2006 Dodge Charger Fuel Pump Fuse: Location, Diagram, and Troubleshooting Guide

The 2006 Dodge Charger fuel pump fuse is fuse #6, a 20A mini fuse located in the rear power distribution center (the fuse box in the trunk), not under the hood. This is the first thing you should check if your Charger cranks but won't start, stalls while driving, or shows no fuel pressure. The rear fuse box sits in the luggage compartment beneath the spare tire access panel. If that fuse is blown, the fuel pump gets no power, the engine won't receive fuel, and your car will not run. Replacing it is a five-minute job, but if it blows again right away, you likely have a bigger problem—like a failing fuel pump drawing excess current or a short in the wiring.

This guide walks you through everything you need to know about the 2006 Dodge Charger fuel pump fuse: where it is, how to test it, why it blows, and what to do when it keeps blowing. We also cover the fuel pump relay location, common electrical gremlins in this model year, and a smart recommendation for a replacement fuel pump if yours is on its last legs.

Where Is the Fuel Pump Fuse on a 2006 Dodge Charger?

The fuel pump fuse on a 2006 Dodge Charger is not in the engine bay fuse box—that's a common mistake. It sits in the rear power distribution center, which is in the trunk. To access it, open the trunk, lift the carpet and any covering, and remove the spare tire access panel. The fuse box is right there underneath.

Inside that box, look for fuse #6, rated at 20 amps. The fuse is a standard mini blade fuse. It feeds power directly to the fuel pump relay and then to the fuel pump itself.

The front power distribution center (under the hood, near the battery) also has fuses, but none of them are labeled for the fuel pump on the 2006 model. If someone tells you to check the under-hood box for the fuel pump fuse, they are mistaken. The rear box is the right place.

Quick Tip: Pull the rear seat cushion up. You'll see two access panels—the fuel pump module sits on the driver side, and the siphon pump on the passenger side. The fuse box is separate, in the trunk, but knowing where the pump lives helps when you're diagnosing the whole fuel system.

Fuel Pump Fuse Diagram and Ratings

Here's a quick reference of the fuses in the rear power distribution center that matter for the fuel system and related circuits:

Rear Power Distribution Center (Trunk) - Key Fuses

Fuse # Amp Rating Function
6 20A Fuel Pump
8 15A Ignition Switch / Occupant Classification Module
9 20A Console Power Outlet
14 10A A/C Heater Control / Cluster / Sentry Key
29 5A PCM / Sentry Key / Stop Lights
42 30A Front Blower Motor
44 20A Radio Amplifier

The front power distribution center (engine compartment) also has important fuses, but again, the fuel pump fuse is not there. For reference, the front box contains fuses for the PCM, injectors, ignition coils, ABS, wipers, and radiator fan.

Never replace a 20A fuse with a higher-rated one. If the diagram says 20A, use 20A. Putting a 25A or 30A fuse in that slot turns the wiring into the weak link, and you risk melting wires or starting a fire under your dash or in the trunk.

How to Test the Fuel Pump Fuse

Testing the fuse is simple. But first, a warning: don't count on just looking at it. A fuse can look fine through the plastic and still be broken inside due to a hairline crack.

Method 1: Test Light

  1. Turn the ignition off.
  2. Clip the test light lead to a good ground (any bare metal on the frame).
  3. Touch the probe to the two small metal dots on top of the fuse.
  4. If the light comes on for both dots, the fuse is good.
  5. If it only lights on one side, the fuse is blown.

Method 2: Multimeter (Continuity Mode)

  1. Pull the fuse out.
  2. Set the multimeter to continuity (the setting that beeps).
  3. Touch the leads to the two blades.
  4. If it beeps, the link inside is intact. If silent, replace the fuse.

The Smell Test

If the fuse is visibly charred, cloudy, or smells like burnt toast, you have a major short circuit. Replacing the fuse without finding the short will just pop the new one instantly. You'll need to trace the wiring to find where it's rubbing against the frame or where moisture has gotten in.

Why Does the Fuel Pump Fuse Keep Blowing?

A blown fuse is rarely a random event. Fuses blow for a reason, and ignoring that reason leads to repeat failures and possibly expensive damage. Here are the usual culprits:

1. Dying Fuel Pump

A fuel pump that's wearing out draws more amperage than it should. That extra load pops the fuse. This is the most common cause on a 2006 Charger, especially if the car has high miles. If the fuse blows and the car was driving fine one minute and dead the next, suspect the pump.

2. Short Circuit in the Wiring

A wire rubbed bare against the frame, a corroded connector, or water intrusion can create a direct short. The 2006 Charger is known for sunroof drain clogs, which leak water down the A-pillar and toward dashboard wiring. Green crusty corrosion on fuse terminals is a telltale sign of moisture.

3. Bad Fuel Pump Relay

The relay itself can fail, causing intermittent power delivery. While a failed relay usually doesn't blow the fuse, a stuck relay that keeps the pump running can overheat the circuit.

4. Faulty Front Control Module (FCM)

The FCM controls digital signals to fuses and relays. On the 2006 Charger, the FCM is a known weak point. If you have phantom issues (wipers turning on by themselves, random fuse failures), the FCM might be the culprit, not the fuse.

How to Diagnose the Difference

  1. Replace the blown fuse.
  2. Turn the key to the "ON" position (don't crank). You should hear the fuel pump hum for about a second.
  3. No hum? Check the relay and then the pump.
  4. Fuse blows immediately? You have a short or a pump that's seized.
  5. Fuse blows after a few minutes of driving? The pump is likely overheating and drawing too much current.

Grounding Issues

Bad grounds cause all sorts of electrical chaos in these cars. The main ground strap near the battery in the trunk and the grounds under the hood can rust or loosen. Clean them with a wire brush until shiny.

Fuel Pump Relay Location

The fuel pump relay on the 2006 Dodge Charger is in the engine compartment fuse box, near the battery. Open the hood, locate the fuse box, and check the lid for a diagram. The relay is typically labeled "Fuel Pump" or "ASD" (Auto Shutdown). The Mopar parts listing for the 2006 Charger confirms the relay is used for the fuel pump along with horns, wipers, and the A/C clutch.

If the fuse is good but the pump won't run, swap the relay with an identical one from another circuit (like the horn relay) to test. If the pump kicks in, the relay is bad.

Where Is the Fuel Pump Itself?

The fuel pump on the 2006 Charger sits inside the fuel tank. There's no external pump and no inertia switch. Dodge uses a computer-controlled relay system instead. To access the pump, lift the rear seat cushion. There are two access panels: the electric pump is on the driver side, and the siphon pump is on the passenger side. The fuel filter is part of the pump module inside the tank, so it's not separately serviceable.

Step-by-Step: Replacing the Fuel Pump Fuse

  1. Open the trunk and remove the spare tire access panel.
  2. Locate the rear power distribution center (fuse box).
  3. Find fuse #6 (20A, yellow).
  4. Pull it out with a fuse puller or needle-nose pliers.
  5. Inspect it—look for a broken metal link inside.
  6. Test with a test light or multimeter as described above.
  7. Replace with a 20A mini fuse from a reputable brand.
  8. Turn the key to "ON" and listen for the pump prime.

Safety First

Always turn the car off before pulling fuses. And if you're working near the airbag system (fuse #27, 10A for airbags in the rear box), disconnect the battery and wait ten minutes before touching anything.

What If the Fuse Is Fine But the Car Won't Start?

If the fuse is good and the pump primes, the problem is elsewhere. Here's a quick checklist:

  1. Check the relay – swap it with a known-good one.
  2. Check for voltage at the pump – use a multimeter on the pump connector
    under the rear seat.
  3. Check the fuel pump ground – a bad ground kills the pump.
  4. Check the FCM – a failing Front Control Module can cause strange electrical behavior.
  5. Check for fuel pressure – you should see around 55-60 psi at the rail.

A Note on the 2006 Model Year

The 2006 Charger was the first year of this generation, and it had some growing pains. The FCM and grounding issues are common failure points. Don't throw parts at the car—diagnose properly.

The "Smell Test" and When to Call a Pro

If you open the fuse box and see charred plastic or smell burnt toast, stop right there. That's a serious short circuit. Putting a fresh fuse in will just blow it again, and you risk electrical fire. You need to trace wires, find the rub point, or locate where water is getting in.

If you're not comfortable working with electrical systems, take it to a trusted mechanic. A proper diagnosis can save you hundreds of dollars in unnecessary parts.

The Smart Upgrade: KEMSO Fuel Pump with Lifetime Warranty

If your 2006 Dodge Charger's fuel pump fuse keeps blowing and you've confirmed the pump itself is failing, don't just buy another cheap pump. A dying pump draws too much current, which is why the fuse pops in the first place. Replacing it with a quality unit fixes the root cause.

KEMSO Racing offers high-performance, OEM replacement fuel pumps that are built to last. Here's why they're a smart choice:

  1. High-Performance Build – KEMSO pumps are designed to meet or exceed factory specifications. They deliver consistent fuel pressure, which keeps your engine running smoothly under all conditions.

  2. True OEM Replacement – No need to search for adapter kits or worry about poor fitment. KEMSO pumps are direct replacements for your vehicle, meaning a straightforward swap.

  3. Lifetime Warranty – Every KEMSO fuel pump comes with a lifetime warranty. If your pump ever fails due to a manufacturing defect, you get a replacement at no cost. That's a rare level of confidence in the automotive parts industry.

  4. Affordable Price – At $79.98 for most applications, KEMSO pumps often cost less than half of what a dealer charges. With free shipping and easy returns, it's a practical choice for DIY mechanics and professional shops alike.

  5. Wide Application Coverage – KEMSO makes pumps for hundreds of vehicles. From the Subaru Impreza (1998-2023) to the Honda CBR1000RR (2017-2026), they've got a proven track record of reliability.

If you're replacing the fuel pump on your 2006 Dodge Charger, check out KEMSO's full lineup at https://www.kemsoracing.com/ to find the exact fit for your car. Their website has a complete catalog, detailed fitment information, and customer reviews to help you order with confidence.

Final Thoughts

The 2006 Dodge Charger fuel pump fuse is fuse #6 in the trunk, rated at 20 amps. It's easy to check and cheap to replace. But if it blows repeatedly, don't just keep swapping fuses. Diagnose the root cause—whether that's a failing pump, a shorted wire, a bad ground, or a flaky FCM. And when it comes time to replace the pump, choose a quality part with a lifetime warranty from KEMSO Racing.

Keep your Charger on the road with a fuel system you can trust. Head over to https://www.kemsoracing.com/ and get the right pump for your ride today.


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