July 2026

2013 Ford Explorer Fuel Pump: Complete Guide to Symptoms, Replacement Cost, and Best Options

The bottom line: If you own a 2013 Ford Explorer and your engine is struggling to start, hesitating during acceleration, or stalling unexpectedly, the fuel pump is likely failing. Replacing it costs between $600 and $1,000 at a shop, with parts ranging from $81 for aftermarket assemblies to over $400 for genuine OEM units. The job requires dropping the fuel tank and takes 4-7 hours for a skilled mechanic. For the best balance of performance, reliability, and value, consider a high-quality aftermarket option like KEMSO, which offers OEM replacement specifications with a lifetime warranty.

Understanding Your 2013 Ford Explorer Fuel Pump

The fuel pump in your 2013 Ford Explorer is an in-tank electric pump that sits inside the fuel tank. It is responsible for drawing fuel from the tank and delivering it to the engine at a consistent pressure between 55 and 65 psi. This pressure is critical for proper fuel atomization and combustion. The pump assembly typically includes the pump itself, a fuel level sending unit with a float arm, a strainer or filter sock, and sometimes a pressure regulator.

For the 2013 Explorer, there are two distinct fuel pump systems depending on your engine configuration. The standard 3.5L V6 engine uses a low-pressure in-tank pump that delivers fuel to the fuel rail at 55-65 psi. If you have the 3.5L EcoBoost turbocharged engine, your vehicle has both a low-pressure in-tank pump and a high-pressure fuel pump mounted on the engine that boosts pressure for direct injection. The turbocharged engine requires a different replacement part, so it is critical to confirm your engine type before purchasing.

The OEM part numbers for the 2013 Ford Explorer fuel pump assembly include DB5Z-9H307-C, which supersedes DB5Z-9H307-B, as well as DA8Z9H307K and DA8Z9H307L. These numbers are essential for cross-referencing when shopping for a replacement.

Common Symptoms of a Failing Fuel Pump

A deteriorating fuel pump rarely fails without warning. Most drivers experience one or more of these symptoms before a complete breakdown occurs:

1. Engine cranks but won't start. This is the most common failure mode. When you turn the key, the starter motor spins the engine, but it never fires up. This happens because the pump is not building enough pressure to push fuel to the injectors. You may also hear the fuel pump prime for a second when you first turn the key to the "on" position. If you do not hear that brief whirring sound from the rear of the vehicle, the pump is likely dead.

2. Accelerator hesitation or surging. If the engine stumbles or hesitates when you press the gas pedal, especially during highway merging or passing, the fuel pump may be delivering inconsistent pressure. You might also feel the vehicle surge forward unexpectedly as pressure fluctuates. This symptom is dangerous because it can affect your ability to accelerate out of traffic.

3. Loss of power under load. Climbing hills or carrying a heavy load should not cause your Explorer to struggle. If the engine feels weak when you need power most, the fuel pump may not be keeping up with demand. This is particularly noticeable in the 3.5L engine, which requires steady fuel delivery to maintain its 290-horsepower output.

4. Engine sputtering at high speeds. If your Explorer runs fine around town but starts sputtering or misfiring on the highway, this points to a pump that cannot maintain pressure at higher flow rates. The pump may be worn internally, allowing fuel to bypass the impeller.

5. Whining noise from the fuel tank. A healthy fuel pump operates quietly. If you hear a loud whining or buzzing sound coming from the rear of the vehicle near the gas tank, the pump bearings or motor are failing. This noise often gets louder as the fuel level drops because the pump works harder to draw fuel.

6. Poor fuel economy. While many factors affect gas mileage, a failing fuel pump can cause the engine to run rich (too much fuel) or lean (too little fuel), both of which reduce efficiency. If your Explorer's fuel economy drops suddenly without other obvious causes, check the fuel system.

7. Check Engine Light. The onboard diagnostic system may detect fuel pressure issues and trigger the Check Engine Light. Common trouble codes include P0087 (fuel rail pressure too low), P0191 (fuel pressure sensor circuit range/performance), or P0231 (fuel pump secondary circuit low).

Diagnosing the Problem Before You Replace

Before you spend money on a new fuel pump, confirm that the pump is actually the problem. A simple fuel pressure test can rule out other issues. You can rent a fuel pressure gauge from most auto parts stores. Connect it to the Schrader valve on the fuel rail (if your Explorer has one) and turn the key to the "on" position. The pressure should jump to 55-65 psi and hold steady. If it reads low or drops quickly after the pump stops, the pump or pressure regulator is failing.

Also check the fuel pump relay and fuse. These are located in the fuse box under the hood or inside the cabin. A blown fuse or bad relay can mimic a dead pump. Swap the relay with an identical one from another circuit (like the horn) and see if the pump starts working.

Do not forget the fuel filter. A clogged fuel filter can cause symptoms identical to a bad pump. On the 2013 Explorer, the fuel filter is often integrated into the pump module, so replacing the module addresses both components at once.

Replacement Cost Breakdown

The total cost to replace the fuel pump on a 2013 Ford Explorer ranges from $600 to $1,000 at a professional shop. Here is how that breaks down:

Parts cost: The fuel pump assembly itself ranges from $81 for an aftermarket unit to over $470 for a genuine Ford OEM part. A mid-range aftermarket unit from a reputable brand like Spectra Premium or Delphi costs $100-$200. Genuine Ford parts from the dealer run $286 to $470 depending on the specific part number. You also need a new fuel tank seal ring, which costs about $10-$20, and potentially new tank straps if the originals are rusted.

Labor cost: Professional labor accounts for the majority of the bill. Most shops charge $300-$600 for labor alone, based on 4-7 hours at $75-$150 per hour. The job is labor-intensive because the fuel tank must be lowered or removed to access the pump. Dealerships typically charge more than independent shops.

Additional costs: You may need to pay for a fuel system diagnostic ($50-$150) if you bring the vehicle in for troubleshooting. Some shops charge extra for disposal of old fuel and parts. If the tank has rust or debris, a tank cleaning may be necessary, adding $100-$200.

DIY cost: If you do the work yourself, you save the labor cost. Your out-of-pocket expense is $81-$470 for the part plus $20-$40 for specialty tools like a fuel line disconnect tool set and a brass punch for the retaining ring. You also need a transmission jack or sturdy floor jack to safely lower the tank.

Step-by-Step Replacement Overview

Replacing the fuel pump on a 2013 Ford Explorer is an advanced DIY job. If you have mechanical experience and a safe workspace, here is what the process involves:

Step 1: Prepare the vehicle. Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and run the fuel tank as low as possible. Less fuel makes the tank lighter and safer to handle. Disconnect the negative battery cable with an 8mm socket.

Step 2: Relieve fuel pressure. Locate the fuel pump fuse in the fuse box and remove it. Start the engine and let it idle until it stalls from fuel starvation. Crank the engine for a few more seconds to clear remaining pressure. Open the fuel filler cap carefully.

Step 3: Raise and support the vehicle. Use a floor jack and jack stands rated for the vehicle weight. Make sure the vehicle is stable before working underneath.

Step 4: Remove underbody shields. Use a socket set to remove any plastic or metal shields blocking access to the fuel tank. On all-wheel-drive models, check for exhaust and driveshaft clearance.

Step 5: Support the fuel tank. Place a transmission jack or a wide-support floor jack under the fuel tank. Raise it just enough to hold the tank securely. Never let the tank hang by the hoses or straps.

Step 6: Disconnect filler neck and vent hoses. Use a flat trim tool to release clamps and retainers. Disconnect the fuel filler neck, vent hoses, and evaporative emission lines. Label each connection so it goes back correctly.

Step 7: Disconnect electrical connectors and fuel lines. Use a fuel line disconnect tool set to release the fuel supply and return lines. Disconnect the fuel pump electrical connector. Have a fuel-safe drain pan and shop rags ready for spilled fuel.

Step 8: Lower the fuel tank. Remove the tank strap bolts with a socket and ratchet. Lower the tank slowly with the jack. Check one more time that no hoses or wires are still attached.

Step 9: Remove the old pump module. Clean the top of the tank with shop air or a brush. Use a brass punch and non-sparking hammer to rotate the lock ring counterclockwise. Lift the old pump module out carefully. Remove the old seal ring from the tank opening.

Step 10: Install the new pump module. Install the new seal ring on the tank opening. Lower the new pump module into the tank in the same orientation as the old one. Install and lock the retaining ring fully. Torque to factory specification if available.

Step 11: Reinstall everything in reverse order. Raise the tank slowly, reconnect fuel lines, electrical connectors, and hoses. Reinstall underbody shields. Lower the vehicle and connect the battery. Turn the key to the "on" position without starting the engine to prime the fuel system. Check for leaks before driving.

Should You Buy OEM, Aftermarket, or Used?

Genuine Ford OEM parts are the most expensive option but offer guaranteed fit and factory warranty coverage. The Ford part number DB5Z-9H307-C is the correct assembly for most 2013 Explorer models with the 3.5L engine. OEM parts cost $286 to $470 but provide peace of mind and are backed by Ford's factory warranty. If you plan to keep your Explorer for many years, OEM is a solid choice.

Aftermarket parts from brands like Spectra Premium, Delphi, Airtex, and Carter offer comparable quality at lower prices. Many aftermarket pumps are built to OEM specifications and include the same components: pump, sending unit, float arm, and seal. Prices range from $81 to $200. The trade-off is that aftermarket pumps may have shorter warranties (typically 1-2 years) and may not match the exact fit of OEM parts in some cases.

Used or "salvage" parts are the cheapest option at $50-$150, but they come with significant risk. A used pump may have unknown mileage and wear. You could be installing a pump that is already halfway through its service life. Most salvage yards offer only a 30-day warranty. This option is best for temporary repairs or if you are on a very tight budget.

Tips to Extend Fuel Pump Life

Once you install a new fuel pump, you can take simple steps to maximize its lifespan. These habits also help you avoid premature failure in your current pump:

Keep your tank at least a quarter full. The fuel pump relies on gasoline to cool and lubricate its internal components. Running the tank low frequently causes the pump to run hot and wear faster. Make it a habit to refill when the gauge hits one-quarter.

Use quality fuel from reputable stations. Cheap or contaminated fuel contains water, dirt, and other impurities that clog the pump strainer and damage the pump motor. Stick with major brands that maintain clean storage tanks.

Replace the fuel filter on schedule. If your vehicle has a serviceable fuel filter, change it every 30,000 miles or as recommended in your owner's manual. A clogged filter forces the pump to work harder.

Do not ignore warning signs. As soon as you notice hesitation, hard starting, or unusual noise, have the fuel system checked. Early diagnosis can save you from being stranded and may prevent damage to other fuel system components.

Consider using a fuel system cleaner. Add a quality fuel system cleaner to your tank every 5,000 miles to keep the injectors and pump free of deposits. This is especially important for direct-injection engines like the 3.5L EcoBoost.

Final Verdict

Your 2013 Ford Explorer fuel pump is a critical component that directly affects drivability and reliability. The symptoms of failure are clear: hard starting, hesitation, loss of power, whining noise, and poor fuel economy. Replacement costs $600-$1,000 at a shop, or $81-$470 if you DIY. The job requires dropping the fuel tank and takes 4-7 hours.

For the best value, choose a high-quality aftermarket pump that matches OEM specifications. KEMSO offers an excellent option with its OEM replacement fuel pump, high-performance construction, and lifetime warranty. Whether you do the work yourself or hire a professional, investing in a quality pump ensures your Explorer stays reliable for years to come.

Order your KEMSO fuel pump today at https://www.kemsoracing.com/ and get back on the road with confidence.

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