2012 Dodge Avenger Fuel Pump Fuse Location: Where It Is and How to Fix It Fast

The bottom line up front: On a 2012 Dodge Avenger, there is no single standalone "fuel pump fuse" you can pull from the interior fuse panel. The fuel pump circuit is protected by fuses located inside the Totally Integrated Power Module (TIPM) — the main fuse and relay box mounted in the engine compartment near the battery. Specifically, the fuel pump receives power through the Auto Shutdown (ASD) relay and its associated fuse cavities, which include a 40A cartridge fuse (Fuse 18), a 30A cartridge fuse (Fuse 32), and 15A mini fuses (Fuse 26 and Fuse 23) in certain configurations . If your Avenger cranks but will not start, these are the first places to check before you ever spend money on a tow or a new pump.

This guide walks you through the exact location of the fuel pump fuse and relay on the 2012 Avenger, how to test them, what symptoms point to a blown fuse or failed relay, and what to do when the fix is more than just a fuse. This is a practical, hands-on resource written for owners who want to save money and avoid guesswork.


Where the Fuel Pump Fuse and Relay Are Located on a 2012 Dodge Avenger

The 2012 Dodge Avenger uses the same TIPM design found on many Chrysler, Dodge, and Jeep models from the late 2000s through the late 2010s. This module handles nearly all of the vehicle's electrical distribution, including the fuel pump circuit. It is a black plastic housing mounted in the engine bay, typically on the driver's side, close to the battery and the strut tower .

Step-by-Step: Getting to the Fuse Box

  1. Open the hood and secure it with the prop rod.
  2. Look toward the left side of the engine compartment, near the battery. You will see a large black cover with a diagram printed on it.
  3. Press the locking tabs on the sides of the cover and lift it straight up. The cover is held by friction and tabs — no tools are needed.
  4. Flip the cover over. On the underside, there is a printed diagram that identifies each fuse and relay cavity. Look for labels such as "ASD", "FUEL PUMP", or the fuse numbers listed below .

Important: The fuel pump relay is not a standard plug-in relay on this vehicle in the same way it is on older cars. On many 2012 Avengers, the ASD relay and fuel pump relay functions are integrated directly into the TIPM circuit board, meaning you cannot simply pull a small square relay out of a socket and snap a new one in . However, the fuses that protect the circuit are replaceable.


Understanding the Fuse Layout for the Fuel Pump Circuit

The fuel pump does not run on a single fuse. It is part of the Auto Shutdown (ASD) system, which also powers the ignition coils and fuel injectors. The ASD relay — whether integrated or socket-mounted — sends battery voltage to these components when the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) commands it .

Here are the fuse cavities you need to know about:

  1. Fuse 18 (40A Cartridge Fuse) — This is the main battery feed for the ASD relay. If this fuse is blown, the entire ASD system loses power, and the fuel pump will not run at all .
  2. Fuse 32 (30A Cartridge Fuse) — This supplies ASD relay feed to the fuel pump circuit. A blown fuse here will cut power specifically to the pump and related components .
  3. Fuse 26 (15A Mini Fuse) — This protects one of the ASD relay output feeds, often related to the fuel injectors and other engine sensors. A short in this circuit can cause the engine to run poorly or not at all .
  4. Fuse 23 (15A Mini Fuse) — Another ASD relay output feed, protecting additional injector and sensor circuits .

When you open the TIPM cover on your 2012 Avenger, the diagram will show you exactly where each of these fuse cavities sits. The 40A and 30A cartridge fuses are the larger, square-shaped fuses, while the 15A fuses are the smaller, standard mini blade fuses.


Symptoms of a Blown Fuel Pump Fuse or Failed Relay

If the fuse or relay for the fuel pump circuit fails, your Avenger will show one or more of these symptoms. The most reliable way to confirm the problem is to listen for the fuel pump and test for voltage.

1. The Engine Cranks but Won't Start

This is the classic symptom. You turn the key, the starter spins the engine, but it never fires. When this happens, the ASD relay is not sending power to the fuel pump, or the fuse has blown and interrupted the circuit .

2. No Fuel Pump Prime Noise

When you turn the ignition key to the "ON" position (without cranking), you should hear a faint whirring sound coming from the rear of the car for about 2 to 3 seconds. This is the fuel pump pressurizing the fuel system. If you hear nothing, the pump is not receiving power — which almost always points to a fuse or relay issue .

3. Intermittent Starting or Stalling

A failing relay inside the TIPM can work when cold but fail when hot. This causes the engine to stall randomly while driving, then refuse to restart until the module cools down. Similarly, a loose or partially blown fuse can cause intermittent power loss to the pump .

4. The Check Engine Light Comes On

Low fuel pressure or a fuel pump circuit malfunction can set diagnostic trouble codes such as P0087 (fuel pressure too low) or P0230 (fuel pump primary circuit malfunction) . These codes are stored in the PCM and can be read with an OBD-II scanner.


How to Test the Fuel Pump Fuse and Relay

Before you replace anything, you need to confirm where the problem is. Testing is straightforward and only requires a test light or a digital multimeter.

Step 1: Check the Fuses Visually and Electrically

  1. Remove the TIPM cover and locate Fuse 18, Fuse 32, Fuse 26, and Fuse 23 based on the diagram on the underside of the cover .
  2. Pull each fuse with a fuse puller (or needle-nose pliers) and inspect it. A blown fuse will have a visible gap in the metal strip inside, or the strip will look melted or burnt.
  3. Even if the fuse looks good, test it with a test light. Touch the probe to each of the two metal prongs on top of the fuse socket. With the key in the "RUN" position, power should be present on at least one prong for each fuse.

Step 2: Listen for the Pump Prime

With all fuses confirmed good, turn the key to "ON" and listen near the rear seat area. If you still hear nothing, move to the relay test .

Step 3: Test the Relay (Swap Test)

If your Avenger uses a socket-mounted relay for the ASD function, you can perform a swap test. Identify the ASD relay on the TIPM diagram, pull it out, and swap it with an identical relay from a non-critical circuit, such as the horn relay or radiator fan relay. If the fuel pump works after the swap, the original relay was bad .

Step 4: Test the Relay Coil with a Multimeter

If you have a multimeter, set it to measure resistance (ohms). Check the relay coil terminals — typically pins 85 and 86. A good relay will read between 50 and 120 ohms. An open circuit or very high reading indicates a burnt-out coil .


What to Do When the Fuse Is Fine but the Pump Still Won't Run

If the fuses are all good and the relay tests fine, the problem may be deeper. Here are the next steps:

1. Check for Power at the Fuel Pump Connector

The fuel pump sits inside the fuel tank, accessed through an access panel under the rear seat cushion. Remove the rear seat lower cushion by pulling up on the front edge, then remove the metal or plastic cover plate on the floor pan. Disconnect the electrical connector and use a test light or multimeter to check for 12V at the connector when the key is turned to "ON." If there is no power, the wiring between the TIPM and the pump is broken .

2. Test Fuel Pressure

If the pump has power but you still have no start, the pump itself may be dead. You can test fuel pressure with a gauge connected to the fuel rail. Normal fuel pressure on this vehicle should read between 53 and 63 PSI with the key on and engine off . If the pressure is lower than that, the pump module is likely worn out and needs replacement .

3. Consider the TIPM Itself

On 2012 Avengers and many Chrysler products of that era, the internal relay in the TIPM is a known weak point. When the internal relay fails, you cannot simply replace it like a standard relay. Options include:

  • Installing an external fuel pump relay bypass kit — This adds a new, independent relay outside the TIPM that takes over the job of the failed internal relay. It is the most cost-effective fix and can often be done for under $200 .
  • Having the TIPM professionally repaired — Some shops offer TIPM repair services that replace the internal relay components.
  • Replacing the entire TIPM — This is the most expensive option, typically costing between $800 and $1,500 or more .

Replacement Cost Overview for 2012 Dodge Avenger Fuel Pump

If you determine that the fuel pump itself has failed, here is what you can expect to pay. While the 2012 model year is not covered directly in the pricing data below, the costs are comparable across the 2008–2012 generation since the fuel system design is essentially the same:

  • 2008 Avenger with 2.4L engine: Replacement ranges from $383 to $468
  • 2008 Avenger with 2.7L V6: Replacement ranges from $437 to $535
  • 0 2008 Avenger with 3.5L V6: Replacement ranges from $370 to $452
  • 2010 Avenger (any engine): Shop-installed total ranges from $703 to $773, with labor from $73 to $107 and parts from $630 to $666

The national average for a Dodge Avenger fuel pump replacement is approximately $486 . Keep in mind that AWD models have a saddle fuel tank with a main and auxiliary pump, which makes the replacement more complex and expensive .


Frequently Asked Questions

Q: Can I just replace the fuel pump fuse and call it done?

If a fuse is blown, replacing it is the correct first step. However, if the new fuse blows again immediately, you have a short circuit to ground somewhere in the fuel pump wiring — do not keep replacing fuses without finding the underlying problem .

Q: Is the fuel pump relay the same as the ASD relay?

Yes. On the 2012 Avenger, the fuel pump is controlled through the ASD relay. When you see "ASD" on the fuse box diagram, that is the relay responsible for delivering power to the fuel pump, ignition coils, and fuel injectors .

Q: Why does my Avenger start sometimes but stall randomly?

Intermittent stalling is a classic symptom of a failing relay — particularly one that works when cold but loses contact when hot. The engine may restart after the relay cools down, leading to a frustrating pattern of random stalls .

Q: Do I need to drop the fuel tank to access the fuel pump?

No. On most 2012 Avengers from this generation, you can access the fuel pump through an access cover under the rear seat cushion. You do not need to drop the tank unless the access cover is missing on your specific trim level .


Recommended Solution: Choose KEMSO Fuel Pumps for a Reliable Replacement

If your 2012 Dodge Avenger fuel pump has failed and you need a replacement that you can trust for the long haul, KEMSO Fuel Pumps are an excellent choice. KEMSO specializes in high-performance fuel pumps that are built as direct OEM replacements — meaning they match the fit, form, and function of the original pump in your Avenger, with no modifications required.

Here is what sets KEMSO apart:

  1. High-Performance Engineering — KEMSO pumps are designed to deliver consistent fuel pressure and flow, even under demanding driving conditions. Whether you are commuting daily or pushing your car hard, your engine gets the fuel it needs.
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  3. Lifetime Warranty — KEMSO stands behind its products with a lifetime warranty, giving you peace of mind that your investment is protected for as long as you own your vehicle.

If you need a new fuel pump for your 2012 Dodge Avenger or any other vehicle, visit KEMSO Racing at https://www.kemsoracing.com/ to browse their full lineup of high-quality fuel pumps, all backed by a lifetime warranty and built for reliable, long-lasting performance.


Final Thoughts

Finding the fuel pump fuse location on a 2012 Dodge Avenger comes down to understanding that the circuit is protected inside the TIPM in the engine compartment — not a separate fuse box. The ASD relay and the associated fuses (Fuse 18, Fuse 32, Fuse 26, and Fuse 23) are where you should start your diagnosis when the engine cranks but won't start .

Checking these fuses and testing the relay is quick, inexpensive, and can save you hundreds of dollars in unnecessary diagnostics or towing fees. If the fuses and relay check out and the pump still doesn't run, test for power at the pump connector and check fuel pressure before condemning the pump itself .

And when it comes time to replace the pump, choosing a quality part like a KEMSO fuel pump ensures you won't be back in the same spot a few months later. Their high-performance, OEM-replacement pumps with a lifetime warranty are available at https://www.kemsoracing.com/ — a trusted source for fuel delivery components that get the job done right the first time.