1999 CHEVY SILVERADO FUEL PUMP FUSE LOCATION: YOUR QUICK FIX GUIDE

The fuel pump fuse in your 1999 Chevy Silverado is located in the passenger compartment fuse panel, behind the dash near the passenger-side kick panel. It is a standard blade fuse, likely labeled "FUEL PUMP" or "FP," and is typically a 15-amp fuse (blue color) in position #17.

If your 1999 Silverado cranks but won't start, or the engine sputters and dies, a blown fuel pump fuse is a common suspect and the first thing you should check before diving into more complicated diagnostics. Finding the correct fuse quickly is essential. This guide provides detailed, step-by-step instructions and crucial details to locate and inspect this critical fuse efficiently.

Understanding the Fuse Panels: Not Under the Hood

Your 1999 Silverado has two primary fuse panels: one under the hood in the engine compartment and one inside the passenger cabin. Crucially, the fuel pump fuse is NOT located in the underhood fuse box. Many owners instinctively look there first, leading to frustration. The fuse you need resides within the vehicle's interior.

Step 1: Locate the Interior Fuse Panel Access

  1. Open the Passenger Door: Fully open the front passenger door.
  2. Find the Kick Panel: Look down at the lower part of the dash area immediately to the right of the passenger door opening and below the glove box. This vertical plastic panel running alongside the passenger's feet is the kick panel.
  3. Identify the Fuse Panel Cover: The fuse box cover is a roughly rectangular piece of plastic (light gray or beige on most trucks) integrated into the kick panel. It faces somewhat toward the front of the cab. It's held in place by simple friction clips or tabs.

Step 2: Safely Accessing the Fuse Panel

  1. Park Safely: Ensure the truck is parked on a level surface with the parking brake firmly engaged.
  2. Turn Off Ignition: Turn the ignition key to the "OFF" position and remove it from the ignition cylinder.
  3. Disconnect Battery (Recommended - Safety First): To eliminate any risk of electrical short circuits or inadvertent starting, disconnect the negative (-) terminal of the battery. Use the appropriate size wrench (usually 8mm or 10mm) to loosen the clamp bolt. Carefully lift the negative cable off the battery terminal and secure it away from the terminal and any metal parts. While the interior fuse panel is generally low-voltage, this is the safest practice.
  4. Remove the Fuse Box Cover: Grasp the fuse box cover firmly. You should be able to pull it straight out. It requires moderate force as it disengages from its clips. Avoid prying with sharp tools to prevent breaking clips or scratching the dash. Inspect the cover if it seems stuck – occasionally, a screw might be used at the top.
  5. Set the Cover Aside: Place the cover in a safe location where it won't get damaged or interfere with your work.

Step 3: Identifying the Fuel Pump Fuse

  1. Locate the Diagram: Immediately on the backside of the fuse panel cover you just removed is a printed diagram (usually molded into the plastic or a sticker) listing every fuse position and its function. Keep this cover handy for reference. There should also be a similar diagram printed directly on the fuse panel itself, near the top.
  2. Find the Correct Label: Scan both diagrams diligently for labels indicating the fuel pump fuse. Common labels include:
    • "FUEL PUMP" (Most common and clear)
    • "FP" (Abbreviation for Fuel Pump)
    • "FUEL PUMP REL" (Less common - might imply power for the relay coil rather than the pump circuit itself). Focus clearly on labels explicitly mentioning "Fuel Pump" or "FP".
  3. Confirm Position & Amp Rating: Once you find the correct label on the diagram, note the associated position number (e.g., #17). Also note the amperage rating listed on the diagram for that fuse – for the 1999 Silverado fuel pump circuit, this is typically a 15-amp fuse. This should correspond to a blue colored blade fuse. Remember the number.
  4. Locate Fuse Position #17: Look at the fuse panel itself. You'll see multiple rows of fuses with their position numbers molded into the plastic next to them or printed on a nearby diagram. Fuses are small, plastic-bodied components with two metal prongs sticking out of the bottom, inserted into slots in the panel. Find the fuse slot labeled #17. Visually match the diagram's layout to the physical panel.
  5. Confirm Fuse Color & Rating: Check the fuse installed in position #17. A standard, intact 15-amp fuse will be BLUE. Look closely at the top of the fuse body – it should be clearly marked "15". If it's white (25A), red (10A), yellow (20A), or clear/another color, it may be the wrong fuse or yours might have been replaced incorrectly before.

Step 4: Inspecting the Fuel Pump Fuse

  1. Visual Inspection: Look closely at the fuse metal element visible through the clear top of the plastic housing. A good fuse has a solid, unbroken strip of metal connecting the two blades. A blown fuse will have a broken metal strip, often with signs of slight melting or discoloration inside the plastic body. Check this carefully. A small crack can be hard to spot.
  2. Multimeter Test (Recommended - Most Reliable): Even if it looks okay, testing with a multimeter is the definitive method. Reconnect the battery negative terminal for this test only.
    • Set multimeter to measure DC Volts (VDC).
    • Turn the ignition key to the "ON" position (do not crank). This should power the fuse.
    • Carefully touch the red multimeter probe to one of the metal contacts on the top of the fuel pump fuse (these contacts are actually exposed metal from the blades underneath).
    • Touch the black multimeter probe to a clean, unpainted metal part of the chassis nearby (e.g., a bracket, bolt) for a ground reference.
    • You should read very close to battery voltage (approx. 12.6V with engine off).
    • Move the red probe to the other contact on top of the same fuse.
    • Again, you should read battery voltage. If you get battery voltage on BOTH sides of the fuse when the key is ON, the fuse is GOOD. The circuit is powered on both ends through the fuse.
    • If you get battery voltage on ONLY ONE SIDE of the fuse (and 0V or near 0V on the other side), the fuse is BLOWN or OPEN. The circuit power is stopped at the fuse.
    • Turn ignition back to "OFF".
    • Disconnect battery negative terminal again before proceeding to remove the fuse.

Step 5: Action Based on Inspection Findings

  • If the Fuse Looks Blown OR Tests Blown:

    1. Ensure the ignition is OFF and the battery negative is DISCONNECTED.
    2. Carefully grasp the blown fuse and pull it straight out. Fuse pullers are helpful but fingers usually work. Be gentle but firm.
    3. REPLACE IT WITH AN IDENTICAL SPEC FUSE. Use only a new 15-AMP, BLUE blade fuse. Verify the amp rating (15) and color before installing. Installing a higher amperage fuse is dangerous and can cause wiring damage or fire. Push the new fuse firmly into the slot until fully seated.
    4. Reconnect the battery negative terminal.
    5. Turn the ignition to "ON" and listen carefully near the rear of the truck for the distinct humming sound of the fuel pump priming for 2-3 seconds. This sound usually confirms pump operation.
    6. Attempt to start the engine. If it starts and runs normally, the blown fuse was the culprit.

  • If the Fuse Looks Good AND Tests Good:

    • Do not replace it. The fuel pump fuse is fine. The issue causing your no-start or engine dying problem lies elsewhere (e.g., fuel pump itself, fuel pump relay, wiring fault, ignition switch problem, security system issue). Further diagnosis is needed.

Why the Fuel Pump Fuse Blows

  1. Underlying Electrical Fault (Most Common Reason): A blown fuse is almost always a symptom of a deeper problem causing excessive current flow:
    • Failing Fuel Pump: A fuel pump motor drawing excessive amperage due to worn bearings or internal shorts is the most frequent cause of repeated fuse blowing.
    • Damaged Wiring: Insulation rubbed through by chassis components (common in harnesses running to the rear over the frame), damaged wires in the pump hanger assembly, or corroded/poor connections can cause shorts to ground.
    • Pinched Harness: Wires caught or pinched during pump replacement or other work can cause a short circuit.
  2. Severe Power Surge/Lightning Strike: A rare, uncontrollable event causing major system overload.
  3. Mechanical Jamming (Very Rare): Unlikely in a fuel pump, but if the pump rotor completely locked, it might momentarily blow the fuse before a circuit breaker trip or motor burn-out.

Crucial Caution: Diagnosing Repeated Blown Fuses

If the new fuel pump fuse blows immediately upon turning the key to ON, or shortly after the truck starts running:

  1. DO NOT CONTINUE REPLACING FUSES. Installing fuse after fuse simply creates a fire hazard.
  2. The underlying fault must be found. The most likely culprits are:
    • Fuel Pump: Diagnose its amperage draw or confirm if it's seized/archs. This often requires fuel tank access.
    • Wiring Harness: Particularly the section from the engine compartment to the rear of the truck and the harness within the fuel pump hanger module. Look for abrasion points near frame members, connectors, and where the harness passes through body panels. Check for rodent damage. Use a multimeter to test wires for shorts to ground (with fuse out and battery disconnected).
    • Fuel Pump Relay: While less common to cause a direct short circuit that blows fuses instantly, a relay stuck closed could potentially contribute indirectly if combined with another fault, but it's usually not the primary short. The relay itself is located in the underhood engine compartment fuse box, commonly in position #42 (or labeled "F/PUMP REL"). Inspecting its socket and function is wise but not the most likely cause unless incorrectly bypassed/jumpered previously. Never attempt to "jump" the fuel pump relay socket permanently.

Additional Troubleshooting: The Fuel Pump Relay

While the fuse powers the pump's main circuit, the fuel pump relay acts as the switch that delivers that power when commanded by the Powertrain Control Module (PCM). If the fuse is good but the pump doesn't run (no priming sound), testing the relay is the logical next step. Here's a quick outline (more detailed guides are available online):

  1. Location: Underhood fuse box, usually position #42, labeled "F/PUMP" or "FP REL".
  2. Swap Test: Swap the suspect fuel pump relay with a known good, identical relay from another circuit (e.g., horn relay). If the pump starts working, replace the relay.
  3. Listen/Feel: With the ignition turned to ON, you might hear/feel the fuel pump relay click. Its absence doesn't guarantee failure, but hearing it click doesn't guarantee functionality.
  4. Multimeter/Test Light: Requires specific pin testing to verify voltage inputs/outputs and PCM control signal when the key is cycled.

Accessing the Fuel Pump (When Necessary)

If testing confirms the fuse and relay are functional but the pump isn't receiving power or is faulty, accessing the pump itself requires either:

  1. Dropping the Fuel Tank: The traditional method. Support the tank securely, disconnect lines & wiring, lower tank slowly. Requires proper jacks/stands and precautions for fuel vapors/spills.
  2. Bed Removal: Some find it easier, especially for work trucks, to remove the bed bolts and carefully lift the entire truck bed using an engine hoist or multiple strong helpers, exposing the pump on the top of the tank. Offers excellent access but requires significant physical effort and space. Disconnecting wiring and fuel filler neck is crucial first.

Professional Assistance

Repeated blown fuses without an obvious cause often necessitate professional diagnostics. Automotive technicians possess advanced tools like scopes and short-circuit finders to locate electrical faults efficiently and safely. Attempting complex wiring repairs without proper training and equipment carries risks.

Essential Tips for Success

  • Own the Manual: Consult your specific 1999 Silverado owner's manual. Wiring and fuse details can have subtle variations.
  • Use Correct Fuses: Only ever replace with the exact amperage rating fuse (15A blue). Keeping spare fuses in the glovebox is prudent.
  • Safety Paramount: Always disconnect the battery negative terminal before fuses & relay work. Work in a well-ventilated area away from sparks/open flames. Handle fuel with extreme caution.
  • Methodical Diagnosis: Start simple (fuse, relay), then progress logically. Avoid assumptions. Don't condemn the fuel pump until basic electrical supply is verified. Check ground points.
  • Visualize and Trace: Follow the likely path of the fuel pump power wires (often Grey wire) and ground wires (Black wire) when looking for damage, especially common chafe points.
  • Identify Your Specific Model: While fuse position #17 is standard, knowing if your truck is a C/K series (classic GMT400 body style), 1500, 2500, 3500, or specific engine (e.g., VIN 5th digit: W=4.3L V6, Z=5.7L V8, etc.) is helpful for deeper troubleshooting.

Conclusion

Knowing the precise location and proper testing method for the 1999 Chevy Silverado fuel pump fuse (#17 in the passenger interior fuse box) is the critical first step in diagnosing many no-start or engine failure issues. While replacing a blown fuse might restore operation, it often signals an underlying electrical fault that requires careful investigation to prevent repeated failures and ensure long-term reliability and safety. If you encounter persistent blowing of the fuel pump fuse, pursuing a deeper diagnosis or seeking qualified professional help is strongly recommended.

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