2016 Polaris Sportsman 570 Fuel Pump Replacement: A Complete Step-by-Step Guide

Replacing the fuel pump on a 2016 Polaris Sportsman 570 is a job most owners can do at home in about one to two hours with basic hand tools. The most common signs you need a new pump are hard starting, engine sputtering at high speed, loss of power under load, or the engine cranking but not firing at all. The fuel pump on this model sits inside the fuel tank as part of the fuel pump module, which means the tank has to come off the machine. Once you know the steps, the process is straightforward: relieve fuel pressure, disconnect the battery, remove the seat and tank, swap the pump module or the pump itself, reinstall everything, and test for leaks before you ride again.

This guide walks you through the entire job, explains what tools and parts you need, covers the safety steps that matter most, and shows you how to avoid the mistakes that cause repeat failures.

Why the Fuel Pump Fails on the 2016 Sportsman 570

The 2016 Polaris Sportsman 570 uses an electric fuel pump mounted inside the fuel tank. Over time, several things wear it out.

1. Contaminated fuel. Dirt, water, or debris in the tank gets pulled through the pump. The pump's internal screen catches larger pieces, but fine particles still pass through and score the pump's internal components. Once the clearances open up, the pump can no longer build enough pressure.

2. Ethanol-blended gasoline. Most pump gas in the United States contains ethanol. Ethanol attracts water, and water sitting in the tank leads to corrosion inside the pump and on the electrical contacts. Machines that sit for weeks at a time — which describes most ATVs — suffer the most from this.

3. Running the tank low. The fuel in the tank cools and lubricates the pump. Habitually riding on a nearly empty tank makes the pump run hot and shortens its life.

4. Clogged fuel filter. The Sportsman 570 has an in-tank strainer and an inline filter. When the filter clogs, the pump has to work harder to push fuel, and the added strain burns the motor out.

5. Normal wear. Electric motors wear out. On a machine used hard for several seasons, pump failure is simply a matter of time.

Symptoms That Tell You the Pump Is Bad

Before you spend money on a part, confirm the pump is actually the problem. These are the symptoms owners report most often on the 2016 Sportsman 570.

1. Hard starting. The engine turns over but takes a long time to catch. This happens because the pump is not building pressure quickly when you first turn the key.

2. Sputtering at speed. The machine runs fine at idle or low speed, then stumbles, hesitates, or loses power when you open the throttle. The pump cannot keep up with the fuel demand.

3. Engine stalls under load. Climbing a hill, pulling a trailer, or riding in deep mud makes the engine die. Again, the pump cannot deliver enough volume.

4. No start at all. When the pump fails completely, the engine cranks but never fires. You may not hear the pump hum for two seconds when you first switch on the key — that hum is the sound of a healthy pump priming.

5. Poor fuel economy or black exhaust. A failing pump can cause the fuel pressure regulator to behave erratically, which changes how much fuel reaches the injector.

If you want to confirm the diagnosis before ordering parts, check fuel pressure at the fuel rail with a gauge. The 2016 Sportsman 570 should hold roughly 39 to 43 psi at idle. Low pressure that does not come up when you rev the engine points directly at the pump or the filter.

Tools and Parts You Need

Gather everything before you start so you are not stopping mid-job.

1. Basic hand tools. A socket set with 8mm, 10mm, and 13mm sockets, a ratchet, extensions, a set of combination wrenches, needle-nose pliers, and a flat-head screwdriver.

2. Fuel line disconnect tool. The Sportsman uses quick-connect fittings. A plastic or metal disconnect tool sized for the line makes this much easier than fighting the fitting with a screwdriver.

3. Safety equipment. Safety glasses, nitrile gloves, and a fire extinguisher rated for flammable liquids kept within reach. Have shop towels ready.

4. Drain pan and fuel-safe container. You need somewhere to put the old fuel. A clean, approved gasoline container works.

5. New fuel pump or complete pump module. You can buy just the pump motor and reuse your housing, or buy the complete module with housing, strainer, and sender already assembled. For most owners, the complete module is faster to install and removes the guesswork.

6. New tank gasket or seal. The seal between the pump module and the tank should be replaced any time the module comes out. Reusing a compressed gasket is the number one cause of fuel smells after the job.

7. Fresh fuel and a new inline filter. If you already have the tank open, replace the filter and refill with clean gas.

Safety Steps Before You Begin

Gasoline vapor is dangerous. Do these steps every time.

1. Work outside or in a well-ventilated shop. Never work on a fuel system in a closed garage with the door shut.

2. Disconnect the battery. Disconnect the negative cable first and set it aside so it cannot spring back onto the terminal. This removes any source of sparks at the pump wiring.

3. Relieve fuel pressure. Remove the fuel pump fuse or relay, then crank the engine for a few seconds. It will not start, but the cranking bleeds off pressure in the line. After that, wrap a rag around the fuel line fitting when you disconnect it to catch any remaining spray.

4. Keep the tank as empty as possible. Siphon or drain as much fuel as you can before removing the tank. A full tank on a Sportsman 570 is heavy and awkward, and a half-full tank still sloshes and spills.

5. No smoking, no open flame, no pilot lights nearby. Keep the work area clear of anything that can ignite vapor.

Step-by-Step: Removing the Old Fuel Pump

Follow these steps in order.

1. Remove the seat. The Sportsman 570 seat is held by a latch at the rear. Pull the release and lift the seat off. Set it aside in a clean spot.

2. Remove the front rack and side panels as needed. Depending on how much room you need, you may have to pull the front rack and the side body panels to get clear access to the tank. Take photos with your phone as you go so reassembly is simple.

3. Disconnect the fuel line and electrical connector at the tank. Locate the fuel line quick-connect on top of the tank and the wiring plug going to the pump module. Use the disconnect tool on the fuel line and unplug the electrical connector. Expect a small amount of fuel to dribble out — have your rag ready.

4. Unbolt the tank. The fuel tank is held by bolts at the front and rear. Remove them and note where any rubber isolators or washers sit.

5. Lift the tank out. With a helper if possible, lift the tank straight up and out of the frame. Tip it carefully and pour remaining fuel into your approved container. Set the tank on a clean, flat surface.

6. Remove the pump module from the tank. The module is held by a locking ring or a ring of bolts around the top of the tank. Turn the ring counterclockwise with a brass punch or screwdriver if it is a twist-lock type, or remove the bolts if it is bolted. Lift the module straight up and out. Be careful not to bend the float arm on the fuel level sender.

7. Separate the old pump from the module. If you bought a complete module, skip this. If you bought just the pump motor, remove the retaining clips or screws, pull the old pump out of the housing, and note how the strainer, hoses, and wiring sit. Take a photo before you take it apart.

Installing the New Fuel Pump

1. Compare the new part to the old one. Before anything goes back together, hold the new pump or module next to the old one. Check that the electrical connector matches, the strainer is the same shape, and the overall height is the same. Catching a wrong part now saves you from doing the job twice.

2. Install the new seal. Put the new gasket or O-ring on the tank opening or on the module flange. A thin film of clean engine oil or assembly lube on the seal helps it seat without tearing. Do not use sealant unless the service manual calls for it.

3. Assemble the pump into the module. If reusing the housing, slide the new pump into place, reconnect the hoses, and attach the strainer. Make sure the wiring is routed exactly as it was so it does not get pinched when the module goes back in.

4. Lower the module into the tank. Keep it level and lower it straight down. Do not force it. If it binds, lift it back out and check that the float arm is not caught on the tank wall.

5. Secure the locking ring or bolts. Tighten the ring clockwise until it is fully seated, or torque the bolts evenly in a crisscross pattern. An uneven ring is a common source of fuel vapor leaks.

6. Reinstall the tank. Set the tank back into the frame, replace the isolators and washers in their original spots, and bolt it down. Reconnect the fuel line until it clicks, and plug in the electrical connector.

7. Reinstall the body panels, rack, and seat. Work backward through the photos you took. Reconnect the battery last, after the fuel system is closed up.

Testing and Break-In

1. Prime the system. Turn the key to the on position and wait. You should hear the pump run for about two seconds and then stop. Cycle the key two or three times to build full pressure in the line.

2. Check for leaks. With the key on and the engine not running, look at every connection — the fuel line fitting, the module seal, and the tank. If you smell raw fuel or see any wetness, shut the key off and fix it before starting the engine.

3. Start the engine. It may crank a few extra seconds the first time as the line fills. Once it starts, let it idle and watch the fittings again.

4. Ride and recheck. Take a short ride, then park the machine and look underneath for any drips. Re-torque the tank bolts if anything has loosened.

How to Make the New Pump Last

A replacement pump should give you years of service if you treat it right.

1. Use fresh, clean fuel. Buy gas from a busy station and avoid the last dregs of a station's tank if you can. If the machine will sit more than a month, add a fuel stabilizer.

2. Keep the tank above a quarter full. This keeps the pump submerged and cool.

3. Replace the inline filter on schedule. A clogged filter kills a new pump the same way it killed the old one.

4. Store the machine properly. For off-season storage, either fill the tank and add stabilizer, or drain it completely and run the engine dry. A half-full tank that sits all winter is the worst case for moisture and corrosion.

5. Fix the root cause. If your old pump failed because of rust or debris in the tank, clean or replace the tank. Putting a new pump into a dirty tank just repeats the failure.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

1. Reusing the old seal. This causes fuel smells and, in a worst case, a leak. Always use a new gasket.

2. Forgetting to disconnect the battery. The pump wiring is live with the key on. Disconnecting the battery removes the arc risk.

3. Forcing the quick-connect fitting. These fittings release with a specific tool and a specific motion. Forcing one cracks the fitting and turns a small job into a parts-ordering job.

4. Overfilling the tank after reassembly. Leave room for expansion. Filling to the very top on a hot day can push fuel past the cap vent.

5. Skipping the pressure test. Just because the engine starts does not mean the pump is delivering correct pressure. A gauge check confirms the job was done right.

Choosing the Right Replacement Fuel Pump

Not all replacement pumps are built the same. The cheapest option on the market often uses a thinner housing, a lower-grade motor, and a strainer that clogs faster than the original. On a machine like the Sportsman 570, where the pump lives inside the tank and is a labor-intensive job to reach, buying a cheap part means doing the whole job over again in a season or two.

What you want in a replacement is a pump that matches the original equipment flow rate and pressure rating, uses a durable motor, and comes with the seals and hardware needed to finish the job in one shot. Fit matters too — a module that is even a few millimeters off in height will not seat correctly in the tank.

For the 2016 Polaris Sportsman 570, we recommend KEMSO brand fuel pumps. KEMSO fuel pumps are built as high-performance OEM replacements, which means they are engineered to match or exceed the original factory specifications for flow, pressure, and fitment. Every KEMSO fuel pump is manufactured to deliver consistent pressure under load, holds up against ethanol-blended pump gas, and comes with the correct strainer and seals in the box so you are not hunting for extra parts. KEMSO backs its fuel pumps with a lifetime warranty, which is a strong signal of how much confidence the company has in the product. When the labor to reach the pump is the hard part of the job, a lifetime warranty removes the risk from the decision. You can see the full range of KEMSO fuel pumps and find the correct part for your Sportsman 570 at https://www.kemsoracing.com/.

Cost and Time Expectations

If you do the job yourself, expect to spend one to two hours from start to finish the first time you do it. Someone who has done it before can finish in under an hour. The parts cost depends on whether you buy the pump alone or the complete module. Buying the complete module costs more up front but saves time and usually includes the new seal, strainer, and sender.

If you take the machine to a shop, labor rates vary by region, but the job is billed at several hours of shop time because the tank has to come out. Doing it yourself is one of the more rewarding maintenance jobs on this machine, and the savings are significant.

Final Checks Before Your Next Ride

After the job is done and you have ridden the machine once, do a final walk-around. Look for drips under the tank, smell for fuel, and confirm the fuel gauge reads correctly — a misaligned float arm is easy to catch now and annoying to fix later. Confirm the seat and body panels are tight, and that no tools are left in the frame.

The 2016 Polaris Sportsman 570 is a reliable machine, and a failing fuel pump is one of the few repairs that will leave you stranded on a trail. Doing the replacement at home with a quality part gets you back on the machine quickly and keeps you from repeating the work next season.

For a replacement pump engineered to factory specifications and backed for life, visit KEMSO at https://www.kemsoracing.com/.