1999 Dodge Intrepid Fuel Pump Location: Your Complete Access & Replacement Guide

The fuel pump on a 1999 Dodge Intrepid is located inside the fuel tank itself. Access is gained by removing the rear seat bottom cushion and then lifting a service panel built directly into the floor of the trunk. Unlike many vehicles where dropping the entire fuel tank is required, Chrysler designed the LH platform cars (like the Intrepid) with relatively convenient interior access to the fuel pump module.

Understanding this location is critical for diagnosing fuel delivery issues and performing replacements. This guide provides the detailed steps, essential safety precautions, and practical tips needed to locate, access, and replace the fuel pump on your 1999 Dodge Intrepid correctly and safely.

Why the Location Inside the Tank Matters

Fuel pumps are primarily mounted inside the fuel tank for several key engineering reasons:

  1. Cooling: Submerging the electric pump motor in liquid gasoline acts as a coolant, preventing it from overheating during operation, especially during low-fuel conditions or extended running times.
  2. Priming: Being submerged allows the pump to prime itself more easily and maintain consistent fuel pressure at the engine, crucial for reliable starting and performance.
  3. Noise Reduction: The surrounding fuel and the tank structure itself help dampen the operational noise generated by the electric motor, resulting in a quieter ride.
  4. Space Utilization: Packaging the pump assembly inside the tank saves space under the vehicle, which is particularly important in front-wheel-drive platforms like the Intrepid with complex exhaust and suspension components.

Therefore, accessing the pump requires getting to it through the top of the tank, which, in the Intrepid's case, is cleverly positioned under a trunk floor panel, avoiding the cumbersome process of tank removal.

Essential Safety Precautions: Non-Negotiable Steps

Working with gasoline is inherently dangerous. Ignoring these critical safety steps can lead to fire, explosion, or severe injury. Always prioritize safety above all else:

  1. Disconnect the Battery: This is your absolute first action. Locate the negative (-) battery terminal under the hood. Use the correct sized wrench (typically 10mm) to loosen the clamp bolt. Carefully remove the negative cable and position it well away from the battery terminal. Secure it so it cannot accidentally flop back and make contact. This prevents sparks that could ignite gasoline vapors during work.
  2. Relieve Fuel System Pressure: Before disconnecting any fuel lines, you MUST depressurize the system. Locate the Schrader valve on the fuel injector rail at the engine (it resembles a tire valve stem). Cover it with a thick rag. Carefully depress the valve core using a small screwdriver, fuel pressure gauge tip, or a dedicated valve depressor tool. Hold it until fuel stops spraying or hissing out (signifying pressure is gone). Be ready to catch escaping fuel with the rag. Caution: Eye protection is crucial as fuel can spray forcefully initially. Work in a well-ventilated area.
  3. Work in a Well-Ventilated Area: Never work in a closed garage. Open doors and windows. Gasoline vapors are heavier than air and accumulate in low spaces – ensure airflow moves vapors away from the work zone.
  4. NO Ignition Sources: Ban all open flames, sparks, cigarettes, pilot lights, electric space heaters, grinding tools – anything that could ignite fumes. Have a Class B fire extinguisher rated for flammable liquids immediately accessible at your workspace.
  5. Drain or Minimize Fuel: While not strictly mandatory for access due to the top-entry design, having minimal fuel in the tank significantly reduces the risk of spills during removal. Run the car until near empty before starting, or safely siphon fuel from the tank after disconnecting the battery and relieving pressure. Keep ample absorbent materials (kitty litter, sand, specialized pads) nearby for spills. Have containers suitable for gasoline ready.
  6. Clean the Work Area: Before opening the access panel, thoroughly vacuum or clean the trunk floor area surrounding the panel. You want to prevent dirt and debris from falling into the open fuel tank when you remove the pump module.

Tools and Materials You Will Need

Gathering the correct tools before starting saves time and frustration:

  • Basic Hand Tools: Assortment of sockets and ratchets (metric: 10mm, 13mm, 15mm common), wrenches (metric), long extensions (helpful for deep lock ring).
  • Fuel Pump Lock Ring Tool (Special Tool #6826 or Universal Scalloped Tool): This is NOT optional. The lock ring securing the pump module is large, often extremely tight, and has scalloped notches. A dedicated lock ring spanner wrench is essential. A large screwdriver and hammer can work but is far less safe, risks damaging the ring or tank, and increases the chance of slips causing sparks or spills. Invest in the correct tool.
  • Torque Wrench: For reassembly to ensure the lock ring and electrical connections are tightened to proper specifications without overtightening.
  • Floor Jack and Jack Stands: Required if you need to slightly raise the rear end for better access to fuel lines underneath the car if your replacement plan involves removing them from the pump module.
  • Drain Pan / Gasoline Containers: Approved plastic fuel-safe containers and a large, clean catch pan for any spills.
  • Shop Towels and Absorbent Pads: For cleanup.
  • New Fuel Pump Strainer (Sock Filter): Highly Recommended. This inexpensive filter on the pump inlet gets clogged over time. Always replace it with the pump.
  • New O-Ring/Gasket: The pump module comes with a large O-ring seal. Using the old one will likely cause leaks. Most new pumps include this seal. Verify you have it. Ensure it's lightly lubricated with clean engine oil or petroleum jelly only during installation (NEVER silicone grease near fuel).
  • Work Gloves and Safety Glasses: Essential protection.

Detailed Location and Step-by-Step Access Instructions

Now that you’re prepared with safety measures and tools, here’s how to locate and access the 1999 Intrepid’s fuel pump:

  1. Remove Rear Seat Bottom Cushion:

    • Enter the rear passenger area. The bottom seat cushion clips in near the front edge.
    • Place your hands firmly near the center of the front edge of the cushion. Push straight down firmly. While pushing down, pull upwards sharply towards the rear of the car. This should unlatch the cushion.
    • Slide the cushion forward slightly to disengage it from the rear clips/latches and remove it from the car. Set it aside safely. This reveals the carpeted trunk floor.

  2. Locate and Open the Trunk Floor Access Panel:

    • Open the trunk.
    • Lift or peel back the carpeting directly underneath the rear seat area you just uncovered. You are looking for a large, flat, metal panel integrated into the trunk floor structure. It is usually rectangular or oval-shaped and may have some sound-deadening material on it. It is significantly larger than any body plugs.
    • Identify and remove any bolts or screws securing this panel around its perimeter (most Intrepids of this vintage use several 10mm head bolts). Remove these fasteners completely.

  3. Expose the Fuel Pump Module:

    • Carefully lift the metal access panel straight up and out. Set it aside. Underneath, you will see the top of the fuel tank and the large, circular fuel pump module assembly secured by the distinctive scalloped lock ring.
    • The module consists of a large plastic or metal ring (the lock ring) surrounding the main pump/sender unit body. You will see the electrical connector plugged into the top center of the module. Two large fuel lines (supply and return) also connect to the top of the module and pass through holes in the trunk floor adjacent to the module. Take a picture or make a note of which line goes where before disconnecting. This is crucial for reassembly.
    • Observe the lock ring closely: It has slots designed for the specific lock ring tool. It may have arrows indicating the direction to turn for removal (usually counter-clockwise).

  4. Disconnect Electrical Connector:

    • Find the wiring harness connector plugged into the top of the pump module. Identify the locking tab mechanism (it might be a squeeze tab, slide lock, or simple press clip).
    • Release the locking tab carefully. Do not force it – understand how it releases. Firmly pull the connector straight off the module terminals. Avoid pulling on the wires themselves.
    • Tuck the connector safely aside, away from the work area.

  5. Disconnect Fuel Lines (Under Vehicle - May Be Optional):

    • Option 1 (Simpler, if replacing pump with fuel lines attached): Some replacement pump modules come with pre-attached fuel lines. In this case, you must disconnect the lines from their engine compartment/rail ends OR disconnect them underneath the vehicle where they attach to metal hardlines near the fuel tank. Accessing these points usually requires jacking up the rear end securely on jack stands and working under the car near the tank. Use a proper fuel line disconnect tool set for the plastic quick-connect fittings. Label lines meticulously!
    • Option 2 (Preferred for less mess inside trunk): Leave the lines connected to the pump module. You will disconnect them at the module itself after it’s loose in the next steps. This avoids going under the car initially but requires care when lifting the module out to avoid kinking or straining lines.

  6. Remove the Lock Ring:

    • Place your dedicated fuel pump lock ring tool into the notches on the ring. Ensure it's firmly seated. Using a large hammer, tap the handle of the tool sharply counter-clockwise to break the ring free. Do NOT use excessive force – controlled striking is key. Once broken loose, you can usually continue turning the ring counter-clockwise by hand or with the tool until it completely unthreads.
    • Warning: The lock ring can be extremely tight due to corrosion, fuel varnish, and age. Apply penetrating oil (like PB Blaster) around the ring/tank seam from above beforehand if it seems stuck. Allow it time to soak (10-15 minutes). Patience and proper tool use are essential to avoid slipping, damaging the tank, or causing sparks.

  7. Lift Out the Fuel Pump Module:

    • Once the lock ring is fully unthreaded, lift it straight up off the tank. Set it aside.
    • You can now gently grasp the pump module assembly itself. It might feel adhered by the old gasket/seal. Carefully twist and rock the module slightly back and forth while pulling straight up.
    • Crucial: If you did not disconnect the fuel lines under the car (Option 2 above), you must disconnect the quick-connect fittings now at the pump module itself. Find the quick connect couplings right where the lines attach to the module top. Depress the locking tabs/collars using your fingers or a small flat screwdriver carefully, and pull the lines straight off the module. Be ready for some fuel spillage. Place the lines carefully aside. Have your catch pan underneath.
    • Lift the entire module assembly straight out of the tank opening. Keep it level to avoid spilling residual fuel and to prevent damaging the float arm. Place it gently onto shop towels or your catch pan.

Inside the Tank: The Pump Assembly Explained

With the module removed, you can clearly see its components:

  1. Electric Fuel Pump: Located at the very bottom of the assembly. This submerged motor is the heart, pulling fuel from the tank and pressurizing it. The pump itself is the cylindrical metallic object near the bottom.
  2. Fuel Strainer (Sock Filter): Attached to the pump's inlet tube. It's a mesh sock filter that prevents larger debris from entering the pump. This is why replacing it is crucial – old socks get clogged.
  3. Fuel Level Sending Unit: A sliding contact component attached to a hinged arm with a float at the end. As the float rises and falls with fuel level, it changes resistance, telling the gauge how much fuel is in the tank. Be very careful not to bend this arm when handling the module.
  4. Main Reservoir and Internal Hoses: Some modules incorporate a plastic reservoir surrounding the pump. Internal hoses transfer fuel to the outlet on top.
  5. Main Body and Mounting Flange: The large plastic or metal carrier that holds all components. The top of this flange has the electrical terminal contacts and fuel line connections. This flange seals against the tank opening via the large O-ring.
  6. Pick-Up Tube: Extends down from the pump/strainer into the fuel.

Inspecting and Servicing the Module (Repair or Replacement)

  • Replacement: Most commonly, the entire pump module assembly is replaced. Ensure your new part matches the specifications for your 1999 Intrepid (engine size is critical – 2.7L vs 3.2L/3.5L). Confirm it includes the new O-ring and strainer filter. Always replace the strainer. Follow manufacturer instructions if the pump needs to be transferred to your old module (less common).
  • Cleaning: Briefly inspect the inside of the tank opening for excessive debris or rust. Use a clean rag lightly dampened with fresh gas to wipe debris from the tank mounting surface. Avoid dropping anything into the tank. Inspect the tank vent tubes around the opening – ensure they are clear.

Installation: Putting it Back Together Correctly

Reinstallation is essentially the reverse of removal, with critical attention to detail:

  1. Prepare the New Module: Install the new strainer (sock filter) onto the pump inlet tube if not pre-installed. Verify the new O-ring is clean. Lightly lubricate the entire outer circumference of the O-ring with a tiny amount of clean engine oil, automatic transmission fluid, or petroleum jelly only. Do not use silicone-based grease. Seat the O-ring properly into the groove on the module’s mounting flange.
  2. Align and Install Module: Carefully lower the new module assembly straight down into the tank opening. Ensure the float arm has freedom to move and doesn't get caught. Carefully rotate the module if needed to align the electrical connector and fuel line outlets with their respective slots/holes in the trunk floor above. If disconnecting fuel lines at the module, reconnect them before seating the flange onto the tank – ensure they click firmly into place. Gently press the module flange down firmly and evenly onto the tank seat until it’s fully seated. Check that the O-ring hasn’t rolled or pinched.
  3. Install Lock Ring: Place the lock ring over the module flange. Ensure it seats correctly into the tank groove. Using your lock ring tool and hammer, tap it clockwise until hand-tight. Continue tightening with the tool until the ring is firmly and evenly seated. Critical: Refer to a service manual for the torque specification if possible (often around 35-45 ft-lbs), but firm tightening by feel is common in practice. Avoid extreme force that could crack the plastic tank seat or ring. It should be snug and secure.
  4. Reconnect Electrical Harness: Ensure the connector is clean and undamaged. Align it correctly and push it firmly onto the module terminals until you hear/feel a distinct click as the locking mechanism engages. Give it a gentle tug to confirm it’s secure.
  5. Reconnect Under-Vehicle Fuel Lines (If Applicable): If you disconnected the lines under the car (Option 1), now is the time to reconnect them. Ensure you connect the correct line to the correct hardline. Use new plastic retaining clips if supplied with the pump or if the old ones are damaged. Verify the connections "click" securely.
  6. Turn Key ON (Do Not Start) – Priming Check: Before closing everything up, reconnect the car battery. Turn the ignition key to the "ON" position (not Start) and pause for 2-3 seconds. You should hear the fuel pump run briefly to prime the system. Turn the key back off. Listen closely: A distinct humming sound for 1-3 seconds coming from the tank area indicates the pump is receiving power and activating.
  7. Leak Check (IMPERATIVE): This is absolutely vital.
    • Before closing the access panel: Visually inspect around the pump module flange and O-ring for any immediate dripping. Smell for strong fuel odors.
    • After Battery Reconnect & Priming: Carefully inspect all connections at the module top (if exposed) and underneath the car where you may have disconnected lines. Look for drips or wetness.
    • Full Pressure Check: Once reassembled, start the engine. Let it idle. With the engine running, carefully re-inspect all accessible connection points around the pump module flange and fuel lines for leaks. Run your fingers (carefully, avoid hot parts) near connections – you can often feel small leaks before you see them. Shut off the engine immediately if any leak is detected and re-trace your steps.
  8. Reinstall Access Panel: Once absolutely confident there are no leaks, place the metal access panel back into position over the pump module. Reinstall the retaining bolts/screfs and tighten them securely.
  9. Replace Carpeting and Rear Seat Cushion: Lay the trunk carpeting back flat. Reinstall the rear seat bottom cushion by aligning it with the hooks near the rear, then pushing down firmly near the front edge until both clips engage.

Testing Your Work After Installation

  1. Key On Engine Off (KOEO) Prime Test: As mentioned before, you should hear the pump run for a few seconds after turning the key to "ON". If you don’t hear it now, something is wrong (fuse, relay, wiring, or faulty pump).
  2. Start Test: Attempt to start the engine. It should start more readily than before (if the old pump was failing), assuming other systems are healthy.
  3. Engine Running Test: Let the engine run at idle. Listen for unusual noises from the pump (loud whining, screeching could indicate issues, though new pumps are often louder initially).
  4. Pressure Test (Recommended): The most definitive test is using a fuel pressure gauge. Connect it to the Schrader valve on the fuel injector rail. Check the pressure reading with the key on (engine off) – it should meet specs (around 49-55 psi for LH engines is typical, verify your specific engine specs) and hold for several minutes after prime without significant bleed-down. Check pressure at idle and under load if possible. This verifies pump performance and system integrity post-repair.
  5. Driving Test: Once confident in pressure, take the car for a short, gentle drive. Test acceleration, cruising, and starting after brief stops. Ensure there is no hesitation, stumbling, or loss of power that would indicate fuel starvation or pressure loss.
  6. Recheck for Leaks: After the engine is fully warmed up and you've driven it, park the car and visually inspect again around the access panel area inside the trunk and underneath the car near fuel lines for any signs of leaks. Some weeping around fittings can occur until O-rings/swell slightly from fuel contact, but persistent dripping requires immediate attention.

Crucial Things to Avoid: Common Mistakes

  • Skipping Safety Steps: Not disconnecting the battery or relieving pressure is asking for disaster.
  • Using Incorrect Tools: Not using a lock ring tool risks damage and sparks. Using the wrong size wrenches strips fasteners.
  • Not Labeling Fuel Lines: Mixing up supply and return lines causes severe running problems.
  • Reusing Old Seals: A leaky O-ring means dropping the tank or accessing the module again. Always use the new O-ring. Always replace the strainer.
  • Forcing Connections: If something isn't aligning, stop and figure out why instead of forcing it, breaking connectors or float arms.
  • Dropping Parts/Tools into Tank: Be meticulous. Tape over the tank opening immediately after pulling the module if you need to step away.
  • Ignoring Leaks: "Just a drip" is dangerous and unacceptable with gasoline.
  • Not Testing Properly: Relying solely on "it started" without pressure checks and leak checks leads to future problems or potential failures.
  • Bending the Float Arm: This leads to inaccurate fuel gauge readings.

When to Seek Professional Help

While this repair is designed for DIY access, recognize your limitations:

  • If the lock ring is completely frozen and soaking/breaking tools won't free it.
  • If you discover significant rust or damage inside the tank.
  • If you disconnect the fuel lines under the car and discover they are brittle, cracked, or the quick-connect fittings are damaged.
  • If you lack the proper safety equipment or a safe place to work.
  • If the new pump doesn't prime or run, and you've checked fuses and relays (in the under-hood Power Distribution Center) successfully. Diagnosing wiring faults can be complex.
  • If, after installation, you suspect leaks you can't trace or persistent running issues despite your efforts.

A professional mechanic has specialized tools (scan tools, pressure gauges, advanced diagnostics), a safe lift, and experience to handle complications efficiently and safely.

Maintaining Your New Fuel Pump

To maximize the life of your new fuel pump:

  • Keep Fuel Above 1/4 Tank: Running consistently low on fuel forces the pump to work harder and reduces its cooling ability. Make it a habit to refill before the quarter-tank mark.
  • Use Clean Fuel: Fill up at reputable stations. While modern fuel is clean, dirty gas with sediment can accelerate strainer clogging. Address any known water contamination immediately.
  • Replace Fuel Filter Regularly: The Intrepid has an external inline fuel filter located along the frame rail (usually driver's side near fuel tank/rear suspension). This filter protects the injectors, but a badly clogged filter also causes the pump to strain excessively. Follow your maintenance schedule for its replacement (often every 30,000 miles or so, check your manual). Replacing this filter after a pump replacement is often recommended to prevent new pump contamination.

Conclusion

Locating and accessing the fuel pump on your 1999 Dodge Intrepid is significantly simplified thanks to its top-mounted access through the trunk floor under the rear seat. You'll find it secured inside the fuel tank, reachable by removing the rear seat cushion and trunk access panel. Understanding this specific location allows you to accurately diagnose fuel system problems and approach replacement efficiently. By meticulously following the detailed safety procedures, using the correct tools (especially the lock ring wrench), carefully handling the module, replacing critical seals and the strainer, and performing rigorous leak and functional testing, you can successfully restore reliable fuel delivery to your Intrepid. Remember to prioritize safety at every step—gasoline vapors are extremely hazardous—and don't hesitate to seek professional assistance if the job presents unexpected complications beyond your comfort level. Properly maintaining your new pump will ensure years of dependable service.

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