2007 Saturn Aura Fuel Pump Relay Location: A Complete DIY Guide

The bottom line up front: On a 2007 Saturn Aura, the fuel pump relay is located in the rear compartment fuse block, which sits inside the trunk on the driver's side behind the trunk panel. The relay is labeled as R11 (Fuel Pump Relay), and it works together with the F28 Fuel Pump fuse (15A) in the same fuse block. If your Aura cranks but won't start, this relay is one of the first things you should check.

The 2007 Saturn Aura was produced by General Motors as a midsize family sedan, available with either a 2.4L four-cylinder engine or a 3.5L/3.6L V6 engine. The fuel delivery system relies on the fuel pump relay to switch power to the fuel pump when you turn the ignition on. When the relay fails or its circuit develops problems, the engine will crank but never fire up. This guide walks you through exactly where the relay lives, how to test it, how to replace it, and what to do if the problem runs deeper than just the relay itself.

Where Exactly Is the Fuel Pump Relay?

The fuel pump relay for the 2007 Saturn Aura is not under the hood. It sits in the luggage compartment fuse block, which is mounted in the trunk area on the driver's side of the vehicle. To reach it, open the trunk and look at the left side panel. You will see a fabric or plastic trim cover. Pull that cover away to expose the fuse block. The relay is labeled R11 on the fuse block cover diagram, and the corresponding fuse for the fuel pump is F28 with a 15-amp rating.

Some owners mistakenly look under the hood first because most fuse boxes live there. On this car, the underhood fuse block handles engine components like the ECM, cooling fans, and headlights, but the fuel pump relay is strictly a rear-compartment item. This layout is consistent across the 2006 through 2010 model years of the Saturn Aura.

To summarize the location in three steps:

1. Open the trunk.
2. Look at the left side (driver's side) of the cargo area.
3. Pull back the trim panel to expose the rear fuse block, then find relay R11 and fuse F28.

What Does the Fuel Pump Relay Do?

Before you go swapping parts, it helps to understand what this relay actually does. The fuel pump relay is an electrically operated switch. When you turn the ignition key to the "ON" position, the engine control module (ECM) energizes the relay, which then sends battery voltage to the fuel pump inside the fuel tank. The fuel pump pressurizes the fuel rail so the injectors can spray fuel into the engine.

The ECM does not keep the relay energized forever. If it does not detect ignition reference pulses (meaning the engine is not cranking or running), it shuts the relay off within about two seconds. This is a safety feature. Once the engine starts and the ECM sees the crankshaft turning, it keeps the relay on as long as the engine runs. If the relay fails, the fuel pump gets no power, fuel pressure drops to zero, and the engine will crank but refuse to start.

Symptoms of a Bad Fuel Pump Relay

A failing or failed fuel pump relay produces a set of symptoms you can recognize without any diagnostic tools. The most common ones are listed below.

1. Engine cranks but does not start — This is the classic symptom. You turn the key, the starter motor spins the engine, but it never fires up because there is no fuel pressure.
2. Engine starts and then dies — Sometimes the relay makes contact initially, the engine starts, but the relay drops out and the engine stalls.
3. No fuel pump prime sound — When you turn the key to "ON" (without cranking), you should hear a brief whirring sound from the rear of the car as the fuel pump primes for about two seconds. If you hear nothing, the relay or the pump itself may be dead.
4. Intermittent starting problems — If the relay has worn contacts, it may work sometimes and fail other times, causing random no-start conditions.
5. Fuel pump runs continuously — If the relay sticks in the closed position, the pump may run nonstop even with the ignition off. This can drain the battery and flood the engine.

Keep in mind that these symptoms can also point to a bad fuel pump, a blown fuse, or a wiring problem. The relay is just one suspect, but it is the easiest to test and replace first.

How to Test the Fuel Pump Relay

You do not need to be a professional mechanic to test this relay. With a few basic tools, you can confirm whether the relay is good or bad. Here is a step-by-step approach.

Step 1: Locate the relay. Remove the trunk trim panel as described above and find relay R11 in the rear fuse block.

Step 2: Pull the relay out. Use a relay puller tool or a pair of needle-nose pliers. Grasp the relay firmly and pull it straight out of its socket.

Step 3: Inspect the relay visually. Look at the plastic housing for cracks, melting, or discoloration. Look at the blade terminals for corrosion or burn marks. A relay that looks damaged should be replaced.

Step 4: Test the relay coil. Set your multimeter to measure resistance (ohms). Measure between relay terminals 85 and 86. You should see a resistance value typically between 50 and 120 ohms. If you get infinite resistance, the coil is open and the relay is dead. Replace it.

Step 5: Test the relay switch contacts. With the relay out, measure resistance between terminals 30 and 87. It should read infinite (open) because the switch is normally open. Then apply 12 volts to terminal 85 and ground terminal 86. This energizes the coil, and the switch should close. Measure again between terminals 30 and 87. You should see near-zero resistance (less than 2 ohms). If the contacts stay open or show high resistance, the relay is faulty.

Step 6: Check for a clicking sound. When you apply power to the coil, you should hear a distinct click. No click means the relay is not functioning.

If the relay tests good, move on to testing the circuit and the fuse.

Testing the Fuel Pump Fuse and Circuit

The fuel pump fuse (F28, 15A) protects the fuel pump circuit. If this fuse is blown, the pump will not run even with a good relay. Here is how to check it.

1. Remove the fuse from the rear fuse block. Look at the metal strip inside. If the strip is broken or melted, the fuse is blown.
2. Test with a multimeter set to continuity. Touch one probe to each of the two fuse prongs. You should hear a beep or see near-zero resistance. If not, replace the fuse with a 15-amp mini fuse.
3. Why did the fuse blow? If the new fuse blows immediately, there is a short to ground in the fuel pump supply voltage circuit or the fuel pump itself has an internal short. Do not keep replacing fuses without finding the root cause.

If the fuse and relay both test fine, you need to check whether the relay is actually receiving power and whether the ECM is commanding it on.

How to Test the Fuel Pump Relay Circuit (With the Relay Out)

This diagnostic procedure comes straight from the GM service information and works for the 2007 Saturn Aura. You will need a test light or a multimeter.

1. Turn the ignition OFF. Remove the fuel pump relay from the rear electrical center.
2. Turn the ignition ON (engine off). Probe the control circuit terminal (the wire that goes to the ECM) in the relay socket with a test light connected to a good ground. Command the fuel pump relay ON and OFF using a scan tool. The test light should turn ON and OFF with each command. If it does not, there is an open or a short to ground in the control circuit, or a problem at the ECM. If it stays on, there is a short to voltage in the control circuit.
3. Connect the test light between the control circuit terminal and the ground circuit terminal. Command the relay on and off again. With a known good ground on one side and the ECM controlling the other, the light should follow the commands. If the light never lights, the ground circuit has an open or high resistance.
4. Check for battery voltage. Probe the battery positive voltage circuit terminal in the relay socket with a test light connected to ground. The light should be bright. If not, there is an open in the battery positive voltage circuit.
5. Bypass the relay. Connect a 15-amp fused jumper wire between the battery positive voltage terminal and the fuel pump supply voltage terminal in the relay socket. If the fuel pump turns on, the relay is the problem. If the pump still does not run, the fault lies in the wiring between the relay and the pump, or in the fuel pump itself.

This test isolates the problem: you will know whether the relay, the wiring, or the pump is at fault. Do not skip the fused jumper wire step. Using an unfused jumper can cause a fire if there is a short.

How to Replace the Fuel Pump Relay

Replacing the fuel pump relay on a 2007 Saturn Aura takes about five minutes. Here is what to do.

1. Make sure the ignition is off.
2. Open the trunk and remove the trim panel on the driver's side to expose the rear fuse block.
3. Locate relay R11.
4. Pull the old relay straight out.
5. Compare the new relay to the old one. They should have the same number of terminals and the same terminal layout.
6. Push the new relay straight in until it seats fully. You should feel a positive click.
7. Reinstall the trim panel.
8. Test the repair. Turn the ignition to "ON" and listen for the fuel pump prime sound. Then try starting the engine.

A note on relay part numbers: The OEM fuel pump relay for the 2007 Saturn Aura is GM part number 13503102. This relay is used across multiple GM vehicles and is sometimes listed as a "relay, voltage and glow plug" or "multiuse" relay because the same relay body is used for fog lights, cooling fans, and other circuits. When shopping for a replacement, check the part number to ensure compatibility. Aftermarket relays that meet the same specifications will also work, but OEM or high-quality aftermarket relays are recommended.

What If the Relay Is Not the Problem?

If the relay tests good and the circuit checks out, the problem may be the fuel pump itself. The fuel pump on the 2007 Saturn Aura is part of the fuel pump and sender assembly, which is mounted inside the fuel tank. It is an electric pump that draws fuel from the tank and pushes it to the engine at high pressure. A failing pump may produce symptoms similar to a bad relay: no start, stalling, or low power.

Testing the pump usually requires a fuel pressure gauge. You can also listen for the pump to run when you turn the ignition on. If the relay clicks but you hear no pump noise from the rear of the car, and the fuse is good, the pump may be dead. At that point, you will need to replace the fuel pump and sender assembly. Replacement requires dropping the fuel tank or accessing the pump through an access panel under the rear seat, depending on the model year and trim. This is a more involved job, and many owners choose to leave it to a professional shop unless they have experience with fuel system work.

Another thing to check is the engine control module (ECM). If the ECM is not commanding the relay to turn on, you will see no power on the control circuit when you use a scan tool to command the relay on. This could point to a wiring issue between the ECM and the relay, a poor connection at the ECM, or a failed ECM itself. Replacing the ECM is a last resort after all wiring and component checks have been exhausted.

Preventive Maintenance Tips

Fuel pump relays do not wear out on a schedule. They typically fail due to age, heat, or electrical stress. However, a few simple habits can reduce your chances of getting stranded.

1. Do not run the fuel tank down to empty regularly. The fuel pump relies on fuel for cooling. Running low frequently can shorten its life, and a struggling pump puts more electrical load on the relay.
2. Listen for the prime sound every time you start the car. If it ever sounds weak or absent, investigate sooner rather than later.
3. Keep the trunk area dry. Water intrusion into the rear fuse block can corrode relay terminals and cause intermittent failures. Check the trunk seal and the area around the fuse block periodically.
4. Use quality parts. If the relay fails, replace it with an OEM or a reputable aftermarket unit. Cheap no-name relays may not handle the current load reliably.

A Word On Safety

Working with fuel system components carries some risk. Before you do any work, make sure the engine is off and the key is out of the ignition. Do not smoke or have open flames near the vehicle. If you are testing the fuel pump by bypassing the relay, use a fused jumper wire. Fuel is flammable, and an electrical short near the fuel tank can be extremely dangerous.

If you are not comfortable with electrical testing or working around fuel components, have a qualified mechanic do the diagnosis. The cost of a professional diagnostic check is often worth the peace of mind, especially if you suspect the problem might be the pump rather than the relay.

Why Choose a KEMSO Fuel Pump?

If your 2007 Saturn Aura needs a new fuel pump, consider a KEMSO brand fuel pump. KEMSO fuel pumps are built as high-performance, OEM replacement units, which means they are designed to meet or exceed the original factory specifications for fit, performance, and durability. Whether you drive a Saturn Aura, a BMW motorcycle, a Kawasaki Jet Ski, a Subaru Impreza, or a Honda Civic, KEMSO offers a fuel pump solution that delivers consistent fuel pressure and reliable operation[^URL].

Here is what sets KEMSO apart:

1. High-performance engineering — KEMSO pumps are designed to handle the demands of daily driving and high-output applications, ensuring your engine gets the fuel it needs under all conditions.
2. True OEM replacement — Each KEMSO fuel pump is manufactured to match the original part's dimensions, electrical specifications, and flow characteristics, so installation is straightforward and fitment is secure.
3. Lifetime warranty — KEMSO stands behind its products with a lifetime warranty, giving you long-term confidence that you will not have to buy another pump twice.

You can browse the full KEMSO fuel pump lineup and place an order directly at the KEMSO Racing website: https://www.kemsoracing.com/.

Final Thoughts

Finding and replacing the fuel pump relay on a 2007 Saturn Aura is a straightforward DIY job. The relay lives in the trunk fuse block on the driver's side, labeled R11, with the fuel pump fuse F28 sitting right next to it. A quick visual inspection and a simple resistance test are enough to confirm whether the relay is good or bad. If the relay is fine, move on to testing the fuse, the circuit, and the pump itself.

The most common failure pattern is this: the engine cranks, but it will not start, and you hear no fuel pump hum when you turn the key. Nine times out of ten, the culprit is either the relay, the fuse, or the pump. Because the relay is cheap and easy to replace, always start there before you spend money on a new pump. And if you do end up needing a new pump, KEMSO offers a high-quality, performance-oriented replacement that is backed by a lifetime warranty.

Visit https://www.kemsoracing.com/ to find the right KEMSO fuel pump for your vehicle and get back on the road with confidence.