1998 Chevy Tracker Fuel Pump Relay Location - Exactly Where to Find It & Troubleshooting Tips

Finding the fuel pump relay in a 1998 Chevy Tracker is straightforward. Look inside the main underhood fuse and relay box situated near the battery on the driver's side of the engine compartment. The fuel pump relay is typically the second relay from the front (towards the bumper) in the row of five larger relay positions. This box is the most common location. Some models might have a secondary relay panel inside the vehicle, but the underhood location is primary for the fuel pump relay.

Fuel delivery problems can bring your 1998 Chevy Tracker to a frustrating halt. If you suspect a bad fuel pump relay – a common culprit preventing the pump from receiving power – knowing exactly where to look is the critical first step. This guide cuts through the confusion and shows you precisely where the 1998 Chevy Tracker fuel pump relay is located, how to identify it, replace it, and understand related issues.

The Primary Location: The Underhood Fuse/Relay Box

Your search starts under the hood. This central electrical hub is crucial for many vehicle functions, including the fuel pump circuit.

  1. Position: Open the hood. Stand on the driver's side. Locate the battery. Immediately next to the battery (towards the center of the front of the vehicle), you will find a large, rectangular black plastic box. This is the main underhood fuse and relay center.
  2. Access: Lift the lid off the box. The lid should lift vertically upwards. The inside of the lid usually has a diagram or chart listing the fuses and relays and their functions. Keep this lid handy for reference.
  3. Identify the Relay Sockets: Inside the box, you'll see an array of fuses (smaller, often colored plastic components) and larger plug-in components - the relays. The relays plug into square sockets.
  4. Locate the Fuel Pump Relay: Focus on the row of five larger relay positions. They are usually arranged together in a line or cluster.
    • The fuel pump relay is typically the second relay from the FRONT of the vehicle (the side closest to the bumper).
    • Key identifiers:
      • Position: Second from the front bumper side in the row of five larger relays.
      • Diagram: Consult the chart on the inside of the fuse box lid. Look for "FUEL PUMP", "F/PMP", "FP RELAY", or a similar designation.
      • Labeling: The fuse box base next to each relay socket might be labeled. Look for the same terms near the specific socket.

Understanding What the Relay Looks Like

The fuel pump relay in your '98 Tracker is a standard automotive relay:

  • Shape: Roughly square or cube-shaped.
  • Color: Usually black plastic.
  • Size: About 1 to 1.5 inches square.
  • Pins: It will have 4 or 5 flat metal blade terminals on the bottom, plugged into the socket.
  • Diagram Symbol: Some relays have a simple diagram printed on the side (e.g., showing pins 30, 85, 86, 87, sometimes 87a). This aids testing but isn't necessary for initial location/identification.

Is There Anywhere Else to Look?

  • Underhood is Primary: For the vast majority of 1998 Chevy Trackers (and their badge-engineered twins, the Geo Trackers), the fuel pump relay is located only in the underhood fuse/relay box described above.
  • Interior Panel Check: It's highly unlikely, but on a very slim chance (or if you've ruled out the underhood relay completely), briefly check the small instrument panel fuse box. This is usually located near the driver's side lower dash or knee bolster. This box primarily contains smaller fuses for interior accessories and is NOT the standard location for the fuel pump relay. Its diagram will confirm this. Don't waste significant time here looking for the fuel pump relay.

Replacing the Relay: A Simple Process (If it's the Issue)

Once you've located and identified the suspected fuel pump relay:

  1. Obtain Replacement: Purchase a new relay. Use the old one for reference (common part number types: JD2912, 5-pin ISO). Confirm function ("Fuel Pump Relay") and pin configuration with the store.
  2. Ensure Safety: Turn the ignition key completely OFF.
  3. Remove Old Relay: Simply grasp the relay body firmly and pull it straight up and out of its socket. It should release without excessive force.
  4. Insert New Relay: Align the new relay exactly with the socket. The terminals should face the same way as the old relay. Press down firmly until it clicks and is fully seated.
  5. Test Function: Turn the ignition key to the ON position (do not start). You should hear the new relay click briefly, followed by the distinct whirring sound of the fuel pump priming for 2-3 seconds. If the pump primes, it indicates the relay is working correctly. Attempt to start the engine.

Essential Safety Precautions

  • Always disconnect the negative (-) battery cable before testing wiring or replacing components other than just the relay itself. For simple relay swaps while troubleshooting, having the ignition OFF is usually sufficient. If touching wiring, disconnect the battery.
  • Use insulated tools when checking circuits.
  • Avoid probing wires while the circuit is live unless you are using a dedicated tester designed for it.
  • Work in a well-ventilated area, especially if dealing with fuel fumes. Never smoke or have open flames nearby.
  • Release fuel system pressure before disconnecting any fuel lines. This usually involves removing the fuel pump relay or fuse and running the engine until it stalls.

Confirming the Fuel Pump Relay is the Problem (Diagnosis Steps)

Don't just replace the relay blindly. Here's how to check if it's actually faulty:

  1. The Pump Doesn't Prime: Turn the ignition ON (don't start). Do you hear the fuel pump run for a few seconds? If there's no sound at all, it points to a lack of power, potentially the relay.
  2. Swap Test: The most practical test. Find another relay in the same box (like the horn relay) that has the exact same number of pins and part number.
    • Remove the fuel pump relay.
    • Remove the known-good relay (e.g., horn).
    • Install the known-good relay into the fuel pump relay socket.
    • Turn ignition ON. If the fuel pump now primes, the original fuel pump relay is bad. If it doesn't, the problem lies elsewhere.
    • Remember to swap the relays back when done!
  3. Listen and Feel:
    • With the ignition ON, have a helper turn the key while you hold your hand on the fuel pump relay. You should feel a distinct click as it energizes. If no click, the relay may be dead or not receiving a signal.
    • CAUTION: Only do this if confident and careful, keeping hands clear of moving engine parts. Or tap the relay lightly with a screwdriver handle. Sometimes a failing relay will temporarily work again after being jarred.
  4. Using a Multimeter:
    • Requires basic electrical knowledge and a multimeter. Consult a proper repair manual for specific pinout testing details for your relay type and the expected readings (presence of coil control voltage, output power).

Why the Fuel Pump Relay Matters

This small component is a critical electrical switch. When you turn the ignition key:

  1. The Powertrain Control Module (PCM - the engine computer) sends a small ground signal to one side of the relay's electromagnet coil.
  2. This electromagnet energizes, pulling internal switch contacts closed.
  3. Closing these contacts allows significant battery power to flow directly through the relay's other circuit to the fuel pump.
  4. The fuel pump runs, building pressure in the lines.

If the relay fails:

  • Fails Open: The internal contacts never close. No power reaches the fuel pump. You get silence when you turn the key on, and the engine won't start.
  • Intermittent: The contacts make an inconsistent connection. This can cause the pump to work sometimes and not others, leading to stalling, hard starting, or dying while driving.

What if Replacing the Relay Doesn't Fix the Problem?

No fuel pressure after replacing the relay points to other issues. Here's where to look next:

  1. Check Related Fuses: There's almost always a fuse dedicated to the fuel pump power circuit.
    • In the same underhood box, locate the fuse labeled "FUEL PUMP", "F/PMP", or similar (check the lid diagram). Also, check large "main" fuses related to battery power distribution.
    • Visually inspect the fuse or test it with a multimeter for continuity. Replace any blown fuse.
  2. Fuel Pump Itself: If the relay clicks and the fuse is good, the pump itself may have failed. This requires more involved testing (listening for the pump, checking voltage at the pump connector, testing fuel pressure at the rail).
  3. Inertia Switch: The Tracker has a fuel pump inertia switch designed to shut off the pump in an impact. It's usually located inside the vehicle, under the passenger side carpet near the kick panel or console. Check if it has been tripped; press the reset button on top. Check for power to the inertia switch.
  4. Wiring Faults: Open circuits (broken wires), short circuits, or severe corrosion in the wiring harness running from the relay box back to the fuel pump (often under the vehicle) or between the relay and the PCM.
  5. PCM Signal Problem: The PCM may not be sending the "turn on" signal to the relay coil due to an internal PCM fault, a sensor problem preventing it from commanding pump operation (like a bad crank sensor), or a wiring issue on that control circuit.
  6. Ignition Switch Issue: A problem in the ignition switch might prevent the ignition signal from reaching the PCM, preventing it from triggering the relay. Try wiggling the key while in the "ON" position and listening for the pump.
  7. Security System (if equipped): Some models with a factory anti-theft system may disable the fuel pump relay circuit if the system is triggered or malfunctions. Look for a flashing security light on the dashboard.

Long-Term Reliability Tips

  • Relay Quality: Use a quality replacement relay from a reputable auto parts brand.
  • Splash Guard: Ensure the underhood fuse box lid is properly sealed to protect the relays and fuses from water and debris.
  • Electrical Corrosion: Periodically inspect electrical connections in the underhood box and at the fuel pump for signs of corrosion, green crust, or loose wires. Clean connections gently if needed.
  • Undercoating: Protect wiring running under the vehicle from rust and corrosion with appropriate undercoating, especially in snowy/salty climates. Check for damaged wire insulation.

Seeking Professional Help

  • If diagnosis becomes complex (involving wiring tracing or PCM diagnostics).
  • If you feel uncomfortable performing electrical checks or working underneath the vehicle.
  • If fuel pump replacement is needed (requires dropping the fuel tank or accessing it through an interior service panel, depending on the model, plus fuel line safety procedures). This is a significant repair.
  • Certified mechanics have access to advanced diagnostic scanners and wiring diagrams.

Key Takeaways

Diagnosing a no-start condition in your 1998 Chevy Tracker often centers on fuel delivery, and the fuel pump relay is a common failure point. Remember: find the black underhood fuse/relay box near the battery, lift the lid, look in the row of five larger relays – the fuel pump relay is most likely the second one from the front (bumper side). Confirm its identity using the diagram on the lid or socket markings, use the simple swap test to check it, and replace it if faulty. While often the solution, understand that other components like fuses, the pump itself, the inertia switch, or wiring could also be the culprit if replacing the relay doesn't restore function. Knowing the location empowers you to perform the first crucial step in troubleshooting your Tracker's fuel system.

Back to blog