2009 F150 Fuel Pump Fuse Location: The Complete Owner’s Guide to Finding, Testing, and Fixing It

The bottom line up front: On a 2009 Ford F-150, the fuel pump fuse is located in the under-hood Power Distribution Box (also called the Battery Junction Box), not inside the cabin. It’s a 20-amp mini-blade fuse labeled as Fuse 27, positioned on the driver’s side near the battery. If your truck cranks but won’t start, this is one of the first things you should check.

This guide walks you through exactly where the fuse sits, how to test it, why it fails, and what to do when it keeps blowing. We’ll also cover the well-known Fuse 27 melting issue that affects many 2009–2014 F-150s, and how a simple relocation kit can save you from being stranded.

Table of Contents

  • Where Is the 2009 F150 Fuel Pump Fuse Located?
  • Step-by-Step: How to Find Fuse 27 Under the Hood
  • How to Check and Test the Fuel Pump Fuse
  • What Happens When the Fuel Pump Fuse Blows
  • Why the Fuse 27 Melts (The Known Ford Issue)
  • How to Fix a Melted Fuse 27 (Relocation Kit)
  • What to Do If the Fuse Keeps Blowing
  • 2009 F150 Fuel Pump Relay: What You Should Know
  • Recommended: KEMSO High-Performance Fuel Pump
  • Final Thoughts

Where Is the 2009 F150 Fuel Pump Fuse Located?

The 2009 F-150 has two fuse boxes: one inside the passenger compartment under the dashboard, and one under the hood called the Power Distribution Box (PDB) or Battery Junction Box (BJB). The fuel pump fuse is not in the interior fuse panel. It lives in the under-hood box.

Here’s the quick answer:

  • Box: Power Distribution Box / Battery Junction Box (under the hood)
  • Side: Driver’s side, near the battery
  • Fuse number: Fuse 27
  • Fuse type: 20-amp mini-blade fuse (usually yellow or clear with “20” printed on top)
  • Circuit protected: Fuel pump relay and fuel pump driver module power

According to fuse box diagrams for the 2009 model year, fuse 27 in the engine compartment is a 20A fuse that feeds the fuel pump relay and related fuel system circuits. Several owner reports confirm that checking Fuse 27 is the first step when a 2009 F-150 cranks but won’t start.

Step-by-Step: How to Find Fuse 27 Under the Hood

Follow these steps to locate the fuel pump fuse on your 2009 F-150:

  1. Open the hood and make sure the engine is off.
  2. Look on the driver’s side of the engine bay, near the battery. You’ll see a black plastic box with a cover. That’s the Power Distribution Box.
  3. Press the release tabs on the sides of the cover and lift it off. Some covers have clips on the front and back—check all sides.
  4. Read the diagram on the underside of the fuse box cover. It shows the position and amperage rating for each fuse. Look for “Fuse 27” or the label “Fuel Pump”.
  5. Locate fuse 27—it should be a 20A mini-blade fuse, typically yellow. On some 2009 models it may be the same position but labeled slightly differently, so always verify with the diagram.

If you can’t find the diagram or it’s worn out, refer to your owner’s manual. The 2009 F-150 fuse box layout is also widely available online.

How to Check and Test the Fuel Pump Fuse

Checking the fuse takes about two minutes and requires no special skills. Here’s how:

Step 1: Remove the fuse.
Use the fuse puller tool stored inside the fuse box lid, or a pair of needle-nose pliers. Gently pull the fuse straight out. Avoid yanking at an angle—this can bend the terminals.

Step 2: Inspect the fuse visually.
Look through the clear plastic top. You should see a continuous metal strip connecting the two prongs. If the strip is broken, melted, or has a black burn mark, the fuse is blown and needs replacement.

Step 3: Test with a multimeter (if visual inspection isn’t clear).
Set the multimeter to the continuity or resistance setting. Touch one probe to each prong of the fuse. If you hear a beep or see a near-zero reading, the fuse is good. No beep means it’s blown.

Step 4: Replace if necessary.
Always replace a blown fuse with another 20-amp mini-blade fuse of the same type. Never use a higher amperage fuse—this can cause wiring damage or even a fire.

Pro tip: If the fuse looks fine but the truck still won’t start, don’t stop there. The fuse cavity itself may be melted (see the next section on the known Fuse 27 issue).

What Happens When the Fuel Pump Fuse Blows

When the fuel pump fuse blows, the fuel pump loses power completely. The engine will crank over (the starter works fine) but it will not fire up because no fuel reaches the injectors. Here are the most common symptoms:

  1. Engine cranks but won’t start. This is the #1 symptom. The starter motor turns the engine, but the engine never catches.
  2. No fuel pump prime sound. Turn the key to the ON position (without starting). You should hear a faint hum from the fuel pump for 2–3 seconds. If you hear nothing, the fuse or the pump itself is dead.
  3. No fuel pressure. If you check the fuel rail with a pressure gauge, it will read zero when the key is turned ON.
  4. Check engine light may come on. The computer detects low fuel rail pressure and may set trouble codes like P0087 (Fuel Rail Pressure Too Low) or P0231 (Fuel Pump Secondary Circuit Low). Other related codes include P0230 and P0232.

If any of these symptoms match your situation, start by checking Fuse 27. It’s the cheapest and easiest thing to rule out.

Why the Fuse 27 Melts (The Known Ford Issue)

Here’s something every 2009 F-150 owner should know. Ford issued Technical Service Bulletin (TSB) 15-0137 for 2009–2014 F-150s (and 2010–2014 Raptors) regarding a known problem with the fuel pump fuse.

The problem: The factory fuse cavity for Fuse 27 can overheat under load. The fuse itself is a small micro-blade fuse rated at 20 amps. That’s a lot of current flowing through very small contacts. Over time, the plastic housing around the fuse can crack, discolor, or melt—leaving the circuit open even though the fuse hasn’t blown.

Common symptoms of Fuse 27 meltdown:

  • Crank/no-start condition
  • Intermittent stalling while driving
  • Hard starting
  • No fuel pump prime sound
  • Melted or discolored fuse cavity
  • Loose fuse fit in the socket
  • Burnt plastic smell from the engine bay
  • Trouble codes P0230, P0231, or P0232

How to check for this issue:

  • Open the Power Distribution Box and locate Fuse 27.
  • Look for any signs of heat damage around the fuse cavity—discoloration, melting, or a loose fit when you wiggle the fuse.
  • If the cavity looks burned or deformed, don’t just replace the fuse. The underlying connection is damaged.

This is a widespread, well-documented issue. Many owners have reported being stranded by a truck that suddenly wouldn’t start, only to find Fuse 27 melted in the box.

How to Fix a Melted Fuse 27 (Relocation Kit)

The good news is there’s a permanent fix. Ford and several aftermarket brands sell a Fuse 27 relocation kit that moves the fuel pump circuit to a different fuse position in the same box—one that uses a larger, more robust fuse that can handle the current without overheating.

What you get in the kit:

  • A pre-terminated extension harness
  • An upgraded fuse (larger style, typically a J-case or maxi fuse)
  • Improved terminals designed to handle the amperage demand
  • Step-by-step installation instructions

Why it works: The relocated fuse uses a different cavity in the Power Distribution Box that’s designed for higher current. This eliminates the weak point in the factory design and prevents future meltdowns.

Installation time: About 1–2 hours with basic hand tools (pick tool, crimper, heat shrink, sockets). It’s a straightforward job for a DIYer with medium experience.

Where to get one:

  • Any Ford dealership can order the factory relocation kit. Some owners report dealers charging about an hour of labor for installation, but the kit itself is inexpensive.
  • The factory part number is reportedly EL3Z-14293-A.
  • Aftermarket versions are also available online for around $20.

If you own a 2009–2014 F-150, installing this kit is highly recommended even if your fuse currently looks fine. It’s cheap insurance against a sudden no-start on a hot day or during heavy load.

What to Do If the Fuse Keeps Blowing

If you replace Fuse 27 and it blows again immediately, or within a few days, you have a deeper issue. Do not keep replacing the fuse without finding the root cause. Here are the most common culprits:

1. Short circuit in the fuel pump wiring.
The wires running from the fuse box to the fuel pump can rub against the chassis or frame rail. Over time, this wears through the insulation and causes a short to ground. This is very common on F-150s where the wiring passes near the frame rail.

2. Faulty fuel pump relay.
The fuel pump relay is an electronic switch that controls power to the pump. If the relay contacts get carbon buildup (from normal wear), they create resistance and heat. This extra load can blow the fuse. Replacing both the fuse and the relay together is often the fix.

3. Failing fuel pump motor.
If the pump itself is drawing too much current—due to age, wear, or debris in the tank—it can overload the fuse circuit. In this case, the pump needs replacement.

4. Melted fuse cavity.
As discussed above, if the fuse box socket itself is damaged, it will continue to cause problems even with a new fuse. The relocation kit is the proper fix.

Troubleshooting steps:

  • If the fuse is good, swap the fuel pump relay with another relay in the same box that has the same size and label. If the truck starts, you’ve found the problem—buy a new relay.
  • If the fuse is good and swapping the relay doesn’t help, check the wiring. Look for chafed, pinched, or melted wires between the fuse box and the fuel pump.
  • If everything else checks out, have the fuel pump tested. A pump drawing too many amps will keep blowing fuses.

One owner report notes that replacing both the fuse and the relay together solved a recurring Fuse 27 failure that had persisted for months. Another mentioned that after repeated fuse failures, Ford ultimately traced the problem to a melted fuse cavity and the truck never had the issue again after the repair.

2009 F150 Fuel Pump Relay: What You Should Know

While the fuse gets most of the attention, the fuel pump relay is also part of the starting puzzle. On the 2009 F-150, the fuel pump relay is located in the same Power Distribution Box under the hood.

  • Relay label: “Fuel Pump” (may also be labeled as relay #8 in some diagrams)
  • Location: Same under-hood box, driver’s side near battery
  • Function: Supplies power to the fuel pump when the ignition is ON

How to test the relay:

  1. Find the relay in the fuse box. It should be clearly marked on the cover diagram.
  2. Swap it with another relay in the same box that has the same part number and amperage rating (e.g., the blower motor relay or similar).
  3. Turn the key to ON and listen for the fuel pump prime sound. If the pump runs, the relay was bad.

If the relay is bad, replace it. If the relay and fuse are both good, the problem may be in the fuel pump driver module or the pump itself.

Recommended: KEMSO High-Performance Fuel Pump

If your 2009 F-150 fuel pump turns out to be the culprit—whether it’s drawing too much current, making noise, or failing to deliver fuel—you need a reliable replacement. KEMSO offers high-performance fuel pumps that are designed as OEM replacement units, meaning they match the factory fit and performance while often exceeding it in durability.

Why choose KEMSO?

  • High-performance construction: KEMSO fuel pumps are built to handle the demands of daily driving and heavy use. They deliver consistent fuel pressure for reliable starting and smooth running.
  • OEM replacement fit: No need to search for adapter kits or worry about poor fitment. KEMSO pumps are designed as direct replacements for popular applications.
  • Lifetime warranty: KEMSO backs every fuel pump with a lifetime warranty. If your KEMSO pump ever fails due to a manufacturing defect, you get a replacement at no cost. That’s rare in the automotive parts industry and gives you total peace of mind.
  • Affordable pricing: Most KEMSO fuel pumps are priced at a reasonable $79.98, which is often less than half the cost of dealer parts.
  • Broad coverage: KEMSO offers fuel pumps for hundreds of models, including cars, trucks, motorcycles, ATVs, UTVs, and personal watercraft.

If you need a new fuel pump for your Ford F-150 or any other vehicle, visit KEMSO Racing at https://www.kemsoracing.com/ to see their full catalog. Their online store is easy to navigate, with detailed fitment information, customer reviews, and technical support. Whether you’re a DIY mechanic or working with a professional shop, KEMSO is a practical, dependable choice.

Final Thoughts

The 2009 F-150 fuel pump fuse is easy to find once you know where to look: under the hood, in the Power Distribution Box, on the driver’s side, near the battery. It’s Fuse 27, a 20-amp mini-blade fuse.

But don’t stop at just knowing the location. If your truck cranks but won’t start, check the fuse first. If the fuse is blown, replace it and see if the problem returns. If the fuse looks fine but the truck still won’t start, inspect the fuse cavity for heat damage—the famous Fuse 27 meltdown is real, and Ford has issued a TSB for it.

Consider installing a Fuse 27 relocation kit as preventive maintenance, even if your fuse currently looks fine. It costs around $20 and takes about two hours to install. That’s cheap insurance against being stranded by a melted fuse on the side of the road.

And if the fuse keeps blowing, don’t just keep swapping it. Check the relay, inspect the wiring, and test the fuel pump itself. Replacing the pump with a quality aftermarket unit from KEMSO (available at https://www.kemsoracing.com/) can solve the problem for good.

Knowing where your fuel pump fuse is and how to test it is one of the most useful skills for any F-150 owner. It could save you a tow bill and a lot of frustration

. Keep this guide in your bookmarks, and you’ll be ready the next time your truck decides not to start.


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