1994 Ford Explorer Fuel Pump Relay Location: Your Complete Guide (Under Dash Near Parking Brake)

The 1994 Ford Explorer fuel pump relay is located under the driver's side dashboard, specifically mounted on the cabin fuse panel bracket near the parking brake pedal assembly. Finding this essential relay is the critical first step in diagnosing or fixing a non-starting Explorer. This guide provides clear, detailed instructions based on its exact factory position.

What is the Fuel Pump Relay and Why Finding It Matters

The fuel pump relay acts like a switch commanded by your Explorer’s computer (PCM). When you turn the ignition key to "Run" or "Start," the PCM sends a signal to the relay. The relay then closes its internal circuit, sending full battery power directly to the electric fuel pump inside the gas tank. Without this relay functioning correctly, no power reaches the pump, meaning no fuel reaches the engine. Identifying its specific location is paramount for accurate troubleshooting when you experience symptoms like:

  • Engine cranks but does not start.
  • No humming sound from the rear (fuel tank area) for 2-3 seconds when turning the ignition key to "Run."
  • Intermittent starting problems, often worsening over time.

Accessing the Critical Fuse Panel Area

Reaching the 1994 Explorer's fuel pump relay requires maneuvering under the driver’s side dashboard:

  1. Position Yourself: Sit in the driver's seat or kneel on the ground outside the open driver's door. You need clear access and visibility under the dash.
  2. Locate the Parking Brake Pedal Assembly: Identify the parking brake pedal (the smaller pedal to the far left of the brake pedal). Its mounting bracket extends upwards into the under-dash space.
  3. Identify the Cabin Fuse Panel Bracket: Directly above and slightly behind the top of the parking brake pedal bracket, you will find a large, flat, usually black or dark grey metal bracket mounted vertically or at an angle against the firewall or dash support structure. This bracket holds several fuses and relays for cabin functions.
  4. Understand the Layout: The fuse panel bracket houses multiple relays and fuses. It is not the power distribution box under the hood near the battery, nor is it behind the fuse panel cover located on the driver's side door sill/kick panel.

Finding the Fuel Pump Relay Itself

Once you're looking at the cabin fuse panel bracket near the parking brake assembly, identify the relay:

  1. Look for the Relay Label: Ford often prints labels directly on the bracket near each relay socket or on a sticker nearby. Scan these labels carefully.
  2. Identify Key Labels: Look specifically for the labels "Fuel Pump," "PCM Relay," "EEC Relay," or "FP." The most common label for this relay on a 1994 Explorer is "PCM Relay" or "EEC Relay."
    • Crucial Point: In the 1994 Explorer (and many Fords of this era), the fuel pump relay shares its power supply circuit with the Powertrain Control Module (PCM, also called the EEC-IV computer). Therefore, the relay powering both is typically labeled "PCM" or "EEC". This "PCM Relay" is the fuel pump relay.
  3. Locate the Relay Position: Based on common configurations and verified locations for 1994 models:
    • Relative to Parking Brake: The relay is mounted on the bracket above and slightly behind the top pivot point of the parking brake pedal arm.
    • Common Cluster Spot: It is often found clustered with other critical relays like the Horn Relay and Starter Relay. Look for a standard ISO mini relay.
    • Visual Confirmation: Compare the relay in the suspected slot to a known standard automotive relay. It has 4 or 5 blade terminals on the bottom.
  4. Physical Description: The relay itself is a small, square or rectangular black plastic component, roughly 1 inch x 1 inch (2.5 cm x 2.5 cm), with blade-type connectors. The critical identifying factor is its position within the fuse panel bracket and the label ("PCM," "EEC," etc.) adjacent to its socket.

Testing and Replacing the 1994 Explorer Fuel Pump Relay

Once located:

  1. Remove Carefully: Squeeze any locking tabs and pull the relay straight out of its socket.
  2. Visual Inspection: Check for melted plastic, cracks, or burnt smell. Severe damage is obvious. Light corrosion on the blades can be cleaned with electrical contact cleaner and a brass brush.
  3. Listen & Feel Test:
    • Have a helper turn the ignition key to "Run" (not Start).
    • Feel the relay; you should hear and feel a distinct "click" within 2 seconds. No click strongly suggests a faulty relay or a problem with the PCM signal.
  4. Swap Test (Safest Practical Test):
    • Locate another relay on the same bracket that looks identical (often the Horn Relay or Starter Relay – identify the correct one by its label).
    • Swap the suspected fuel pump (PCM) relay with this identical relay.
    • Turn the ignition key to "Run." If the fuel pump now buzzes, the original relay is faulty.
    • Test the horn (if you swapped with the horn relay); if the horn no longer works, it confirms the swapped relay is good and the original PCM relay was likely bad.
  5. Electrical Testing (Multimeter Recommended):
    • Locate the relay socket diagram label on the bracket or check factory service documentation.
    • With the key OFF, test socket terminals for ground (typically one terminal). Resistance to clean chassis metal should be near zero Ohms.
    • Test for constant Battery Positive (B+) power (usually another terminal). Should read battery voltage (~12.6V) at all times.
    • Test for switched ignition power (key in "Run") to the signal coil terminal. Should show battery voltage only in "Run" or "Start."
    • Test the fuel pump power output terminal while cranking or with the relay "clicking" (use a helper). Should show battery voltage.
    • Test continuity across the relay switch terminals when the relay is activated (often requires applying 12V to the coil terminals with fused jumper wires off the vehicle if bench testing).
  6. Replacement:
    • Use the Correct Relay: Install a new standard ISO 280 MINI type relay. Confirm it matches the old one physically and electrically (check terminal numbering).
    • Confirm Orientation: Align the relay blades with the socket slots and push firmly until seated and locked.
    • Test: Turn the key to "Run" and listen for the fuel pump prime. Attempt to start the engine.

Addressing "It's Not There!" Frustration & Common Mistakes

  • Mistake 1: Checking the Power Distribution Box (PDB) under the hood. This box contains high-current fuses (including one vital for the fuel pump circuit) and relays primarily for engine bay components like cooling fans or main power, not the cabin relays. The fuel pump relay is cabin-mounted near the parking brake.
  • Mistake 2: Assuming it's behind the kick panel fuse cover. The low dash fuse panel cover on the driver's side kick panel usually houses smaller fuses and potentially a different set of relays (like power windows, radio memory), not the primary powertrain relays.
  • Mistake 3: Not looking high enough above the parking brake pedal. Crouch down and look upwards behind the top of the pedal arm. A flashlight is essential.
  • Mistake 4: Misidentifying the "PCM" or "EEC" relay. Remember, this is the one. It controls PCM power AND the fuel pump via a shared circuit. It's the primary relay for engine operation initiation.
  • Mistake 5: Giving up before removing under-dash panels. While sometimes accessible without removal, obstructions like trim panels under the steering column often require removing a few screws/clips for better access and light. Don't force panels; find the fasteners.

Important Safety Warnings

  1. Disconnect the Battery: Always disconnect the negative battery cable before working on electrical components to prevent shorts, sparks, or accidental airbag deployment.
  2. Fire Hazard: Fuel system work requires caution. Never test or bypass the fuel pump near open flames, sparks, or intense heat. Have a fire extinguisher rated for electrical and fuel fires readily available.
  3. Eye Protection: Wear safety glasses when working under the dash to protect against falling debris.
  4. Correct Tools: Use a flashlight with a secure mounting option (headlamp is ideal). Use the properly sized Phillips screwdriver for trim screws (often #2 Phillips, but size varies) to avoid stripping screw heads.
  5. Diagnosis: While the relay is a common failure point, don't assume it's the only problem. A blown fuse (especially the 15A or 20A fuse powering the relay's control side - often located on the cabin fuse bracket too, or the high-current 20A fuse protecting the pump power circuit usually in the PDB under the hood), bad wiring, or a failed fuel pump or PCM issue can cause identical symptoms. Methodically test using the steps above.
  6. Quality Parts: Avoid the cheapest generic relays. Use relays meeting Ford specifications or known quality brands (e.g., Bosch, Omron, standard Motorcraft replacements like DY894) for reliability.

By precisely locating the 1994 Explorer fuel pump relay ("PCM Relay") near the parking brake pedal on the under-dash fuse panel bracket and using careful diagnostic steps, you can effectively troubleshoot and resolve many no-start issues, restoring reliability to your classic SUV. Patience and careful observation under the dash are key to success.

Back to blog