1997 Honda Accord Fuel Pump Fuse Location & Essential Troubleshooting Guide

Definitive Answer: In a 1997 Honda Accord, the fuse protecting the electrical circuit for the fuel pump is located inside the interior fuse panel, mounted on the lower dashboard on the driver's side, below the steering column. The specific fuse is typically labeled "Fuel Pump," "FP," or "Fuel Pmp" on the fuse panel diagram and is a 15 Amp (15A) size.

Locating this fuse is crucial when diagnosing starting problems, particularly if you hear no sound from the fuel pump when you turn the ignition to the "ON" (II) position before cranking. Knowing precisely where it is saves time and frustration. This guide provides detailed, practical information based on standard configurations for this model year.

Accessing the Interior Fuse Panel

  1. Position Yourself: Sit in the driver's seat. You'll be working near your knees.
  2. Locate the Cover: Look directly below the steering wheel column on the lower part of the dashboard. You will see a rectangular, usually black or grey, plastic cover.
  3. Remove the Cover: This cover is held in place by plastic clips. Find the small finger notch (tab) usually on the bottom or side edge of the cover. Gently pull this tab downward or outward (depending on your specific model variant - DX, LX, EX, etc.). It should release easily. Place the cover aside carefully to avoid losing it.
  4. Identify the Panel: Behind the cover is the interior fuse panel. It contains numerous small fuses arranged in rows.

Identifying the Fuel Pump Fuse

  1. Locate the Diagram: The most important step! Look either:
    • On the Back of the Cover: Most commonly, a detailed diagram of all the fuses, their functions, locations, and amperage ratings is printed on the inside surface of the fuse box cover you just removed.
    • On a Label Next to the Fuses: Sometimes, an identical diagram is affixed to the dashboard plastic directly next to the fuse panel itself.
  2. Find "Fuel Pump" or "FP": Carefully examine the diagram. Search for the listing corresponding to the "Fuel Pump" or abbreviated as "FP" or "Fuel Pmp". It will indicate both the position of the fuse within the panel and its required amperage. (For a 1997 Accord, it should always be a 15 Amp fuse).
  3. Match the Position: Look at the fuse panel itself. You will see slots arranged in rows. Each slot has a unique position. Find the position number listed for the "Fuel Pump" / "FP" fuse on the diagram.
  4. Confirm Amperage: Before removing the fuse, visually confirm the amperage rating printed on the top of the fuse itself matches what your diagram states (15A). The amperage is usually marked on the colored plastic top or the metal end caps. The correct fuse color for 15A is typically blue.

Visual Inspection & Physical Identification:

  • The fuel pump fuse is a "Mini" size blade-type fuse.
  • Compare the fuse in the suspected position to a known good fuse of the same rating (like one labeled "Radio" or "Cigarette Lighter").
  • A blown fuse will often have a visible break in the thin metal strip inside the clear plastic body. Sometimes the strip appears melted, or the plastic may be cloudy or discolored.

Testing the Fuel Pump Fuse (Recommended)

Visual inspection isn't always 100% reliable. Testing is best.

  1. Multimeter Test (Continuity):
    • Turn the ignition key OFF. Remove the suspected fuel pump fuse.
    • Set a digital multimeter to continuity test mode (symbol often looks like a sound wave or diode symbol).
    • Place one probe on each of the metal end caps of the fuse.
    • A working fuse will show continuity (multimeter beeps or shows near 0 Ohms resistance). No continuity indicates a blown fuse.
  2. Multimeter Test (Voltage - Advanced):
    • Turn the ignition key to the ON (II) position (Do NOT start the engine).
    • Set the multimeter to DC Volts, 20V range.
    • Carefully back-probe both metal terminals of the fuse while it's still plugged in (use the small slots on top). WARNING: Avoid shorting probes together.
    • If the fuse is good, you should read battery voltage (approx. 12.6V) on both sides of the fuse. Voltage on only one side indicates the fuse is blown. No voltage at all indicates issues elsewhere in the circuit (like the ignition switch or upstream fuses).

Replacing the Fuel Pump Fuse

  1. Turn Ignition OFF: Ensure the key is completely removed.
  2. Ensure Correct Amperage: Crucially, replace the fuse ONLY with a new fuse of the exact same amperage rating - 15 Amps. Using a higher amp fuse (like 20A or 30A) is a serious fire hazard, as it removes vital circuit protection. Using a lower amp fuse will cause it to blow immediately.
  3. Use Proper Tool: Fuse panels often include a small plastic fuse puller tool clipped inside the box or the cover. Use this tool or needle-nose pliers with extreme care (avoid touching other metal) to grip and pull the old fuse straight out. Insert the new fuse firmly into the correct slot.
  4. Recheck Operation: Turn the ignition key to the ON (II) position. You should now hear the distinct "bzzzt" sound of the fuel pump priming for about 2 seconds from the rear of the car (near the fuel tank). This sound indicates the pump circuit is active.

Under-Hood Fuse Box Location and Related Checks

While the primary fuse for the fuel pump circuit is inside the car, the 1997 Accord also has a main fuse panel/relay box under the hood. It's essential to check related components there if the interior fuse is good but the pump still isn't running.

  • Location: Open the hood. Locate the black rectangular fuse/relay box. It's typically mounted near the battery on the driver's side front fender well. Lift the cover off.
  • Main Fuel System Protection: Inside this box, look for:
    • Under-Hood Fuse #45: Located inside this under-hood box, this 15A fuse (also labeled "FI," "ECU," or "ECM") powers the Engine Control Module (ECM/PCM) and injectors. A blown fuse here will prevent the ECM from signaling the fuel pump relay to activate, even if the pump's own fuse is good. Must be checked if the pump doesn't prime.
    • Fuel Pump Relay: Inside the same under-hood box. This relay (controlled by the ECM) provides the main power path to the fuel pump motor. If the interior fuse is good and fuse #45 is good, a faulty relay is a common cause of failure. Relays are typically identical to others in the box (like the Main Relay or Radiator Fan Relay). Swapping with a known good identical relay (after verifying its function isn't critical for a test start) is a quick diagnostic step.
    • Main Battery Fuses: Large primary fuses like the battery fuse or fuse links protect whole sections of the wiring harness. A failure here is less common but catastrophic and requires more advanced diagnosis.

Symptoms Pointing to a Blown Fuel Pump Fuse

  • Engine Cranks But Won't Start: The most obvious symptom when the fuel pump isn't running.
  • No Fuel Pump Prime Sound: When you turn the key to ON (II), you should hear a brief whirring/buzzing sound (about 2 seconds) from the fuel tank area. The absence of this sound strongly suggests no power to the fuel pump. Checking the prime sound is your first diagnostic step.
  • Sudden Stalling: While driving, if the fuse blows due to a momentary fault or short, the engine will die immediately as fuel pressure drops.
  • Recent Work: If you recently performed electrical work under the dashboard, near the rear seat (where fuel pump wires run), or even installed an aftermarket radio/stereo, it's possible a wiring short occurred, blowing the fuel pump fuse.

Why Fuses Blow: Looking Deeper

A blown fuse is a symptom, not the root cause. It indicates the circuit drew more current than the fuse rating, activating its protective function.

  1. Short Circuits: This is the most serious reason. It means a damaged wire (insulation rubbed through, pinched by a panel, rodent damage) is touching bare metal ("ground"), creating an unintended low-resistance path. Large current flows instantly, blowing the fuse. Inspect wiring visually if possible, especially after recent work. A short requires repair.
  2. Overload: A failing fuel pump motor can start drawing excessive current as its internal components deteriorate. While the fuse blows to protect the wiring, the failing pump is the core problem and needs replacement. The fuse may blow again shortly after replacement if this is the case.
  3. Electrical Faults: Issues in associated circuits (like problems with the relay or the ECM) could potentially cause irregular current draw, though less common than a pump issue or direct short.
  4. Incorrect Fuse: Placing a higher amp fuse in the slot (e.g., 30A instead of 15A) allows components or wiring to overheat and fail before the fuse blows, leading to more damage and fire risk. Always replace with the correct rating.

What to Do If the Fuse Keeps Blowing

This signals an ongoing issue requiring investigation. Avoid repeatedly replacing the fuse without finding the cause.

  1. Check for Visual Damage: Inspect the wiring harness running along the driver's side floor sill (under the door threshold) and near the rear seat bottom. Look also at the fuel pump access hatch under the rear seat cushion. Check for pinch points, chafing, or rodent damage.
  2. Consider the Fuel Pump: A seized or internally shorted pump is a prime suspect. Disconnect the wiring connector at the fuel pump access hatch. Use a multimeter to measure resistance across the pump terminals. The exact spec varies, but a reading near 0 Ohms or over 10 Ohms (or infinity) often indicates a failed pump or wiring issue. Compare values online for similar pumps or have it tested professionally. Replacing the fuse with the pump disconnected tests the wiring (if the fuse doesn't blow, the pump was likely the problem).
  3. Check Relay Contacts: While a failed relay usually just stops working, internal contacts can sometimes weld together or short internally, causing excessive current draw. Try swapping the fuel pump relay with an identical one elsewhere in the under-hood box (if safe - e.g., don't swap the starter relay!).
  4. Professional Diagnosis: If the cause isn't immediately apparent, especially with possible hidden wiring damage, seeking help from an experienced auto electrician or mechanic is highly recommended. They have tools to trace wiring faults and conduct further component testing safely.

Crucial Safety Precautions

  • Disconnect the Battery: For ANY electrical work involving fuse removal or probing circuits beyond simple fuse replacement, disconnect the NEGATIVE (-) battery terminal first. This eliminates the risk of accidental short circuits causing sparks, component damage, or fire. Reconnect only when all work is done.
  • Use Correct Tools: Using improper tools can damage fuse contacts.
  • Correct Amp Rating: NEVER replace the 15A fuel pump fuse with one of a higher amperage (like 20A, 25A, or 30A). This compromises safety. If the fuse blows, it needs replacement and the underlying cause must be diagnosed.
  • Fuel Vapors: While working near the rear seat/fuel pump area, ensure good ventilation. Avoid sparks or open flames. Gasoline vapors are highly flammable.
  • Eye Protection: Recommended when pulling fuses or working under dashboards.

Important Considerations

  • Owner's Manual: The definitive source for the fuse box diagram is your car's specific owner's manual. Always consult it if available. Diagrams on covers can wear or fade.
  • Variations: While standardized for the 1997 Accord generation, minor differences might exist between specific trim levels (DX, LX, EX) or vehicles built in different plants. If a fuse doesn't exist in the location mentioned, double-check the diagram. The under-hood FI/ECU fuse (#45) location might also vary slightly but is consistently present.
  • Relays Matter: Don't forget the role of the fuel pump relay and the under-hood FI fuse (#45). If the fuel pump fuse is good but the pump doesn't prime, these are the next critical checks. Hearing the relay "click" when the key is turned to ON (II) is a sign it's being commanded (though internal contacts could still be faulty).

Conclusion

The fuel pump in your 1997 Honda Accord receives its power through the designated 15 Amp fuse located inside the interior fuse panel below the steering wheel. Identifying the exact slot using the fuse box diagram is essential for quick diagnosis when facing a no-start, no-prime-sound situation. Always inspect the fuse visually and test it properly. Remember that a blown fuse is protective but indicates an underlying problem: a wiring short, a failing fuel pump, or possibly an issue with the fuel pump relay or the related under-hood FI/ECU fuse. Prioritize safety with the battery disconnected during deeper electrical work and strictly adhere to replacing blown fuses only with the correctly rated 15 Amp size. Knowing this key fuse location empowers you to perform initial checks, potentially saving time and diagnostic costs.

Back to blog