1999 Chrysler Town and Country Fuel Pump: Your Ultimate Guide to Symptoms, Replacement, and Prevention

Your 1999 Chrysler Town and Country won't start? Sputtering or losing power while driving? A failing or failed fuel pump is one of the most likely critical culprits. This component is the heart of your fuel delivery system, responsible for getting gasoline from the tank to the engine under precise pressure. When it malfunctions, your minivan grinds to a halt. This comprehensive guide delves deep into everything you need to know about the 1999 Chrysler Town and Country fuel pump: recognizing the definitive signs of trouble, understanding the replacement process (DIY or professional), selecting the right part, troubleshooting effectively, and implementing preventive maintenance to avoid future breakdowns. Don't get stranded – arm yourself with the knowledge essential for keeping your aging minivan reliable.

Part 1: Recognizing the Symptoms of a Failing 1999 Chrysler Town and Country Fuel Pump

Ignoring early warnings leads to inconvenient and potentially dangerous failures. Learn these critical symptoms:

• Engine Cranks But Won't Start (No Fuel Delivery): This is the most common and definitive sign. The starter spins the engine normally, but there's no ignition because insufficient or zero fuel pressure reaches the injectors. A silent fuel pump (lack of priming hum when key turned to "ON" before cranking) strongly points to pump failure.
• Engine Sputtering, Hesitation, or Power Loss (Especially Under Load): A weak pump struggles to maintain adequate pressure. When accelerating, climbing hills, or carrying a heavy load, the engine demands more fuel than the failing pump can supply. This causes noticeable stumbling, hesitation, surges, or a complete loss of power that may resolve temporarily when demand decreases. Often worsens as the pump deteriorates further.
• Unusual Whining, Humming, or Buzzing Noise from the Fuel Tank: While fuel pumps normally emit a low hum for a few seconds at key-on, a loud, high-pitched whining, grinding, or buzzing noise coming from beneath the van near the rear (where the fuel tank sits) signals internal wear or imminent failure. The sound may change pitch or become louder under load.
• Vehicle Stalling Intermittently or Suddenly: A pump on its last legs may work intermittently. It might start and run fine initially, only to stall suddenly during operation. Sometimes restarting works briefly; other times, it won't restart until the pump cools down (though this is more common with ignition modules, it can happen with a failing pump motor). Consistent stalling strongly indicates fuel delivery issues.
• Difficulty Starting After Parking (Extended Cranking Time): Known as "long crank," this occurs when a warm engine is restarted after a short stop (e.g., grocery run). Heat affects a failing pump, making it harder to generate pressure after shutdown. The starter cranks significantly longer before the engine finally fires.
• Noticeable Drop in Fuel Efficiency: While less specific, a rapidly declining fuel economy figure (miles per gallon) can sometimes be tied to a failing pump forcing the engine control module to compensate for low fuel pressure by enriching the mixture unnecessarily.

Part 2: Common Causes of 1999 Chrysler Town and Country Fuel Pump Failure

Understanding why pumps fail informs diagnosis and prevention:

• Natural Wear and Tear/Electric Motor Failure: The internal electric motor brushes wear down over countless hours of operation. Bearings wear out. This is the primary failure mode for pumps on high-mileage vehicles like the average 1999 Town & Country (which could easily have 150,000+ miles).
• Contaminated Fuel: Dirt, rust particles from inside the tank or fuel lines, sediment, or water that bypasses the fuel filter can enter the pump. This abrasion damages internal components and accelerates wear. Poor quality fuel can also contribute.
• Electrical Connection Issues: Corrosion at the pump's electrical connector or the wiring harness terminals blocks current flow. Damaged wiring, chafed insulation causing shorts, poor ground connections, or blown fuses/relays in the fuel pump circuit will prevent the pump from running.
• Driving Consistently on Low Fuel: The fuel pump relies on surrounding gasoline for cooling and lubrication. Running the tank near empty regularly exposes the pump to higher heat levels and allows sediment from the bottom of the tank to be sucked in, drastically shortening its life.
• Clogged Fuel Filter: While the Town & Country filter is inline (not part of the pump module), a severely restricted filter forces the pump to work much harder against excessive backpressure. This strains the pump motor, causing overheating and premature failure.
• Damaged Pump or Sock Strainer from Tank Service: If the fuel tank was dropped previously (e.g., for a leak repair, pump replacement), the pump strainer ("sock") could have been damaged or dislodged, leading to debris ingestion or restricted flow. Improper installation during a prior service can cause immediate or latent issues.
• Ethanol Fuel Concerns: Long-term exposure to high ethanol content fuel blends (beyond the typical E10) can potentially contribute to degradation of certain components within older fuel systems, though less common on 1999 models specifically than on older carbureted vehicles. Stale fuel from infrequent use is a bigger concern for stored vehicles.

Part 3: Replacing the 1999 Chrysler Town and Country Fuel Pump: DIY or Professional?

Replacing the fuel pump is a significant task requiring preparation and care. This section outlines both approaches.

A. Pre-Replacement Diagnosis: Don't Guess, Test!

• Confirm Fuel Pressure: This is the most critical diagnostic step. Use a fuel pressure test kit that matches the Chrysler 3.8L engine's Schrader valve (test port) located on the fuel rail. Follow manual procedures: check KOEO (Key On Engine Off) pressure, pressure during cranking (if starts), running pressure, and pressure holding after shutdown. Compare readings to factory specs (typically around 49 psi +/- 5 psi for KOEO/Running). No/low pressure confirms a delivery problem (pump, filter, regulator, fuse/relay, wiring).
• Electrical Checks: If pressure is low/zero, verify:
  • Fuses: Locate the fuel pump fuse (usually in the underhood PDC or interior fuse box - consult owner's manual or repair guide, common ratings are 20A or 25A) and the fuel pump relay.
  • Relay: Listen for an audible click when an assistant turns the key to "ON". Swap with a known good relay of the same type (e.g., horn relay). Test relay terminals.
  • Power & Ground at Pump Connector: With the key turned to "ON" (briefly - pump primes for a few seconds), use a multimeter at the harness side of the pump connector (located near the top of the tank) to verify 12V+ and good ground signal. If absent, trace wiring issues.
• Inertia Switch: Locate the fuel pump inertia switch (SHUT OFF switch). On the 1999 T&C, it's typically inside the passenger compartment, often behind the trim panel to the right of the passenger's feet near the center console base or behind the glove box area. Ensure it hasn't been tripped (press the reset button firmly if it has). Check for power/ground at this switch.

B. DIY Replacement: Detailed Steps & Considerations

Warning: This job involves gasoline vapor, flammable liquid, significant disassembly, and working under the vehicle. Safety is paramount. Work outdoors or in a well-ventilated area. Disconnect the battery (negative terminal first). Have a Class B fire extinguisher ready. Don't smoke or have open flames nearby. Wear safety glasses. Place wheel chocks securely.

• Gather Tools & Parts: Jack stands, floor jack, wheel chocks, penetrating oil (like PB Blaster), socket wrenches (metric sockets, long extensions), line wrenches (fuel line fittings), fuel line disconnect tools (correct size for Chrysler's quick-connect fittings), torque wrench, screwdrivers, pliers, shop towels, catch pan capable of holding at least 20 liters, new OEM or quality aftermarket fuel pump module assembly (includes pump, strainer, level sender, seals), new O-rings/seals for tank filler neck/pump lock ring (if applicable), new fuel filter (recommended).
• Relieve Fuel System Pressure: Locate the fuel pressure test Schrader valve on the fuel rail. Place a rag over the valve and depress the pin briefly using a small screwdriver or dedicated tool. Caution: Gasoline will spray out under pressure. Collect it in a container.
• Drain the Fuel Tank: Safely lower the tank. The preferred method is siphoning/pumping fuel out through the filler neck using a dedicated transfer pump/hose. Alternative (messier): Disconnect hoses carefully after tank lowering.
• Lower the Fuel Tank:
  1. Safely raise the vehicle high enough for tank removal and place securely on jack stands. Support transmission if necessary.
  2. Remove rear passenger side tire/wheel for better access (optional but recommended).
  3. Disconnect filler hose from tank neck.
  4. Disconnect vapor line(s) from tank.
  5. Disconnect electrical connector to fuel pump.
  6. Disconnect fuel feed and return lines at the tank fittings using the correct disconnect tools (work carefully; plastic clips break). Protect fittings from dirt.
  7. Support the tank securely with your jack or dedicated tank support. Remove the tank strap bolts. Gently lower the tank a few inches.
• Remove & Disassemble the Pump Assembly:
  1. Once tank is accessible (lowered but potentially not fully out), locate the large plastic lock ring securing the pump module to the top of the tank.
  2. Clean any debris around the lock ring area thoroughly to prevent dirt falling into the tank.
  3. Using a brass punch/brass drift and a hammer (brass is non-sparking!), carefully tap the lock ring counterclockwise to unscrew it. (Note: Some modules use bolts instead – be prepared). Caution: Avoid sparks near fuel vapor.
  4. Lift the entire pump module assembly straight up and out of the tank. Avoid damaging the float arm. Have your catch pan ready for residual fuel.
  5. Carefully observe the pump orientation, hose connections, and electrical routing on the module before disconnecting anything internally (if necessary). Note sender float position. Modern replacements are typically complete assemblies.
• Install New Pump Module & Reassemble:
  1. Compare the old and new pump assemblies carefully. Transfer any critical components only if absolutely necessary and specified. Usually, install the entire new module.
  2. Ensure the tank opening flange and the new module's seal/gasket (lubricate lightly with clean motor oil or silicone grease if specified by manufacturer) are spotlessly clean.
  3. Carefully place the new assembly straight down into the tank, ensuring the fuel strainer sits correctly on the bottom and the float arm moves freely without binding. Rotate slightly to align mounting lugs if needed.
  4. Press firmly down to seat the module and replace the lock ring. Tap it clockwise securely with your brass tool to lock into place (or tighten bolts to specification).
• Reinstall Fuel Tank & Components:
  1. Carefully raise the tank back into position.
  2. Reinstall and tighten tank straps to proper torque specifications.
  3. Reconnect the fuel feed line, return line, vapor line(s), and electrical connector securely.
  4. Reconnect the filler neck hose securely.
• Reinstall Tire/Wheel (if removed).
• Lower Vehicle.
• Reconnect Battery (negative terminal last).
• Cycle Key & Check for Leaks: Turn key to "ON" (don't crank) for 2 seconds, off, wait 5 seconds, repeat 3-4 times. This primes the system. Carefully inspect ALL connections under the vehicle (fuel lines, tank top, filler neck) and at the fuel rail Schrader valve for any fuel leaks. Fix ANY leak immediately. Recheck pressure using gauge.
• Start Engine & Verify Operation: After confirming no leaks, start the engine. It may crank longer initially while air bleeds out. Listen for the new pump's healthy prime sound (quieter than the old one potentially). Verify smooth idle and acceleration.
• Reset Trip Computer/Fuel Gauge (If Needed): Drive the vehicle. The fuel gauge sender calibration typically sorts itself out after refilling the tank.

C. Professional Replacement: When to Choose a Mechanic

• Lack of Tools/Skill/Space: If you lack the necessary specialized tools (sockets, line tools, jack stands), confidence, or a safe work area, professional service is strongly advised.
• Complexity: Diagnosing wiring issues accurately, handling large tanks full of fuel, and dealing with rusted/frozen strap bolts or fittings require expertise.
• Time Constraints: This is a 4-8 hour job for a DIYer; a shop can do it more efficiently.
• Diagnostic Uncertainty: Professionals have extensive diagnostic tools and experience to pinpoint the exact cause (pump vs wiring vs relay vs ECU signal).
• Safety: Shops have fire safety equipment (fire suppression), professional lifts, and ventilation systems designed for fuel work. Warranties on parts and labor provide significant peace of mind. A botched DIY job can create dangerous leaks or electrical hazards.

Part 4: Choosing the Right Fuel Pump for Your 1999 Chrysler Town and Country

• OEM vs. Aftermarket: OEM parts offer guaranteed compatibility but are expensive. Reputable aftermarket brands (Delphi, Bosch, Carter, Denso, Airtex/MasterPro) offer reliable options at a lower cost. Avoid generic brands sold online.
• Complete Module Assembly: Strongly recommended. Most replacements come as a complete module (pump, strainer, level sender, reservoir/pressure regulator if applicable, seal, lock ring). This replaces everything at once, addresses common sender issues, and simplifies installation. Ensure the part listing matches your T&C's engine size (3.3L or 3.8L) year and trim accurately. Purchasing the pump alone requires sourcing a strainer and risks sender incompatibility or leaks.
• Where to Buy: Auto parts stores (Advance, AutoZone, O'Reilly's, NAPA), online retailers specializing in auto parts (RockAuto.com - excellent selection/price), dealer parts counter (OEM). Verify warranty period and return policy. Look for customer reviews specific to the application.
• Fuel Filter: Highly recommended to replace simultaneously. A clogged filter contributed to the old pump's demise and could damage the new one immediately.

Part 5: Troubleshooting After Replacement & Common Issues

• Engine Still Won't Start:
  • Did you reconnect the battery? Is the inertia switch reset?
  • Double-check all electrical connections (pump plug, inertia switch plug, ground points).
  • Verify fuel pump fuse and relay - relay could be faulty even if it clicks.
  • Confirm fuel pressure at the rail is now correct.
  • Ensure fuel lines aren't reversed (feed vs. return).
  • Was the pump adequately primed?
  • Revisit primary diagnosis – was the pump the only problem?
• Fuel Leak at Tank Top/Fittings:
  • Inspect the large sealing gasket – was it installed correctly? Is it damaged? Was the mating surface clean?
  • Check fuel line quick-connect fittings – are they fully seated? Are the internal seals in place (if separate)? Were the O-rings on the pump module ports damaged during install?
  • Check filler hose clamp tightness.
• Fuel Gauge Reads Inaccurate/Empty/Full Constantly:
  • Common after replacement. Drive for some time and let the tank level vary.
  • Ensure the float arm on the new sender wasn't bent during installation and moves freely throughout its range. The arm should point the same way as the old unit did before removal.
  • Double-check wiring connection at pump module plug.
• Pump Very Loud/Whining:
  • Some new pumps are louder initially but quieten. Confirm volume after driving.
  • Extremely loud noise or grinding suggests a potential defective new pump, incorrect installation (binding), or severe fuel starvation (clogged filter/sock, intake tube pinched during install).

Part 6: Preventing Premature 1999 Chrysler Town and Country Fuel Pump Failure

Extend the life of your new or existing fuel pump with these practices:

• Avoid Driving on Low Fuel: Refuel when the tank reaches 1/4 full whenever possible. This keeps the pump submerged in cooling fuel and reduces sediment ingestion.
• Use Quality Fuel Stations: Purchase fuel from busy, reputable stations known for clean tanks. While modern regulations help, less trafficked stations can have contaminated tanks.
• Replace the Fuel Filter Regularly: Follow the manufacturer's severe service replacement interval or replace every 30,000 miles as cheap insurance. Prevents excessive backpressure on the pump.
• Address Electrical Issues Promptly: Investigate any battery or charging system problems immediately. Poor voltage can strain the pump motor. Corrosion on battery terminals or connections needs cleaning.
• Inspect Wiring: Periodically inspect visible wiring near the fuel tank and pump connector for damage, chafing, or rodent activity. Secure any loose wires.
• Address Fuel Tank Issues: If the fuel tank needs removal due to a leak or internal contamination (rust), replacing the fuel pump at the same time is highly economical as the access labor is already being performed.
• Store Properly for Long Periods: If storing the van, use a fuel stabilizer and fill the tank completely to minimize condensation and fuel degradation. Run the engine periodically if possible.

Part 7: Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)

• How much does a 1999 Chrysler Town and Country fuel pump replacement cost?
  • Part (Complete Module): $150-$400+ (aftermarket quality to OEM).
  • Professional Labor: 3 - 5 hours typical = $300-$750+ (depending on labor rate).
  • Fuel Filter: $15-$30 + additional labor.
  • Total Professional Estimate: $450-$1200+.
  • DIY Cost: $150-$400+ for parts/tools you may not have.
• Can a fuel pump be repaired instead of replaced?
  • No. Modern fuel pumps are non-serviceable units. The internal motor cannot be repaired economically or safely. Replacement of the entire module assembly is the only viable solution.
• Is the fuel pump in the tank?
  • Yes. The fuel pump module assembly is mounted inside the fuel tank on the 1999 Chrysler Town and Country, accessed by lowering the tank.
• Does the fuel pump work all the time?
  • No. The pump primes for a few seconds when you turn the key to "ON". It runs continuously only while the engine is cranking or running. It shuts off immediately if the engine stops or the key is turned off. It also shuts off if the inertia switch trips (impact).
• What tools do I need to remove the fuel tank?
  • Floor jack, sturdy jack stands, wheel chocks, penetrating oil, appropriate metric socket set (including deep sockets, extensions), line wrenches, fuel line disconnect tools (specific to the vehicle's quick connects), possibly a brass punch/drift and hammer for the lock ring, screwdrivers, pliers, large drain pan, siphon pump/hose.
• Why change the fuel filter when replacing the pump?
  • A clogged filter stresses the pump and reduces its lifespan significantly. Since the labor is partially overlapping (for accessing lines), and the filter itself is inexpensive, it's negligent not to replace it simultaneously with a new pump. It ensures clean fuel flow to the new component.

Conclusion: Keeping Your 1999 Town & Country Running Strong

Your 1999 Chrysler Town and Country fuel pump is a robust component, but age and mileage will eventually take their toll. By understanding the critical symptoms – like no-start, sputtering, and unusual noises – you can diagnose issues promptly before being completely stranded. Confirming fuel pressure is mandatory before condemning the pump itself. Replacing the fuel pump is a major task, but feasible for prepared DIYers using a complete module assembly, prioritizing safety precautions and following detailed steps meticulously. For most owners, professional installation offers critical diagnostic expertise, speed, safety, and warranty protection. Choosing a high-quality replacement and replacing the fuel filter simultaneously are essential investments. Implementing preventive maintenance habits, primarily avoiding low fuel levels, is the single best way to maximize the lifespan of your new pump and keep your faithful T&C reliably on the road for miles to come. Knowledge and proactive care are your best defenses against this common failure on aging vehicles.