On the right side (passenger side) under the rear seat, there is an access panel cut into the floor pan.
  3. The fuel pump module is visible once that round or rectangular panel is removed.

In most cases, you do not need to drop the fuel tank to replace the pump, which is good news for DIY owners. Dropping the tank is only necessary if there is no access panel or if you are replacing the entire tank assembly. The left side of the tank typically houses the fuel filter, fuel pressure regulator, and fuel level sender, according to some sources.

Tools and Materials You Will Need

Before you start, gather the following tools and materials. Having everything ready ahead of time makes the job smoother and safer.

Tools:

  • Socket set with extensions (10mm and 12mm sockets are commonly needed)
  • Flathead screwdriver
  • Trim removal tool or a flat pry tool
  • Needle-nose pliers
  • Fuel line disconnect tool (plastic or metal, sized for the fuel lines)
  • Brass punch or a dedicated lock ring removal tool
  • Hammer
  • Torque wrench (for reinstalling the locking ring)
  • Safety glasses and chemical-resistant gloves
  • Shop rags or absorbent pads
  • A small container or pan for residual fuel

Parts (if replacing the pump):

  • New fuel pump module or pump assembly (OEM or high-quality aftermarket)
  • New fuel pump gasket or seal
  • New locking ring if the old one is damaged

Safety items:

  • Fire extinguisher rated for fuel fires
  • A well-ventilated workspace
  • No open flames, sparks, or smoking anywhere near the work area

Safety First: Relieving Fuel System Pressure

Working on a fuel system is inherently dangerous because gasoline is highly flammable. You must relieve the fuel system pressure before opening any lines, and you must work in a well-ventilated area away from any ignition sources.

Here is how to properly depressurize the system:

  1. Locate the fuel pump fuse or relay. This is usually found in the rear power distribution center, which is inside the trunk under the spare tire access panel. For 2005–2010 models, the fuel pump fuse is typically number 16 or 38.
  2. Remove the fuse or relay. Once removed, the fuel pump will not operate.
  3. Start the engine. Let it run until it stalls out on its own. This burns off the remaining fuel pressure in the lines.
  4. Crank the engine for a few more seconds. After it stalls, turn the key again and crank for about 5 seconds. This relieves any residual pressure.
  5. Disconnect the negative battery cable. This prevents accidental sparks and also protects the electrical system while you work.

After completing these steps, the system should be safe to open. However, always assume there is still some residual fuel in the lines and have rags and a container ready to catch any spills.

Step-by-Step Instructions to Access the Fuel Pump

Once the fuel pressure is relieved and the battery is disconnected, you can begin accessing the pump. Follow these steps in order.

Step 1: Remove the Rear Seat Cushion

The rear seat bottom is held in place by release clips or tabs. To remove it:

  1. Locate the release tabs at the front edge of the seat cushion, near the floor.
  2. Pull the tabs or pull up firmly on the front edge of the cushion to release the clips.
  3. Once the front is released, lift the cushion up and pull it forward to free the retaining hooks at the back.
  4. Set the cushion aside in a safe place.

In some models, there may be bolts holding the seat in place. If so, remove those bolts first with a socket wrench before attempting to lift the cushion.

Step 2: Locate the Access Panel

With the seat cushion removed, look at the floor pan on the right or passenger side. You will see a metal or rubber access cover cut into the floor. This panel is what gives you access to the fuel pump module on top of the tank.

The panel may be covered by sound deadening material or carpet padding. Peel that back carefully to expose the full panel.

Step 3: Remove the Access Panel

The panel is typically held in place by small screws or clips. Remove these fasteners and lift the panel off. Set it aside with the screws so you do not lose them.

Step 4: Disconnect the Electrical Harness and Fuel Lines

With the panel removed, you will see the top of the fuel pump module. Before you can lift it out, you must disconnect everything attached to it.

  1. Disconnect the electrical connector. This is usually a multi-pin connector on the top of the module. Press the release tab and pull it straight off.
  2. Disconnect the fuel lines. There may be one or two fuel lines attached to the module, depending on your vehicle's configuration. Use the appropriate fuel line disconnect tool to release the quick-connect fittings. Be prepared for some fuel to spill out. Have rags and a container ready.

In some cases, the fuel lines may be secured with hose clamps rather than quick-connects. If so, loosen the clamps and slide the hoses off carefully.

Step 5: Remove the Locking Ring

The fuel pump module is held in place by a large locking ring or retaining ring. This ring threads onto the tank and locks the module in place.

  1. Use a brass punch and a hammer (or a dedicated lock ring tool) to tap the ring counterclockwise. Never use steel on steel where fuel fumes are present, to avoid sparks.
  2. Once the ring is loose, continue turning it by hand until it is completely free.
  3. Remove the ring and set it aside.

Step 6: Lift Out the Fuel Pump Module

Now you can lift the fuel pump module out of the tank.

  1. Grasp the top of the module firmly and lift it straight up.
  2. Tilt it slightly as you lift to allow the float arm to clear the opening without bending.
  3. Be careful, as the module will still contain some fuel. Let it drain into a container or place it in a shallow pan.

Once the module is out, you can inspect it for damage, check the strainer for debris, and determine whether you need to replace the entire assembly or just the pump itself.

Common Symptoms of a Failing Fuel Pump

Knowing the signs of a failing fuel pump can help you catch the problem early before you are left stranded. Here are the most common symptoms to watch for:

  1. Engine cranks but will not start. If the pump is completely dead, no fuel reaches the engine, and the car will not fire up.
  2. Difficulty starting. The engine may crank for a long time before finally starting, or it may require multiple attempts.
  3. Loss of power under load. The car may hesitate, sputter, or feel sluggish during acceleration, especially on the highway or going up hills.
  4. Stalling while driving. The engine may suddenly shut off and then restart after sitting for a few minutes, as the pump cools down.
  5. Whining noise from the fuel tank. A loud, high-pitched whine coming from the rear of the car is often a sign that the pump is struggling. This is especially noticeable when you first turn the key to the ON position, as the pump primes the system.
  6. Decreased fuel efficiency. If the pump is unable to maintain proper pressure, the engine may run rich or lean, causing a drop in MPG.
  7. Engine surging. The car may randomly surge forward while maintaining a steady throttle, indicating inconsistent fuel delivery.

If you notice any of these symptoms, test the fuel pressure first to confirm the pump is the issue before purchasing a replacement.

How to Test the Fuel Pump

Before you go through the effort of replacing the pump, it is wise to confirm that it is actually failing. Here is a simple test procedure:

  1. Turn the key to the ON position without starting the engine. You should hear a brief hum from the rear of the car as the pump primes the system. If there is no sound, the pump may not be getting power, or it may be dead.
  2. Check the fuel pump fuse and relay. If the fuse is blown or the relay is faulty, the pump will not run even if it is in good condition. Replace any blown fuses and try again.
  3. Check the input wires at the fuel pump connector. There are five wires in total at the connector, but only two are relevant to fuel pump operation. These are the thickest wires: dark blue/orange (pin 5, power feed) and black/orange (pin 4, ground).
    • The black/orange wire is the ground circuit, which grounds at G120 underneath the driver's seat. Ground should be present at all times.
    • The dark blue/orange wire should have power when the key is initially cycled on and while cranking. If it doesn't, check the fuel pump relay in the front power distribution center.
  4. Test fuel pressure. Connect a fuel pressure gauge to the Schrader valve on the fuel rail. With the key ON, pressure should rise to the specified range and hold. If pressure is low or drops quickly, the pump or the pressure regulator may be failing.

If the pump passes these tests, the problem may lie elsewhere, such as a clogged fuel filter or a faulty fuel pressure regulator.

Replacement Cost and Labor Estimates

The cost to replace a fuel pump in a 2005 Chrysler 300 varies depending on whether you do the work yourself or hire a professional, and whether you choose OEM or aftermarket parts.

Parts cost:

  • A replacement fuel pump module for the 2005 Chrysler 300 typically costs between $100 and $300 for the part alone.
  • The OEM part number varies by engine. For example, the part number is 5184294AA for the 2.7L and 3.5L engines, and 52029338AB for the 5.7L V8.
  • Aftermarket options are widely available and may cost less. However, be cautious with cheap, unbranded pumps, as quality can vary significantly.
  • A used OEM pump from a donor vehicle can cost between $50 and $150.

Labor cost:

  • If you take the car to a professional, labor costs can vary. One estimate lists labor costs between $89 and $112, with parts priced between $562 and $591. However, more recent estimates from Kelley Blue Book suggest a fair repair range of $1,082 to $1,278, with parts costing $541–$597 and labor costing the same.
  • If your car has the dual-pump HEMI setup, replacement costs can be higher. Some sources estimate the dual module can range from $600 to $1,000 including labor.
  • A shop will typically charge $120 to $250 for labor on a fuel pump replacement.

DIY savings:

  • If you do the job yourself, you only pay for parts, which can save you several hundred dollars. The job is moderately difficult and can be completed in about 1 to 1.5 hours with basic hand tools.

How Long Does a Fuel Pump Last?

The average lifespan of a fuel pump in a 2005 Chrysler 300 is between 100,000 and 150,000 miles, depending on usage and maintenance. Running the car frequently on a low fuel tank can shorten the pump's life, as the pump relies on fuel for cooling and lubrication. Keeping the fuel filter clean and using quality fuel can help extend the pump's lifespan.

KEMSO Fuel Pump: A Reliable Replacement Option

If you need to replace the fuel pump in your 2005 Chrysler 300, KEMSO is a brand worth considering. KEMSO is a US-based aftermarket fuel pump manufacturer known for producing high-quality, direct-fit replacement pumps.

KEMSO fuel pumps are designed as OEM replacements, meaning they match the fit and function of the original pump in your vehicle. They are compatible with gasoline and E85/ethanol fuel blends. Many KEMSO pumps are high-performance units that deliver over 20% more flow than the stock pump at the same pressure, which can be beneficial for daily drivers and enthusiasts alike.

Each KEMSO pump is individually tested for quality control. The company backs its products with a lifetime warranty, giving you peace of mind that your purchase is protected. If a KEMSO pump ever fails due to a manufacturing defect, you get a replacement at no cost.

KEMSO offers fuel pumps for a wide range of vehicles, including cars, motorcycles, ATVs, UTVs, and personal watercraft. Their pumps are priced affordably, with many models available at $79.98, which is often less than half the cost of dealer parts. For the 2005 Chrysler 300 and hundreds of other applications, KEMSO provides a cost-effective and reliable alternative to more expensive OEM parts.

To browse the full selection of KEMSO fuel pumps and find the right fit for your vehicle, visit their website at: https://www.kemsoracing.com/.

Final Thoughts

The 2005 Chrysler 300 fuel pump is located inside the fuel tank under the rear seat, accessible through a panel on the passenger side. Accessing it is a straightforward DIY job for anyone with moderate mechanical experience. By following the steps outlined above, you can diagnose, access, and replace the pump without having to drop the fuel tank.

Key takeaways to remember:

  1. The fuel pump is in the fuel tank, accessed through an access panel under the rear seat.
  2. Always relieve fuel system pressure and disconnect the battery before starting.
  3. Common signs of pump failure include hard starting, stalling, loss of power, and whining noise from the tank.
  4. Replacement costs range from about $100 to $300 for parts, plus up to $600 in labor if you hire a shop.
  5. A quality aftermarket option like KEMSO can save you money and comes with a lifetime warranty.

If you catch the problem early and replace the pump promptly, you can avoid being stranded and keep your 2005 Chrysler 300 running reliably for many more miles. For more information on KEMSO fuel pumps and to place an order, visit https://www.kemsoracing.com/.


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