1995 Ford F150 Fuel Pump Relay Location: Exactly Where to Find It

The fuel pump relay for your 1995 Ford F150 is located inside the under-hood Power Distribution Center (PDC), specifically in position number 13. This black box is found near the battery on the driver's side fender apron. Knowing precisely where this critical relay resides is the first step in diagnosing and resolving fuel delivery issues common on these trucks.

Finding it quickly can mean the difference between a simple roadside fix and an expensive tow. A failed relay mimics symptoms of a dead fuel pump or other complex failures – knowing its exact spot saves time, money, and frustration. This guide cuts straight to the point, detailing its location, how to identify it, what it looks like, how to test it, and essential safety precautions for 1995 F150 owners tackling this repair themselves.

The Power Distribution Center (PDC) – Your Relay's Home

  1. Where to Look: Pop the hood of your 1995 F150. Stand facing the engine bay. Locate the battery on the driver's side (left-hand side) of the engine compartment. Directly next to the battery (towards the front of the truck), mounted on the inner fender apron (the vertical metal wall running beside the engine), you will see a relatively large, black rectangular or square plastic box. This is the Power Distribution Center (PDC), sometimes referred to as the main fuse and relay box or the battery junction box.
  2. Opening the PDC: The PDC has a lid secured with simple latches, usually tabs you squeeze or pull upwards. Carefully unclip and remove this lid to reveal the inner contents.

Identifying Relay Position #13 Inside the PDC

  1. The Diagram is Key: On the underside of the PDC lid you just removed, or sometimes molded directly onto the top edge of the PDC housing itself, is a crucial diagram. This diagram is a map labeling the purpose and position of every fuse and relay housed inside the box. This is your definitive reference guide.
  2. Find Position #13: Study this diagram intently. Look for the section indicating relay positions (they are distinct from fuse positions). Scan the labels specifically for "Fuel Pump", "FP", "Fuel Pump Relay", or sometimes just "Relay 13". You will see that it corresponds to position number 13 within the grid of slots inside the PDC.
  3. Locating #13 Inside the Box: Look inside the now uncovered PDC. You'll see numerous fuses and several relays (usually cube-shaped components) plugged into various slots. Orient yourself using the diagram. Count the positions if necessary, matching them to the diagram's grid. Position #13 will contain the fuel pump relay.

What Does the 1995 F150 Fuel Pump Relay Look Like?

The relay itself is a small, typically black cube-shaped component, made of plastic, about 1 to 1.5 inches square. It has four prongs or metal legs (terminals) protruding from the bottom that plug into the socket. Its top might be slightly domed. Often, the number "13" or "F/P" is molded into the plastic housing near its base. It's indistinguishable from other similarly sized relays in the PDC by looks alone – position #13 and the diagram label are the ONLY reliable identifiers.

Confirming You Have the Right Relay (Quick Check)

With the ignition in the OFF position, you can carefully remove and re-seat the relay in slot #13 (see removal instructions below). When you turn the ignition key to the RUN position (but DO NOT start the engine), you should hear a distinct, audible "click" from the relay as it energizes for 1-2 seconds (this primes the fuel system). You might also hear the fuel pump itself hum briefly from under the truck near the fuel tank. Turning the key OFF should produce another audible relay click as it de-energizes.

How to Remove the 1995 F150 Fuel Pump Relay

  1. Safety First: Turn the ignition OFF and remove the key. For maximum safety, disconnect the negative (-) terminal of the battery. Use the appropriate wrench (usually 8mm or 10mm).
  2. Access: Ensure the PDC lid is off and you've positively identified relay position #13.
  3. Grip Firmly: Grasp the relay body firmly by its sides. Your fingers might need to curl under the top edge slightly.
  4. Pull Straight Up: Apply even, vertical pressure straight upwards. Do not rock, twist, or bend the relay. The fit can be snug, especially on older vehicles – wiggling very slightly while pulling directly upwards is usually sufficient.
  5. Out: The relay should slide out of its socket smoothly.

Testing the 1995 F150 Fuel Pump Relay

Don't just replace the relay blindly. Testing confirms if it's truly faulty. You have options:

  1. Swap Test:
    • This is often the quickest and easiest method, provided there's an identical spare relay location in your specific truck. Your '95 F150 PDC contains multiple identical-looking relays performing different functions. CRITICAL: Consult your PDC diagram to find a relay rated for the same amperage and using the same terminal pattern (e.g., "Mini ISO" standard) as the Fuel Pump Relay (#13). Common candidates include the horn relay, A/C clutch relay, or blower motor relay – but ONLY if your diagram confirms they are identical in function/spec. Do NOT swap in a relay designed for a different circuit (like a fuse link or maxi fuse).
    • Remove this confirmed identical spare relay from its slot.
    • Remove the suspected bad fuel pump relay (#13).
    • Insert the known good spare relay into the Fuel Pump slot (#13).
    • Turn the ignition to RUN. Listen for the relay click and/or fuel pump hum.
    • If the pump now runs when it previously didn't, the original relay was likely faulty.
    • Important: If the pump still doesn't run, and the relay doesn't click, the problem could still lie elsewhere (like a circuit issue or the pump itself), BUT you have now verified the original relay is suspect until proven otherwise. Reverse the swap when done.
  2. Using a Multimeter (Ohmmeter):
    • Remove the relay.
    • Identify the terminals: Look closely at the bottom. There are two terminals for the control coil (low current) and two for the switched circuit (high current). Often, terminals 85 and 86 are the coil, while 87 and 30 are the switched contacts. The relay housing might have a tiny diagram molded into it, or the terminals might be numbered. Search online for "standard auto relay terminal diagram" for confirmation.
    • Set your multimeter to measure resistance (Ohms Ω).
    • Test the Coil: Place multimeter probes on terminals 85 and 86. A good coil will show moderate resistance, typically between 50 and 200 Ohms. An open circuit (infinite resistance, OL or 0L on the meter) indicates a bad coil inside the relay. A near-zero reading indicates a shorted coil – also bad.
    • Test the Switched Contacts: Place probes on terminals 30 and 87. Normally (relay de-energized), these contacts should be open circuit (infinite resistance, OL/0L). With no power applied, it's like an open switch.
    • Test the Contact Operation: Using fused jumper wires or a small 12V power source (like a 9V battery or power probe), apply 12 volts to the coil terminals (85 and 86 - polarity usually doesn't matter for the test). You should hear and feel an audible "click".
    • While power is applied to the coil, measure resistance between 30 and 87. It should now read very low resistance (nearly 0 Ohms). Remove the power from the coil; the relay should click again, and the resistance between 30 and 87 should return to infinite (OL/0L).
    • Failed Test: No click, coil doesn't show resistance in range, contacts don't open/close properly with power applied = Bad relay.
  3. Testing While Installed (Power Test): Requires caution with live circuits.
    • Reconnect battery negative terminal. Ignition OFF.
    • Find a wiring diagram or identify wire colors to relevant pins in the relay socket (not the relay itself). Pin 87 (power output to pump) is usually Green/Yellow (GY) wire, pin 85 or 86 (control ground) is usually Black/Light Green (BK/LG). This varies; consult a manual if possible. Knowing you have power going IN to the relay (pin 30) and the coil control signal activating are the key points.
    • Carefully back-probe the relay socket wires related to the coil circuit (likely pins 85 and 86) using multimeter probes without causing shorts. Set meter to Volts DC.
    • Turn ignition to RUN. You should measure ≈12 volts across pins 85 and 86 for 1-2 seconds (difference between the control feed and ground, or ≈0V difference if fed by PCM). If you have no voltage here when the key is in RUN, the problem is in the control circuit before the relay (inertia switch, PCM, wiring).
    • Back-probe the wire in the relay socket for terminal #30 (high current feed IN). You should have constant battery voltage here (≈12.6V+) whether the ignition is ON or OFF. Use a ground point on the engine/chassis. If NO voltage here, the problem is a blown high-current fuse or wiring issue feeding the PDC.
    • Back-probe the wire for terminal #87 (high current output TO the pump). With ignition in RUN, you should have ≈12 volts for 1-2 seconds. If you have power at #30, the coil is receiving its activation signal (you measured voltage across 85/86 earlier), but NO power at #87, then the relay's internal contacts are bad.

What If My F150 Is Different? Addressing 1995 Specifics and Variations

The location for the 1995 F150 is well-established as position #13 in the driver's side PDC. However, always remember these points:

  • Always Verify With Your Diagram: Ford did occasionally make minor revisions during a model year, or previous owners may have modified wiring. The label under your PDC lid is absolute. Rely on it.
  • Engine Size Doesn't Matter: Whether you have the 4.9L (300) I6, 5.0L (302) V8, or 5.8L (351) V8, the fuel pump relay resides in the same PDC slot #13.
  • Cab/Bed Configuration Doesn't Matter: Styleside, Flareside, Regular Cab, SuperCab – the relay location remains the same.
  • Different Years? Significant Changes: This guide is specifically for the 1995 Ford F150. While similar on the surface, the relay location changed significantly for the redesigned 1997 F-150 ("10th generation"). Earlier models like the 1994 F150 used a similar PDC layout to the '95, but the relay designation might be slightly different – never assume without checking the diagram.

Safety Precautions When Working on the Fuel System

  • Fire Hazard: Gasoline is extremely flammable. Working on fuel pumps and relays carries risk. Work outdoors or in a well-ventilated area away from sparks, flames, or hot surfaces. Do NOT smoke.
  • Pressure Release: The fuel system retains pressure even when the engine is off. Before opening any fuel line connection (though usually unnecessary for just relay work), depressurize the system. On the '95 F150, there is often a Schrader valve (like a tire valve) on the fuel rail. Wrap a rag around it and carefully depress the center pin to release pressure. Catch the fuel safely.
  • Electrical Safety: Disconnect the battery negative terminal before removing the relay if doing an extended test or wiring work. Avoid sparks near the battery and fuel lines.
  • Eye Protection: Wear safety glasses, especially when working under the hood or under the vehicle near the fuel tank.
  • Respect Relays: While testing relays with a multimeter is safe when the relay is removed, probing live circuits requires caution and knowledge to avoid shorts and damage. If unsure about voltage testing, stick to the swap test or ohmmeter test on the bench.
  • Use Proper Tools: Use appropriate screwdrivers and wrenches. Avoid using excessive force.

Beyond the Relay: Other Causes of No Fuel Pump Operation

A bad relay is a common culprit, but not the only one. If you've confirmed the relay is good and the pump still doesn't run or has intermittent issues, investigate these components:

  1. Fuel Pump Fuse: Located in the same PDC. Check the diagram – it's usually a 20 Amp or 30 Amp fuse. Check it visually and with a multimeter for continuity. Replace if blown. Note: Always find and check the specific "Fuel Pump" fuse using your PDC lid diagram.
  2. Fuel Pump Inertia Safety Switch: Designed to cut power to the fuel pump in the event of a collision. Sometimes they trip accidentally due to a bump or vibration. On the 1995 F150, it's located inside the passenger side kick panel, near the right foot well. To access it, pop off the plastic cover at the bottom of the kick panel area on the passenger's side near the door opening. You'll see a small button. Press the reset button down firmly. (A very common reason for sudden unexpected no-start on F150s).
  3. Fuel Pump Itself: Located inside the fuel tank. The relay clicking doesn't guarantee the pump is good; it only means the pump is being commanded to run. The pump motor can burn out, its internal connections can corrode, or it can get clogged. Confirming power and ground at the pump harness connector under the truck near the tank is the next diagnostic step if the relay, fuse, and inertia switch are confirmed good.
  4. Wiring Harness and Connectors: Wiring can chafe, corrode, or break. Key trouble spots are the harness passing from the frame over the top of the fuel tank, connectors near the tank, and ground connections. Corrosion in the PDC relay socket terminals is also possible.
  5. Powertrain Control Module (PCM): The PCM controls grounding the fuel pump relay coil. If the PCM doesn't see the right signals (like the crank sensor or cam sensor during cranking) or if the PCM relay/fuses are bad, it won't activate the fuel pump relay beyond the initial prime. PCM failure is less common than wiring or sensor issues preventing activation.

Replacing the 1995 Ford F150 Fuel Pump Relay

  1. Acquire Replacement: Purchase a standard ISO Mini relay. Ford part numbers like F1DZ-9345-AA (Motorcraft: DY-986) are original spec, but universal Bosch-style, BWD R3137, or other trusted brands are readily available at auto parts stores. Confirm the pin orientation matches your old relay.
  2. Installation: With the ignition OFF (and battery disconnected for safety, though usually possible without), align the new relay's prongs correctly over the socket in position #13. Press down firmly and evenly until the relay is fully seated. You should feel and hear it click into place. Ensure it sits flush like the others.
  3. Test: Reconnect the battery if disconnected. Turn ignition to RUN and listen for the relay click and (if possible) the pump hum for 1-2 seconds. Attempt to start the engine.

Final Confirmation and Peace of Mind

Finding and addressing the fuel pump relay in your 1995 Ford F150 is a straightforward yet vital piece of DIY repair. By heading straight to the Power Distribution Center next to the battery, checking position #13 confirmed by the diagram under the lid, you bypass hours of guesswork. Whether you use the simple swap test with a compatible relay (like the horn) or verify it electrically, resolving a bad relay gets your F150 back on the road fast and saves you the cost of a mechanic doing the same checks. Remember the critical safety steps when dealing with fuel and electricity. If your problem persists despite a good relay, systematically check the fuse, the inertia switch near the passenger's right foot, and then deeper into the wiring or the pump itself. Knowing exactly where that relay resides, position #13 in the PDC, empowers any 1995 F150 owner to tackle fuel delivery issues confidently.

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