2006 Polaris Sportsman 500 EFI Fuel Pump Replacement: The Complete Owner's Guide

If you own a 2006 Polaris Sportsman 500 EFI and the engine cranks but won't start, sputters under load, or dies suddenly on the trail, the fuel pump is almost certainly the culprit. The 2006 Sportsman 500 EFI uses an electric in-tank fuel pump that is a known wear item, and replacement is a job most DIY owners can handle in a weekend with basic hand tools. The fuel pump on your 2006 EFI model is located inside the fuel tank, so you'll need to remove the tank and the pump hanger assembly to access it . Complete aftermarket replacement assemblies are widely available for $60 to $370, a fraction of the $500-plus you'd pay for the Polaris factory tank-and-pump unit . This guide walks you through diagnosis, part selection, step-by-step replacement, and common mistakes to avoid — so you can get back on the trail with confidence.

Signs Your Fuel Pump Is Failing

Before you tear anything apart, make sure the fuel pump is actually the problem. The symptoms below are the most common indicators of a failing in-tank fuel pump on the 2006 Sportsman 500 EFI :

1. Hard starting or no-start condition. The engine cranks over fine but won't fire, or takes many revolutions before catching. This happens when the pump can't build enough pressure to atomize fuel at the injector.

2. Sputtering or surging at steady throttle. The engine runs rough, stumbles, or hesitates especially when climbing hills or hauling a load, because the pump can't maintain consistent fuel delivery under increased demand .

3. Cutting out under load. The engine may die completely when you twist the throttle hard. This is a classic sign of fuel starvation, often caused by a worn pump motor or a clogged strainer .

4. Whining or buzzing noise from the fuel tank. A healthy electric pump makes a quiet hum for a few seconds when you turn the key on. If you hear a loud whine, a rattling sound, or no sound at all, the pump motor bearings or internal components are likely worn out .

5. Poor idle quality. The engine may idle roughly or stall at stop, because the fuel pressure regulator inside the pump assembly isn't holding steady pressure .

Important note: Some 2006 Sportsman 500 models are carbureted, not EFI. The carbureted models use a vacuum-operated mechanical pump mounted on the engine, not an electric pump in the tank. If your machine doesn't have an "EFI" label on it, or if it has a carburetor visible, this electric-pump guide doesn't apply — you have the simpler mechanical pump instead .

What Kind of Fuel Pump Does Your 2006 Sportsman 500 EFI Need?

The 2006 Sportsman 500 EFI uses a 12-volt electric pump mounted on a hanger assembly that drops into the top of the fuel tank . The complete assembly includes the pump motor, a fuel strainer, a fuel pressure regulator, a fuel level sending unit, and a tank seal . Polaris only sells the entire fuel tank and pump as one unit, which is expensive — but several aftermarket manufacturers make direct-replacement assemblies .

Before ordering a replacement, you need to verify two critical fitment details:

Bolt pattern. The 2006 Sportsman 500 EFI uses a 6-bolt pattern on the pump retaining plate. Some earlier or later models use a 5-bolt pattern. You must count the bolts on your old pump before ordering — a 6-bolt pump will not fit a 5-bolt tank .

OEM part number. The factory part number for the 2006-2007 Sportsman 500 EFI pump assembly is 22520437 (also superseded to 2520502, 2520539, and aftermarket number 47-1041) . Cross-reference your old pump's part number against any replacement you're considering.

Here are the main replacement options:

1. Complete aftermarket assembly (recommended). Includes everything — pump, strainer, regulator, level sender, tank seal, and retaining nut. These drop in with no modification. Expect to pay $60 to $370 depending on brand and quality . The KEMSO 13803 kit is a popular complete option for the 2006-2010 Sportsman 500 .

2. Pump-only kit. You keep your original hanger, bracket, and strainer, and replace just the pump motor. This is cheaper, around $30 to $80, but you must carefully transfer the old components and confirm the new pump's flow rating matches the EFI system's requirement of approximately 100-110 liters per hour at 3.0 bar . A pump with too-low flow will starve the engine; too-high flow can overwhelm the regulator.

3. Polaris OEM factory assembly. The most expensive route, because you buy the entire tank-and-pump unit. It bolts in exactly as the factory part, but costs hundreds more than aftermarket options with no performance advantage .

Tools and Materials You'll Need

Gather these before you start so you don't have to stop mid-job:

Tools:

  • Socket set and ratchet (metric and standard)
  • Flathead screwdriver
  • Pliers (needle-nose for hose clamps)
  • Torx bits (some body panels use Torx fasteners)
  • Small pick or hook for releasing quick-disconnect fittings
  • Drain pan (large enough to catch several quarts)
  • Clean rags
  • Safety glasses and nitrile gloves

Materials:

  • Replacement fuel pump assembly (complete kit recommended)
  • New fuel line clamps (if not included with the pump kit)
  • Fuel-safe sealant (only if your kit doesn't include a new tank seal)
  • A few paper towels for final cleanup

Step-by-Step Replacement: 2006 Polaris Sportsman 500 EFI

This procedure assumes you're replacing the complete pump assembly with a direct-fit aftermarket unit. Work in a well-ventilated area, away from any open flames or ignition sources, and keep a fire extinguisher nearby.

Step 1: Disconnect the Battery

Always start with the negative terminal first. Locate the battery under the seat, loosen the nut on the negative (black) cable with a wrench, and pull the cable off the post. Tuck it away from metal surfaces so it can't accidentally reconnect. This prevents any electrical shorts or sparks while you're working around the fuel system .

Step 2: Relieve Fuel System Pressure

The EFI system holds pressure in the fuel lines even when the engine is off. Locate the Schrader valve on the fuel rail or near the pump assembly, and depress it with a small tool like a tire gauge or a screwdriver tip. You'll hear a hiss as pressure releases. If you skip this step, fuel will spray when you disconnect the lines, which is messy and dangerous .

Step 3: Drain the Fuel Tank

Siphon or drain as much fuel as possible through the filler neck. This reduces weight and minimizes spills when you remove the tank. Use a hand siphon pump or a small transfer pump, and collect the fuel in a certified gas can. Do not dump fuel on the ground — it's both environmentally harmful and a fire hazard .

Step 4: Remove the Seat and Body Panels

The seat comes off first. On the Sportsman 500, look for the latch mechanism near the front or rear of the seat, pull it, and lift the seat straight up . Next, remove any plastic body panels or the front storage box that block access to the fuel tank. Use your Torx bits or sockets, and set the fasteners aside in a labeled container so you don't lose them . This step varies slightly by model year, so consult your owner's manual if you get stuck.

Step 5: Disconnect Fuel Lines and Electrical Connectors

There are two fuel lines — a supply line and a return line — plus a 3-pin electrical connector for the pump and fuel level sender . The quick-disconnect fittings typically release by squeezing the white plastic tabs together and pulling the line off . Have your drain pan positioned underneath to catch residual fuel. Before you disconnect anything, note the routing and orientation of each line and wire, or take photos with your phone — this will save you headaches during reinstallation .

Step 6: Remove the Fuel Tank from the ATV

The fuel tank is held in place by straps or mounting bolts. Unbolt and remove the tank carefully, and set it on a clean, level workbench. You'll have a much easier time working on the pump with the tank out of the machine .

Step 7: Remove the Old Pump Assembly

With the tank on the bench, you'll see the pump hanger at the top of the tank. The retaining ring or bolts hold it in place — remove them with your socket and ratchet . Lift the entire pump hanger assembly straight up out of the tank. Be prepared for residual fuel in the pump and let it drain into your pan. Note the orientation of the pump inside the tank, and pay attention to whether the float arm on the fuel level sender needs to be positioned a certain way to avoid hitting the inside of the tank .

Step 8: Install the New Pump Assembly

If you bought a complete assembly, installation is straightforward:

  1. Confirm the new pump matches the old one in bolt pattern and dimensions .
  2. Install the new tank seal (gasket) included with your kit .
  3. Lower the new pump hanger into the tank, making sure the float arm swings freely and the pump sits flat.
  4. Secure the retaining ring or bolts and tighten evenly to the torque specification in your service manual .
  5. Reinstall the fuel tank on the ATV and reconnect the fuel lines and electrical connector. Double-check that all fittings are fully seated and locked .

If you bought a pump-only kit, you'll need to transfer the bracket, strainer, and other components from your old pump to the new one. Pay close attention to the routing of the internal fuel hose and ensure the strainer hangs at the correct depth so it reaches the bottom of the tank .

Step 9: Prime the System and Test for Leaks

Before you reinstall the body panels, reconnect the battery (positive first this time). Turn the ignition key to the "on" position without cranking the engine. You should hear the pump prime — a quiet hum that runs for a few seconds and then stops . Check all fuel line connections for drips or leaks. Start the engine and let it idle for a few minutes, then rev it through the midrange and check for leaks again. Take the ATV for a short test ride to confirm the pump delivers consistent fuel under load .

Common Mistakes to Avoid

These errors can turn a simple pump replacement into a recurring nightmare. Learn from other owners who've been there:

1. Skipping the fuel strainer replacement. The strainer catches debris that would otherwise damage the new pump. If you reuse a clogged or old strainer, it restricts fuel flow and can burn out your brand-new pump. Quality aftermarket kits include a new strainer — use it .

2. Forgetting to clean the fuel tank. If your old pump failed because of contaminated fuel, the tank likely contains rust, dirt, and debris that will destroy the new pump. Drain the tank completely and rinse it with clean fuel, or consider replacing the tank if it's heavily corroded .

3. Buying the wrong bolt pattern. The 2006 Sportsman 500 EFI uses a 6-bolt pattern. If you order a 5-bolt pump, it simply won't fit. Count the bolts on your old pump before ordering .

4. Not replacing the fuel pressure regulator. On some Sportsman 500 models, the fuel pressure regulator is a separate component that can fail independently. If you replace the pump and still have symptoms, the regulator may be the issue .

5. Using a pump with insufficient flow rating. The EFI system needs roughly 100-110 liters per hour at 3.0 bar. A pump with a lower rating won't keep up under load, and a pump with a much higher rating can overwork the regulator. Check the specifications on the replacement pump before buying .

6. Rushing the fuel line disconnection. The quick-disconnect fittings are plastic and prone to cracking if you force them. Use the proper technique — squeeze the tabs evenly and pull gently — to avoid breaking a fitting that's part of an expensive tank assembly .

Why the KEMSO Fuel Pump Is the Smart Choice for Your Sportsman 500 EFI

When it's time for a replacement, KEMSO stands out as the top pick for quality and value. KEMSO fuel pumps are engineered as high-performance OEM replacement units — designed to match or exceed the specifications of the original factory pump. Their pumps deliver over 20 percent more flow at 43 psi compared to stock, which means your engine gets consistent fuel delivery whether you're cruising flat trails or climbing steep hills . The KEMSO 13803 pump, built specifically for the Polaris Sportsman 500 2006-2010, provides 200 liters per hour at 43 psi .

The KEMSO 13803 comes as a complete kit with everything you need: a gradient-density fuel strainer, tank seal, Viton grommets, wiring connectors, hose clamps, and zip ties — no hunting for missing pieces . Every pump is individually tested before shipping, with flow testing results provided, so you know exactly what you're getting. And KEMSO backs every fuel pump with a lifetime warranty — if the pump ever fails due to a defect in workmanship or materials, KEMSO will replace it .

KEMSO pumps are also compatible with standard gasoline and E85/ethanol fuel blends, which is a critical feature if you ride in areas where ethanol-blended fuel is the norm . You can see their full lineup of Polaris fuel pumps and order yours at https://www.kemsoracing.com/.

Final Thoughts

Replacing the fuel pump on your 2006 Polaris Sportsman 500 EFI is a well-documented, doable job for the average owner. Take your time, verify your part number and bolt pattern, drain the tank safely, and work methodically through each step. The cost savings over a dealer-installed pump are significant — often several hundred dollars — and the satisfaction of fixing your own machine is worth the effort. If you hit a snag, consult your service manual or a qualified mechanic. And when it's time to buy, a quality aftermarket assembly like KEMSO gives you factory-equivalent performance, a perfect fit, and the peace of mind that comes with a lifetime warranty.

For more details on the KEMSO pump lineup for Polaris models, visit https://www.kemsoracing.com/ .


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