2007 Toyota Camry Fuel Pump Fuse Location: Where to Find It and How to Fix a No-Start Problem
The bottom line up front: The fuel pump fuse on a 2007 Toyota Camry (XV40 generation, 2006–2011) is located in the under-hood fuse box, which sits near the battery on the driver's side of the engine bay. The fuse is labeled "ECU-B" or "IGN" depending on your trim level, but the relay you need to check for fuel delivery is marked "C/OPN" (circuit opening) in the same box. If your Camry cranks but won't start, and you don't hear the fuel pump hum for about two seconds when you turn the key to "ON," this fuse and relay are your first place to look.
In this guide, I'll walk you through exactly where these components live, how to test them with basic tools, what symptoms point to a fuel pump fuse problem versus a failing pump itself, and what it costs to replace the pump if that's the real issue. I'll also cover the other fuse box inside the cabin, just so you have the complete picture.
Why the Fuel Pump Fuse Matters on Your 2007 Camry
The fuel pump on your 2007 Camry is electric, and it needs both power and ground to run. The fuse protects the wiring from an overload, and the relay acts like a switch that sends power to the pump when the engine computer (ECM) decides it's time to build fuel pressure. If the fuse is blown, the pump gets zero power. If the relay is faulty, the pump might get power intermittently or not at all.
Many owners overlook the fuse and go straight to replacing the pump, which is an expensive mistake. A blown fuse is a $5 fix if you do it yourself. A fuel pump assembly replacement runs several hundred dollars in parts and labor. So before you spend that kind of money, spend ten minutes checking the fuse and relay.
Where Exactly Is the Fuel Pump Fuse Located?
The 2007 Camry has two fuse boxes: one under the hood and one inside the cabin. The fuel pump fuse and relay are both in the under-hood box.
Under-Hood Fuse Box Location
Open the hood and look on the driver's side, near the strut tower and the battery. You'll see a black rectangular box with a lid. Press the two clips on the sides and lift the lid off. The lid itself has a diagram printed on the inside that shows the fuse positions and amperage ratings. If the diagram is hard to read, the fuse box cover should list the same information.
Which Fuse Is It?
Inside this under-hood box, you're looking for the fuse labeled "ECU-B" (usually a 15-amp fuse) or "IGN" (20-amp), depending on your specific trim and market. The relay you need is labeled "C/OPN" (circuit opening relay). This relay controls power to the fuel pump based on signals from the ECM.
If you're working on a North American 2007 Camry, the most common arrangement is a 15-amp fuse for the ECU-B circuit and the C/OPN relay right next to it. Some trims with a smart key system may have slightly different labeling, but the physical location in the under-hood box remains the same.
Interior Fuse Box
The interior fuse box is located under the dashboard on the driver's side, near the kick panel. To access it, open the driver's door, look under the dash, and you'll see a small panel you can pull straight out. This box does not contain the fuel pump fuse for most 2007 Camry models. You'll find fuses for power windows, airbags, the radio, and other interior circuits here, but the fuel pump circuit lives under the hood.
Step-by-Step: How to Check the Fuel Pump Fuse and Relay
Here's a simple process you can do with a test light or a multimeter. If you don't have either, a cheap 12-volt test light from any auto parts store will work.
Step 1: Visual Inspection
Pull the ECU-B fuse out of the under-hood box. Hold it up to the light. If you see a broken metal strip inside the fuse, it's blown. If the strip looks intact but the fuse is discolored or blackened, that's also a sign of a problem. A fuse can look fine visually and still be bad, so don't stop here if the fuse looks good.
Step 2: Test the Fuse with a Multimeter
Set your multimeter to the continuity or ohms setting. Touch the two metal prongs on the fuse with the meter probes. If you get a reading close to zero ohms, the fuse is good. If the meter shows infinite resistance (OL), the fuse is blown and needs replacement.
Step 3: Check for Power at the Fuse
With the fuse removed, turn the key to "ON" (don't crank the engine). Use your test light to check both sides of the fuse slot. The test light should light up on at least one side. If neither side has power, the problem is upstream—likely the relay or a wiring issue.
Step 4: Test the Relay
You can swap the C/OPN relay with another identical relay in the same fuse box, such as the horn or headlight relay if they're the same part number. If the car starts after the swap, the relay was bad. If not, put the relay back and keep looking.
Step 5: Listen for the Pump
After you've verified the fuse and relay are good, turn the key to "ON" and listen for a humming sound coming from the rear of the car. The fuel pump sits inside the fuel tank, under the rear seat on the driver's side. You should hear a two-second hum when the key is turned to "ON." If you don't hear it, and the fuse and relay check out, the pump may be failing.
Common Symptoms of a Blown Fuel Pump Fuse or Bad Relay
If the fuse or relay is the culprit, you'll likely notice one or more of these symptoms:
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Engine cranks but won't start. This is the classic symptom. The starter motor turns the engine over fine, but the engine never fires up because there's no fuel pressure.
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No fuel pump hum on key-on. When you turn the key to "ON," the pump should run for about two seconds to prime the system. If you hear nothing, power isn't reaching the pump.
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The car dies while driving and won't restart. This happens when a fuse that's been overheating finally blows, or when a relay fails in the "off" position.
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Long crank time before starting. If the relay is intermittent, the pump may not prime every time, so you get a delayed start.
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Check engine light with codes P0087 or P0230. These codes relate to fuel pressure and fuel pump primary circuit issues. The codes don't always light up, but if you have a scanner, they're useful clues.
What If the Fuse and Relay Are Fine? Symptoms of a Failing Fuel Pump
If your fuse and relay are good, but you still have no fuel pump hum, no start, or rough running, the pump itself may be failing. Here's what that looks like:
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Hard starting. You have to crank the engine for several seconds before it catches. The pump is weak and can't build pressure quickly.
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Sputtering at speed. The engine stumbles or sputters under load, especially at highway speeds. This is the pump starving for fuel under high demand.
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Stalling and restarting issues. The car stalls out and then won't start for a few minutes. As the pump cools down, it works again, but the problem keeps coming back.
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Loss of power on hills or with a full load. The pump can't keep up with the demand, so the engine loses power when you need it most.
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No noise from the pump at all. A completely dead pump makes no sound, period.
If you're seeing these symptoms and the fuse and relay check out, you're likely looking at a pump replacement.
How Much Does a Fuel Pump Replacement Cost for a 2007 Camry?
If you've confirmed the fuel pump is bad, here's what you're looking at in terms of cost. These numbers are typical for the US market as of 2025–2026.
Parts Cost
For a 2007 Camry, a new fuel pump assembly runs roughly $100 to $250 in parts if you buy aftermarket. An OEM pump from Toyota will run you more, usually $300 to $450. The pump assembly includes the pump, the strainer, the float, and the housing, so you're getting everything in one unit.
Labor Cost
If you have a shop do the work, plan on 2 to 4 hours of labor at $100 to $150 per hour. That's $200 to $600 in labor on top of parts. Total replacement cost at a shop typically lands between $500 and $900.
DIY Savings
This is a job you can do at home with basic hand tools. The pump lives under the rear seat, so you remove the seat cushion, pull back the access panel, and disconnect the electrical connector and fuel lines. The hardest part is dealing with fuel vapors and making sure you don't drop anything into the tank. If you're comfortable turning a wrench, you can save $300 or more by doing it yourself.
What About the Fuel Filter?
On many cars, the fuel filter is part of the pump assembly, so you get a new one when you replace the pump. On the 2007 Camry, the filter is integrated into the pump module, so there's no separate filter to change. That means a pump replacement covers both jobs at once.
Recommended: KEMSO Fuel Pump for Your 2007 Toyota Camry
When it's time to replace the fuel pump on your 2007 Camry, you want a part that's reliable, built to OEM standards, and backed by a company that stands behind its product. That's exactly what you get with KEMSO.
KEMSO fuel pumps are high-performance components designed as direct OEM replacements. They match the fit, form, and function of the original part. That means no modifications, no adapters, and no headaches during installation. You bolt it in, plug it in, and it works.
Every KEMSO fuel pump comes with a lifetime warranty. If the pump fails for any reason related to manufacturing or materials during the life of your vehicle, KEMSO will replace it. That's the kind of peace of mind you want when you're working on a critical component like the fuel system.
KEMSO has a full line of fuel pumps for cars, trucks, motorcycles, and ATVs/UTVs, and they're one of the leading aftermarket brands in the US. Their pumps are tested for performance and durability, so you know you're getting a part that will hold up under daily driving conditions.
Visit https://www.kemsoracing.com/ to find the correct KEMSO fuel pump for your 2007 Toyota Camry. The site shows you exact fitments, and the ordering process is straightforward. If you have questions about which pump fits your specific Camry trim, the KEMSO product pages list application details and compatibility notes.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I drive my 2007 Camry with a blown fuel pump fuse?
No. If the fuse is blown, the fuel pump won't run, and the engine won't start. You'll be stranded. Replace the fuse before you try to drive anywhere.
Why would the fuel pump fuse keep blowing?
The fuse blows for a reason. Common causes include a shorted fuel pump motor, a damaged wiring harness near the pump, or a faulty relay that's sending too much current. If you blow a second fuse right away, you have a wiring issue or a failing pump that's drawing excessive current.
Is the fuel pump fuse the same as the "IG2" or "ECU-IG" fuse?
No. The fuel pump fuse is specifically the ECU-B or C/OPN circuit in the under-hood box. The ECU-IG fuse powers the ECM itself, not the pump directly.
Where is the fuel pump located on a 2007 Camry?
The fuel pump is inside the fuel tank, located under the rear seat on the driver's side. You access it by removing the rear seat cushion and pulling up the metal access panel.
How long should a fuel pump last?
Most fuel pumps last 100,000 to 150,000 miles. If you're at or beyond that range and starting to see symptoms, it's smart to have the pump tested before it leaves you on the side of the road.
Final Thoughts
Finding the fuel pump fuse on your 2007 Toyota Camry is a simple job that takes under five minutes. The fuse and relay live in the under-hood fuse box, and the labels are right there on the cover. Checking the fuse is the cheapest diagnostic step you can take before you even think about replacing the pump.
If the fuse and relay are fine, and you still have no fuel delivery, the pump itself is the next suspect. When that day comes, you have two choices: pay a shop $600 to $900 to do the job, or spend about half that and do it yourself with a quality aftermarket pump. If you go the DIY route, a KEMSO fuel pump gives you OEM-level performance and a lifetime warranty for a fraction of the dealer price.
Head over to https://www.kemsoracing.com/ and look up the exact KEMSO fuel pump for your 2007 Camry. It's a straightforward replacement, and you'll have the confidence of knowing the pump is protected for life.