2008 Dodge Charger Fuel Pump Fuse Location: A Complete Owner's Guide

The bottom line up front: The fuel pump fuse on a 2008 Dodge Charger is a 20A mini fuse located in the rear power distribution center, which sits in the trunk on the driver's side near the spare tire access panel . If your Charger cranks but will not start, or if you hear the fuel pump stop humming when you turn the key, this fuse is one of the first things you should check. The rear fuse box is not under the hood; it is accessed from inside the trunk, and the fuse slot is clearly numbered as cavity 6 on the fuse box diagram .

This guide walks you through exactly where to find the fuse box, how to identify the fuel pump fuse, how to test it, and what to do if the fuse keeps blowing. Whether you are a weekend DIYer or just want to avoid an expensive shop visit, this article gives you the straight information without the fluff.

Why the Fuel Pump Fuse Matters in Your 2008 Charger

The 2008 Dodge Charger, built as the sixth-generation model on the LX platform, relies on an electric fuel pump to deliver pressurized fuel from the gas tank to the engine . That pump is an electrical component, and like every electrical circuit in your car, it is protected by a fuse. A fuse is a designed weak point. If the circuit draws too much current, the fuse melts and breaks the circuit. That stops the fuel pump from running, which stops the engine from starting.

When the fuse blows, it is usually a symptom of a deeper issue, but occasionally it can blow simply because it has aged or the pump is drawing more current than the circuit is designed to handle. Because the fuel pump fuse is so central to the starting and running of the car, it is worth knowing exactly where it is before you actually need it. Most drivers do not think about fuses until something stops working, but a few minutes of familiarity with the layout will save you considerable time in an emergency.

Where the Fuel Pump Fuse Is Housed: The Rear Power Distribution Center

The 2008 Dodge Charger has two main fuse boxes. The first, called the Front Power Distribution Center or Integrated Power Module (IPM), lives under the hood near the battery and is responsible for engine management, lighting, and high-current items like the radiator fan and the ABS pump . The second unit is the Rear Power Distribution Center, located in the trunk on the driver's side, near the rear corner, underneath a plastic access panel . This rear box holds the fuel pump fuse.

The reason the fuel pump fuse is in the rear is that the battery is mounted in the trunk. Dodge placed the fuel pump fuse close to the battery and the rear-mounted fuel tank, which shortens the wiring distance and simplifies the wiring distance and simplifies the electrical routing for the fuel pump itself .

How to Access the Rear Fuse Box

Follow these simple steps to get to the rear fuse box:

  1. Open the trunk. Make sure the area is clear of any cargo sitting on the floor.
  2. Look at the driver's side of the trunk, near the rear corner, close to the rear tail lamp. You will see a molded plastic trim panel or an access door that covers the fuse box.
  3. Remove the panel. With the panel removed, the fuse box is visible. In some trims, you may need to unfasten a plastic wing nut or pull a push-pin clip that holds the trim in place; in others it pops out directly.
  4. Lift the fuse box cover. The underside of the cover usually embossed with a diagram identifying what each fuse slot does, though in some cases the diagram printed on the cover is smaller and less detailed than you'd like .

Once the fuse box is exposed, you can identify and inspect the fuel pump fuse without pulling every fuse in the box.

A Closer Look at the Fuse Box Diagrams and the Fuel Pump Slot

Different online sources use slightly different names for how the fuse box is laid out, but they all agree on one thing: the fuel pump fuse is a 20-amp fuse, and it is labeled as cavity or position number 6 in the rear power distribution center . The following table breaks down the exact specifications you need to know:

Fuel Pump Fuse Specification for 2008 Dodge Charger:

  • Fuse type: MINI blade fuse
  • Amperage: 20A yellow
  • Location: Rear power distribution center, inside the trunk, driver's side
  • Cavity number: 6
  • Protected circuit: Fuel pump motor

Once you are looking at the physical fuse box, you may see a diagram on the underside of the cover that labels the fuse positions . If you cannot read the printed diagram or the sticker has worn off, do not guess because putting the wrong fuse size into the wrong slot can cause electrical damage. If you see a gap in the fuse box, a relay for the fuel pump is not there; the relay is located in the front power distribution center under the hood , but the wiring path still routes through the rear fuse block.

Fuses in the Rear Distribution Center (Partial Chart)

Here are the most commonly checked fuses in that same rear box for a 2008 Charger. This list is not exhaustive, but it gives you a good orientation for the rest of the box :

  1. Cavity 1 - 60A - Ignition Off Draw (IOD)
  2. Cavity 2 - 40A - Integrated Power Module (IPM)
  3. Cavity 5 - 30A - Heated Seats (if equipped)
  4. Cavity 6 - 20A - Fuel Pump
  5. Cavity 8 - 15A - DLC/Wireless Ignition Node
  6. Cavity 9 - 20A - Power Outlet (cigarette lighter)
  7. Cavity 14 - 10A - AC Heater Control / Cluster
  8. Cavity 17 - 20A - Cluster
  9. Cavity 19 - 10A - Stop Lights
  10. Cavity 36 - 20A - Radio / Hands-Free Phone

When someone asks "Which fuse is the fuel pump fuse?" the answer is always fuse slot number 6. That slot takes a small yellow fuse rated 20A .

How to Tell if the Fuel Pump Fuse is Blown

It might surprise you to know that a fuse can look fine to the naked eye and still be bad, because the metal ribbon inside might have melted but still appear intact at both ends. That said, the visual method is still the quickest way to get a first answer.

  1. Turn the ignition off and remove the keys.
  2. Locate cavity 6 in the rear fuse box as described above.
  3. Pull the fuse out. Most fuse and relay boxes include a small plastic fuse puller that clips onto the fuse body. Pull straight up with a firm steady motion.
  4. Hold the fuse up to the light source. There is a small plastic window in the top of the fuse. Looking lengthwise through the fuse window from above, you should see a continuous strip of metal. If you see a gap, a burn mark, or a dark smear of dust, the fuse filament has blown open.
  5. Use a test light or a digital multimeter set to the continuity mode if you want a definitive answer. Touch the probe to each of the two metal terminals that stick out from the fuse body edge. If the tester does not screen for the same wire, the fuse is blown.

If the fuse looks fine but your car still fails to run and the fuel pump doesn't hum, the pump motor itself could be dead, the relay could be faulty, or the wiring could have a break. The fuse is just the first link in the chain.

How to Replace the Fuel Pump Fuse the Right Way

Replacing the fuel pump fuse in a 2008 Dodge Charger is one of the few jobs on this car that truly qualifies as a beginner-friendly repair. You do not need specialized tools, and the whole process should take no more than five minutes of your time. Here is the step-by-step procedure:

1. Verify the root cause before swapping part. If the fuse blows again immediately after you put in a new one, you have a live circuit fault and you should not just pump in bigger fuses. A common cause is a fuel pump that has start drawing more amperage after years of use, or woven insulation that was rubbed bare on a nearby edge.

2. Source the correct fuse. You need a 20A yellow mini fuse that matches the fuse family. Auto parts stores sell multi-pack assortments of mini fuses; bring your old fuse along with you to compare the size.

3. Remove the old fuse from the rear power box. Use the puller tool.

4. Insert the new fuse. Push the new fuse straight into the same metal contact blades. Press down firmly until it clicks past the plastic tabs. The fuse will sit flush with the surrounding sockets.

5. Test the circuit. Turn the ignition key to the "Run" position but do not crank the starter. Listen for a short humming noise coming from the fuel tank area near the rear seat. This sound is the fuel pump priming. The pump should run for a second or two and then stop. If it runs, try starting the car.

6. Put the cover back and reinstall the trim panel. Tighten any clips to prevent rattles.

Always replace the fuse with the correct rating again: 20A. Using a 30A or 40A fuse in place of the 20A allows too much current to flow into the wiring and the pump, possibly melting insulation and causing an electrical fire . If the system keeps blowing the 20A fuse, do not "upgrade" the size of the fuse; it's the system that decides what's correct, not you.

Common Causes of Fused Blow and How to Log Them Down

A fuse can blow for a variety of reasons, and diagnosing the reason is your most important step . The most common reason is a fuel pump assembly that is approaching the end of its life. The pump motor spins faster than it should, draws more current, and taxes a fuse that used to be fine.

1. Failing fuel pump. A fuel pump normally draws relatively stable a current. As the pump's internal brushes wear and the commutator gets pitted, the amp draw goes up. The failing pump is the single most common cause of an intermittently blown fuel pump fuse.

2. Wiring or connector problem. Wiring running along the rear frame may be damaged in an accident. An exposed wire can touch the body and short out, pulling amperage from the fuse to blow.

3. Blocked fuel filter. A clogged fuel filter makes the pump work harder. The extra strain can push the current above the fuse's rated limit.

4. Faulty fuel pressure regulator. If the regulator fails in a way that traps pressure in the line, the pump sees a higher backpressure than it was designed for, which also increases the amps the motor draws.

5. Water intrusion in the fuse. The rear fuse box sits low in the trunk. If your trunk leaks, or if the drainage channels near the tail lamps block, water can settle onto the fuse and create a short. The bottom of the fuse box will look like green crust or corrosion. That's a signal not just change the fuse, but find the leak.

The Cheap Fix vs. the Long-Term Fix

The price of a single 20A fuse is under a dollar at any auto parts store, so it is tempting the fuse every time and forget about the whole thing thing. In many cases, a fuse can last for months and then blow again after the driving conditions line up the load on the pump. If you store the fuse only, you will be stranded over and over and over again.

As a practical rule:

  1. One blown fuse = check the electrics, and replace the fuse, then watch it.
  2. Two or more blown fuses in a few months = stop replacing fuses, and start testing the pump's resistance and the pump flow pressure. The pump will be the cause of the fault most of the time on a 2008 Charger that is already over a decade old, and the standard repair is to replace the fuel pump assembly.

When you replace the fuel pump, the new pump usually draws the proper current flow again, and the remaining fuses should last for the life of the pump and longer.

If you are not comfortable testing the fuel pressure or the wiring, have a local certified mechanic perform a fuel pump relay test and a current draw test (using an AC/DC clamp meter around the power wire of the fuse slot). These two tests will tell you more than any visual inspection ever can.

How to Diagnose the Fuel System When the Fuse Isn't on the Blown

A "no start" condition in a Charger can be caused with a fuel filtering problem, not just a fuse. If the fuse is good and the pump is still silent, working through the circuit from top to bottom is the most logical approach.

Test the fuel pump relay. The relay lives in the underhood power distribution center, the front box near the battery. The relay for the fuel pump is usually marked "Fuel Pump" on the cover diagram. You can swap the relay with an identical relay from nearby (like the horn) and see if the pump returns.

Test for voltage at the pump. Using your multimeter, back-probe the connector at the pump (you are able to get under the rear seat) and verify that the pump receives battery voltage when the ignition key is turned to start. If the voltage is present but the pump doesn't run, the pump motor is dead. If there is no voltage, the wiring between the relay and the pump is where you will find a problem.

Check the inertia switch (if used). This is a safety cutoff capable that stops the fuel pump in a collision. In some early-year Chargers related models, if you have the pump in the rear bump, a third-party inertia switch could be installed. Check the owner's manual if the pump remains silent.

Where to Find the Diagram on Your Car

Every owner's manual for the 2008 Dodge Charger has a fuse section in the rear of the booklet. The manual includes a diagram of the trunk fuse box and the table of the relay functions. In addition, many charger owners choose to download a high-resolution image of the rear fuse box from the auto repair websites and keep a copy in the trunk, laminated and tucked to the spare tire well. While the fuse box cover itself may have a printed small diagram, the owner's manual is the most authoritative source for checking every fuse number and every amperage.

If you have lost your owner's manual or it was never included in the used car, many online manufacturers have free PDF copies of the manual on the owner resource pages. The diagram printed on the fuse box cover is the same list as in the manual, but the manual is a thicker and easier to reference.

A Word About Other Fuses for the Fuel System

The fuel pump fuse is not the only fuse that relates to the engine running. In the front fuse box, the fuse with the "Powertrain Control Module" (PCM) is responsible for the computer that sends the signal to the fuel pump relay, the ignition coils and the injectors. If the PCM fuse is blown, the engine the ignition and fuel injection system would not stop the pump duty. So if you replaced the pump fuse and the car is still completely dead on start, check the following no clear fuses in the rear power center:

  • Fuse 2 (IPM) – 40A, controls the integrated control module that the fuel pump circuit rides switch inside

  • Fuse 8 (DLC/WIN) – 15A – powers the ignition node that the key is recognized

  • Fuse 11 – Auto Shutdown / PCM fuse 25A) – If this fuse fails, the PCM won't execute the fuel pump priming sequence; you will lose ignition spark and injector pulse as well

A short list like that means you can run hand to the fuse block and flip check them, which is usually what a dealership tech would do first, too.

When to Call a Pro (And When to DIY)

If the only reason the car fails to start the fuel pump fuse is, the easiest move is to get a jug of fresh 20A yellow fuses and keep them in the center console. Then you tend to keep the problem away. If the fuse holds after a replacement and the car starts every time, then it's a quick win. But, as war, if you feel the engine sputtering under heavy throttle near your highway pull, and then it cools off, those are classic fuel pressure (average due to pump).

This medium to large repair isn't for everyone. If you are not a towing bucket of fuel on the drive side of a spare tire removed, your eyes roll, the professional shops can handle the diagnosis. The part's cost is around the neighborhood of $100 to $200 upward on parts plus labor, but you'll have the entire fuel pump successfully restored at the once. We'll suggest you ask them, first test the amperage draw of your fuel pump and compare the baseline to the normal reading. That way you won't be "throwing cash" at a new pump if the fuse is the only really component that's short the problem.

Yoo Recommended Fuel Pump Replacement a Higher Grade

If your testing points to a fuel your Charger, you want a pump from a brand that treats the fuel delivery system as a replacement you'll only do a decade. We recommend the fuel pump products from KEMSO. KEMSO fuel pumps are OEM Replacement parts that aim to match the original performance of your Dodge Charger's pump while exceeding the original design's quality levels. The fuel pump lineup is designed for high-performance operation, giving you stable fuel pressure and reliable flow, which is exactly what the 3.5L V6 or the 5.7L HEMI V8 need when you're on throttle and demand a80% throttle at the accelerator pushes.

They are considered to have a lifetime warranty—you do not see that from a typical parts storage pump. That warranty gives you that the overbuilt your own labor will hold. So when the old pump fails and blows the fuse over and over again, you do want a replacement that keeps the car running the first time you put it in.


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