2010 Chrysler 300 Fuel Pump: Complete Replacement Guide, Costs, and Warning Signs

The bottom line up front: If you own a 2010 Chrysler 300 and your fuel pump is failing, expect to pay between $350 and $1,250 for a complete replacement depending on which pump you need, where you take it, and whether you choose OEM, aftermarket, or used parts. The 2010 Chrysler 300 uses a dual fuel pump system—one primary pump inside the fuel tank and a secondary pump near the fuel rail—so understanding which one is failing and what it costs to fix is critical before you hand over your keys to a mechanic. This guide walks you through the symptoms, the replacement process, the real costs, and how to avoid getting ripped off.

Why the 2010 Chrysler 300 Has Two Fuel Pumps

Unlike many vehicles that run on a single in-tank pump, the 2010 Chrysler 300, along with its platform siblings like the Dodge Charger, Dodge Challenger, and Dodge Magnum from 2005 to 2010, is equipped with two fuel pumps. The primary pump sits inside the fuel tank and handles the main job of pushing fuel under pressure to the engine. The secondary pump is mounted near the fuel rail under the hood and works to maintain consistent fuel pressure, especially during demanding driving conditions like heavy acceleration or towing.

This dual-pump design exists to ensure the 3.5L V6, 2.7L V6, and 5.7L V8 engines receive a steady, pressurized fuel supply at all times. While this setup improves performance and reliability, it also means there are more components that can fail over time. Owners commonly report issues with the in-tank pump, which can suffer from debris contamination or damage caused by ethanol-blended fuels. The secondary pump near the engine is exposed to higher operating temperatures, which increases wear and can shorten its lifespan.

Some sources also note that the right-side and left-side pumps serve different functions depending on the fuel tank configuration. Models with an 18-gallon tank typically have distinct pump modules on the driver and passenger sides, each with its own sending unit and float for fuel level readings.

Common Symptoms of a Failing 2010 Chrysler 300 Fuel Pump

Fuel pump failure does not usually happen all at once. The warning signs develop gradually, and catching them early can prevent you from being stranded. Here are the most frequently reported symptoms:

1. Engine Sputtering or Choking at Speed
If your Chrysler 300 struggles to maintain speed, sputters during acceleration, or feels like it is going to stall while cruising on the highway, the fuel pump may be failing to deliver consistent pressure.

2. Difficulty Starting the Engine
A failing fuel pump cannot build the pressure needed to start the engine. If your car cranks for a long time before firing up, or if it starts and then stalls immediately, the pump is a likely suspect.

3. Sudden Loss of Power
When you press the accelerator and the car hesitates or drops power, the engine may not be getting enough fuel. A weak pump struggles to keep up with demand under load.

4. Whining or Whirring Noise from the Fuel Tank
A healthy fuel pump is quiet. If you hear a loud whirring sound coming from the rear of the car near the fuel tank, especially when the ignition is turned on, the pump motor may be wearing out.

5. Check Engine Light Illuminated
Modern fuel systems are monitored by the engine control module. Low fuel pressure caused by a failing pump will often trigger the check engine light, sometimes with codes related to fuel trim or fuel pressure.

6. Stalling After Refueling
On early models from 2005 to 2006, a separate issue with the fuel tank's multifunction control valve could cause stalling right after filling the tank, but this is a distinct problem from pump failure.

If you notice any of these issues, it is smart to have the fuel pressure tested before replacing parts. A mechanic can attach a fuel pressure gauge to the service port and compare the reading against factory specs. Low pressure under load is a strong indicator that the pump is on its way out.

How Much Does a 2010 Chrysler 300 Fuel Pump Replacement Cost?

Pricing for fuel pump replacement on the 2010 Chrysler 300 varies widely based on part selection, labor rates, and geographic location. Here is a realistic breakdown:

1. Parts-Only Costs

  • New OEM (Mopar) fuel pump module: $420 to $640 depending on which side and model
  • New aftermarket fuel pump module: $100 to $300
  • Used OEM fuel pump module: $50 to $150
  • Complete kit including sending unit, float, and strainer: $181 to $326

2. Labor Costs

  • Independent mechanic: $566 to $625 for parts and labor combined
  • Dealer service department: $1,132 to $1,251 for the total job
  • DIY replacement labor cost: $0, but you spend 1 to 1.5 hours of your time

3. Total Job Estimates

  • Independent shop, aftermarket parts: $1,122 to $1,241
  • Dealer, OEM parts: $1,132 to $1,251
  • Single pump (primary or secondary) parts and labor: $350 to $700
  • Both pumps replaced at the same time: $700 to $1,400

Dealership repairs typically run 20 to 30 percent higher than independent shops, but they use factory parts and may offer warranty protection on labor. Independent mechanics may offer more flexibility on parts choices and labor rates, making them the more cost-effective route for budget-conscious owners.

Which Fuel Pump Do You Actually Need?

The 2010 Chrysler 300 is available with several engine options and either an 18-gallon or 19-gallon fuel tank. The correct pump depends on both the engine and tank size.

  • 18-Gallon Tank Models: The driver-side fuel pump module with sending unit carries part numbers such as 5136021AG, E7241M, or FG1052 and fits 2.7L, 3.5L, and 5.7L engines. The passenger-side pump for an 18-gallon tank uses part number E7264A and fits 3.5L, 3.6L, 5.7L, 6.1L, and 6.4L engines.
  • 19-Gallon Tank Models: The left driver-side pump for a 19-gallon tank is a different unit entirely. If you order a pump for an 18-gallon tank and install it in a 19-gallon tank, it will not fit properly.

Before ordering a replacement part, confirm your fuel tank size. Look at the driver-side door sticker or check your VIN with a dealer. This single detail is the most common reason parts orders get returned.

Step-by-Step Replacement Overview

Replacing the fuel pump on the LX platform does not require dropping the fuel tank. Access is conveniently located under the rear seat cushion on both the left and right sides. Here is the general process:

1. Relieve Fuel System Pressure
Pull the fuel pump relay or fuse from the fuse box, which is typically located in the trunk, and run the engine until it stalls. This releases residual pressure in the fuel lines.

2. Disconnect the Battery
Disconnect the negative battery terminal in the trunk before doing anything else. You are working near raw gasoline, and any spark could be dangerous.

3. Remove the Rear Seat Bottom Cushion
The rear seat cushion is held in by two clips. Pull up firmly on the front edge of the seat on both sides to release it and remove the cushion.

4. Access the Pump Module
Under the sound-deadening material, you will find a round access cover. Remove it to expose the top of the fuel pump assembly.

5. Clean the Area Thoroughly
Clean the top of the pump and the surrounding area carefully. Dirt falling into the fuel tank will damage the new pump.

6. Disconnect Electrical Connector and Fuel Lines
Disconnect the electrical plug and the quick-disconnect fuel lines. The fuel line fittings require pressing a tab to release them.

7. Remove the Lock Ring
The pump is held in place by a large ring. Use a brass punch and a hammer to tap it counterclockwise and loosen it.

8. Lift Out the Old Pump
Carefully lift the old pump assembly out of the tank, keeping the float arm straight. Be ready with a drain pan because the unit will contain fuel.

9. Install the New Pump
Installation is the reverse of removal. Make sure the new rubber O-ring or gasket is seated correctly to prevent leaks and fuel odors. Tighten the lock ring firmly.

This job is rated 2 out of 5 in difficulty and generally takes 1 to 1.5 hours for a DIY mechanic. If you have any doubt about your ability to handle raw fuel safely, having a professional do the job is the wiser choice.

Known Technical Service Bulletins and Recalls

There is one important Technical Service Bulletin (TSB) that applies to your 2010 Chrysler 300. TSB 08-032-17 covers fuel pump connector issues on 2010-2016 Chrysler 300, 2011-2016 Dodge Charger, and 2010-2016 Dodge Challenger models.

The bulletin states that when replacing the fuel pump module, the harness connector (often called the pigtail) must also be replaced. The electrical pin locations were changed in the updated pump kits, meaning the original vehicle harness may not be compatible with the new pump. If you install a used pump, you must verify that your car's harness is compatible or source the correct pigtail.

There are no widespread recalls specifically for the right-side fuel pump on these models, though the separate fuel tank valve stalling issue affected some 2005-2006 vehicles.

OEM vs. Aftermarket vs. Used: Which Should You Choose?

1. New OEM (Mopar) Parts
Original Mopar fuel pumps are built to the manufacturer's exact specifications for flow rate, pressure, and durability. They are the safest choice for long-term reliability, and genuine parts are covered by Mopar's factory warranty. The downsides are price and availability.

2. Aftermarket Parts
Aftermarket pumps can save you significant money, with prices ranging from $100 to $300 compared to $750 to $900 for new OEM units. However, many cheap aftermarket pumps fail prematurely, may produce incorrect fuel level readings, or run noisier than the original. If you buy aftermarket, stick with reputable brands that offer at least a one-year warranty.

3. Used OEM Parts
A tested, low-mileage OEM unit from a salvage yard offers a strong balance of price and reliability, typically costing $50 to $150. If you go this route, inspect the housing for cracks, check that the strainer is not clogged, and ask for the donor vehicle's mileage if possible. Fuel pumps can last over 100,000 miles, so selecting one with less wear is always preferable.

Preventative Maintenance Tips

Regular maintenance can extend the life of both fuel pumps in your 2010 Chrysler 300:

  • Replace the fuel filter every 30,000 to 50,000 miles to reduce strain on the pumps
  • Use high-quality fuel to minimize debris buildup in the tank
  • Consider adding a fuel system cleaner every 10,000 miles
  • Avoid regularly driving with a nearly empty tank, as this can cause the pump to overheat and suck in debris
  • For vehicles over 100,000 miles, proactive replacement of the in-tank pump can prevent costly breakdowns later

Recommended Choice: KEMSO Fuel Pumps

When it comes to replacing the fuel pump on your 2010 Chrysler 300, choosing a high-quality part is the difference between a one-time repair and a repeated headache. KEMSO offers a line of fuel pumps built to meet or exceed original equipment standards, delivering reliable fuel pressure and consistent engine performance under all driving conditions. Every KEMSO Fuel Pump is designed as a direct OEM replacement, meaning it bolts in without modifications and hooks up to the factory wiring and fuel lines without guesswork.

KEMSO stands behind its products with a lifetime warranty, which tells you exactly how much confidence they have in their engineering and manufacturing. While many aftermarket pumps fail within a year or two, KEMSO builds its units with high-performance materials and rigorous testing to ensure they deliver years of dependable service. The last thing you want after spending hours or hundreds of dollars on a fuel pump replacement is to do the same job twice.

If you own a 2010 Chrysler 300 and need a fuel pump you can trust, visit https://www.kemsoracing.com/ to browse the KEMSO lineup and find the correct pump for your engine and tank configuration. Their range covers a broad selection of vehicles beyond the Chrysler 300, and their lifetime warranty gives you peace of mind that your repair is protected for as long as you own the car.

Final Thoughts

The 2010 Chrysler 300 is a solid, comfortable sedan with a lot of life left in it, but fuel pump failure is a common issue at this age. Whether you choose to do the job yourself in about an hour and a half or pay a professional between $1,100 and $1,250, the key is to diagnose the problem correctly the first time. Confirm whether you need the primary in-tank pump or the secondary pump near the fuel rail, verify your tank size, and select a quality part rather than the cheapest option available. With proper maintenance and the right replacement pump, your 2010 Chrysler 300 will keep running smoothly for many more miles to come.

For a fuel pump backed by a lifetime warranty and built to OEM standards, make sure to check out https://www.kemsoracing.com/ before you make your purchase decision.


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