2006 Chrysler 300 Fuel Pump Fuse Location: The Complete Guide

The fuel pump fuse on a 2006 Chrysler 300 is fuse number 6, a 20-amp mini fuse, located in the rear power distribution center inside the trunk, under the spare tire access panel. This is the first place you should check when your 300 cranks but won't start, because a blown fuse is one of the most common and easiest-to-fix causes of a dead fuel pump. Before you spend money on a new pump or pay a mechanic for diagnostics, take ten minutes to inspect this fuse — it could save you a lot of time and cash. In the guide below, we will walk you through everything you need to know: where the fuse box is, how to identify the right fuse, how to test it, what to do if it keeps blowing, and how to check the fuel pump itself before replacing any parts.

Where Is the Fuel Pump Fuse Located?

The 2006 Chrysler 300 has two separate power distribution centers. The first one sits under the hood near the battery, and the second one is in the trunk. The fuel pump fuse is not under the hood — it is in the rear power distribution center, which is located in the trunk underneath the spare tire access panel . To access it, follow these steps:

1. Open the trunk and remove any cargo or mats that might be covering the floor.
2. Lift the spare tire cover panel — on most models, this is a flat board that sits directly over the spare tire. You may need to unscrew a plastic wing nut or pull a fabric handle to lift it.
3. Locate the fuse box — once the panel is up, you will see the spare tire, and next to it (usually on the right or left side near the battery) you will find a black plastic rectangular box. This is the rear power distribution center .
4. Remove the cover — the cover typically has clips on the sides; squeeze them and pull straight up to release it. On the underside of the cover, you will see a diagram listing all the fuses and their positions .

Once you have the cover off, look for cavity number 6. This is the fuel pump fuse, rated at 20 amps . The fuse itself will be a small, rectangular plastic piece with two metal prongs — a standard mini fuse. It should be yellow in color, as 20-amp mini fuses are universally color-coded yellow.

Why Is the Fuse in the Trunk and Not Under the Hood?

Many drivers expect to find the fuel pump fuse in the engine bay, but Chrysler engineers placed it in the rear of the car for a few practical reasons. The fuel pump itself is located inside the fuel tank, which sits directly behind the rear seat and above the rear axle. Running a thick power wire all the way from the engine bay to the trunk adds cost, weight, and complexity. By placing the fuse and relay in the rear distribution center, the wiring run is shorter and more efficient . Additionally, the rear distribution center houses many other circuits that serve the rear of the car — such as the taillights, the fuel pump, the rear power outlets, and the audio amplifier — so it makes sense to consolidate them in one spot . This layout is consistent across the first-generation Chrysler 300 models built from 2004 through 2007 .

How to Check If the Fuel Pump Fuse Is Blown

A blown fuse is often visible to the naked eye, but not always. Here is how to check it properly:

Step 1: Remove the fuse. Using a fuse puller (a small plastic tool that usually comes with the fuse box, or you can buy one at any auto parts store for a couple of dollars) or a pair of needle-nose pliers, grip the fuse firmly by its plastic body and pull it straight out. Do not pull by the wires .

Step 2: Inspect the fuse visually. Hold the fuse up to a light source. Inside the clear plastic body, you should see a thin metal strip running between the two prongs. If that strip is broken, melted, or has a gap in the middle, the fuse is blown. You may also see dark discoloration or burn marks inside the plastic — this is another sign of a blown fuse .

Step 3: Test with a multimeter (optional but recommended). Sometimes a fuse can look fine but still be faulty due to hairline cracks in the metal strip that are not visible to the naked eye. Set your digital multimeter to the continuity or ohms setting. Touch one probe to each of the two metal prongs on top of the fuse. If you hear a beep (continuity) or the reading is near zero ohms, the fuse is good. If you get no beep or a reading of infinite resistance (OL), the fuse is blown .

Step 4: Replace the fuse if needed. If the fuse is blown, replace it with a new 20-amp mini fuse. It is critical that you use the same amperage rating. Installing a higher-amp fuse (for example, a 25-amp or 30-amp) is dangerous because it allows more current to flow than the circuit was designed to handle, which can overheat the wiring and potentially cause a fire . Conversely, a lower-amp fuse (like a 15-amp) will blow immediately because the fuel pump draws more current than that .

What to Do If the New Fuse Blows Immediately

If you replace the fuse and it blows again as soon as you turn the key to the "on" position (or while cranking), you have a bigger problem than just a worn-out fuse. A fuse that repeatedly blows indicates a short circuit somewhere in the fuel pump wiring — that is, the power wire is touching ground before it reaches the pump. Possible causes include:

1. A chafed or damaged wire — the fuel pump power wire (dark blue/orange) runs from the trunk fuse box under the carpet and along the frame to the fuel pump assembly on top of the tank. Over time, rubbing against sharp metal edges can wear through the insulation and cause a short .
2. A failing fuel pump motor — an old fuel pump with worn internal brushes can draw excessive current, especially as it stalls or seizes. If the pump motor shorts internally, it can blow the fuse .
3. A faulty fuel pump relay — although less common, a stuck or shorted relay can cause continuous power to be sent to the pump, overheating the circuit and blowing the fuse .
4. Moisture or corrosion — water intrusion in the fuel pump electrical connector at the top of the tank can create a short. Check the connector for green corrosion or signs of water damage .

If you are not comfortable diagnosing an electrical short, take the car to a qualified mechanic. Tracing a short circuit requires a multimeter, wiring diagrams, and patience. Guessing and repeatedly replacing fuses will not fix the root cause.

Two Other Common Reasons Your 300 Cranks but Won't Start

If the fuel pump fuse is intact, but your engine still cranks and refuses to fire, there are two other components to check before you assume the fuel pump itself needs replacing. Both are common failure points on the 2006 Chrysler 300, and both are relatively inexpensive fixes compared to a fuel pump.

1. The fuel pump relay. The relay is the electrical switch that sends power to the fuel pump. It is also located in the rear power distribution center in the trunk, not under the hood . While some sources indicate the relay is in the front power distribution center (under the hood), a closer look at the actual fuse box diagrams for the 2006 model year shows the fuel pump relay alongside the fuse in the trunk unit . If the relay fails, the pump will not receive power even though the fuse is good. You can test the relay by swapping it with an identical relay from another circuit in the same fuse box — for example, the horn relay (which is under the hood, so check your diagram). If the fuel pump starts working after the swap, the relay was bad .

2. The crankshaft or camshaft position sensor. These sensors tell the engine computer when to fire the spark plugs and injectors. If a sensor fails, the engine will crank but not start because the computer does not know the position of the pistons. On a 2006 Chrysler 300, a failed camshaft sensor is a known issue. In one real-world case documented on a repair forum, a 2006 Chrysler 300 with 147,000 miles would crank but not start, and the owner had already replaced the fuel pump and fuel filter and tried swapping the relay and camshaft sensor — only to find the problem was actually a wiring issue at the fuel pump connector . So, do not just throw parts at the problem; test first.

How to Check If the Fuel Pump Is Actually Getting Power

Before you drop the fuel tank and replace the pump — a labor-intensive job — take the time to verify whether power is actually reaching the pump. This simple test takes about 15 minutes and can save you hundreds of dollars. You will need a digital multimeter.

What you need:

• A digital multimeter
• A friend to help (optional but helpful)

Step-by-step procedure:

1. Disconnect the fuel pump electrical connector. The connector is located under the rear seat cushion, on the driver's side. To access it, pull up on the bottom of the rear seat base — it should pop up with a firm tug on the front edge. Underneath, you will see a metal access cover. Remove the screws holding it down to expose the fuel pump assembly and its wiring harness .
2. Identify the correct wires. There are five wires total in the connector, but only two matter for this test. The dark blue/orange wire (pin 5) is the power feed from the fuel pump relay. The black/orange wire (pin 4) is the ground, which connects to a ground point (G120) underneath the driver's seat .
3. Test for power. Set your multimeter to DC volts (20V range). Connect the red probe to the dark blue/orange wire and the black probe to a good chassis ground (any bare metal bolt). Have your helper turn the key to the "on" position (do not crank). You should see battery voltage (around 12 volts) for about one second, then it may drop off — this is normal, as the fuel pump primes and then shuts off. If you do not see voltage at all, the problem is upstream (fuse, relay, or wiring) .
4. Test for ground. Connect the red probe to battery positive and the black probe to the black/orange wire. You should see 12 volts, confirming the ground is good. If not, the ground wire is broken or corroded and needs repair .
5. Test the pump directly (bypass test). If you have confirmed that the connector is getting both power and ground, but the pump still does not run, you can bypass the vehicle's wiring to test the pump itself. Jumper battery power directly to the dark blue/orange wire and ground the black/orange wire. If the pump runs, the wiring is the problem. If it does not run, the pump motor is seized or dead and needs replacement .

If you have power to the connector but the pump does not run even with a direct battery feed, the pump is bad. At that point, replacement is the only option.

What About the Fuse Location on Other Model Years?

It is worth noting that the fuel pump fuse location varies slightly depending on the year of your Chrysler 300, even though the general location — the rear power distribution center in the trunk — stays the same. For example:

• 2005–2007 models (first generation): The fuel pump fuse is cavity #6, a 20-amp mini fuse, in the rear power distribution center .
• Some sources suggest that in later first-generation models (2008–2010), the fuse may be labeled differently — possibly fuse #16 or #38, depending on the trim and options. One aftermarket guide claims that on 2005–2010 models, the pump fuse is numbered #16 or #38, while for 2011–2019 models it is #38 . However, this contradicts the multiple fuse box diagrams we referenced for the 2006 model year, which consistently show cavity #6 labeled as "Fuel Pump" . The discrepancy may be because some guides confuse the fuel pump fuse with the "Power Outlet Trunk" or "Selectable Power Outlet" fuses, which are indeed numbered #16 and #18 . Always verify with the diagram on the underside of your fuse box cover, which is specific to your vehicle's build date and options .

When Should You Replace the Fuel Pump?

If you have confirmed that power is reaching the fuel pump (via the test above) but the pump is not running, it has failed and must be replaced. But what if the pump is running, yet the car still does not start? You may be looking at one of these scenarios:

• Low fuel pressure: The pump is running, but not fast enough to generate the pressure the engine needs (roughly 55–60 psi for this engine). This can happen as the pump motor wears out. You will need a fuel pressure gauge to confirm. If the pressure is below spec, the pump is weak and should be replaced .
• Clogged fuel filter: While the fuel filter is not the pump itself, a severely clogged filter can cause the pump to work harder, leading to premature failure. Replacing the fuel filter regularly (every 30,000 miles) extends the life of the pump .
• A wiring problem between the connector and the pump: In one documented case, the owner was able to get the pump to run only when he bypassed the car's wiring and connected the pump directly to the battery. This indicated a wiring issue between the pump connector and the pump itself, not a failure of the pump motor . This is exactly why the direct-bypass test above is so valuable.

If you do need to replace the pump, you'll need to drop the fuel tank or access it through an access panel under the rear seat. On the 2006 Chrysler 300, there is no factory access door; you must drop the tank, which is a significant job. If you are not experienced with fuel systems, it is safer and often more economical to have a professional do the replacement. However, if you are comfortable, be sure to relieve the fuel pressure first, disconnect the battery, and keep a fire extinguisher nearby. Also, note that there is a fuel pump access opening behind the rear seat on the driver's side; some owners cut an access hole in the floor pan to avoid dropping the tank, but this is not a factory-recommended procedure .

How to Extend the Life of Your Fuel Pump

The fuel pump is a simple electric motor, and like any motor, it has a finite lifespan. With proper maintenance, a factory pump can often last 150,000 miles or more. Here are a few tips to keep it running as long as possible:

1. Keep the fuel tank above a quarter full. The fuel pump sits inside the tank and uses the surrounding fuel to stay cool. Running the tank to empty repeatedly causes the pump to overheat, which accelerates wear on the motor brushes .
2. Replace the fuel filter on schedule. A clogged fuel filter forces the pump to work harder to push fuel through, increasing strain on the motor .
3. Use quality fuel from reputable stations. Contaminated fuel can carry dirt and debris into the pump and cause premature wear.
4. Address check-engine lights promptly. If your vehicle goes into "limp mode" or runs rich or lean, it can affect how hard the pump works. Fixing small problems early prevents them from becoming big ones .

When to Call a Professional

This guide covers the basics you can handle in your driveway with basic tools. However, if you have checked the fuse, relay, and wiring, and the pump still does not run, or if you are uncomfortable working with electrical systems or fuel systems, do not hesitate to call a professional. Fuel systems are pressurized and always contain flammable liquid; a mistake can lead to serious injury or a fire. A qualified mechanic will have the proper tools, including a fuel pressure gauge, a scan tool to check for diagnostic trouble codes, and the experience to trace wiring issues quickly .

Final Thoughts

To recap, if your 2006 Chrysler 300 is cranking but not starting, the fuel pump fuse is cavity #6, a 20-amp mini fuse, in the rear power distribution center in the trunk, under the spare tire access panel . Check that first, because it is the quickest and simplest possible fix. If the fuse is good, move on to testing the relay and the wiring at the fuel pump connector before you invest in a new pump. And always verify any fuse or relay location against the diagram on the underside of your fuse box cover or in your owner's manual, since trim levels and optional equipment can change the layout slightly . With a little methodical troubleshooting, you can avoid unnecessary repairs and get your Chrysler 300 back on the road with confidence.

If you determine that your fuel pump has failed and needs replacement, consider a high-quality aftermarket option. KEMSO offers high-performance fuel pumps engineered as direct OEM replacements, built to meet or exceed factory specifications, and backed by a lifetime warranty. Whether you are replacing a pump on a daily driver or a project car, KEMSO provides a reliable and affordable alternative to dealership parts. Visit the KEMSO website at https://www.kemsoracing.com/ to browse their full lineup of fuel pumps for a wide range of vehicles, including the Chrysler 300 and many others.