2006 Acura TL Fuel Pump Relay Location: The Complete Owner's Guide

The fuel pump relay on a 2006 Acura TL is located inside the passenger compartment fuse box, which sits on the driver's lower left side, beneath the dashboard. It is labeled as fuse/relay position #19, rated at 15 amps, and marked as "IGI Fuel Pump" on the fuse box cover diagram. If your TL cranks but won't start, stalls while driving, or hesitates during acceleration, this relay should be the very first thing you check before spending money on a new fuel pump.

The 2006 Acura TL is equipped with a 3.2-liter V6 SOHC VTEC engine producing 258 horsepower. Its fuel system relies on an electric fuel pump that sits inside the fuel tank. That pump is controlled by a relay, which acts as a heavy-duty switch that sends power from the battery to the pump. When you turn the key to the "ON" position, the engine control unit sends a small electrical signal to the relay, which closes its internal contacts and allows high current to flow to the fuel pump. The pump then primes the system for a couple of seconds before the engine starts. Without this relay, the fuel pump never receives power, and the engine never receives fuel.

Understanding where the relay is, what it does, why it fails, and how to replace it can save you hundreds of dollars in unnecessary repairs. This guide covers all of that in plain language, step by step. It also includes practical advice on what to do when the relay isn't the problem, and what to buy when the fuel pump itself needs to be replaced.

Where Exactly Is the Fuel Pump Relay on a 2006 Acura TL?

The passenger compartment fuse box on the 2006 Acura TL is located on the driver's lower left side, under the dashboard. You access it by opening the driver's door and looking at the end of the dashboard, near the kick panel. There is a small cover that pulls straight off. Some models have a small release tab; others require a gentle tug.

Once the cover is removed, you will see a diagram printed on the back of the cover or on the fuse box itself. This diagram identifies every fuse and relay in the box. The fuel pump relay is assigned to position #19, and it is rated for 15 amps. The printed label for this position is "IGI Fuel Pump".

The relay itself looks like a small, black plastic cube with either four or five metal prongs sticking out of the bottom. It snaps into the fuse box socket. When the ignition is turned to "ON," you should be able to hear a faint click from the relay as it energizes.

Here is the full list of the important fuse positions in the passenger compartment fuse box for the 2006 Acura TL:

  1. Position #18 (15A): IGI ACG – Ignition system for the alternator and other engine controls.
  2. Position #19 (15A): IGI Fuel Pump – This is the fuel pump relay you are looking for.
  3. Position #23 (7.5A): IGP – Main power for the engine control module.
  4. Position #20 (7.5A): Washer – Windshield washer motor.
  5. Position #21 (7.5A): Meter – Instrument cluster and gauges.

Important: While the relay is the focus here, there is also a second fuse box under the hood on the driver's side near the air cleaner housing. The under-hood box contains larger fuses and relays for major systems like the radiator fan, headlights, and the VSA pump, but the fuel pump relay is not under the hood on this model. It is always in the interior fuse box.

Why the Fuel Pump Relay Fails and How to Diagnose It

The fuel pump relay on the 2006 Acura TL is not a heavy-duty component. It is an electro-mechanical switch rated for roughly 10 to 15 amps of continuous current. Over time, the internal coil wire can break, or the contact points can become pitted and corroded. This is especially true on cars that are now 20 years old.

The symptoms of a bad fuel pump relay are almost identical to the symptoms of a dead fuel pump. Those symptoms include:

  1. Engine won't start: The engine cranks over, but the fuel pump never primes, and the engine never catches. You may notice this happening intermittently at first, then more frequently until the car refuses to start entirely.

  2. Engine stalls while driving: The relay can fail internally while the car is running. When that happens, the pump loses power, the engine loses fuel pressure, and the car dies. This is dangerous, especially at highway speeds.

  3. Loss of power under load: If the relay makes intermittent contact, the pump may receive reduced voltage. The engine then sputters or hesitates when you accelerate, go uphill, or carry a heavy load.

  4. Loud whining noise from the rear of the car: A pump running on intermittent power may still spin, but it can labor and whine loudly. While this is often a pump problem, you should verify the relay before condemning the pump.

The fastest diagnostic step is to check the relay first. Here is how to do that without any special tools:

Step 1: Listen for the pump. Have a helper sit in the driver's seat. You stand near the rear of the car, close to the fuel tank. Ask the helper to turn the ignition key to the "ON" position without cranking the engine. You should hear a faint 2-second hum from the fuel tank. That is the pump priming. If you hear nothing, the pump is not getting power.

Step 2: Check the relay. If the pump is silent, pull the fuel pump relay out of position #19 in the interior fuse box. Inspect the prongs for corrosion, burning, or damage. Look at the relay body for any cracks or melted plastic.

Step 3: Test the relay coil resistance. Use a digital multimeter set to ohms. Place the probes on the two coil terminals (refer to the schematic printed on the relay body). A good relay typically reads between 50 and 120 ohms. If you read infinite resistance, the internal coil is broken and the relay must be replaced.

Step 4: Test the switch contact. With the relay removed and the multimeter on the continuity setting, check across the load terminals. In the resting state, you should not have continuity for a normally open relay. Then apply 12 volts from a battery across the coil terminals. You should hear a click, and the load terminals should now show continuity. If they do not, the relay is bad.

Step 5: Swap the relay. If you have another relay in the fuse box with the same amperage rating and pin configuration, you can swap them temporarily. Use a known-good relay from a less critical circuit, such as the horn or the rear defroster. If the fuel pump now works, you have confirmed the original relay is bad.

A note on recalls: Honda issued a recall for a faulty fuel pump relay made by a supplier called Mitsuba on a wide range of 2005-2006 models, including the Acura TL. The faulty relay's internal coil wire can break, causing the fuel pump to lose power. If your relay is labeled "MITSUBA," you should replace it with the updated "DENSO" part immediately, even if you are not experiencing symptoms. The relay is typically located in the under-dash fuse box.

How to Replace the Fuel Pump Relay on a 2006 Acura TL

Replacing the relay requires no mechanical skill. You need no tools beyond a pair of needle-nose pliers, and you can complete the job in under five minutes. Here is the process:

Step 1: Turn the ignition off and remove the key from the ignition.

Step 2: Open the driver's door and locate the interior fuse box on the driver's lower left side.

Step 3: Pull the cover off and set it aside. You may need to use a trim tool or a flathead screwdriver wrapped in tape to gently pry it free.

Step 4: Find position #19 on the fuse box diagram. It is labeled "IGI Fuel Pump" and rated for 15 amps.

Step 5: Grasp the relay firmly with your fingers or needle-nose pliers. Pull straight up. The relay will release with a moderate amount of resistance. Do not twist it.

Step 6: Compare the new relay to the old one. The new relay must have the same pin configuration and amperage rating. If the label on your old relay reads "MITSUBA," replace it with a "DENSO" unit or an equivalent aftermarket relay for the same application.

Step 7: Press the new relay firmly into the socket until it clicks into place. Ensure it sits flush with the fuse box.

Step 8: Reinstall the fuse box cover and close the driver's door.

Step 9: Test the system. Turn the ignition to "ON" and listen for the fuel pump hum near the rear of the car. If you hear it, the replacement was successful.

That is the entire job. The relay is inexpensive, typically costing between $10 and $25 at an auto parts store or dealership. Compare that to the cost of a fuel pump replacement, which can range from $38 to $196 for an aftermarket assembly, $400 to $550 for an OEM assembly, plus $150 to $300 in labor if you pay a shop to do the work. Checking the relay first is the single best way to avoid a needless repair bill.

What to Do When the Fuel Pump Relay Is Not the Problem

If you have tested the relay, confirmed it is good, and the fuel pump still does not run, there are several other possibilities to investigate in order of likelihood:

1. The main relay (PGM-FI relay). The main relay is a separate component on many Honda and Acura vehicles of this era. It controls the fuel injectors and also provides power to the fuel pump for a few seconds when you first turn the key. If the main relay fails, the engine may crank but not start, and the fuel pump may not prime. The main relay is a separate part and is a common failure point on 1995-2006 Acura TL models.

2. A blown fuse. The fuel pump circuit is protected by a fuse, typically in the under-hood fuse box. Check the fuse labeled "FI ECU (ECM/PCM)" (position #19, 40A) or the "IGI Main" fuse (position #23, 50A), as these feed the fuel system. Also check the fuses in the interior box that feed the ignition system. A blown fuse will cause the same symptoms as a dead relay.

3. The fuel pump itself. If the relay and fuses are good, the pump likely failed. On the 2006 Acura TL, the fuel pump is inside the fuel tank. You can access it through a panel in the trunk, behind the rear seats or under the spare tire cover. This avoids dropping the fuel tank, which is a significant convenience. The job is doable at home for someone with moderate mechanical skills, but you must relieve the fuel pressure, disconnect the battery, and work in a well-ventilated area because you are dealing with gasoline.

4. A wiring problem. Check the wiring harness that runs from the fuse box to the fuel pump, particularly where it passes through the body of the car. Corrosion or broken wires can interrupt power to the pump even when the relay is good.

Cost of Replacing the Fuel Pump Relay vs. the Fuel Pump

Understanding the cost difference between these two repairs reinforces why you should always test the relay first. Here is a simple breakdown:

  1. Fuel pump relay replacement: The part costs between $10 and $25, and labor is zero if you do it yourself. Total cost: under $25.

  2. Fuel pump assembly replacement: A new aftermarket fuel pump assembly for the 2006 Acura TL costs between $38 and $196. A new OEM fuel pump assembly costs between $400 and $550.

  3. Shop labor for fuel pump replacement: If you pay a professional, labor runs between $150 and $300. On the TL, the pump is accessible through a trunk panel, which keeps labor costs on the lower end of that range compared to vehicles that require dropping the fuel tank.

  4. Total cost of fuel pump replacement: Between $188 and $850 depending on parts and labor.

The takeaway: Spending 10 minutes to test the relay before buying a fuel pump can save you anywhere from $200 to $800.

Symptoms That Tell You What to Fix First

There is some overlap between relay symptoms, pump symptoms, and other fuel system problems. But there is a quick way to sort them out. Pay attention to what your car does in each of these three scenarios:

  1. If the engine cranks but doesn't start, and the fuel pump makes NO noise at all: This points to an electrical supply problem. Check the relay first, then the fuses, then the wiring.

  2. If the engine sputters, hesitates, or stalls, but the pump DOES make noise: The relay may be making intermittent contact, or the pump itself is weak and cannot maintain pressure under load. Check the relay by swapping it for a known-good unit. If the problem persists, the pump is likely failing.

  3. If the pump is loud and whines constantly: The pump is working too hard or is running dry. This is more likely a pump issue, but a failing relay can also cause voltage drops that make the pump labor. Test the relay first because it is cheaper.

A Note on Fuel Pump Assemblies: Replace the Whole Module

If you determine that the fuel pump itself is bad, do not be tempted to replace only the pump motor. The 2006 Acura TL's fuel pump is part of a module assembly that includes the pump, the fuel level sending unit, the fuel strainer, and sometimes the fuel pressure regulator. The plastic housing becomes brittle over time, and the integrated fuel filter sock is a critical wear item that should always be replaced with the pump. Most aftermarket fuel pumps for the TL come as a complete module assembly, and it is highly recommended to replace the entire assembly rather than just the pump motor. This ensures all related components are new and helps prevent future issues. The cost difference between a bare pump and a full module is modest, and the labor is identical.

Why Maintaining a Healthy Fuel System Matters

The fuel pump on your 2006 Acura TL is responsible for delivering fuel from the tank to the engine at a consistent pressure. A properly functioning pump is critical for engine performance, starting, and efficiency. If you ignore the early warning signs of a failing pump or relay, the consequences can be serious. The engine can stall at any time, including at highway speeds, which creates a significant risk of a crash. Do not drive a car you suspect has a fuel delivery problem. Address the relay first, and address the pump if needed, before the problem leaves you stranded or worse.

Where to Buy a Replacement Fuel Pump for Your 2006 Acura TL

If testing shows the relay is good and the fuel pump itself has failed, you need a replacement. The aftermarket offers a wide range of fuel pump assemblies for the 2006 Acura TL, with prices ranging from about $38 to $196 for non-OEM parts. While budget options exist, long-term durability matters. The fuel pump is a part you do not want to replace twice.

KEMSO Fuel Pumps are an excellent choice for your 2006 Acura TL and for a wide range of other vehicles, including motorcycles, ATVs, and cars. KEMSO fuel pumps are designed as high-performance, direct OEM replacements. This means they are engineered to match the original equipment specifications exactly, so they fit properly and perform reliably. Every KEMSO fuel pump is backed by a lifetime warranty, giving you confidence that your investment is protected. When you need a fuel pump that you can install and forget about, KEMSO delivers quality and peace of mind at a competitive price. You can browse their full lineup of fuel pumps at https://www.kemsoracing.com/. Whether you own an Acura TL, a BMW motorcycle, a Honda Civic, or a Kawasaki Jet Ski, KEMSO Racing has a fuel pump that fits your application and your budget.

Final Thoughts on Your 2006 Acura TL Fuel Pump Relay

The fuel pump relay location on a 2006 Acura TL is not a secret, and it is not hard to reach. Position #19 in the passenger compartment fuse box, on the driver's lower left side, holds the 15-amp "IGI Fuel Pump" relay. Check it first when your TL stalls, hesitates, or refuses to start. If the relay is bad, a $15 part and five minutes of work will solve the problem. If the relay is good, move down the list: check the main relay, check the fuses, and finally test the pump itself. When the pump is confirmed dead, replace the entire module assembly with a quality part. And if you are in the market for a new fuel pump, consider KEMSO for a high-performance, OEM replacement with lifetime warranty coverage, available at https://www.kemsoracing.com/.


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