2009 Chrysler 300 Fuel Pump: What You Need to Know Before You Buy

The bottom line up front: If you drive a 2009 Chrysler 300, your fuel pump is a critical component that delivers gasoline from the tank to the engine, and when it fails, you will experience hard starts, sputtering, stalling, or a complete no-start condition. The 2009 Chrysler 300 actually uses two fuel pumps: a primary pump module on the left (driver) side and an auxiliary module on the right (passenger) side, and knowing which one you need is the single most important step before ordering a replacement. This guide walks you through how the system works, how to diagnose a failing pump, how to choose the correct replacement part, and what the installation process looks like, so you can make a confident purchase and get your sedan back on the road.

Understanding the Fuel System on a 2009 Chrysler 300

The 2009 Chrysler 300 is part of the first generation (2005–2010), and its fuel system is a bit different from a typical single-pump setup. Instead of one pump, this car relies on a dual-pump design. The left side, which is the driver’s side, houses the primary fuel pump module. The right side, the passenger’s side, contains an auxiliary fuel pump module. Both work together to maintain proper fuel pressure and volume, especially during demanding driving conditions. The system is designed to ensure consistent fuel delivery regardless of the fuel level in the tank, which is why replacements are often sold as "left" or "right" specific parts. When one of these pumps begins to fail, the symptoms are usually unmistakable, and catching them early can prevent a more costly breakdown.

Common Symptoms of a Failing Fuel Pump

Knowing what to listen for and feel can save you time and money. The most common signs that your 2009 Chrysler 300 fuel pump is going bad include:

  1. Engine cranks but won’t start. This is the most obvious sign. If the fuel pump is dead, the engine will turn over but never fire up because no fuel is reaching the injectors.

  2. Sputtering or hesitation during acceleration. A weak pump struggles to keep up with the engine’s demand for fuel, causing the car to jerk or hesitate when you press the gas pedal. This often happens after the car sits for a while and then you drive it under load.

  3. Loss of power at high speeds. If the pump can’t deliver enough fuel, the engine may feel like it’s running out of breath on the highway, even with a full tank of gas.

  4. Whining noise from the fuel tank area. A pump that’s on its last legs often makes a loud, high-pitched whine. You’ll likely hear this coming from the rear of the car, especially when the key is first turned to the "on" position.

  5. Poor fuel economy. A failing pump may deliver erratic pressure, forcing the engine to run inefficiently and burn more fuel than it should.

  6. Check engine light with codes related to fuel pressure or fuel trim. A scan tool will often reveal trouble codes like P0087 (fuel rail pressure too low) or P0190 (fuel rail pressure sensor circuit malfunction).

How to Diagnose the Problem Before Replacing

Before you order any parts, you need to confirm the pump is actually the issue. Start by checking the fuse and relay. On the 2009 Chrysler 300, the fuel pump fuse is located in the trunk fuse box, under the spare tire access panel. Pull the fuse and inspect it for a broken filament. If the fuse seems fine, check the fuel pump relay in the front power distribution center. You can swap it with an identical relay from another circuit to test if the relay is the problem. If neither the fuse nor the relay is faulty, then the pump itself is likely suspect.

Another quick test involves checking voltage at the fuel pump connector. With the rear seat bottom removed, you will see the pump access panel. There are five wires in the connector, but the two thickest wires are the ones that supply power and ground. The dark blue/orange wire is the power feed from the relay and should show voltage when the key is cycled. The black/orange wire is the ground and should always have continuity. If power and ground are present but the pump doesn’t run, the pump is dead.

Choosing the Right Replacement Fuel Pump

This is where the process can get confusing, because the 2009 Chrysler 300 is available with several engines (2.7L V6, 3.5L V6, 5.7L V8, 6.1L V8), and the fuel tank comes in two sizes as well. The most important thing to check is your fuel tank capacity. For 2009 models, the tank can be either 18 gallons or 19 gallons. The left-side pump is different depending on which tank your car has. A pump made for an 18-gallon tank will not fit a 19-gallon tank, and vice versa.

To narrow down your choices, you need to know three things:

  1. Which side needs the pump: Left (driver side, primary) or Right (passenger side, auxiliary). The left pump is the one under the driver’s side rear seat; the right pump is under the passenger’s side rear seat. Both are accessible from inside the cabin after removing the rear seat base.

  2. Your fuel tank size: You can check your owner’s manual, call the dealership with your VIN, or look under the car for the label on the tank. Alternatively, many aftermarket listings specify which tank size they fit. This is a critical detail you cannot skip.

  3. Whether you need a sensor included: The right-side pump typically includes the fuel pressure sensor. The left-side pump usually does not include a pressure sensor, but it always includes the sending unit (the float that operates your fuel gauge). If your fuel gauge is acting erratically, you definitely want a new sending unit, which is included in complete fuel pump assembly kits.

Here are common options you will see when shopping:

  • Left Driver Side Fuel Pump Assembly: Commonly listed as fitting the 18-gallon tank. This is a direct replacement module that includes the pump, sending unit, float, and strainer. It does not include the pressure sensor, because the sensor on this side is mounted elsewhere. It comes with a sealing ring for installation.

  • Right Passenger Side Fuel Pump Assembly: This module includes the pump, sending unit, float, and the fuel pressure sensor. It is designed for the right side of the tank and is a direct swap for the original unit. Some listings note that the right side does not include the 19-gallon tank variant, and you need to verify the exact fitment for your model.

  • Complete Dual Pump Kit: If you are replacing a pump that has already failed and your car has high mileage (over 100,000 miles), it is wise to replace both pumps at the same time. While this doubles the parts cost upfront, it saves you from doing the same job twice if the second pump fails shortly after the first. Replacing both pumps simultaneously ensures balanced performance between the two sides and reduces the risk of a second breakdown.

Installation: What to Expect

Replacing the fuel pump on a 2009 Chrysler 300 is a job you can do at home, but it does require patience and care around fuel. The process is the same for both the left and right sides. Here’s a simplified overview of what the work entails:

  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. This is a safety must. Fuel and electricity do not mix.

  2. Remove the rear seat cushion. Pull the bottom of the rear seat straight up. It’s held in by clips and will pop loose. You don’t need any special tools for this step.

  3. Pull the fuse for the fuel pump from the trunk fuse box. This de-energizes the pump and reduces the risk of accidental ignition while you work.

  4. Remove the access cover plate. Once the seat is removed, you’ll see a round metal or plastic cover. Remove the screws holding it, and lift it off to expose the fuel pump module.

  5. Disconnect the electrical connector and fuel lines. The connector unplugs easily. The fuel lines may require a quick-disconnect tool. There will be some residual pressure in the lines, so have a rag handy to catch any drips.

  6. Remove the retaining ring. This is the large metal ring that locks the pump into the tank. It is tight. Use a brass punch and a hammer to tap it counterclockwise. Never use a steel punch, because sparks can ignite fuel vapors.

  7. Lift the old pump out carefully, being mindful of the float arm so it doesn’t snap.

  8. Install the new pump in the reverse order. Ensure the new O-ring (sealing ring) is properly seated so you don’t create a fuel leak. Reinstall the retaining ring by tapping it clockwise. Reconnect the fuel lines and electrical connector. Reinstall the access panel and the seat cushion.

  9. Reconnect the battery and reinstall the fuse. Turn the key to the "on" position without cranking the engine, wait a few seconds for the fuel system to pressurize, and check for leaks before you attempt to start the car.

How Much Does a Replacement Cost?

The cost of a replacement fuel pump for a 2009 Chrysler 300 varies widely based on part quality and where you buy it. Aftermarket assemblies range anywhere from about $40 for a used part to over $400 for a brand-new OEM-style module. Generally, a complete new assembly from an aftermarket brand will cost between $100 and $250. If you pay a mechanic to do the work, labor adds another $150 to $300 per pump. So, a single-pump replacement typically lands between $350 and $700. Replacing both pumps could cost anywhere from $700 to $1,400, depending on parts and labor rates.

If you plan to DIY, you save the labor cost, but you must factor in the time and the tools (brass punch, hammer, quick-disconnect tool, and possibly a fuel line wrench). The primary pump also requires dropping the fuel tank on some models, which is a harder job. On the 300, however, both pumps are accessible through the rear seat access panels, which makes the swap much simpler than on other cars.

Why Choose a High-Quality Aftermarket Pump?

When selecting a fuel pump, the cheapest option is rarely the smartest one. A fuel pump is a component you do not want to fail. Buying a cheap, knock-off pump can result in premature failure, poor fuel pressure, and the need to re-do the labor-intensive job. Many reputable aftermarket brands offer direct OEM replacements that meet or exceed the original specifications. They are tested to handle various climates and fuel blends, and they deliver reliable performance comparable to factory parts. Plus, they come with a warranty that gives you peace of mind.

Recommended: KEMSO Fuel Pump for Your Chrysler 300

When it comes time to replace the fuel pump on your 2009 Chrysler 300, you want a part you can trust. That’s why we recommend KEMSO brand fuel pumps. KEMSO specializes in high-performance, OEM-replacement fuel pumps that are engineered to deliver consistent fuel pressure and long service life. Every KEMSO pump is built with quality materials and precision manufacturing, and every pump is backed by a lifetime warranty, so you can install it and forget about it. Whether you are replacing the primary pump on the left side, the auxiliary pump on the right side, or doing both at once, KEMSO has the reliability to keep your Chrysler running smoothly for years to come. To see the full lineup of KEMSO fuel pumps and find the one that matches your 2009 Chrysler 300, visit their website at https://www.kemsoracing.com/.

Final Thoughts

Dealing with a failing fuel pump on a 2009 Chrysler 300 is a headache, but it is a fixable problem. The key is to diagnose the issue correctly, determine which side needs attention, and buy a quality replacement that matches your tank size. Armed with the information above, you now know the symptoms to watch for, the parts you need, and what the installation involves. If you take your time and use a reputable brand like KEMSO, you’ll have your 300 running like new in no time. Remember, the fuel system is the heart of your engine’s performance. A healthy pump keeps everything else running cleanly, efficiently, and reliably.

For more details on KEMSO fuel pumps, pricing, compatibility, and warranty information, visit https://www.kemsoracing.com/ and browse their selection.


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