2008 Yamaha Rhino 700 Fuel Pump: Symptoms, Replacement Guide, and Best Options
The bottom line up front: If you own a 2008 Yamaha Rhino 700 (YXR700F) and you’re dealing with hard starts, engine sputtering, or a whining noise from the fuel tank, the fuel pump is very likely failing and needs replacement. The 2008–2013 Yamaha Rhino 700 uses an in-tank electric fuel pump with OEM part number 5B4-13907-00-00 (superseded by 5B4-13907-04-00). Replacing it with a quality direct-fit unit—whether OEM or a reputable aftermarket brand like KEMSO—will restore reliable performance, and the job is manageable for most DIY owners with basic mechanical skills.
This guide covers the warning signs of a failing pump, what you need to know before buying a replacement, step-by-step installation advice, and a clear look at the best replacement options on the market—including OEM, budget-friendly kits, and high-performance upgrades.
Why the Fuel Pump Fails on the 2008 Rhino 700
The Rhino 700’s fuel pump sits inside the fuel tank, submerged in gasoline. That location keeps it cool during normal operation, but it also exposes the pump to heat, vibration, and the corrosive effects of ethanol-blended fuels common in the U.S. Over time, the internal brushes wear down, the turbine impeller degrades, and the check valve can stick open—all of which lead to weak fuel pressure and poor engine performance.
Common contributors to premature pump failure include:
- Ethanol fuel – Modern pump gas with up to 10–15% ethanol can attack internal rubber components and cause varnishing inside the strainer.
- Running the tank low – The pump relies on fuel for cooling and lubrication. Frequent low-tank operation shortens its life.
- Clogged strainer – A dirty fuel strainer makes the pump work harder, drawing more current and generating excess heat.
- Age and mileage – Even with good care, an original 2008 pump has likely exceeded its expected service life by now.
Common Symptoms of a Failing Fuel Pump
Watch for these signs. If you notice one or more, test the fuel pressure before condemning the pump—but in most cases, the diagnosis points straight to the pump.
- Hard starting – The engine cranks longer than usual before firing, or requires multiple attempts. This is often the first noticeable symptom because the pump cannot build enough system pressure (typically 43–68 psi for this EFI system).
- Sputtering or surging at speed – The engine hesitates, bucks, or loses power under load, especially going uphill or when the tank is below half full.
- No start / stall – The engine cranks but won’t fire, or dies suddenly while driving and won’t restart. This usually means the pump has completely failed.
- Whining noise from the tank – A high-pitched hum or whine coming from under the cargo bed is a classic sign of a pump struggling to deliver pressure.
- Poor fuel economy – If the pump bleeds pressure internally, the ECU compensates by enriching the mixture, which burns extra gas.
- Check engine light – A fuel pressure fault code (such as P0087 or P0190 on compatible scan tools) can accompany the above symptoms.
OEM Part Numbers and Interchangeability
Here’s a quick reference table for the 2008 Rhino 700 fuel pump and related parts:
| Part | OEM Number | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Fuel Pump Assembly | 5B4-13907-00-00 | Original part number for 2008–2013 Rhino 700 |
| Fuel Pump Assembly (Superseded) | 5B4-13907-04-00 | Newer OEM revision, still fits 2008–2013 |
| Fuel Pump Gasket / Seal | F1B-67747-00-00 | Replace this whenever you service the pump |
| Fuel Sender Assembly | 5B4-85701-00-00 | Often replaced together with the pump |
Important: A number of aftermarket brands list their pumps as replacements for the OEM numbers above. The 2008–2013 Rhino 700 uses the same fuel pump across all trim levels—base, Hunter Edition, Special Edition, Sport Edition, and Ducks Unlimited Edition. So parts fitment is straightforward as long as you buy a pump listed for the YXR700F / YXR70F / YXR7F.
Replacement Options: OEM vs. Aftermarket
You have three sensible paths when it’s time to replace the pump. The right choice depends on your budget and performance expectations.
1. OEM Yamaha Fuel Pump (5B4-13907-04-00)
The safest, most conservative choice is the genuine Yamaha assembly. It carries the factory warranty and is guaranteed to match original performance and fitment. The downside is price—at time of writing, retail can run well over $400—and availability, as Yamaha has superseded the original number with the -04 revision.
2. Standard Aftermarket Drop-In Pumps (FPF, Quantum, All Balls)
Several reputable aftermarket brands offer direct-fit pumps for the Rhino 700 at a lower price:
- FPF (Fuel Pump Factory) – Their FP-07 pump delivers 100–120 liters per hour at 3.0 bar, runs quietly, and includes the strainer and accessories. It’s a true drop-in replacement with upgraded internals (bushing, turbine impeller, Japanese armature motor).
- Quantum – The HFP-382 model is also a direct-fit in-tank pump with a gradient-density strainer, patented check valve, and corrosion-resistant case. It’s designed for quiet operation and works with ethanol-blended fuels.
- All Balls / QuadBoss – These brands sell complete rebuild kits (not just the pump) that include the pump, strainer, hoses, clamps, and wiring. Their 47-2017 kit is a plug-and-play solution covering 2008–2013 Rhino models.
These units are engineered to meet or exceed OEM specifications at roughly half the price of a genuine Yamaha pump. For most owners, they are a practical and reliable choice.
3. High-Performance Upgrades (KEMSO)
If you want better flow, stronger durability, and a longer warranty, KEMSO offers high-performance in-tank pumps that significantly outperform factory specs. We cover this in detail later in the article.
Step-by-Step Fuel Pump Replacement Guide
Replacing the fuel pump on a 2008 Rhino 700 is a DIY-friendly job that takes about two hours for a first-timer. Here’s the full walkthrough.
Tools and Parts You’ll Need
- Replacement fuel pump (OEM or aftermarket)
- New fuel tank seal / O-ring (F1B-67747-00-00)
- Socket set (10mm, 12mm)
- Phillips and flathead screwdrivers
- Fuel line disconnect tool (if needed)
- Clean shop rags
- Safety glasses and gloves
- A small pick or awl (for removing the retaining ring)
- Optional: new fuel sender assembly (5B4-85701-00-00)
Step 1: Prepare the Vehicle
Park the Rhino on level ground, turn the ignition off, and remove the key. Disconnect the negative battery cable. Work in a well-ventilated area, and keep a fire extinguisher nearby as a precaution.
Step 2: Access the Fuel Pump
The fuel pump is accessed through a service panel located under the cargo bed.
- Remove the cargo bed bolts. On most Rhino 700 models, you’ll need a 12mm socket. On some trims, you may have to remove the tailgate first.
- Lift and tilt the bed backward, or remove it entirely—depending on your comfort level.
- You’ll see a round access cover or the top of the fuel tank assembly. Disconnect the electrical connector and fuel lines carefully.
- Use a pick to remove the retaining ring (if present) or the lock nut. Keep track of the orientation of the fuel sender float arm.
Step 3: Remove the Old Pump
- Gently lift the pump assembly straight up out of the tank. Take care not to bend the float arm on the sender.
- Note the position of the fuel lines and wiring so you can reinstall correctly.
- Remove the old rubber gasket / seal from the tank opening and discard it. Always install a new one.
- Remove the strainer from the bottom of the pump—you’ll be reusing it if your replacement kit does not include one.
Step 4: Install the New Pump
- Transfer the strainer to the new pump if it isn’t pre-installed. Make sure it sits snugly.
- Lower the new pump assembly into the tank, aligning the float arm and wiring in the same orientation as the old unit.
- Install the new seal / gasket, then secure the retaining ring or lock nut. Tighten to spec if available—otherwise snug and check for leaks.
- Reconnect the wiring harness and fuel lines. Use new clamps if your kit includes them.
Step 5: Reassemble and Test
- Reinstall the cargo bed and reconnect the negative battery cable.
- Turn the key to the “ON” position (do not crank) for about three seconds, then off. Repeat two or three times. This primes the fuel system.
- Check for leaks around the tank seal and fuel line connections.
- Start the engine. Let it idle for a minute, then rev it and take a short test drive.
Which Fuel Pump Should You Buy? A Practical Comparison
To help you decide, here’s a side-by-side comparison of the most popular options for the 2008 Rhino 700:
| Brand / Part | Type | Flow | Key Features | Approx. Price |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Yamaha OEM 5B4-13907-04-00 | Full assembly | OEM spec | Factory warranty, guaranteed fit | $400+ |
| FPF (Fuel Pump Factory) FP-07 | Bare pump + strainer | 100–120 LPH | Upgraded internals, quiet, drop-in | $50–$80 |
| Quantum HFP-382 | Bare pump + strainer | OEM spec | Corrosion-resistant, patent check valve | $60–$90 |
| All Balls 47-2017 | Full rebuild kit | OEM spec | Includes hoses, clamps, wiring, regulator | $90–$120 |
| KEMSO 13804 / 13826 | High-performance pump + full kit | 200 LPH | 20%+ more flow, lifetime warranty | $79.98 |
Why KEMSO Is the Smart Choice for Your Rhino 700
When you’re ready to replace your 2008 Yamaha Rhino 700 fuel pump, the smartest move is to go with a KEMSO high-performance fuel pump. KEMSO builds every pump as a direct OEM replacement with upgraded internals that outperform the factory unit.
Here’s what you get with KEMSO:
- High-Performance Output – KEMSO pumps support up to 200 liters per hour at 43 psi—roughly three times the flow of the stock pump, which flows only 60–80 LPH. That extra headroom means your engine never starves for fuel, even under hard acceleration or heavy loads.
- True OEM Replacement – KEMSO designs each pump to bolt into your Rhino 700 with zero modification. The kit includes the pump, gradient-density strainers, fuel hose, tank seal, Viton O-rings, wiring connector, and clamps—everything you need for a clean install.
- Lifetime Warranty – Every KEMSO pump carries a serialized body and a lifetime warranty. If it ever fails, KEMSO replaces it. That’s a level of protection no OEM or budget aftermarket brand can match.
- Ethanol and Gasoline Compatible – Modern U.S. fuel contains up to 15% ethanol, which destroys cheap pumps. KEMSO’s materials are engineered for both gasoline and E85, so you’re covered no matter what you run.
- Durable Construction – The pump body is machined from alloy steel, and the bypass valve is set at 125.8 psi—well above factory specs—for consistent pressure delivery under all conditions.
- USA-Based Support – KEMSO’s technical support team is based in the United States, so you get real help from qualified technicians if you run into any issues.
For the 2008 Yamaha Rhino 700, the recommended KEMSO part number is 13804 (listed for the YXR700F Rhino 700 FI 2008–2013). If you also own a Yamaha Raptor 700 or Grizzly 450, the KEMSO 13826 covers those models as well.
You can browse the full KEMSO catalog and order your pump directly at:
Final Thoughts
A failing fuel pump on your 2008 Yamaha Rhino 700 doesn’t have to ruin your riding season. The symptoms are clear, the replacement process is documented, and the parts are widely available. Whether you go OEM for absolute certainty, a budget kit to save money, or a high-performance KEMSO pump for better flow and a lifetime warranty, the fix is something you can do in an afternoon with basic tools.
If you want the best combination of performance, durability, and value, order a KEMSO fuel pump from their official site at https://www.kemsoracing.com/ —and get back on the trail with confidence.