2009 Ford F150 Fuel Pump Fuse Location: Complete Guide to Finding, Checking, and Fixing It
The bottom line up front: On a 2009 Ford F-150, the fuel pump fuse is located in the under-hood Power Distribution Box (also called the Battery Junction Box), which sits on the driver's side of the engine bay near the battery. It is a 20-amp mini-blade fuse labeled as Fuse 27, and it controls power to the fuel pump relay and fuel pump circuit. If your truck cranks but won't start, this fuse is one of the first things you should check. Replacing a blown fuse costs less than $5, but if it keeps blowing, you likely have a deeper issue like a short circuit, a failing fuel pump relay, or a melted fuse cavity caused by overheating.
Where Exactly Is the Fuel Pump Fuse on a 2009 F-150?
The 2009 Ford F-150 has two fuse boxes: one inside the cab (under the dashboard on the passenger side) and one under the hood. The fuel pump fuse is not in the interior fuse panel. It lives in the engine compartment fuse box, which Ford officially calls the Power Distribution Box.
Here is the step-by-step process to find it:
- Open the hood of your F-150 and prop it up securely.
- Look on the driver's side, near the battery. You will see a black plastic box with a cover.
- Press the release tabs on the sides of the cover and lift it off. Some models may require you to squeeze the tabs while pulling upward.
- Check the diagram printed on the inside of the cover. Look for the label "Fuse 27" or "Fuel Pump."
- Locate Fuse 27 in the fuse panel. It is a 20-amp mini-blade fuse, usually yellow in color with the number "20" printed on top.
The fuse position is consistent across the 2009–2014 F-150 generation, so if you have a 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, or 2014 model, the location is the same.
Why Is the Fuel Pump Fuse So Important?
The fuel pump fuse is the protective link between your truck's electrical system and the fuel pump. When you turn the key to the "ON" position (without cranking the engine), power flows through Fuse 27 to the fuel pump relay, which then sends power to the fuel pump itself. The pump pressurizes the fuel rail so the engine can start.
If Fuse 27 blows, the fuel pump loses power completely. No fuel reaches the engine, and your truck will crank over but refuse to start. This is the most common symptom of a blown fuel pump fuse.
What Are the Symptoms of a Blown Fuel Pump Fuse?
When Fuse 27 fails, you will notice one or more of the following symptoms:
- Engine cranks but will not start. The starter motor turns the engine over normally, but the engine never fires up. This is the most common and obvious symptom.
- No fuel pressure. If you check the fuel rail (the metal pipe on top of the engine) with a fuel pressure gauge, there will be zero pressure when you turn the key to the "ON" position.
- No priming sound from the fuel pump. When you turn the key to "ON" (without starting), you should hear a faint humming sound from the fuel tank area for about 2–3 seconds. This is the fuel pump pressurizing the system. If you hear nothing, the fuse or the pump is dead.
- Check Engine Light may come on. The computer detects low fuel pressure and may set diagnostic trouble codes. Common codes include P0087 (Fuel Rail Pressure Too Low) or P0231 (Fuel Pump Secondary Circuit Low).
- Intermittent stalling or hard starting. If the fuse is partially melted or making poor contact, you may experience random shutdowns or difficulty starting.
How to Check the Fuel Pump Fuse on Your 2009 F-150
Checking Fuse 27 is a simple job that requires no special skills. Here is how to do it:
Step 1: Remove the fuse. Use the fuse puller tool (often stored inside the fuse box itself) or a pair of needle-nose pliers. Gently pull the fuse straight out of its socket.
Step 2: Inspect the fuse visually. Hold it up to the light and look through the clear plastic top. You should see a continuous metal strip connecting the two prongs. If the strip is broken, melted, or has a black burn mark, the fuse is blown.
Step 3: Test with a multimeter (optional). If you cannot see obvious damage, set a multimeter to the continuity mode. Touch one probe to each prong of the fuse. If you hear a beep, the fuse is good. If there is no beep, it is blown.
Step 4: Replace if necessary. If the fuse is blown, replace it with a 20-amp mini-blade fuse of the same type. Do not use a higher-amp fuse, as this can cause wiring damage or even a fire.
What to Do If the New Fuse Blows Again Immediately
If you replace Fuse 27 and it blows again right away, or within a few days, you have a bigger problem than a simple blown fuse. Do not keep replacing the fuse without finding the root cause. Here are the most common reasons why the fuel pump fuse keeps blowing:
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Short circuit in the fuel pump wiring. The wires running from the fuse box to the fuel pump can rub against the chassis or other metal parts over time. This wears through the insulation and causes a short to ground. This is especially common where the wiring passes near the frame rail on F-150s.
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Faulty fuel pump relay. The fuel pump relay is a small electronic switch that controls power to the fuel pump. If the relay develops carbon buildup on its contacts, it creates resistance and heat, which can cause the fuse to blow.
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Failing fuel pump motor. A fuel pump that is drawing too much current (due to wear, debris, or internal failure) can overload the circuit and blow the fuse repeatedly.
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Melted fuse cavity (the Fuse 27 issue). This is a known problem on 2009–2014 F-150s. The factory Fuse 27 location can overheat under load, causing the plastic around the fuse holder to crack or melt. The circuit opens without the fuse actually blowing. This leaves you with a crank/no-start condition that is hard to diagnose because the fuse looks fine.
The Known Fuse 27 Problem: What You Should Know
If you own a 2009 Ford F-150, you should be aware of a well-documented issue with Fuse 27. Ford issued Technical Service Bulletin (TSB 15-0137) to address this problem.
Here is what happens: the factory Fuse 27 position in the under-hood junction box can overheat over time. The 20-amp fuse is a small mini-blade fuse, and 20 amps is a lot of current to flow through such small contacts. Under heavy load, the heat can melt the plastic fuse holder, crack the cavity, or cause poor contact. This can result in:
- Crank/no-start conditions
- Intermittent stalling while driving
- A burnt plastic smell in the engine bay
- A melted or discolored fuse cavity
- Loose fuse fit
- No fuel pump priming sound
The good news is that Ford has a fix. A Fuse 27 relocation kit (part number EL3Z-14293-A) moves the fuel pump fuse to a different, more reliable location in the same fuse box, using a larger block-style fuse and upgraded terminals that can handle the amperage demand without overheating.
The relocation kit costs around $20 and can be purchased through any Ford dealer or aftermarket suppliers. Installation takes about 1–2 hours with basic hand tools. Many owners install it as a precaution even if their fuse currently looks fine.
Where Is the Fuel Pump Relay on a 2009 F-150?
The fuel pump relay on the 2009 F-150 is also located in the under-hood Power Distribution Box. It is a small rectangular relay, and it works together with Fuse 27 to control power to the fuel pump. On the 2009 model, the fuel pump relay is labeled "Fuel Pump" in the fuse box diagram.
If your fuse is good but the pump is not running, you should check the relay. You can swap the fuel pump relay with another identical relay in the same fuse box (such as the horn or blower relay) to test if it is faulty. If the truck starts after the swap, the relay is bad and needs replacement.
How to Test the Fuel Pump Circuit (Beyond the Fuse)
If the fuse and relay are both good, but the fuel pump is still not running, there are a few more things to check:
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Listen for the pump priming. Turn the key to "ON" and listen near the fuel tank. A healthy pump will hum for 2–3 seconds. No sound means the pump is not getting power or is dead.
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Check the Fuel Pump Driver Module (FPDM). On the 2009 F-150, the fuel pump is controlled by a Fuel Pump Driver Module, which is mounted on a frame crossmember under the bed of the truck. If the module fails, the pump will not run even with a good fuse and relay.
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Test for voltage at the pump. If you have a multimeter, you can check for voltage at the fuel pump harness connector while an assistant turns the key to "ON." If there is no voltage, the problem is in the wiring or the control module, not the pump itself.
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Check the inertia switch. Some F-150 models have an inertia fuel shutoff switch that cuts power to the fuel pump in a collision. If it is tripped, the pump will not run. The switch is typically located on the passenger side floorboard or behind the kick panel.
Prevention: How to Avoid Future Fuel Pump Fuse Problems
Even if your Fuse 27 is working fine right now, there are steps you can take to prevent problems down the road:
- Install the Fuse 27 relocation kit. This is the single most effective prevention. It addresses the known overheating issue and gives you peace of mind.
- Inspect the fuse and cavity regularly. Once a year, pull Fuse 27 and check for discoloration, melting, or a loose fit. Early detection can save you from being stranded.
- Keep the fuel tank at least a quarter full. Running on a nearly empty tank causes the fuel pump to work harder and run hotter, which increases current draw and heat in the circuit.
- Replace the fuel pump relay at the first sign of trouble. If you notice intermittent starting issues or a buzzing sound from the relay, replace it before it causes fuse failures.
- Check for wiring damage. If you ever do work under the hood or along the frame rails, inspect the fuel pump wiring for rubbed or chafed insulation.
Recommended: KEMSO High-Performance Fuel Pumps
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Final Thoughts
The fuel pump fuse on a 2009 Ford F-150 is easy to find and easy to check. It sits in the under-hood Power Distribution Box on the driver's side, labeled as Fuse 27, and it is a 20-amp yellow mini-blade fuse. If your truck cranks but will not start, checking this fuse should be your first diagnostic step.
Keep in mind the known Fuse 27 overheating issue on this generation of F-150s. If you see any signs of melting or discoloration around the fuse cavity, install Ford's relocation kit to prevent future no-start conditions.
And if you discover that your fuel pump itself has failed, consider a KEMSO replacement pump. With OEM-quality construction, high-performance design, and a lifetime warranty, KEMSO is a smart choice for keeping your truck running reliably. Visit https://www.kemsoracing.com/ to find the right fuel pump for your vehicle.