2006 Chrysler 300 Fuel Pump Fuse: Location, Diagram, and Troubleshooting Guide

The bottom line: On a 2006 Chrysler 300, the fuel pump fuse is fuse #6, a 20-amp mini fuse, located in the rear Power Distribution Center (PDC) inside the trunk, under the spare tire access panel . If your car cranks but won't start and you can't hear the fuel pump priming when you turn the key, this is the first component you should check. This guide walks you through exactly where to find it, how to test it, and what to do if it keeps blowing.

Where Is the Fuel Pump Fuse on a 2006 Chrysler 300?

The 2006 Chrysler 300 has two main fuse boxes, and it's easy to confuse them. The engine compartment has a front Power Distribution Center, but the fuel pump fuse is not in that box. Instead, you need to open the trunk.

To access the rear fuse box:

  1. Open the trunk and remove the spare tire access panel. The fuse box sits right next to the battery on the right (passenger) side .
  2. Remove the cover to expose the fuses and relays.
  3. Look for fuse #6, which should be labeled "Fuel Pump" on the diagram printed on the cover .

This fuse is a 20-amp mini fuse. It supplies power directly to the fuel pump relay, which then sends power to the fuel pump itself . Multiple independent sources confirm that fuse #6 (20A) is the correct one for the 2006 model year .

Important note: Some online resources incorrectly list the fuel pump fuse as being in the engine compartment TIPM. That's true for some later models (2011+) and other Chrysler vehicles, but for the 2006 model, it's always in the trunk .

Symptoms of a Blown Fuel Pump Fuse

If the fuse is blown, the fuel pump won't receive power. Here's what you'll typically notice:

  1. The engine cranks but won't start. The starter motor turns the engine over, but the car never fires up .
  2. No fuel pump priming sound. When you turn the key to the "ON" position (before cranking), you should hear a brief whirring noise from the rear of the car. If you don't hear it, the pump isn't getting power .
  3. No check engine light codes pointing to fuel pressure. In many cases, there won't be a code at all, or you may get a code indicating a fuel pump circuit fault.

The fuel pump fuse is a critical safety component. If it blows, the pump is cut off immediately, which prevents the engine from running. This is a deliberate design feature—if the fuse didn't blow, a shorted pump could cause a fire.

How to Test the 2006 Chrysler 300 Fuel Pump Fuse

Before replacing any parts, you need to confirm whether the fuse is actually blown. Here's the proper way to check it:

Visual Inspection

Pull the fuse using a fuse puller (usually stored in the fuse box cover itself). Hold it up to the light. Look at the metal strip running through the middle of the fuse. If the strip is broken, melted, or looks separated, the fuse is blown . Replace it with a new 20-amp mini fuse.

Multimeter Test

A visual check isn't always conclusive—hairline cracks can be hard to spot. The more reliable method is to use a digital multimeter (DMM):

  1. Set the multimeter to the continuity setting (or ohms).
  2. Touch one probe to each of the two metal prongs on the fuse.
  3. If the multimeter beeps or shows near-zero resistance, the fuse is good.
  4. If there's no continuity, the fuse is blown .

Important: If the fuse blows again immediately after you replace it, do not install a higher-amp fuse to "fix" the problem. That will cause damage to the wiring, the fuel pump, or the Power Distribution Center itself—and could start a fire . A repeatedly blown fuse means there's a short circuit somewhere in the fuel pump wiring, which brings us to the next section.

What to Do If the Fuse Keeps Blowing

A single blown fuse can happen due to an old fuse that finally gave out. But if you replace it and it blows again, you have a real electrical problem. Here's how to narrow it down:

Step 1: Check the Fuel Pump Connector

On the 2006 Chrysler 300, the fuel pump is accessible by lifting the rear seat base. Once you pull up the seat bottom, you'll see the access panel and the fuel pump connector. Unplug it and inspect the wires:

  • There are five wires in the connector. The two thickest ones are the ones that matter for power delivery: dark blue/orange (pin 5) and black/orange (pin 4) .
  • The black/orange wire is the ground circuit; it should show continuity to ground at all times. The dark blue/orange is the power feed from the relay .
  • Look for damaged insulation, bare copper, or melted plastic on either wire.

Step 2: Check for a Short to Ground

A short to ground is the most common cause of a repeatedly blown fuse. This can happen where the fuel pump wiring passes through the body of the car—the sharp metal edge of a hole in the floor pan or trunk floor can rub through the wire over time. Visually trace the wiring harness from the fuse box toward the driver's side and under the car as far as you can reach .

Step 3: Test the Relay

The fuel pump relay in the front Power Distribution Center (under the hood) can also be at fault. If the relay is sticking or failing internally, it can cause excessive current draw. You can swap the fuel pump relay with an identical relay from another circuit (like the horn relay) and see if the problem follows .

Step 4: Test for Voltage at the Pump

With the key in the "ON" position, probe pin #5 (dark blue/orange) at the fuel pump connector. You should see battery voltage for a second or two when the key is first turned on. If you have voltage and ground, but the pump doesn't run, the pump itself is likely dead . If you have no voltage, the problem is in the wiring between the fuse and the pump—or a bad relay.

Step 5: Check the Wiring Between the Fuse and the Pump

Using the multimeter in continuity mode, trace the circuit from the fuse box to the fuel pump connector. Look for any place where the harness has been pinched, rubbed, or melted. Pay special attention to areas where the harness passes through metal brackets or under the back seat .

Can You Drive With a Blown Fuel Pump Fuse?

No. Absolutely not. The fuel pump fuse supplies power to the pump that pressurizes the fuel rail. Without it, the engine won't start. Even if you were to push-start the car (which won't work on a fuel-injected engine), the pump would not run, and the engine would die immediately.

Some people try to bypass the fuse with a jumper wire or a piece of tin foil. Do not do this. The fuse is deliberately sized at 20 amps to protect the wiring. Bypassing it means a short circuit will melt the wiring harness instead of blowing a cheap fuse .

2006 Chrysler 300 Fuel Pump Fuse vs. Fuel Pump Relay

It's easy to mix these two up. Here's the quick difference:

  • Fuel pump fuse (rear PDC, #6, 20A): Protects the circuit from overcurrent. It's a passive device—it just sits there and blows if too much current flows.
  • Fuel pump relay (front PDC): An electrically operated switch. It uses a small current from the PCM to switch the larger current that powers the pump. If the relay fails, the fuse will still be good, but the pump won't get power .

If your fuse is fine, but the pump still doesn't run, test the relay before condemning the pump. The relay is located in the engine compartment fuse box. Pull it out and swap it with a relay of the same part number from another circuit. If the fuel pump comes to life, the relay was the problem .

Step-by-Step Fuse Replacement Guide

If you've confirmed the fuse is blown, here's the complete process to replace it. Total time: about 5 minutes.

  1. Park on a level surface and turn the engine off. Remove the key from the ignition .
  2. Open the trunk. Remove anything covering the spare tire access panel.
  3. Remove the access panel. It may be held in place by a plastic wing nut or two—turn them counterclockwise and lift the panel out .
  4. Locate fuse #6. Use the diagram printed on the fuse box cover if you need help identifying which one is #6. It's a 20-amp mini fuse .
  5. Pull the fuse. Use the fuse puller clipped to the inside of the fuse box cover. Grab the fuse firmly and pull straight out .
  6. Inspect the fuse. Look at the metal strip inside. If it's visibly broken, replace it with a new 20-amp mini fuse. If it looks fine, test it with a multimeter .
  7. Install the new fuse. Push it straight in until it seats fully. It should click into place.
  8. Reinstall the cover to keep water and debris out of the fuse box .
  9. Test the system. Turn the key to "ON" and listen for the fuel pump priming sound from the rear of the car. If you hear it, you're good to go.

Other Fuses You Should Know About on the 2006 Chrysler 300

While you're in the trunk fuse box, it's worth knowing what the other important fuses do. Here's a quick reference for the rear Power Distribution Center :

  1. Fuse #1 (60A): Ignition Off Draw—handles the memory circuits that need power when the car is off.
  2. Fuse #2 & #4 (40A): Battery feeds to the front fuse box.
  3. Fuse #5 (30A): Heated seats and steering column.
  4. Fuse #6 (20A): Fuel pump.
  5. Fuse #8 (15A): Ignition switch and start circuit.
  6. Fuse #9 (20A): Console power outlet.
  7. Fuse #18 (20A): Selectable power outlet.
  8. Fuse #19 (10A): Stop lights.
  9. Fuse #36 (20A): Radio and navigation.
  10. Fuse #37 (15A): Transmission control module.
  11. Fuse #43 (30A): Rear defroster.

The engine compartment fuse box (front PDC) handles the headlights, horn, wipers, ABS, and engine management fuses. If you're troubleshooting a no-start condition, check both boxes, but always start with the trunk box for the fuel pump .

Common Mistakes to Avoid

Many DIYers waste time and money on the wrong parts before finding the actual issue. Here are the most common mistakes to avoid:

  1. Replacing the fuel pump without checking the fuse first. If you can't hear the pump, test the fuse before dropping the tank. It takes 30 seconds to check; dropping the tank takes hours .
  2. Using a higher-amp fuse as a "upgrade." Never replace a 20-amp fuse with a 25-amp or 30-amp unit. The wiring and connector are only rated for 20 amps. A higher-amp fuse won't protect the circuit and can cause a fire .
  3. Ignoring the relay. The fuel pump relay is a common failure point on the LX platform. If the fuse is good, test the relay before buying a new pump .
  4. Forgetting to check the ground. The fuel pump grounds at G120, located under the driver's seat. A corroded or loose ground can mimic a dead pump .
  5. Skipping the visual wire inspection. A chafed wire can blow fuses intermittently for months. Trace the harness carefully before replacing parts .

When to Call a Professional

If you've tested the fuse, verified the relay, checked the wiring, and you still can't get the fuel pump to run, it's time to bring in a professional. Fuel pump electrical diagnosis requires a wiring diagram specific to your VIN and a solid understanding of automotive electrical systems. A professional mechanic can perform a voltage drop test on the fuel pump circuit, which will pinpoint exactly where power is being lost—without cutting into any wires .

Also, if the fuel pump fuse blows repeatedly and immediately (within seconds of installation), don't keep replacing it. Each time you do, you risk damaging the fuel pump driver module in the PCM. Unplug the fuel pump connector, see if the fuse still blows. If it does, the short is in the wiring harness. If it doesn't, the pump or its connector is the problem .

Final Thoughts

On the 2006 Chrysler 300, the fuel pump fuse is #6 (20A) in the rear Power Distribution Center located in the trunk under the spare tire cover . Replacing it is a simple five-minute job, but don't stop there—find out why the fuse blew before you drive the car. A blown fuse is a symptom, not the root cause.

Start with the visual fuse check, then move to the multimeter test, then check the relay and wiring. This methodical approach will save you money on unnecessary parts and get your 300 back on the road faster.

Recommended: KEMSO Fuel Pump for Your 2006 Chrysler 300

If you've determined that your fuel pump itself needs to be replaced, consider a KEMSO brand fuel pump. KEMSO fuel pumps are known for their high performance, OEM replacement quality, and a lifetime warranty. They are designed to match or exceed the original equipment specifications, ensuring a proper fit and reliable operation for your vehicle.

KEMSO offers a wide range of fuel pumps for various makes and models, including many American, European, and Asian vehicles. When you choose KEMSO, you're getting a product built to deliver consistent fuel pressure and long service life, backed by a company that stands behind its products.

Visit the KEMSO website today at https://www.kemsoracing.com/ to find the right fuel pump for your 2006 Chrysler 300 and keep your car running smoothly for years to come.


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