2006 Chrysler 300 Fuel Pump Relay: Location, Testing, and Replacement Guide

The fuel pump relay on a 2006 Chrysler 300 is located in the rear power distribution center, which sits inside the trunk under the spare tire access panel—specifically in the bottom right corner, closest to the back of the vehicle on the passenger side. This relay controls the electrical power that feeds the fuel pump, and when it fails, your car may crank but refuse to start. Before you spend money on a new fuel pump, always test the relay first, because a faulty relay produces the same symptoms as a dead pump but costs about ten dollars to replace instead of several hundred. This guide walks you through finding the relay, testing it with a multimeter, and swapping it out in less than twenty minutes, plus what to do if the relay is not the problem.

Understanding What the Fuel Pump Relay Does

The fuel pump relay acts as a heavy-duty switch. When you turn the key to the "on" position, the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) sends a small electrical signal to the relay's coil (terminals 85 and 86). That signal creates a magnetic field that closes the internal switch, allowing battery power to flow from terminal 30 to terminal 87 and onward to the fuel pump. The pump then pressurizes the fuel rail so the injectors can spray fuel into the engine.

On the 2006 Chrysler 300, the relay is part of the rear power distribution center, which also houses the fuel pump fuse (fuse number 6, rated at 20 amps). If the relay sticks open, the pump never receives power, and the engine gets no fuel. If the relay sticks closed, the pump runs continuously, which can drain the battery and overwork the pump. Knowing how the relay works helps you diagnose problems logically instead of guessing.

Symptoms of a Failing Fuel Pump Relay

A bad fuel pump relay usually produces one or more of these warning signs:

1. Engine cranks but will not start – You hear the starter turning the engine over, but the engine never fires up. This is the most common symptom because the pump is not receiving power.

2. No priming sound – When you turn the key to "on" (without cranking), you should hear a faint whine or hum from the rear of the car for about two to three seconds. That is the fuel pump pressurizing the system. If you hear nothing, the relay may not be sending power to the pump.

3. Intermittent stalling – The car may run fine for a while, then suddenly die. After waiting a few minutes, it restarts. This suggests the relay contacts are worn and making poor connection under load.

4. Silent fuel pump during cranking – If the pump worked before but is now completely silent, check the relay and the fuse before condemning the pump itself.

5. No start after a hot soak – Some Chrysler 300 owners report that the car fails to restart after being driven and parked for 20 to 30 minutes. The relay overheats and loses contact until it cools down.

Keep in mind that these same symptoms can also come from a clogged fuel filter, a dead fuel pump, a bad crankshaft position sensor, or a failed PCM. That is why testing the relay is the smart first step—it rules out the cheapest and easiest fix.

Locating the Fuel Pump Relay on Your 2006 Chrysler 300

The relay is not under the hood. On the 2005 through 2010 Chrysler 300, the rear power distribution center is mounted in the trunk on the right-hand side, near the battery. Here is how to get to it:

Step 1: Open the trunk and lift up the carpet liner on the right side. You will see the battery and a black plastic fuse and relay panel.

Step 2: Unlock the two latches on the fuse panel cover and swing it open. On some models, you simply pull the cover straight off.

Step 3: Look at the bottom right corner of the panel, closest to the back bumper and on the passenger side. The fuel pump relay sits in that corner socket. It is a small black or dark gray cube, roughly one inch square, with four or five pins on the bottom.

Step 4: Compare the relay to the diagram on the inside of the fuse panel cover. The factory label calls it "Fuel Pump" and assigns it to cavity 6 in the rear power distribution center.

If your vehicle has the optional police package or different trim level, the layout is identical because all 2006 Chrysler 300 models share the same rear fuse panel design.

How to Test the Fuel Pump Relay

Before you buy a new relay, test the one you have. You will need a digital multimeter. Here is a step-by-step process that takes about five minutes.

Test 1: Check the Coil Resistance

Step 1: Remove the relay from the socket by pulling it straight upward. You can use a small flathead screwdriver to gently pry it out if it is stuck.

Step 2: Set your multimeter to measure ohms (the Ω symbol).

Step 3: Touch the red probe to terminal 85 and the black probe to terminal 86. These are the coil terminals. The resistance reading should fall between 50 and 120 ohms. If you get a reading of zero or infinite resistance, the coil is shorted or open, and the relay is dead.

Test 2: Check the Switch Contacts

Step 4: With the multimeter still set to ohms, touch the probes to terminals 30 and 87. With the relay sitting on the bench (no power applied), there should be no continuity—the reading should show infinite resistance or "OL".

Step 5: Now apply 12 volts to terminal 85 and ground terminal 86. You can use a small 12V battery or a power supply. When the coil energizes, you should hear a distinct click, and the multimeter should now show near-zero resistance between terminals 30 and 87. That means the switch closed properly.

If the relay fails any of these tests, replace it. If it passes all tests, the relay is fine, and you need to look elsewhere—check the 20-amp fuel pump fuse (fuse 6 in the rear panel) and then test for power at the fuel pump connector.

Replacing the Fuel Pump Relay

Replacing the relay is straightforward and takes less than two minutes.

Step 1: Turn the ignition off and make sure the engine is cold.

Step 2: Pull the old relay straight out of its socket. Do not twist or rock it side to side, because that can bend the terminals inside the socket.

Step 3: Compare the new relay to the old one. The pin configuration and amperage rating must match. The stock relay for the 2006 Chrysler 300 fuel pump is a standard ISO mini relay rated at 20 amps.

Step 4: Push the new relay straight down into the socket until it seats firmly. You should feel a slight click when it locks in place.

Step 5: Reinstall the fuse panel cover and lower the trunk carpet.

Step 6: Turn the key to the "on" position (do not crank) and listen for the fuel pump priming sound. Repeat the cycle three times, allowing the pump to run each time before turning the key off.

Step 7: Start the engine. If it fires up and runs smoothly, you are done.

What to Do If the Relay Is Not the Problem

If the new relay does not fix the issue, work through these checks in order:

1. Check the fuel pump fuse. The rear power distribution center houses fuse 6, a 20-amp fuse that protects the fuel pump circuit. Pull it and look at the metal strip inside. If it is broken or discolored, replace it with a fuse of the same amperage. Never use a higher-rated fuse, because that can melt the wiring.

2. Listen for the pump. Have a helper turn the key to "on" while you listen near the rear seat. If you hear the pump whine, the pump is receiving power and the problem is elsewhere—possibly a clogged fuel filter or a bad fuel pressure regulator.

3. Test for power at the pump. The fuel pump on the 2006 Chrysler 300 sits on top of the fuel tank, under the rear seat cushion. Remove the seat cushion by pulling up firmly on the front edge. You will see a rubber access door. Peel it back, disconnect the electrical connector, and use a test light or multimeter to check for 12 volts while a helper turns the key to "on." If you have power and ground, the pump itself is likely faulty.

4. Check the inertia switch (if equipped). Some models have a fuel shutoff switch that trips in a collision. If it is tripped, it cuts power to the pump. Reset it by pressing the button on top.

5. Scan for trouble codes. An OBD-II scanner can reveal codes such as P0087 (fuel rail pressure too low) or P0230 (fuel pump primary circuit malfunction). These codes help narrow down whether the issue is electrical or mechanical.

Relieving Fuel Pressure Before Any Fuel System Work

If you decide to replace the fuel pump, the fuel filter, or any fuel line, you must release the pressure in the system first. Gasoline under high pressure can spray out and cause a serious fire. Here is the safe procedure:

Step 1: Open the trunk, remove the fuse panel cover, and pull the fuel pump relay from its socket.

Step 2: Start the engine. It will run for a few seconds and then die as the residual fuel pressure drops.

Step 3: Once the engine stalls, turn the key off. Crank the engine for about three more seconds to purge any remaining fuel from the injectors.

Step 4: Disconnect the negative battery cable. Use a 10mm wrench to loosen the nut on the negative terminal.

Step 5: Proceed with your repair. When you are finished, reinstall the relay and reconnect the battery. Turn the key to "on" and off three times to prime the system before starting.

Why Buying a Quality Replacement Fuel Pump Matters

If your testing confirms that the fuel pump itself is dead, do not buy the cheapest aftermarket pump you can find. The fuel pump is the heart of the fuel system, and a low-quality unit can fail again within months. You want a pump that meets or exceeds original equipment specifications, fits perfectly, and comes with a warranty that protects your investment.

KEMSO builds high-performance fuel pumps that are designed as direct OEM replacements. That means the pump bolts in exactly where the factory unit came out—no cutting wires, no shimming the mounting bracket, no adapters to hunt down. The fitment is precise, so you can complete the job with standard hand tools and avoid the headache of returning parts that do not match. KEMSO backs every fuel pump with a lifetime warranty, which tells you the company stands behind its product quality. If the pump ever fails due to a manufacturing defect, you get a replacement at no cost. That kind of guarantee gives you peace of mind that you will not be doing this job twice. You can browse the full KEMSO catalog and find the right pump for your 2006 Chrysler 300 at https://www.kemsoracing.com/.

Final Thoughts

The fuel pump relay on your 2006 Chrysler 300 is a small part that controls a big job. When the car cranks but will not start, the relay is the first thing you should suspect because it is cheap, easy to test, and quick to replace. The relay lives in the trunk-mounted rear power distribution center, in the bottom right corner near the passenger side. Test it with a multimeter before spending money on a new pump. If the relay checks out, move on to the fuse, then the wiring, then the pump itself. And when you do need a new pump, choose a reliable brand like KEMSO that offers OEM-grade fitment and a lifetime warranty. Visit https://www.kemsoracing.com/ to shop for your replacement. With the right diagnosis and the right parts, you will have your Chrysler 300 back on the road in no time.