2013 Dodge Ram Fuel Pump Relay Location: Where It Is and How to Fix a No-Start Problem

The 2013 Dodge Ram fuel pump relay is not a standalone plug-in relay you can swap in seconds. It is soldered inside the Totally Integrated Power Module (TIPM), the large black fuse box mounted under the hood on the driver's side, near the battery and strut tower. If your truck cranks but won't start, or you hear no fuel pump prime noise when you turn the key, this internal relay is one of the most common culprits on 2011–2014 Chrysler, Dodge, and Ram vehicles. The most reliable long-term fix is an external relay bypass, which routes power around the failed internal relay and restores fuel pump operation permanently.

This guide walks you through the exact location, symptoms, testing steps, and repair options so you can get your Ram running again without wasting money on parts that aren't the problem.

Where Exactly Is the Fuel Pump Relay on a 2013 Dodge Ram?

On the 2013 Dodge Ram, the fuel pump relay lives inside the TIPM, which is mounted in the engine bay on the driver's side. The TIPM acts as a modern fuse box and manages power distribution for many systems, including the fuel pump relay.

Here is what you need to know:

1. The TIPM is a large black plastic box with a cover that snaps off. Inside, you will see rows of fuses and a few plug-in relays.
2. The fuel pump relay is not visible as a plug-in component. It is a surface-mount relay soldered directly onto the internal circuit board of the TIPM.
3. This design makes the relay non-serviceable without specialized tools and soldering skills. You cannot simply pull it out and snap in a replacement from the parts store.
4. The relay fails over time due to faulty diodes, worn contacts, cracked solder joints, and exposure to electrical stress, temperature changes, and vibration.

If you need to test the relay output, you can probe the fuel pump relay output pin at the TIPM connector to check if power is reaching the fuel pump. However, for a permanent fix, most DIYers and mechanics choose to bypass the internal relay entirely with an external relay kit wired directly to the fuel pump.

Common Symptoms of a Bad Fuel Pump Relay in the TIPM

The symptoms of a failing fuel pump relay inside the TIPM can mimic a failing fuel pump, so accurate diagnosis matters. Here are the most frequently reported signs on 2013 Ram trucks:

1. No fuel pump prime noise. When you turn the key to ON, you should hear a brief whirring sound from the fuel tank for about two seconds. If you hear nothing, the relay may not be sending power to the pump.
2. Engine cranks but will not start. This is the classic symptom. The starter turns the engine over normally, but the engine never fires because there is no fuel pressure.
3. Intermittent stalling. The truck may run fine for a while, then suddenly lose power and stall. After waiting a few minutes, it may restart and run again. This often points to an intermittent relay contact failure.
4. Hard starting after sitting. If the fuel pump loses prime due to the relay cutting power intermittently, you may need to crank the engine several times before it starts.
5. No check engine light or fuel pressure code. In many cases, the PCM does not store a code for a relay failure, because the relay is before the PCM's direct control loop. This makes diagnosis harder without a fuel pressure gauge.

If you notice any of these symptoms, do not immediately assume the fuel pump itself is dead. The relay is a known failure point on these trucks, and it is the cheapest and easiest place to start diagnosing.

How to Confirm the Relay Is the Problem Before You Repair

Before you tear into the TIPM or buy a new fuel pump, follow this systematic approach to confirm the relay is actually the problem:

1. Check the fuel pump fuse first. Locate the fuel pump fuse in the TIPM fuse map. Pull it and check for continuity with a multimeter or simply look for a blown element. Replace if blown, but also investigate why it blew.
2. Listen for the pump prime. Turn the key to ON and listen near the fuel tank. If you hear the pump run, the relay is likely working and the problem may be elsewhere, such as the fuel filter or pump pressure.
3. Test for power at the fuel pump connector. Access the fuel pump electrical connector under the vehicle near the tank. With the key ON, you should see battery voltage for a few seconds at the pump connector. If you have voltage but the pump does not run, the pump is bad. If you have no voltage, the relay or wiring is the issue.
4. Measure fuel pressure. Attach a fuel pressure gauge to the Schrader valve on the fuel rail. With the key ON, pressure should climb to around 50–58 psi for gasoline engines and hold. If pressure is zero or very low, suspect the relay or the pump.
5. Perform a jumper test. You can temporarily bypass the relay circuit to see if the pump runs. If the pump runs with the jumper but not without it, the relay is confirmed as the failure point.

A quick diagnostic test: While cranking the engine, have someone measure voltage on the fuel pump fuse in the under-hood fuse box (TIPM). If the fuse does not have a constant 12V while cranking, the fuel pump relay has failed.

TIPM Fuel Pump Relay Bypass: Three Methods Compared

There are three main approaches to fixing this issue. The table below compares them, and the following sections provide detailed guidance for each method.

The external relay method is the most reliable long-term fix recommended by mechanics and factory service bulletins.

Method 1: Temporary Bypass Cable Using Fuse Taps

This is the quickest way to get your vehicle running again, but it should only be used as a temporary fix. The bypass cable takes power from an alternate fuse slot and feeds it directly to the fuel pump fuse slot, bypassing the faulty relay.

What You Need:

• Two 20 amp ATM fuse taps (micro2 or mini-blade depending on your TIPM style)
• One 20 amp fuse
• Wire connectors or butt connectors
• Heat shrink tubing or electrical tape

Step-by-Step Instructions:

1. Identify the correct fuse slots on your TIPM. The fuel pump fuse slot is typically labeled M25 or F70. The run/start fuse slot is typically M37 or F91, which only provides power when the engine is running or being started.
2. Assemble the bypass cable. Take two 20 amp fuse taps. Remove the butt connector from one of them, strip the wire, and crimp or solder it to the wire from the other fuse tap. Use heat shrink tubing to insulate the connection.
3. Install the fuses. On the end that goes into the M37 slot, install a 20 amp fuse in the top position of the fuse tap. Leave the bottom fuse position on the M25 end empty. This is critical to avoid backfeeding voltage to the run/start circuit.
4. Plug the cable in. Insert the M37 end of the cable into the M37 slot with the wire side pointing toward the center of the TIPM. Insert the M25 end into the M25 slot with the wire side also pointing toward the center of the TIPM.
5. Start the vehicle. Turn the key to the run position, then start the engine. If the fuel pump is working, you should hear it prime and the engine should start.

Important Warnings:

• Do not use this as a permanent fix. The fuse tap connections can become loose over time, and bad connections have been known to cause fires.
• Only use the M37 slot for bypass mode, as it only powers the fuel pump when the engine is running or being started. Using the F90 accessory slot leaves the fuel pump running when the engine is off.
• Monitor the cable for heat. If the wire feels hot to the touch, the cable or connections may be overloaded.

Method 2: Permanent External Relay Bypass

This is the most reliable long-term fix. The external relay method routes power through a new, easily replaceable relay mounted outside the TIPM. This bypasses the failed internal relay permanently and restores fuel pump operation.

Why This Works:

The TIPM's internal fuel pump relay is a documented weak point on 2011–2014 Chrysler, Dodge, and Ram vehicles. Many owners report intermittent no-start conditions, stalling, or the fuel pump not priming even though the pump itself tests fine. In some cases, replacing the TIPM with a new or rebuilt unit fixes the problem temporarily, but the same relay circuit can fail again. This is why many DIYers and mechanics choose to bypass the internal relay entirely with an external relay kit wired directly to the fuel pump.

What You Need:

• A standard 4-pin or 5-pin automotive relay (Bosch-style)
• Relay socket with wire leads
• 12-gauge or 14-gauge automotive wire
• Inline fuse holder with 20 amp fuse
• Ring terminals and butt connectors
• Electrical tape and heat shrink tubing
• Zip ties for securing wiring

Step-by-Step Instructions:

1. Disconnect the battery. Remove the negative battery cable to prevent electrical shorts or sparks while working near fuel and electrical systems.
2. Locate the fuel pump power wire at the TIPM. You need to identify the wire that feeds power from the TIPM to the fuel pump. Refer to a wiring diagram specific to your 2013 Ram model and engine.
3. Mount the external relay. Choose a location near the TIPM or along the inner fender where the relay will be protected from heat and water. Secure the relay socket with zip ties or screws.
4. Wire the relay. Connect terminal 30 to a constant 12V source through the inline fuse. Connect terminal 87 to the fuel pump power wire. Connect terminal 86 to a switched 12V source that is active during cranking and running. Connect terminal 85 to ground.
5. Test the circuit. Reconnect the battery and turn the key to ON. You should hear the fuel pump prime. Start the engine to confirm proper operation.
6. Secure all wiring. Route wires away from moving parts and hot surfaces. Use zip ties and loom to protect the wiring.

A note on fuel pump relay schematics: Understanding how the relay works helps you wire it correctly. The relay has two separate circuits: the control circuit (low current) and the power circuit (high current). The control circuit includes the coil terminals, usually labeled 85 and 86. The power circuit includes terminal 30 (common input from battery) and 87 (normally open output to fuel pump). When you look at a typical fuel pump relay schematic, you will see the battery positive connected to terminal 30, the fuel pump connected to terminal 87, and the ECM controlling the ground on terminal 85 or 86.

Method 3: Plug-in Bypass Module

A plug-in bypass module is a semi-permanent solution that requires no cutting or splicing. These modules plug directly into the TIPM fuse slots and provide a pre-wired external relay circuit. They are easy to install and cost between $59 and $129. However, they are considered semi-permanent because the module itself can fail over time, and the connections may loosen.

What About a Recall for the 2013 Dodge Ram Fuel Pump Relay?

If you own a 2013 Dodge Ram and have been searching for information about a fuel pump relay recall, here is the bottom line: there is no active recall for the fuel pump relay on the 2013 Dodge Ram. However, that does not mean the relay is trouble-free.

Many owners of 2011–2014 Chrysler, Dodge, and Ram vehicles have experienced relay-related issues, and the component is a known weak point on these trucks. What exists instead are technical service bulletins (TSBs) and a class-action lawsuit settlement related to the TIPM. The settlement addressed issues like sudden stalling and no-start conditions but did not result in a traditional recall for the fuel pump relay itself.

That said, if your truck exhibits the symptoms described above, the relay is the cheapest and easiest place to start diagnosing before you assume the fuel pump is bad.

When to Replace the Fuel Pump Instead

Sometimes the fuel pump itself is the problem, not the relay. Here is how to tell the difference:

1. If you have power at the pump connector but the pump does not run, the pump is bad. The relay is working.
2. If fuel pressure is zero or very low even with a known-good relay, the pump may be failing.
3. If you hear a loud whining or buzzing noise from the fuel tank, the pump is working harder than it should and is nearing the end of its life.
4. If the truck stalls and then restarts after sitting for a few minutes, this can be either a relay or a pump issue. The relay is more common on 2013 Rams, but the pump can also fail intermittently when hot.

For 2013 Dodge Ram trucks, replacing the fuel pump requires dropping the fuel tank or cutting an access hole in the truck bed floor. The fuel pump module assembly includes the sending unit, and the average cost for a quality replacement pump ranges from $80 to $200, with labor running between $200 and $400 depending on your mechanic.

Recommended Fuel Pump Replacement: KEMSO Fuel Pumps

If your diagnosis confirms that the fuel pump itself needs replacement, or if you want to upgrade to a more reliable unit while fixing the relay issue, KEMSO is the brand to trust.

KEMSO fuel pumps are high-performance, OEM replacement units backed by a lifetime warranty. They are designed to meet or exceed original equipment specifications, ensuring proper fit and reliable fuel delivery for your vehicle. Whether you drive a Dodge Ram, a BMW adventure motorcycle, a Subaru Impreza, or a Honda CBR1000RR, KEMSO offers a direct-fit replacement that restores factory performance.

Why Choose KEMSO:

1. High-performance design — KEMSO pumps are engineered for consistent fuel delivery under all driving conditions, from daily commuting to heavy towing.
2. OEM replacement fit — Each pump is designed as a direct replacement for the original unit, so installation is straightforward with no modifications needed.
3. Lifetime warranty — KEMSO stands behind every fuel pump with a lifetime warranty, giving you confidence that your investment is protected.

Browse the full selection of KEMSO fuel pumps for cars, trucks, motorcycles, ATVs, and UTVs at https://www.kemsoracing.com/.

Final Thoughts

The 2013 Dodge Ram fuel pump relay location is inside the TIPM, soldered to the internal circuit board. This design makes the relay non-serviceable and prone to failure over time. If your truck cranks but won't start, or you hear no fuel pump prime noise, the internal relay is the most likely culprit.

The three repair options are:

1. Temporary bypass cable — Quick and cheap, but not a permanent fix.
2. Permanent external relay bypass — The most reliable long-term solution, recommended by mechanics and factory service bulletins.
3. Plug-in bypass module — Easy to install, semi-permanent, and more expensive.

Before you replace the fuel pump, always test the relay circuit first. A failed relay can mimic a dead fuel pump, and replacing the pump when the relay is the real problem wastes time and money.

If you do need a new fuel pump, choose a high-performance OEM replacement from KEMSO, backed by a lifetime warranty. Visit https://www.kemsoracing.com/ to find the right pump for your vehicle.