1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee Fuel Pump: Your Essential Guide to Problems, Diagnosis & Replacement

A failing fuel pump in your 1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee will manifest as sudden engine stalling, hard starting, sputtering, or an inability to start. Diagnosing the issue correctly is crucial, and replacement requires accessing the pump inside the fuel tank, demanding specific tools and safety precautions.

A healthy fuel pump is the very heart of your Jeep Grand Cherokee's fuel delivery system. Its job is simple but absolutely vital: drawing gasoline from the tank and pushing it under consistent, high pressure to the fuel injectors near the engine. The injectors then spray this fuel precisely into the engine cylinders for combustion. Without this steady flow of fuel at the correct pressure, your engine simply cannot run. When the pump in your 1998 Grand Cherokee starts to fail, the consequences range from minor annoyances like hesitation to major problems like leaving you stranded. Recognizing the symptoms early and understanding the repair process is essential for any owner of this popular SUV.

Recognizing the Warning Signs of a Failing 1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee Fuel Pump

The 1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee fuel pump, like any mechanical and electrical component, wears out over time. Failure rarely happens instantly without warning; instead, you'll often experience symptoms that progressively worsen. Missing these warnings can lead to a sudden no-start situation, often at the most inconvenient times.

1. Engine Won't Start / Hard Starting: This is the most definitive, yet frustrating, sign. If the fuel pump fails completely, the engine gets no fuel at all. You'll crank the engine, but it will not start. Sometimes, a weak pump might still push a little fuel, requiring multiple attempts to start (extended cranking) before the engine finally catches. You might turn the key, hear the starter turning the engine over vigorously, but it never actually fires up.
2. Engine Sputtering or Hesitation (Especially Under Load): A fuel pump that's beginning to struggle might deliver fuel inconsistently. When you demand more power – accelerating onto a highway, climbing a hill, or passing another vehicle – the pump can't maintain the required pressure. This causes the engine to stumble, hesitate, jerk, or lose power momentarily. It might feel like it's being starved of fuel (because it is!). This symptom often gets progressively worse as the pump deteriorates.
3. Sudden Engine Stalling While Driving: This is a dangerous symptom and a clear red flag. A weak or failing pump might intermittently stop delivering fuel while you're driving, causing the engine to cut out completely without warning. Sometimes the engine might restart immediately after stalling, other times it might take several minutes or refuse to restart at all. This unpredictability makes it critical to address the issue immediately.
4. Loss of Power During Acceleration: Similar to hesitation, but more severe. Instead of just a stumble, you press the gas pedal, and the vehicle simply lacks the power to accelerate as it normally would. It feels sluggish or struggles to gain speed, even on level ground, indicating the fuel pressure is insufficient for the engine's demands.
5. Whining, Humming, or Buzzing Noise from the Rear: Often an early warning sign. While a slight hum from the tank area when you first turn the ignition on (before starting) is normal, a significantly louder whining, buzzing, grinding, or screaming noise is not. This noise might change pitch or volume as the pump labors or may persist even after the engine is running. It's the sound of an internal electric motor struggling or bearings wearing out.
6. Engine Surging at Steady Speeds: Inconsistent fuel pressure can cause the engine RPMs to rise and fall slightly without any input on the accelerator pedal while driving at a constant speed. It feels like the Jeep is lurching forward slightly and then coasting in a repeated cycle.

Diagnosing a Potential 1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee Fuel Pump Issue

Assuming a faulty fuel pump is the only possible cause of your symptoms is a mistake that can lead to wasted money and effort. Several other components share symptoms with a bad pump. Before condemning the 1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee fuel pump, perform these basic diagnostic steps:

1. Listen for the Pump Priming: This is the quickest initial test. Turn the ignition key to the "ON" position (do not start the engine). You should hear a distinct humming or buzzing sound coming from underneath the rear of the Jeep, specifically near the fuel tank. This sound usually lasts for 2-3 seconds as the pump pressurizes the fuel system for starting. If you hear no sound at all, it strongly points towards a problem with the pump itself, the fuel pump relay, or the fuse.
2. Check the Fuel Pump Fuse: Consult your 1998 Grand Cherokee owner's manual for the exact location of the fuse box containing the fuel pump fuse. Usually, it's the under-hood Power Distribution Center (PDC). Remove the suspected fuel pump fuse. Inspect the thin metal strip inside the clear plastic housing – if it's broken or melted, the fuse is blown. If blown, replace it with one of the exact same amperage rating. A blown fuse can be the culprit, but if it blows again immediately, there is likely a short circuit in the wiring or the pump itself that must be found.
3. Check the Fuel Pump Relay: Relays are electro-mechanical switches. The fuel pump relay in your 1998 Grand Cherokee controls power to the pump. It's typically located in the PDC near the battery under the hood. Try swapping the fuel pump relay with a known good, identical relay from another slot in the same box (like the horn or AC relay, if similar). Turn the key to ON – if you hear the pump run now, the original relay was faulty. Using a multimeter to test the relay's coil and contacts is more accurate but requires some electrical knowledge.
4. Check Fuel Pressure (The Most Important Test): This is the definitive test for the primary function of the pump – generating adequate pressure. It requires a fuel pressure test kit that connects to the vehicle's Schrader valve (a tire valve-like fitting) on the fuel rail near the engine. The procedure involves:
   • Locating the Schrader valve (often covered by a plastic cap) on the metal fuel rail feeding the injectors.
   • Carefully depressurizing the system (using a rag over the valve to catch spray) before connecting the gauge – fuel can spray under high pressure!
   • Connecting the fuel pressure tester according to the kit's instructions.
   • Turning the key to ON and reading the pressure as the pump primes.
   • Starting the engine and noting the pressure at idle.
   • Clamping the return fuel line temporarily (carefully!) and noting if pressure rises significantly (checks the regulator).
   • Checking pressure drop when revving the engine or when returning to idle.
   • Checking how long the system holds pressure after turning the engine off (should hold for several minutes).
   • Specification: The 1998 Grand Cherokee's fuel system requires 49 PSI ± 5 PSI at the rail. Significantly lower pressure, failure to reach pressure quickly, or a rapid pressure drop after shutdown all point strongly to the pump. Compare your readings rigorously to this spec. If you don't have a gauge, having this test done by a professional is a worthwhile investment before replacing the pump.
5. Rule Out Simple Fuel Issues: Is the gas gauge low? While the pump is cooled and lubricated by fuel, running on fumes can cause it to overheat and potentially fail prematurely. Did you recently get fuel? Consider the possibility of severe contamination (bad gas). If the tank is very old or damaged internally, rust or debris can clog the pump's inlet sock filter. Bad gas can sometimes mimic pump symptoms.
6. Consider Other Related Components: While the pressure test helps isolate, remember:
   • Fuel Filter: A severely clogged fuel filter can cause similar symptoms by restricting flow to the engine. However, modern fuel filters are very robust, and a completely clogged one causing drivability issues is less common than pump failure, though it should be checked/replaced per maintenance schedule.
   • Fuel Pressure Regulator: This device maintains constant pressure in the rail. A leaky diaphragm in the regulator can cause low pressure. The pressure test helps differentiate between low pressure from a pump vs. a leaky regulator.
   • Fuel Lines: Physical damage, kinks, or leaks in the fuel lines running from the tank to the engine can cause delivery problems.
   • Ignition Issues: Problems with crank position sensors or ignition control modules can cause no-starts or stalling that mimic pump failure. Listening for the pump prime and the pressure test help distinguish.
   • Electrical Connections: Corroded connectors at the fuel pump access cover or along the wiring harness can interrupt power. Check for voltage at the pump connector when the key is turned ON.

The Crucial Role: Why Your 1998 Grand Cherokee Fuel Pump Matters

Understanding what the fuel pump does emphasizes its criticality:

• High Pressure Delivery: The Electronic Fuel Injection (EFI) system on the 4.0L straight-six and V8 engines relies on precise, high-pressure fuel atomization. The pump must generate around 50 PSI consistently.
• Volume: It must supply enough fuel volume to meet the engine's peak demand, especially under acceleration or load.
• Consistency: Engine computer calculations for air/fuel mixture timing depend on consistent fuel pressure. Fluctuations cause poor performance.
• Priming: Each time you turn the key on, it rapidly fills the fuel lines and rail to prepare for starting.
• Engine Health: Insufficient fuel pressure causes lean conditions where too much air mixes with too little fuel. This leads to misfires, hesitation, loss of power, and even engine damage (due to excessive heat) if severe and prolonged. A failing pump stresses other engine components.

DIY Reality Check: Preparing to Replace the 1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee Fuel Pump

Replacing the fuel pump in a 1998 Grand Cherokee is generally considered a moderate DIY job, but it's not an easy one. It requires mechanical aptitude, patience, physical effort, a good set of tools, and strict adherence to safety precautions. Before you commit, assess honestly:

• Safety Paramount: Working with gasoline is inherently dangerous. Sparks, open flames, or high-pressure fuel spray can cause fire or explosion. You MUST work in a well-ventilated area away from ignition sources. Wear safety glasses. Have a fire extinguisher rated for gasoline nearby.
• Physical Difficulty: Getting to the pump requires dropping the fuel tank. The tank is heavy, even when partially drained, bulky, and awkward to handle. Having an extra pair of strong hands is highly recommended.
• Required Tools: Beyond basic sockets and wrenches, you'll typically need:
  • Jack and strong jack stands rated for the vehicle weight.
  • Socket for filler neck hose clamp (large).
  • Socket/Wrench for tank straps.
  • Line wrenches or fuel line disconnect tools for the quick-connect fittings on the fuel lines at the tank.
  • Multimeter for electrical checks.
  • Floor jack with wood block or transmission jack to support tank.
  • Fuel siphon/pump and container approved for gasoline.
  • New O-ring/gasket for the pump lock ring assembly (usually comes with new pump).
  • Possibly penetrating oil for stubborn fittings.
• Vehicle Support: The tank dropping significantly limits access to fasteners. Ensure the vehicle is VERY securely supported on jack stands on solid, level ground. Never work under a vehicle supported only by a jack.
• Cleanliness: Gasoline tanks are generally very clean internally unless contaminated. When you open the assembly, keeping dirt and debris out is crucial. Clean the area around the access cover thoroughly before opening it.
• Workspace: A garage or flat driveway is essential. Avoid gravel.

Step-by-Step Guide to Replacing the 1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee Fuel Pump

Assuming you have the correct replacement pump assembly (confirm for 1998, ZJ body, and engine size - 4.0L or V8), the tools, safety equipment, and workspace, proceed as follows:

1. Depressurize the Fuel System: The single most important safety step! Locate the Schrader valve on the fuel rail under the hood. Cover it with a thick rag. Carefully depress the valve core using a small screwdriver or valve stem tool. Fuel may spray out – catch it with the rag. Allow pressure to bleed off completely until only a slight dribble remains. Warning: Ignoring this step can result in dangerous high-pressure fuel spray.
2. Siphon Fuel From the Tank: The less fuel in the tank, the lighter and less hazardous it is to drop. Use a siphon pump through the filler neck to remove as much gasoline as possible into approved containers. Do NOT run the tank dry as the pump uses fuel for lubrication. Leave a few gallons (under 1/4 tank is ideal).
3. Disconnect the Battery: Prevent electrical shorts by disconnecting the negative battery terminal. Isolate the terminal.
4. Disconnect the Filler Neck: Open the fuel door. Remove the screws or bolts securing the filler neck to the fenderwell. Loosen the large hose clamp attaching the filler neck hose to the tank. Carefully twist and pull the neck assembly away from the tank.
5. Disconnect Vent/EVR Hoses: Locate the smaller hoses near the filler neck (charcoal canister vent lines and possibly Evaporative Emission Control hoses). Label them or note carefully which hose connects where. Disconnect them from the tank.
6. Support the Tank: Position a sturdy floor jack underneath the fuel tank. Use a large wood block between the jack head and the tank bottom to distribute weight and prevent denting. Raise the jack just until it contacts the tank firmly, providing support.
7. Remove the Tank Straps: Locate the two metal straps that cradle the tank. Each strap will have two bolts/nuts attaching it to the vehicle frame. On the 1998 Grand Cherokee, these bolts point upwards and are often exposed to road grime and rust. Use penetrating oil beforehand. Carefully remove the nuts/bolts on both sides, supporting the tank fully with the jack.
8. Lower the Tank: Slowly and carefully lower the jack supporting the tank. Keep a firm grip on the tank to guide it. Lower it just enough (typically 6-12 inches) to gain access to the top of the tank. Do NOT let the tank hang by the fuel lines or wiring.
9. Disconnect Fuel Lines: Locate the quick-connect fittings on the fuel lines attached to the top of the fuel pump module. The 1998 model typically has three lines: Feed (to engine), Return (from regulator), and vapor lines. Use the appropriate fuel line disconnect tool(s) – often plastic tabs or specific sized sleeves – to release the couplings. Follow the tool instructions precisely to avoid damaging the fragile plastic clips or lines. Expect a small amount of fuel leakage. Have rags ready.
10. Disconnect Electrical Connector: Unplug the electrical connector going to the top of the fuel pump assembly. It will have a locking tab – press the tab and pull firmly.
11. Remove Pump Lock Ring: With the tank lowered and all connections freed, you can now see the large plastic or metal access cover on top of the tank held by a lock ring. The lock ring has notches. Carefully use a brass punch and hammer, or a large screwdriver and hammer, to gently tap the ring counter-clockwise to unscrew it. Extreme Caution: Do not use a steel punch that could cause sparks near fuel vapor. Work slowly and methodically until the ring is loose. Avoid damaging the ring sealing surface.
12. Remove Old Pump Module Assembly: Once the lock ring is removed, carefully lift the entire fuel pump module assembly straight up out of the tank. There is a locating notch on the assembly. It will be wet with fuel. Have a drip pan or large container ready to place it in. Note the orientation of the float arm relative to the tank.
13. Prepare New Pump Module: Carefully remove the new fuel pump assembly from its packaging. Compare the old and new units to ensure they are identical. Inspect the large rubber O-ring or gasket on the assembly – this is CRITICAL for sealing. Apply a light smear of clean engine oil or fresh gasoline only to this O-ring to lubricate it for installation. Do NOT use petroleum jelly or thick grease, which can degrade the rubber. Ensure the seal sits correctly in its groove.
14. Clean Tank Opening: Before installing the new pump, wipe any debris or dirt from the sealing surface where the O-ring sits in the tank opening. Protect the open tank from falling dirt.
15. Install New Pump Module: Carefully lower the new fuel pump assembly straight down into the tank, ensuring it aligns correctly with the locating notch in the tank opening. Ensure the float arm inside the tank points in the correct direction relative to the tank shape (usually towards the front).
16. Install Lock Ring: Place the lock ring over the assembly, engaging it with the threads or tabs on the tank opening. Using your hammer and punch/drift again, gently tap the ring clockwise until it is fully seated and tight. Ensure the tabs on the ring are seated properly against the stops. It should be snug but avoid excessive force. The O-ring should be properly compressed.
17. Reconnect Electrical & Fuel Lines: Plug the electrical connector back in firmly until it clicks. Reconnect the fuel lines, ensuring you push them together until you hear and feel a distinct "click" indicating the quick-connect fittings are locked. Give each line a firm tug to verify they are secure. Double-check correct routing if hoses are similar.
18. Raise Tank Back Into Position: Carefully jack the tank back up into its mounting position, guiding the filler neck end towards the opening. Ensure no hoses or wires get pinched between the tank and frame.
19. Reinstall Tank Straps: Position the tank straps back into place. Reinstall the bolts/nuts and tighten them securely. Once the straps are tight, you can lower the jack slightly away from the tank.
20. Reconnect Filler Neck: Align the filler neck hose with the tank outlet. Slide it firmly onto the tank spigot. Secure it with the hose clamp, tightening it firmly. Reattach the filler neck to the fenderwell with its screws/bolts. Reconnect any vent/EVR hoses correctly, referencing your labels/notes.
21. Reconnect Battery: Reconnect the negative battery cable.
22. Initial System Prime: Turn the ignition key to the "ON" position (do not start). Listen carefully at the rear. You should distinctly hear the new pump hum for several seconds as it primes the system. Turn the key off. Repeat the ON position 2-3 times to fully pressurize the lines.
23. Check for Leaks: Visually inspect all connections you disturbed – filler neck hose, quick-connect fittings, the pump access cover area – for any signs of fuel leaks. Have an assistant turn the key ON while you watch. If you see or smell fuel leaking, turn key OFF immediately and locate the source.
24. Start the Engine: Attempt to start the engine. It may crank slightly longer than usual as residual air purges from the lines, but it should start and idle smoothly.
25. Final Leak Check: With the engine idling, perform another visual inspection under the vehicle around the tank connections. Rev the engine lightly and check again.
26. Road Test: Take a short test drive. Ensure the engine starts easily cold and hot. Accelerate firmly; verify no hesitation or stalling and that power feels restored.

Choosing the Right Replacement Pump: Quality Matters

When selecting a replacement for your 1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee fuel pump, you typically purchase the entire "module" assembly. This includes the pump motor itself, the fuel level sending unit (float), the reservoir/sock filter, the plastic hanger/carrier, and the associated wiring. The market offers various tiers of quality:

• OEM (Original Equipment Manufacturer): Made by the same supplier as the factory pump (like Bosch for many Mopars). Highest quality and fitment guarantee, but also the highest cost.
• Premium Aftermarket (e.g., Bosch, Airtex, Delphi, Denso): Well-known brands with solid reputations. Often offer a balance of quality and price. May be the same unit as OEM but packaged differently.
• Standard/Value Aftermarket: More affordable options. Durability can be a gamble. While some are adequate for occasional use vehicles, others may fail prematurely. Research specific brand/model feedback heavily if considering this tier.
• Avoid "No-Name" Ultra-Cheap Pumps: These are tempting price-wise but are notorious for short lifespans, incorrect fuel pressure outputs, and noisy operation. The risk of having to repeat the labor-intensive replacement job soon after isn't worth the initial savings.

Price vs. Quality is a key consideration. Installing a cheap pump only to have it fail again in 15,000 miles makes the initial savings irrelevant due to the labor involved. Investing in a quality brand (OEM or reputable aftermarket) is highly recommended.

Expected Lifespan of a New Pump: Can You Prolong It?

Fuel pumps are wear items, meaning they will eventually fail. However, their lifespan isn't fixed.

• Average Lifespan: A quality replacement fuel pump in a 1998 Grand Cherokee, driven under typical conditions, should generally last between 80,000 and 150,000 miles. Factory pumps sometimes lasted the life of the vehicle or longer, but replacements often don't match that extreme longevity.
• Factors Affecting Longevity:
  • Fuel Level: Running consistently on less than 1/4 tank (especially frequently below 1/8) is the BIGGEST killer. The pump motor is immersed in gasoline, which cools and lubricates it. Low fuel levels expose the pump to more heat, leading to premature wear and failure. Make every effort to keep the tank at least 1/4 full, especially during hot weather or when driving long distances.
  • Fuel Filter Neglect: A clogged fuel filter forces the pump to work much harder to push fuel through the restriction. This increases heat and strain, potentially shortening its life. Follow the vehicle manufacturer's recommended fuel filter replacement interval (usually every 30,000-50,000 miles).
  • Contaminants: Severe sediment, rust, or water in the fuel tank can clog the pump's inlet sock filter, again causing strain. If the tank is very rusty or you suspect major contamination, replacing or professionally cleaning/re-coating the tank at the same time as the pump is wise.
  • Electrical Issues: Problems with the fuel pump relay providing intermittent voltage, loose/poor grounds, or corroded connectors can cause inconsistent operation and stress.
  • Vehicle Use: Very short trips where the pump doesn't get fully warmed up might slightly increase moisture condensation, but the impact is debated. Constant extremely hot weather or towing heavy loads can add minor extra thermal stress. Consistent low fuel levels are far more damaging.
  • Fuel Quality: Severe contamination aside, the general impact of fuel quality on modern pump lifespan is minor. However, extremely poor-quality fuel could theoretically increase wear.

Cost Implications: Repairing the 1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee Fuel Pump

The cost to replace the fuel pump varies significantly depending on your approach:

1. DIY Replacement:

   • Parts Cost: Expect $150-$350+ for the pump module assembly itself. Price heavily depends on quality tier (OEM, Premium Aftermarket, Standard). Choose wisely based on intended ownership length.
   • Tool Cost: If you already own a robust floor jack, jack stands, basic mechanic's tools, and potentially fuel line disconnect tools, this cost is negligible. If you need to buy jack stands or a jack specifically for this job, factor in $100-$300 depending on quality and capacity. A fuel pressure test kit rental from an auto parts store might incur a deposit.
   • Total DIY Cost: Primarily just the cost of the pump module. Ballpark: $150-$400.

2. Professional Mechanic Replacement:

   • Parts Cost: Shops mark up parts significantly – expect them to charge $250-$500+ for a quality pump.
   • Labor Cost: This is the big expense. The job typically takes a skilled mechanic 2.5 to 4.5 hours. Labor rates vary widely ($100-$180+ per hour). Expect labor charges ranging from $250to$800+.
   • Shop Fees: Disposal fees for fuel/gas, shop supplies.
   • Total Professional Repair Cost: $500-$1,600+. Most common range is $600-$1,000 for a mid-tier pump installed.

The labor involved in dropping the tank makes professional replacement costly relative to the vehicle's age. A DIY repair offers significant savings if you're equipped and confident.

Consequences of Ignoring Fuel Pump Failure in Your 1998 Grand Cherokee

Driving with a known weak or intermittently failing fuel pump is a gamble with increasing risks:

1. Stranding: The most immediate consequence. A dead pump will leave you unable to start the Jeep wherever it fails – busy intersection, remote highway, parking lot.
2. Towing Costs: Adding the expense and hassle of a tow truck to the necessary repair cost.
3. Potential Engine Damage: Severe and prolonged fuel starvation (lean condition) caused by a failing pump can lead to overheating, melted spark plugs, catalytic converter damage from unburned fuel, and in extreme cases, piston or valve damage due to detonation and pre-ignition caused by excessively lean mixtures.
4. Increased Wear on Other Components: Constant cranking trying to start a fuel-starved engine strains the battery and starter motor. Repeatedly cycling a bad electrical connection (relay, fuse) can worsen it.
5. Safety Hazard: Symptoms like sudden stalling, especially at highway speeds, can cause a loss of power steering and brakes (requires more effort), creating a dangerous situation.
6. Cost Escalation: What might start as a simple pump replacement could escalate if running the Jeep severely low on fuel damages the new pump quickly, or if fuel starvation causes engine issues requiring much more expensive repairs.

After Replacement: Ensuring Your Grand Cherokee Stays Reliable

Once you've completed the fuel pump replacement, a few follow-up actions help ensure long-term reliability and peace of mind:

1. Reset the "SERVICE ENGINE SOON" Light (If Applicable): While a bad pump itself won't always trigger a diagnostic trouble code (DTC), related issues like lean conditions from low pressure might have set a code (e.g., P0171, P0174). After fixing the problem, codes don't clear themselves immediately. Use an OBD-II scanner to check for and clear any stored codes. If no scanner, disconnecting the battery for 15-20 minutes can often reset the light, but may also reset radio presets and other memory.
2. Monitor Performance Closely: For the next few weeks, pay extra attention. Listen for unusual pump noises, ensure hot and cold starts remain strong, and be vigilant for any recurrence of hesitation, stalling, or power loss. Early detection prevents repeating the major job.
3. Adopt Good Fueling Habits: As emphasized, keep your fuel tank level reasonable. Consistently refill at 1/4 tank. This is the single best practice for prolonging the life of your new pump.
4. Replace Fuel Filter (If Applicable): If the fuel filter wasn't recently replaced and your pump symptoms suggested strain (slow pressure build, low pressure), or if it's near time per the maintenance schedule, replace the in-line fuel filter now. It's an inexpensive part and much easier than the pump job.
5. Record the Repair: Make a note of the date, mileage, brand, and source of the new pump module. This is helpful for future diagnostics and for verifying warranty coverage should it become necessary.

Final Thoughts: Keeping Your 1998 Grand Cherokee Running Strong

The fuel pump is a critical, unglamorous component in your 1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee. Its failure, while common in vehicles of this age, disrupts the core function of the engine. Learning to recognize the warning signs – especially unexpected stalling, hard starting, loud whining noises, and power loss under load – empowers you to address the problem proactively. Diagnosis, while involving steps like listening for the pump prime and checking basic fuses/relays, should center on the definitive fuel pressure test. Replacing the pump, whether DIY or professionally, requires respect for the hazards of gasoline, patience for the awkward job of dropping the tank, and a commitment to safety. Choosing a quality pump module and crucially maintaining healthy fuel levels will maximize the lifespan of this vital investment. With the new fuel pump installed and good habits maintained, your trusty Grand Cherokee can continue to deliver reliable transportation for many more miles.