2009 F150 Fuel Pump Fuse: Location, Symptoms, and How to Fix It
The bottom line up front: If your 2009 Ford F-150 cranks but won't start, stalls without warning, or you smell burnt plastic under the hood, the fuel pump fuse is likely your culprit. On the 2009-2014 F-150 (sometimes called the "01 F150" generation), the fuel pump fuse is a 20-amp mini-blade fuse located in the under-hood Power Distribution Box on the driver's side near the battery. It is labeled as Fuse 27. This fuse has a known overheating problem that Ford addressed with a Technical Service Bulletin (TSB 15-0137), and the permanent fix is a fuse relocation kit that moves the circuit to a more robust cavity.
Where Is the 2009 F150 Fuel Pump Fuse Located?
The 2009 F-150 has two fuse boxes: one inside the cabin under the dashboard, and one under the hood. The fuel pump fuse is not in the interior panel. It lives in the engine bay.
Follow these steps to find it:
- Open the hood and look on the driver's side, close to the battery.
- You will see a black plastic box—this is the Power Distribution Box (also called the Battery Junction Box).
- Press the release tabs on the sides of the cover and lift it off.
- On the underside of the cover, there is a diagram that shows fuse positions and labels.
- Look for Fuse 27 or the label "Fuel Pump." On most 2009-2014 models, this is a yellow 20-amp mini-blade fuse.
The fuse sits in a cavity that is part of the fuel pump relay circuit. On some models, the relay and fuse work together to send power to the fuel pump driver module, which then controls the pump inside the tank.
What Does Fuse 27 Do?
Fuse 27 supplies power to the fuel pump circuit. When you turn the ignition key to the "ON" position (without cranking), the fuel pump should prime for about 2 to 3 seconds. You can usually hear a faint humming sound coming from the fuel tank area. If that fuse is blown or melted, the pump receives no power, and the engine will crank but never fire up.
This fuse also powers the fuel injectors and the fuel pump driver module on many configurations, which means a failure here can cause a complete no-start condition.
Symptoms of a Blown or Failed 2009 F150 Fuel Pump Fuse
When Fuse 27 fails, you will notice one or more of the following:
1. Engine Cranks But Will Not Start
This is the most common symptom. The starter motor spins the engine, but there is no fuel pressure, so the engine never catches.
2. No Fuel Pump Prime Sound
Turn the key to "ON" and listen near the fuel tank. If you hear nothing for the first 2-3 seconds, the fuel pump is not receiving power.
3. Intermittent Stalling
Some owners report the truck stalls while driving, then restarts after a few minutes. This happens when the fuse cavity overheats, loses contact, then cools down and works again.
4. Burnt Plastic Smell
A melting fuse cavity often produces a noticeable burnt odor under the hood.
5. Melted or Discolored Fuse Cavity
Open the fuse box and inspect Fuse 27. If the plastic around the fuse looks brown, melted, or deformed, you have the classic overheating problem.
6. Diagnostic Trouble Codes
You may see codes like P0230, P0231, or P0232 (fuel pump primary circuit codes), or P0087 (fuel rail pressure too low).
Why Does the 2009 F150 Fuel Pump Fuse Keep Blowing or Melting?
Ford issued Technical Service Bulletin (TSB) 15-0137 to address a known flaw in the 2009-2014 F-150 and 2010-2014 Raptor. The original fuse location uses a small mini-blade fuse that carries 20 amps of current. Under normal load, that amount of current flowing through such a small fuse generates heat. Over time, the cavity can overheat, causing the plastic to crack or melt. When that happens, the electrical contact is lost, and the truck dies—even if the fuse itself is not blown.
Common causes of a blown fuse include:
1. Short Circuit in the Fuel Pump Wiring
Wires running from the fuse box to the fuel pump can rub against the chassis or frame rail, wearing through the insulation and causing a ground fault. This is common on F-150s where the harness passes near metal brackets.
2. Faulty Fuel Pump Relay
A failing relay can create resistance and heat, which in turn stresses the fuse. Some experts recommend replacing both the fuse and the relay together, since carbon buildup on relay contacts can cause repeated fuse failures.
3. Weak Connections in the Fuse Box
Loose or corroded terminals in the fuse cavity increase resistance, which generates heat and eventually melts the plastic.
4. Failing Fuel Pump
As the fuel pump ages, it draws more current. That extra load pushes the fuse closer to its limit and can cause thermal failure over time.
How to Check the 2009 F150 Fuel Pump Fuse
Checking and replacing the fuse is a straightforward job. Here is what you need to do:
Step 1: Remove the fuse
Use the fuse puller tool stored inside the fuse box cover, or a pair of needle-nose pliers. Gently pull Fuse 27 straight out.
Step 2: Inspect the fuse visually
Look through the clear plastic top. You should see a continuous metal strip connecting the two prongs. If the strip is broken, melted, or has a black mark, the fuse is blown.
Step 3: Test with a multimeter (optional)
If you cannot see damage, set your multimeter to the continuity setting. Touch one probe to each prong. A beep means the fuse is good. No beep means it is blown.
Step 4: Check the fuse cavity
Before reinstalling a new fuse, inspect the cavity in the fuse box. Look for discoloration, melting, or loose fit. If the cavity looks damaged, do not just replace the fuse—you need the relocation kit.
Step 5: Replace the fuse
If the cavity looks healthy and the fuse is blown, install a new 20-amp mini-blade fuse of the same type. Do not use a higher amp fuse, as this can cause wiring damage or a fire.
What to Do If the Fuse Keeps Blowing
If you replace Fuse 27 and it blows again right away or within a few days, do not keep replacing fuses. You have a deeper problem. Here is what to check next:
1. Inspect the wiring harness
Look at the wires running from the fuse box down toward the frame rail and back to the fuel tank. Check for rubbed insulation, bare copper, or pinched wires.
2. Test the fuel pump relay
Find the fuel pump relay in the same Power Distribution Box. Swap it with another relay of the same part number in the box (such as the horn or blower relay), then try starting the truck. If it starts, the relay is weak and needs replacement.
3. Check fuel pressure
If the fuse and relay are both fine, test fuel pressure at the fuel rail. No pressure means the pump itself may be failing.
4. Consider the Fuse 27 relocation kit
This is the permanent fix recommended by Ford. The relocation kit moves the fuel pump fuse from the small micro-blade cavity to a larger cavity in the same box, using upgraded terminals and a more robust fuse type. It eliminates the heat problem at the source.
The Fuse 27 Relocation Kit: What You Need to Know
Ford's fix for the melting fuse issue is a relocation kit available through dealers. The part number is EL3Z-14293-A. It includes a pre-terminated extension harness, heat-shrink tubing, an updated fuse, and step-by-step instructions.
Installation takes about 1-2 hours with basic hand tools: a pick/de-pin tool, crimper, heat shrink, and sockets.
What the kit does:
- Moves the fuel pump circuit from the small 20-amp mini-fuse location to a larger cavity that can handle the current draw.
- Uses better terminals that resist heat buildup.
- Prevents the fuel pump from losing power due to a melted fuse cavity.
Many owners choose to install this kit preventively, even if their fuse looks fine, because the failure is unpredictable and can leave you stranded.
How to Prevent Future Fuel Pump Fuse Problems
1. Install the relocation kit
This is the single best prevention. It addresses the root cause of the overheating issue.
2. Replace the fuel pump relay proactively
If your truck is high mileage (over 100,000 miles), consider replacing the fuel pump relay when you install the relocation kit. A worn relay can create resistance and heat that stresses the entire circuit.
3. Keep the fuse box clean
Moisture and dirt accelerate corrosion in fuse cavities. Periodically open the Power Distribution Box and check for water intrusion or green corrosion on terminals.
4. Monitor your fuel pump's health
If the pump is getting old, it draws more current. Replacing the pump before it fails reduces stress on the electrical circuit.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I drive my 2009 F-150 with a blown fuel pump fuse?
No. The truck will not start, and if it stalls while driving, it will leave you stranded. Replace the fuse or install the relocation kit before driving.
Is the fuel pump fuse the same on all 2009-2014 F-150s?
Yes, Fuse 27 in the under-hood Power Distribution Box is the fuel pump fuse across this generation, including the Raptor.
How much does it cost to fix the fuel pump fuse problem?
A replacement fuse costs under $5. The relocation kit is around $20-$30 from a dealer or aftermarket supplier. If you have a shop install it, expect about one hour of labor.
Will a blown fuse trigger the check engine light?
Yes, in many cases. The computer detects a loss of fuel pressure and sets a trouble code, which turns on the check engine light.
What is the difference between the fuel pump fuse and the fuel pump relay?
The fuse protects the circuit from overcurrent. The relay is a switch that controls power delivery to the pump. A blown fuse cuts all power; a bad relay may cause intermittent operation or no operation at all.
Conclusion
A 2009 F150 fuel pump fuse problem is one of the most common electrical failures on this generation of trucks. The good news is that it is easy to diagnose, inexpensive to fix, and completely preventable with the right parts. Start by checking Fuse 27 in the under-hood fuse box. If the fuse is blown, replace it with a 20-amp mini-blade fuse. If the cavity is melted or the fuse keeps failing, install Ford's relocation kit to eliminate the problem for good. And if you suspect the fuel pump itself is weak, replacing it before it fails will save you from being stranded on the road.
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