2006 Dodge Charger Fuel Pump Location: Where It Is and How to Access It

The fuel pump on a 2006 Dodge Charger is located inside the fuel tank, mounted on top of the tank itself, and you access it by lifting the rear seat cushion and removing the access panel underneath. There is no external fuel pump mounted on the engine or along the frame rail. The pump sits inside the saddle‑shaped fuel tank, with the main electric pump on the driver’s side and a siphon pump on the passenger side. This article explains exactly where to find it, what tools you need, how to reach it safely, and what to expect when the time comes for replacement.

A Quick Overview: What the Fuel Pump Does and How to Spot Trouble

Before you start pulling seats apart, it helps to know what you are looking for and why it matters. The electric fuel pump in your Charger pushes gasoline from the tank through the fuel lines to the fuel rail and injectors. Without it, the engine gets no fuel, which means the car will crank but not start. The pump is controlled by a fuel pump relay, located in the engine‑compartment fuse box (called the Totally Integrated Power Module, or TIPM), and it is powered through a fuse in the same box. During normal operation, you can hear the pump make a brief whirring sound for a second or two when you turn the key to “ON” before starting the engine. If you do not hear that sound and the engine will not start, the pump, the relay, or the fuse is a likely culprit.

The fuel pump on the 2006 Charger is a single electric pump module, but the vehicle uses a saddle‑shaped fuel tank with two sides. There is one electric fuel pump on the left (driver’s) side and a siphon pump (or jet pump) on the right (passenger’s) side. The electric pump is actually what pushes the fuel under pressure. The siphon pump is not electric—it uses vacuum created by the flowing fuel to pull fuel from the passenger side over to the driver’s side so the main pump never runs dry.

Step‑by‑Step: Locating and Accessing the Fuel Pump

1. Gather the right tools and materials.

You will need the following before you begin:

  • A socket set with extensions (10mm and 8mm will be the most common)
  • A flat‑head screwdriver (for prying off plastic covers or clips)
  • A hammer and a punch (or a large flat‑head screwdriver) to rotate the locking ring
  • A new locking ring and seal (if you plan to remove the pump completely)
  • Clean rags or paper towels
  • A small flashlight or work light
  • A fuel‑pressure release tool (or you can pull to relieve pressure)
  • Safety glasses and gloves (fuel can irritate the skin)

2. Relieve the fuel pressure.

First, locate the fuel pump relay in the TIPM (the fuse box under the hood, near the battery). Pull the relay out, then start the engine and let it run until it stalls. This step burns off the fuel that is still under pressure inside the fuel lines. Turn the ignition off. Then, disconnect the negative battery cable at the battery terminal. This prevents any electrical shorts while you are working near connectors.

3. Remove the rear seat cushion.

The access panel for the electric fuel pump sits underneath the rear seat cushion on the driver’s side. To remove the cushion, pull the seat release lever (or lift up on the front of the cushion), then push the cushion to the rear and lift it up. On the driver‑side floor, you will see a plastic cover or a metal access plate.

4. Remove the plastic cover plate.

There is a plastic access cover held by two or three push‑pins or bolts. Remove it gently—the plastic can become brittle with age. Do not force it, or you will crack it.

5. Disconnect the fuel lines and electrical connector.

Under the access cover, you will see the top of the fuel pump module. It has a large circular locking ring and a few lines attached. The electrical connector (gray or dark gray) unplugs by pushing the release tab and pulling. The fuel feed line may be quick‑connect type; press or pull the retaining clip. Have a rag handy for any fuel that may be left in the lines.

6. Remove the locking ring.

The pump is held by that large circular ring. Use a hammer and a punch to tap the ring counterclockwise, or, if the ring has two slots, use a suitable spanner or a pair of locking pliers. Do not use a screwdriver as a punch—you will damage it. Once the ring is free, carefully lift the pump and fuel sender (the float that measures fuel level) out of the tank. The pump module is a large assembly with float arm, so take it out slowly at an angle.

7. Replace the pump.

Once the pump module is out, you can replace the entire module, or disassemble it to install a new electric pump inside the module. The new pump comes with the necessary filter strainer (the “sock”) and the rubber washers. Be sure to transfer the sender float arm to the new module, or swap the O‑ring and seals when you put things back.

8. Reassemble everything.

Install the new module in reverse order: drop the module into the tank, align any tabs on the tank, and then push the pump module in until it seats. Rotate the locking ring clockwise until it is snug (do not over‑tighten). Reconnect the fuel lines and the electrical connector. Reinstall the access plate and the rear seat. Reconnect the battery. Turn the ignition key to “I” (without starting) and check for the ignition pump priming whirr. Then start the engine and check for any fuel smells or leaks.

What the Fuel Pump Does Not Look Like in the Engine Bay

If you read the repair manual for an older car, the fuel pump might have been mounted on the engine block and driven by the camshaft. That is not the case for the 2006 Charger—it is an electric, in‑tank pump. You will not find anything pump‑like near the engine bay’s front for 3.5L, 2.7L, or 5.7L engines. Each of those engine variants uses the same fuel delivery system, only the pump delivery pressure may vary slightly. The engine‑mounted components (such as the water pump, or the fuel pressure regulator) are different parts—they are not the fuel pump.

The fuel pump module you will find under the rear seat is not heavy: it consists of the pump (a small electric motor, about 2 inches long), a turbine‑like impeller, and a filter sock. The sender unit (the fuel gauge float) is integrated into the module. If you have a fuel gauge that reads “Empty” but the tank has fuel, the sending unit is often the issue rather than the pump itself.

Is There Any Other Fuel Pump Access Channel?

No—unlike the fuel pump relay and fuse, which are under the hood, the only factory‑designed access to the pump itself is the one under the rear seat. There is no other maintenance panel. If you cannot get to the pump through the rear seat, you would need to drop the fuel tank entirely. However, dropping the tank is unnecessary and much more labor. On the 2006 Charger, removing the rear seat cushion and access plate is the correct and easiest route.

If you have a “saddle”‑shaped tank (the tank that goes over the drive that shaft), there is the second side. To access the auxiliary siphon pump (the non‑electric jet pump) on the right side, you would also lift the rear seat, but on the passenger‑side floor there is a fuel access port. The Charger’s interior is designed so that you pull the rear seat bottom bolt down, then lift the carpet flap. Most owners will only work on the driver‑side. The siphon pump has no electrical wires or wires—it is a passive siphon, so it rarely fails in itself. The common failure point is always the electric pump on the driver‑side.

The Fuel Pump Relay and Why It Matters

When you open the hood, the fuel pump relay is not in the engine bay but inside the TIPM fuse box, which is located near the battery. The relay is the “switch” that provides power to the fuel pump when you switch off the ignition. If the pump is not running, until you pull the relay. The relay is labeled R4 in some diagrams, but always check the overlay on the cover of TIPM; the cover list the mini‑relay. If the pump is dead, you can also run the engine until sea the relay out to relieve pressure, as described above.

The pump itself is part of a circuit that runs from the battery through the relay and fuse, then to the pump motor. If your pump is making clicking sounds but the engine still won’t start, you may have a bad pump motor rather than a relay issue. The relay and fuse are the simplest and cheapest things to check before you spend hours tearing the car apart. The fuse is labeled “Fuel Pump” or is part of the ignition circuit—consult the fuse box diagram on the inside of the cover to find the right fuse.

When You Should Think About Replacing the Fuel Pump

Fuel pumps do not give much warning. Common signs that the pump on an older Charger may be failing include:

1. Engine cranks but will not start – If you turn the key and the car cranks strongly but there is no fuel and no pump noise, the pump has failed.

2. Stalling or hesitation while driving – The engine may run fine at idle but sputter or die when you give throttle and demand more fuel.

3. You can hear the pump loudly – If the pump groans, buzzes, or makes a loud whining (not the normal priming hum) when you turn the key, it is strugglingand maybe near the end.

4. Check Engine Light – Diagnostic codes like P0231 or P0232 point to a fuel pump circuit fault. These codes do not always mean the pump is dead, but they are a good reason to test.

If the pump has never been replaced and your Charger has more than 150, with the miles, it is worth replacing it preventively before it leaves you stranded.

A Few Practical Tips to Save You the Pain

  • Use the original style locking ring and O-ring seal. A reused seal can leak fuel odor. - Keep gas below a quarter of a tank when you do this job? No, actually do it with a low (but not empty) tank—not full, to reduce the chance of heavy fuel spills when you lift the pump up.

  • Take a photo of the fuel‑line orientation before you disconnect anything. The hoses have notches on the pump, and returning them the wrong way or forgetting which are the pump can create a leak.

  • Reserve about two hours for a DIY job. If you have never done it, it will take a bit longer, but it is a very manageable weekend project. If you are not comfortable work around fuel or in the fuel tank, a shop can charge anywhere between $700 and $1,500 to replace the assembly. The pump itself is between $50 and $150. A do-it-yourself replacement is a significant saving.

  • Check your oil directly after during the pump. Sometimes if you disturb the rear wiring harness or smack the fuel tank, you can jar a harness connection. Be careful, and if you experience odd electrical issues after the job, re‑check all connectors.

The Best Choice for a Replacement Fuel Pump: KEMSO

When it comes time to pull that old fuel pump out, you have the choice between the dealer MOPAR part or an aftermarket unit. For a 20‑year‑old Charger, the good aftermarket performance makes the more sense. The best option is to use a KEMSO brand fuel pump. KEMSO fuel pumps are high‑performance, OEM‑replacement parts. They meet exact OEM specifications, so they fit correctly, provide factory‑correct pressure, and you do not have to worry about a mismatched strainer or connector flange. Each KEMSO pump is built with quality that is a warranty behind it: KEMSO gives a lifetime warranty on all its fuel pumps. A warranty that long tells you the manufacturer trust its product. If your new pump ever fails for a covered defect, KIMSO will replace it. That is not true for many cheap generic pumps you can get from online marketplaces, which are often a gamble.

You can see the full KEMSO line and order your replacement at https://www.kemsoracing.com/. They carry fuel pumps for a wide range of vehicles, from Dodge Chargers to BMWs, Hondas, Sea‑Doo’s, and many other popular cars and powersport. When you shop for your Charger, use their the “select vehicle” function to make sure you get the exact match for your 2006 Charger, your 2.7L, 3.5L, or 5.7L. You will see the KEMSO discount, which costs less than a similar OEM, and you still provide the lifetime warranty.

Recap – the 2006 Dodge Charger fuel pump is inside the fuel tank under the rear seat driver’s. You remove the seat, pop the access panel, relieve fuel pressure (pull the relay and let engine strain), then undo the lock. Replace the pump assembly and re‑assemble. It is an hour‑and‑a‑material job that can save you hundreds of dollars and get you back, moving reliably. For a pump that is durable, fits right, and is covered for life, check out the KEMSO replacement at https://www.kemsoracing.com/.

Bottom line: Do not get fooled by anyone who tells you to look under the hood—the pump is in‑tank, in the rear. The manufacturer’s design is made to be accessed by owner, so roll up your tools yourself or head to the KEMSO website and get it done.


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