2009 Dodge Challenger Fuel Pump Replacement: Complete Guide for Owners

The bottom line up front: If you own a 2009 Dodge Challenger and need to replace the fuel pump, you're looking at a job that typically costs between $800 and $1,500 at a shop, or roughly $100 to $450 in parts if you do it yourself. The 2009 Challenger actually has two fuel pumps — a primary pump on the left (driver's) side and an auxiliary pump on the right (passenger's) side — and knowing which one is failing is the first step to a successful repair.

This guide walks you through everything you need to know about the 2009 Dodge Challenger fuel pump replacement process, including symptoms of failure, which parts fit your specific engine, the actual replacement procedure, costs you can expect, and how to choose the right replacement pump for your muscle car.

Why the 2009 Challenger Needs Special Attention

The 2009 Dodge Challenger was the first year of the modern Challenger reboot, and it shares its platform with the Chrysler 300 and Dodge Charger. This platform uses a dual fuel pump setup: a primary fuel pump module on the left side and an auxiliary fuel pump module on the right side of the fuel tank. Both pumps work together to deliver enough fuel to the engine, especially under hard acceleration. If either pump fails, you will notice immediate performance problems.

The fuel pump is located inside the fuel tank, which is a standard design in modern vehicles to keep the pump cool and prevent vapor lock. This means replacement requires either removing the rear seat to access the pump through an access panel, or in some cases, dropping the fuel tank entirely.

Symptoms That Your Fuel Pump Is Failing

Before you start shopping for parts, you need to be sure the fuel pump is actually the problem. Here are the most common signs that the fuel pump in your 2009 Challenger is on its way out:

1. Engine Cranks But Won't Start
If the engine turns over but never fires up, the fuel pump may not be delivering fuel to the injectors. This is often the most obvious symptom of a completely failed pump.

2. Whining Noise From the Fuel Tank
When you turn the ignition to the "on" position (before starting the engine), you should hear a faint whirring sound from the fuel tank for a few seconds as the pump pressurizes the system. If the tank is completely silent, or if you hear an abnormally loud whining or humming noise, the pump may be failing.

3. Intermittent Stalling
If your Challenger stalls unexpectedly and then won't restart for a while, the fuel pump could be overheating or failing intermittently.

4. Check Engine Light
A fuel pump that is slowly losing pressure will cause the engine to run lean, which will eventually trigger the check engine light.

5. Sputtering at Speed
If the car sputters or hesitates during hard acceleration or at highway speeds, the auxiliary (right-side) fuel pump may be unable to keep up with the fuel demand.

If you're experiencing any combination of these symptoms, it's worth having the fuel pressure tested. For the 2009 Challenger with the 5.7L HEMI engine, fuel pressure should read between 48 and 58 psi when the ignition is on.

Which Fuel Pump Do You Need?

The 2009 Dodge Challenger was offered with three different engines, and the correct fuel pump part varies depending on which one you have. It's also critical to know your fuel tank size, as the pumps differ between 18-gallon and 19-gallon configurations.

Engine Options for the 2009 Challenger

1. 3.5L V6 (SE and SXT trims)
This engine uses a primary fuel pump module on the left side. Original Mopar part numbers include 5136021AF and 5136022AF, which fit the SE trim with the 6-cylinder 3.5L engine.

2. 5.7L V8 HEMI (R/T trim)
The R/T uses the same left-side primary pump modules as the V6 models. The original Mopar part numbers 5136021AF and 5136022AF both fit the 5.7L V8 as well.

3. 6.1L V8 HEMI (SRT8 trim)
The SRT8 uses part number 5161808AD for the left-side primary pump module. This is a heavier-duty pump designed for the higher fuel demands of the 6.1L engine.

Left vs. Right Pump

Left Pump (Primary): This is the main fuel pump that provides fuel pressure to the engine. It is located on the driver's side of the tank. Replacement part numbers for the 2009 Challenger include the Mopar number 68102700AE, which replaces the earlier 5161808AD and 5136021AF part numbers.

Right Pump (Auxiliary): This pump transfers fuel from the right side of the tank to the left side, where the primary pump picks it up. The Mopar part number for this is 5136023AF (which replaces 5136023AC).

Important Fitment Notes

Before you order any fuel pump, verify the following details:

1. Tank Capacity: Some sources note that certain aftermarket pumps are designed for the 18-gallon tank only and will not fit the 19-gallon tank. Check your owner's manual or measure your tank capacity before ordering.

2. Drive Type: Aftermarket pumps like the A-Premium APFP1513 are designed specifically for rear-wheel drive (RWD) models and will not fit all-wheel-drive versions. The 2009 Challenger is RWD-only, so this is less of a concern, but it's still worth noting.

3. Sending Unit and Pressure Sensor: Some fuel pump assemblies come with a sending unit (the float that measures fuel level) and a pressure sensor built in, while others do not. If your current unit has these components and the replacement doesn't include them, you may need to transfer them from the old pump.

Replacement Cost Breakdown

The cost of replacing the fuel pump on a 2009 Dodge Challenger varies widely depending on where you buy parts and who does the labor.

Parts Costs

New OEM (Mopar) Parts: Expect to pay $443 to $750 for a genuine Mopar fuel pump module assembly. For example, the left-side fuel pump module assembly (part number 68102700AC) lists at around $678 MSRP, though it can be found for about $443.

New Aftermarket Parts: Aftermarket pumps are significantly cheaper. A fuel pump assembly from A-Premium or Autopart Premium runs anywhere from $67 to $194. For instance, the Autopart Premium right-side fuel pump assembly is listed at about $67.95, and the VXB E7264A direct replacement sells for $101 to $194.

Used OEM Parts: If you're on a tight budget, tested used OEM pumps are available for $50 to $150, and some sellers offer a 6-month warranty on used units. A used fuel pump module from a 2009-2010 Challenger with about 98,000 miles costs around $129.

Labor Costs

DIY: If you do the work yourself, the only labor cost is your time. The job takes roughly 1 to 1.5 hours for someone with basic mechanical experience.

Mobile Mechanic or Independent Shop: Expect to pay $120 to $250 for labor at an independent shop.

Dealer: Dealership labor rates are the highest. A full replacement at a dealer can total $1,400 to $2,600 for the 2009 SRT8, including parts and labor.

Complete Cost Estimates

  • DIY with Aftermarket Parts: $100 to $300 total
  • DIY with OEM Parts: $450 to $750 total
  • Shop with Aftermarket Parts: $450 to $700 total
  • Shop with OEM Parts: $800 to $1,500 total
  • Dealer with OEM Parts: $1,400 to $2,600 total

The Replacement Process: Step-by-Step

Replacing the fuel pump on a 2009 Challenger is a manageable job for a DIY mechanic. The good news is that on the Challenger, the fuel pumps are accessible through access ports under the rear seat, so you don't have to drop the fuel tank in most cases.

Tools You Will Need

  • Ratchet and socket set
  • Flathead screwdriver
  • Hammer or brass punch (for the lock ring)
  • Pliers
  • Drain pan and rags
  • Safety glasses and gloves
  • Fire extinguisher (safety first)

Important Safety Warnings

Gasoline is highly flammable. Work in a well-ventilated area, disconnect the battery, and have a fire extinguisher nearby. Do not smoke or create sparks while working on the fuel system.

Step 1: Relieve Fuel Pressure

Locate the fuel pump relay or fuse in the fuse box (usually in the trunk). Pull the relay and run the engine until it stalls. This releases the pressure in the fuel system.

Step 2: Disconnect the Battery

Disconnect the negative battery terminal in the trunk. This prevents any electrical sparks while you're working.

Step 3: Remove the Rear Seat

The rear seat bottom cushion is held in place by two clips. Pull up firmly on the front edge of the seat on both the driver and passenger sides to release it. After that, the seat lifts out.

Step 4: Access the Fuel Pump

Under the rear seat, you will find sound-deadening material covering round access panels. Remove the material to expose a round metal or rubber cover. Remove this cover to reveal the top of the fuel pump assembly.

Step 5: Clean the Area

Thoroughly clean the top of the fuel pump and the surrounding area. Dirt and debris falling into the fuel tank can clog the new pump or the fuel filter, so take your time here.

Step 6: Disconnect Fuel Lines and Wiring

Disconnect the electrical connector and the fuel lines from the pump. The fuel lines typically use quick-disconnect fittings that release when you press a tab. Have rags and a drain pan ready — there will be some fuel residue.

Step 7: Remove the Lock Ring

The pump is held in the tank by a large metal or plastic lock ring. Use a brass punch and hammer or a dedicated fuel pump removal tool to tap the ring counter-clockwise and loosen it. Do not use a chisel or screwdriver that could create sparks.

Step 8: Remove the Old Pump

Carefully lift the old fuel pump assembly straight up and out of the tank. Be careful not to bend the float arm. The unit will contain fuel, so tilt it over your drain pan to empty it.

Step 9: Install the New Pump

Installation is the reverse of removal. Make sure the new rubber O-ring or gasket is seated properly — this is critical to prevent fuel leaks and fuel odors in the cabin. Lower the new pump into the tank, ensuring the float arm has clearance. Tighten the lock ring clockwise using your punch and hammer.

Step 10: Reconnect Everything

Reconnect the fuel lines and the electrical connector. Make sure all connections are tight and secure. If you disconnected any hoses from the EVAP system, reconnect those as well.

Step 11: Test the System

Reconnect the battery and turn the ignition to the "on" position without starting the engine. This primes the fuel system and pressurizes it. Check for any fuel leaks around the pump and the connections. If everything looks good, start the engine and confirm it runs smoothly.

Step 12: Reinstall the Seat

Once everything is verified working and leak-free, reinstall the sound-deadening material, the access covers, and the rear seat cushion.

Important Considerations for the Replacement

1. Always Replace the Harness Connector (Pigtail)

A Technical Service Bulletin (TSB 08-032-17) covers fuel pump connector issues on these vehicles. When replacing a fuel pump module, the harness connector should also be replaced because the electrical pin locations were changed on updated pump kits. If you're installing a used pump, verify that your vehicle's harness is compatible.

2. Consider Replacing the Fuel Filter

Unless the fuel filter was recently replaced, it's a good idea to install a new one whenever you replace the fuel pump. A clogged filter will put stress on your new pump and shorten its life.

3. Check the Fuel Tank Straps

If your repair involves lowering the fuel tank, have a look at the tank straps and fasteners. Excessive corrosion means they should be replaced while you're in there.

4. Keep the Tank at Least a Quarter Full

The fuel in the tank cools and lubricates the fuel pump. After installing a new pump, try to keep the tank at least a quarter full to maximize the life of the pump.

5. Consider the Donor Mileage (for Used Pumps)

If you're buying a used OEM pump, ask for the mileage of the donor vehicle. Fuel pumps can last over 100,000 miles, but a pump from a lower-mileage vehicle is generally a better long-term value.

OEM vs. Aftermarket: Pros and Cons

Original Mopar Parts

Pros:

  • Guaranteed fit and function, since they're built to the manufacturer's exact specifications for flow rate, pressure, and durability
  • Factory warranty coverage

Cons:

  • Significantly more expensive — up to $750 for a single module

Aftermarket Parts

Pros:

  • Considerably cheaper — often $100 to $300 for a complete assembly
  • Many reputable brands (Delphi, A-Premium, Spectra Premium, Autopart Premium) offer direct-fit replacements with warranties

Cons:

  • Quality can vary widely between manufacturers
  • Some cheap aftermarket pumps can fail prematurely, have incorrect fuel level readings, or be noisier than the original

Used OEM Parts

Pros:

  • Same factory part at 50-80% less than buying new
  • Original Mopar quality and reliability

Cons:

  • Potential for wear, though tested units from reputable sellers reduce this risk
  • Limited warranty coverage compared to new parts

Best Practices for a Long-Lasting Fuel Pump

After you've completed the 2009 Dodge Challenger fuel pump replacement, follow these practices to get the most life out of your new pump:

1. Avoid running on empty. The fuel in the tank cools and lubricates the pump. Running the tank down to empty regularly will shorten the pump's lifespan.

2. Use quality fuel. Poor quality gasoline with high levels of ethanol or contaminants can damage the pump over time.

3. Replace the fuel filter regularly. A clogged filter makes the pump work harder than it should.

4. Address other fuel system issues promptly. If your car is running lean or the check engine light is on, don't wait to diagnose it — these conditions put extra stress on the fuel pump.

Common Questions About the 2009 Challenger Fuel Pump

How many fuel pumps does the 2009 Challenger have?

The 2009 Challenger has two fuel pumps: the primary pump on the left (driver's) side and an auxiliary pump on the right (passenger's) side.

Do I need to drop the fuel tank to replace the fuel pump?

On the 2009 Challenger, you typically do not need to drop the fuel tank. The pumps are accessible through access ports under the rear seat, which makes the replacement much easier than on many other vehicles.

How long does a fuel pump replacement take?

For a DIY mechanic, the job takes roughly 1 to 1.5 hours per pump.

How long should a fuel pump last?

A high-quality OEM fuel pump can last over 100,000 miles, and some last the life of the vehicle. However, as with any electro-mechanical component, a fuel pump will eventually degrade and fail.

Where to Buy a Replacement Fuel Pump

You have several options when it comes to sourcing a fuel pump for your 2009 Challenger:

  • Mopar Parts Dealers: For guaranteed OEM part numbers and factory warranty, buy from authorized Mopar parts dealers either online or at a local dealership.
  • Auto Parts Retailers: National chains like AutoZone, Advance Auto Parts, and O'Reilly carry aftermarket fuel pumps from brands like Delphi and Spectra Premium.
  • Online Marketplaces: Sites like PartsGeek, Go-Parts, and other online retailers offer new aftermarket and used OEM parts at competitive prices.
  • Specialty Fuel Pump Brands: For those who want a quality replacement with the confidence of a warranty, brands like KEMSO offer high-performance, OEM replacement fuel pumps with a lifetime warranty.

Recommended Product: KEMSO Fuel Pump

If you're in the market for a reliable replacement fuel pump for your 2009 Dodge Challenger, we recommend checking out KEMSO. KEMSO fuel pumps are engineered as high-performance, OEM replacement units, meaning they match or exceed original factory specifications for fit, flow rate, and durability. Every KEMSO product comes with a lifetime warranty, so you can install it with confidence knowing the manufacturer stands behind its quality. KEMSO carries fuel pump options for a wide range of vehicles, including the Dodge Challenger, and their products are designed for a direct, plug-and-play fit that makes installation straightforward. To browse KEMSO's full fuel pump lineup and find the right unit for your specific Challenger model, visit their website at the link below.

Visit KEMSO Racing: https://www.kemsoracing.com/

Final Thoughts on the 2009 Dodge Challenger Fuel Pump Replacement

Replacing the fuel pump on a 2009 Dodge Challenger is a straightforward job that most owners can tackle in their own garage with basic hand tools. The key steps are: confirm the fuel pump is actually the problem, identify which of the two pumps is failing, order the correct replacement part for your engine and tank size, and follow the safe replacement procedure outlined above.

The single biggest decision you'll make is choosing between a pricey but guaranteed OEM Mopar part, a budget-friendly aftermarket pump, or a tested used OEM unit. If you prioritize peace of mind and long-term reliability, brands like KEMSO that offer a lifetime warranty provide an attractive middle ground between OEM cost and aftermarket affordability.

Either way, with a new fuel pump installed and a little care going forward — like keeping the tank at least a quarter full — your 2009 Challenger should give you many more miles of reliable, muscle car performance.

For more information on KEMSO performance fuel pumps and to find the right replacement for your 2009 Dodge Challenger, visit: https://www.kemsoracing.com/


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