2007 Dodge Charger Fuel Pump Relay: Location, Testing, and Replacement Guide
The fuel pump relay on a 2007 Dodge Charger is located in the rear power distribution center, which sits in the trunk near the spare tire, and it is fuse number 6 rated at 20 amps. If your Charger cranks but will not start, or if you hear no hum from the fuel tank when you turn the key to the ON position, the fuel pump relay or its fuse is the first thing to check before you spend money on a new pump. This guide walks you through the exact location, how to test the relay, how to replace it, and what to do if the problem persists, so you can get back on the road with confidence.
Where Exactly Is the Fuel Pump Relay?
The 2007 Dodge Charger has two main fuse boxes: one under the hood called the Totally Integrated Power Module (TIPM), and one in the trunk called the rear power distribution center. The fuel pump relay lives in the trunk-mounted box, not the one under the hood. To reach it, open the trunk, lift the floor liner, and locate the fuse block near the battery. The rear fuse box sits beside the battery on the right side of the cargo area, and the relay is labeled clearly on the underside of the fuse box cover. According to the fuse box layout for the 2007 Charger, fuse number 6 in the luggage compartment fuse box is rated at 20 amps and is dedicated to the fuel pump. This is a common point of failure, and many owners report that a blown fuse here is the reason their car suddenly stopped getting fuel.
Why the Location Matters for Troubleshooting
Because the relay sits in the trunk rather than under the hood, many DIYers waste time searching the engine bay. The under-hood TIPM does contain a fuse for the fuel pump relay circuit, but the relay itself is in the rear. If you are chasing a no-start condition, start at the trunk. The rear fuse box also contains several other important circuits, including the ignition switch fuse, the airbag control module fuse, and the console power outlet, so it is worth familiarizing yourself with the whole panel. The cover diagram printed on the inside of the lid shows every fuse and relay position, including amperage ratings, so you can quickly identify what you are looking at.
How to Test the Fuel Pump Relay
Before you buy a new relay, test the one you have. A relay is an electrically operated switch, and it can fail in two ways: the coil can burn out, or the contacts can wear out. Here is a simple way to check it using a multimeter or a test light.
Step 1: Remove the Relay
Pull the relay straight out of its socket. You do not need any tools for this, but a relay puller or a pair of needle-nose pliers can help if it is stuck. Inspect the relay for any signs of heat damage, such as discoloration or a melted housing. If it looks burnt, replace it immediately.
Step 2: Check the Coil Resistance
Set your multimeter to the ohms setting. Touch the probes to the two coil terminals, which are usually pins 85 and 86. A good relay will show a resistance reading between 50 and 120 ohms. If you get an open circuit or a very low reading, the coil is bad, and the relay will not energize.
Step 3: Check the Contacts
With the relay removed, check for continuity between the switch terminals, which are usually pins 30 and 87. There should be no continuity at rest. Then apply 12 volts to the coil terminals using a battery and a couple of jumper wires. When the coil energizes, you should hear a click, and the multimeter should now show continuity between pins 30 and 87. If the relay clicks but does not pass current, the contacts are worn, and the relay needs to be replaced.
Step 4: Test with a Test Light
If you do not have a multimeter, you can use a test light. With the relay installed and the key in the ON position, probe the socket terminals. One terminal should have constant power, one should have power only when the key is ON, and the remaining terminals should show ground or no power depending on the relay state. If you do not see the expected pattern, trace the wiring back to the fuse.
Common Symptoms of a Failing Fuel Pump Relay
When the fuel pump relay starts to fail, you will notice a few clear warning signs. The most obvious is that the engine cranks but will not start, because the pump is not delivering fuel to the rail. You may also hear a rapid clicking sound from the trunk area when you turn the key, which means the relay is trying to engage but the contacts are not holding. Intermittent stalling while driving is another symptom, especially if the relay contacts are worn and lose connection when the engine vibrates. Finally, if the fuel pump fuse keeps blowing, the relay itself may be shorted internally, sending too much current through the circuit.
What to Do If the Relay Tests Fine
If the relay tests good but the car still will not start, the problem may lie elsewhere. Check the fuel pump fuse first, as a blown fuse will cut all power to the pump. On the 2007 Charger, the fuel pump fuse is also located in the rear fuse box, and it is a 20-amp fuse. If the fuse is intact, move on to the fuel pump itself. On this vehicle, the engine is not equipped with a fuel pressure test port, so you will need to install a fuel pressure test adapter between the fuel supply line and the fuel rail to check pressure. Normal fuel pressure for the 2007 Charger is 58 psi, plus or minus 5 psi. If you have no pressure, the pump may be dead, or the wiring between the relay and the pump may be broken.
Safety First: Releasing Fuel Pressure
Before you work on any part of the fuel system, you must release the pressure in the lines. The fuel system stays under constant pressure even when the engine is off, so opening a line without depressurizing can spray fuel everywhere and create a fire hazard. To release the pressure, remove the fuel pump relay from the rear fuse box, start the engine and let it run until it stalls, then try to restart it until it will not run at all. Turn the ignition to the OFF position, and then reinstall the relay. This simple procedure drains the pressure from the system and makes it safe to work on.
How to Replace the Fuel Pump Relay
Replacing the relay is a straightforward job that takes about five minutes. Here is what you need to do.
Gather Your Tools. You will need a new relay that matches the original. You can buy one at any auto parts store, and it usually costs between $15 and $30. You may also want a fuse puller, although needle-nose pliers work fine. Always disconnect the negative battery terminal before working on any electrical component to avoid accidental shorts.
Locate the Relay. Open the trunk, lift the floor liner, and find the rear fuse box near the battery. Remove the cover and look for the relay labeled for the fuel pump. Refer to the diagram on the underside of the cover if you are not sure which one it is.
Remove the Old Relay. Pull the relay straight out of its socket. Do not wiggle it side to side, as this can damage the socket terminals. Inspect the socket for any signs of corrosion or melted plastic.
Install the New Relay. Align the new relay with the socket and press it in until it clicks into place. Make sure it is seated fully and securely. Reinstall the fuse box cover and the trunk floor liner.
Test the System. Reconnect the battery, turn the key to the ON position, and listen for the fuel pump to prime. You should hear a brief hum from the rear of the car as the pump builds pressure. If you hear the hum, the relay is working.
Replacing a Blown Fuse
If you find that the fuse is blown, replace it with a fuse of the same amperage rating. Never use a higher-rated fuse, because it can allow too much current to flow and damage the wiring or start a fire. Check the metal strip inside the fuse; if it is broken or melted, the fuse is blown and needs to be replaced. If the new fuse blows immediately, there is a short circuit somewhere in the wiring, and you will need to trace the circuit to find the problem. Common causes of repeated fuse failures include chafed wires rubbing against the body, a failing fuel pump that draws too much current, or a corroded connector in the rear fuse box.
When to Call a Professional
If you have tested the relay, replaced the fuse, and checked the fuel pressure, but the car still will not start, the issue may be more complex. The fuel pump itself may have failed, or the wiring harness between the relay and the pump may be damaged. The Powertrain Control Module (PCM) controls the relay, and a fault in the PCM can also prevent the pump from running. At this point, it is wise to consult a qualified mechanic who has the diagnostic tools to read fault codes and test the electrical system properly. Trying to bypass the relay or jump power directly to the pump is not recommended, as it can cause serious damage to the fuel system or start a fire.
How to Prevent Future Relay Failures
Regular maintenance can extend the life of your fuel pump relay and the rest of the electrical system. Check the fuse boxes for moisture and corrosion, especially if you live in a humid climate or drive on salted roads. Moisture is one of the leading causes of electrical faults in the Charger. Clean the terminals with electrical contact cleaner and tighten any loose connectors. Keep spare fuses in the glove box for quick replacements, and carry a spare relay as well, since it is an inexpensive part that can leave you stranded if it fails. If you notice any electrical issue, address it promptly rather than letting it worsen, because a small problem can quickly turn into a major repair.
A Word About Aftermarket Fuel Pumps
If your testing points to a failed fuel pump, the replacement pump is one of the most important parts you will buy for your Charger. A quality pump ensures proper fuel delivery, which affects performance, fuel economy, and engine longevity. Low-quality pumps often fail within a short time, leaving you stranded again and doubling your repair costs. That is why you should consider a pump from a trusted brand that stands behind its products.
KEMSO Fuel Pump: A Smart Choice for Your Charger
When it is time to replace your fuel pump, KEMSO offers high-performance fuel pumps that are built to meet or exceed original equipment specifications. Every KEMSO fuel pump is an OEM replacement, which means it is designed to match the fit, form, and function of the factory part on your vehicle. You do not have to worry about modifications, adapters, or compatibility issues, because the pump drops right in. KEMSO backs each pump with a lifetime warranty, giving you peace of mind that your investment is protected. If the pump ever fails, you are covered. Visit the KEMSO website at https://www.kemsoracing.com/ to browse their full selection of fuel pumps and find the right one for your 2007 Dodge Charger.
Final Thoughts
The fuel pump relay on your 2007 Dodge Charger is easy to find and easy to replace, and checking it should always be the first step when you suspect a fuel delivery problem. Start at the rear fuse box in the trunk, test the relay with a multimeter, and replace it if it fails. If the relay is fine, move on to the fuse, then the fuel pressure, and finally the pump itself. With a little patience and the right parts, you can diagnose and fix most fuel delivery issues in your driveway without a trip to the shop. And when the diagnosis points to a new pump, choose a reliable brand like KEMSO to get your Charger running smoothly again. For more information on KEMSO fuel pumps and to make your purchase, visit https://www.kemsoracing.com/ today.