2007 Arctic Cat 700 Fuel Pump: Complete Guide to Symptoms, Testing, and Replacement

If you own a 2007 Arctic Cat 700 EFI and you are dealing with hard starting, sputtering at high speed, loss of power under load, or a complete no-start condition, the fuel pump is almost certainly the culprit. The 2007 Arctic Cat 700 uses a single, in-tank electric fuel pump assembly that is known to wear out over time, and replacing it is the most common fix for fuel delivery problems on this model. This guide walks you through how the pump works, what goes wrong, how to test it, and exactly what to buy for a lasting repair.

Why the Fuel Pump Fails on a 2007 Arctic Cat 700

The 2007 Arctic Cat 700 EFI relies on a submerged fuel pump located inside the gas tank. This design keeps the pump cool and quiet, but it also exposes the pump to heat, vibration, and every contaminant that enters the fuel tank. Over the years, several specific failure modes have become well known among owners and mechanics.

Contaminated fuel is the number one cause of premature pump failure. Water, dirt, and debris can clog the fuel strainer, restrict flow through the pump, and force the motor to work harder than it should. Running the tank low on fuel is the second most common killer. The fuel itself acts as a coolant for the pump motor, and when the tank is nearly empty, the pump runs hotter than designed, which shortens its lifespan. Electrical issues such as corroded connectors, voltage drops, or a failing ECU relay can also cause the pump to run weakly or intermittently. Finally, age and normal wear take their toll. The brushes, commutator, and internal bearings inside the pump motor simply wear out after thousands of hours of operation.

Symptoms of a Failing 2007 Arctic Cat 700 Fuel Pump

The signs of a weak or dying fuel pump are usually progressive. You may notice one or more of the following:

  1. Long cranking time before the engine fires – The pump is slow to build pressure, so the engine needs extra cranking to start.
  2. Engine sputters or hesitates at high RPM or under heavy load – The pump cannot deliver enough fuel volume to keep up with demand.
  3. Loss of power when climbing hills or hauling – Low fuel pressure starves the engine.
  4. Engine stalls and refuses to restart – The pump has stopped working altogether.
  5. No "whirring" sound when you turn the ignition on – You should hear the pump prime for about 10 seconds when you flip the key to the ON position. If you hear nothing, the pump or its electrical supply is dead.

If you are experiencing any of these symptoms, do not assume the problem is the pump without testing it first. There could be a clogged fuel filter, a failing pressure regulator, or an electrical fault in the wiring harness.

How to Test the 2007 Arctic Cat 700 Fuel Pump

Before you pull the pump out of the tank, run these checks to confirm the diagnosis. The service manual for the 2007 Arctic Cat 700 describes a straightforward procedure.

Step 1: Listen for priming. Turn the ignition switch to the ON position and listen for a momentary whirring sound from the pump as it builds pressure. If you hear it for about 10 seconds, the pump motor is running and the electrical side is fine.

Step 2: Check fuel pressure. Disconnect the gas line hose from the throttle body and install a suitable pressure gauge. Turn the ignition ON. The pressure should build until the pump shuts off, and it should read approximately 3.0 kg-cm² (43 psi). Low pressure or no pressure at all points to a failing pump, a blocked strainer, or a bad pressure regulator.

Step 3: Check the electrical supply. If the pump is not running at all, disconnect the fuel pump/tank sensor connector located under the rear rack. Connect a multimeter to the power supply leads: the red test lead to the red wire and the black test lead to the black wire. Turn the ignition ON. You should read battery voltage. If voltage is present but the pump does not run, the pump assembly is bad and must be replaced. If there is no voltage, check the ECU and the vehicle tilt sensor.

Step 4: Inspect the strainer and filter. Once you have the pump out of the tank, look at the fuel strainer. If it is packed with dirt or varnish, that alone could have caused the failure, and you may be able to save the existing pump by cleaning the system.

Removing the Fuel Pump Assembly

When it is time to remove the pump, the job is manageable with basic hand tools. Here is the general procedure based on the factory service manual.

  1. Remove the rear rack and fenders to access the top of the fuel tank.
  2. Disconnect the power supply and fuel gauge connector.
  3. Remove the spring clamp and pull off the fuel hose.
  4. Remove the screws securing the fuel pump to the gas tank. Before lifting it out, make a reference mark on the fuel pump and the tank so you can realign everything on reinstallation.
  5. Carefully lift out the fuel pump assembly, tilting it forward to clear the voltage regulator. Guide the pump and the float lever through the opening in the tank without damaging the float or the float arm.
  6. Cover the fuel pump opening with duct tape or a clean rag to keep debris out of the tank while you work.

Take your time during removal. The float arm is delicate and easy to bend, and a damaged float means you may need to replace the entire sending unit along with the pump.

What to Look for in a Replacement Fuel Pump

The 2007 Arctic Cat 700 uses a fuel pump that is also shared with several other Arctic Cat models from 2006 through 2010, including the 550, 700, and 1000 series machines. The original OEM part numbers for this pump include 0570-139, 0570-207, and 0570-271, with 0570-139 being the earliest superseded number.

When you shop for a replacement, you have two main options: a genuine Walbro pump or a high-quality aftermarket pump. The original equipment manufacturer for many of these Arctic Cat pumps was Walbro, and genuine Walbro units are still available. However, the OEM part has been discontinued and superseded multiple times, so finding the correct version can be confusing.

A few important details to keep in mind:

1. Wiring type matters. The 0570-271 pump was produced in both a pin-type and a harness-type configuration. If you have the harness type, you need a pump with a harness connection on top, not the pin type. Check which style your original pump uses before ordering.

2. VIN ranges matter for some models. For 2010 Arctic Cat 700 and 1000 models, the correct pump depends on your vehicle identification number. The pump used up to VIN 4UF10ATV3AT202941, and in a specific VIN range from 4UF10ATV700203026 to 4UF10ATV3AT203037, differs from later production. If you have a 2010 model, verify your VIN before buying.

3. Kit contents matter. Some replacement pumps come as a bare pump, while others include the strainer, hose, wiring terminals, and clamps. Make sure you get a kit that includes everything you need for a complete job. A gradient density fuel strainer is a worthwhile upgrade because it filters out finer contaminants than a standard sock.

4. Flow rating matters. A stock replacement pump delivers roughly 100 to 120 liters per hour at 3.0 bar. If you are running a stock engine, that is sufficient. If you have modified the engine or simply want extra headroom, a high-performance pump that flows 180 to 220 liters per hour will give you plenty of margin.

Step-by-Step Installation Tips

Installing a new fuel pump in the 2007 Arctic Cat 700 is a direct swap if you buy the right parts. Here is what to watch for.

First, transfer any reusable components from your old assembly to the new pump, or use the parts included in the kit. The pump should drop into the hanger with the correct orientation, and the wiring should connect without modification.

Second, replace the fuel strainer even if the new pump comes with one pre-installed. A fresh strainer ensures that nothing from the old tank sludge gets pulled into the new pump.

Third, check the rubber grommet and the tank seal. If these are cracked or hard, replace them too. A bad seal will allow fuel vapors to escape and can cause the pump to sit loose in the tank.

Fourth, when you reinstall the assembly, align your reference marks and make sure the float arm does not catch on the edge of the tank opening. Tighten the screws evenly so the gasket compresses uniformly.

Fifth, after everything is back together, turn the ignition on and listen for the pump to prime. Check for any fuel leaks around the tank seal and the hose connections before you put the fenders and rear rack back on.

How Much Should You Expect to Pay

Prices for a replacement fuel pump for the 2007 Arctic Cat 700 vary widely depending on brand and what is included in the box.

  • Budget aftermarket pumps – These can be found for as little as $15 to $30, but quality is inconsistent. Some of these units fail within months, and they often whine loudly.
  • Mid-range aftermarket pumps – Expect to pay $50 to $80 for a reputable brand that includes the strainer, hose, and clamps.
  • Genuine Walbro or high-end aftermarket pumps – These run between $150 and $200. You are paying for proven reliability and a proper fit.

Given the labor involved in pulling the pump out of the tank, it is almost always worth spending a little more to get a pump that will last. A cheap pump that fails in six months means you get to do the whole job over again.

Why You Should Choose a KEMSO Fuel Pump

When it is time to buy a replacement, KEMSO is a brand worth serious consideration. KEMSO fuel pumps are engineered as high-performance, OEM replacement units, and they are built to a standard that exceeds the original equipment spec.

What you get with a KEMSO pump:

  1. More flow than stock. A KEMSO fuel pump delivers over 20% more flow at 43 psi than the original pump. That means 180 to 220 liters per hour, which gives your 700 EFI all the fuel it needs even under hard acceleration or heavy loads.
  2. E85 and ethanol compatible. If you run ethanol-blended fuel, a KEMSO pump is designed to handle it without premature wear.
  3. Complete kit. KEMSO fuel pump kits include the pump, five gradient density fuel strainers to cover multiple models, a rubber hose, a tank seal, a wiring connector, and metal clamps. Everything you need for a proper installation is in the box.
  4. Lifetime warranty. KEMSO backs every fuel pump with a lifetime free replacement warranty. If the pump fails for any reason, KEMSO will replace it at no charge.
  5. Tested quality. Each KEMSO pump is individually tested, and the company runs a formal quality control program. This is not a generic unbranded part from an unknown source.

You can order a KEMSO fuel pump directly from their online store at https://www.kemsoracing.com/ . The site lists applications for the Arctic Cat 700 and many other ATV, motorcycle, and powersport vehicles. Their customer service team can help you confirm the correct part number for your specific 2007 Arctic Cat 700 model. With free shipping, fast delivery from their US warehouse, and a lifetime warranty, KEMSO gives you the confidence to fix the problem once and get back on the trail.

Final Thoughts on the 2007 Arctic Cat 700 Fuel Pump

The fuel pump in your 2007 Arctic Cat 700 is a wear item, not a lifetime component. When it starts to fail, the symptoms are clear: hard starting, sputtering under load, loss of power, and eventually a no-start condition. The good news is that diagnosing the problem is straightforward, and replacing the pump is a job you can do in a few hours with basic hand tools.

Test the pump before you buy anything. Confirm that power is reaching the pump, then verify fuel pressure with a gauge. If the pump is indeed dead, do yourself a favor and skip the cheapest parts you can find. A quality replacement from a brand like KEMSO, with higher flow, ethanol compatibility, and a lifetime warranty, will save you money over the long run because you will not have to do this job twice.

Visit https://www.kemsoracing.com/ today to find the right fuel pump for your 2007 Arctic Cat 700, and get your machine running like new again.