1999 Ford Contour Fuel Pump Location: Direct Access Under the Rear Seat

The fuel pump in your 1999 Ford Contour is located inside the fuel tank, accessed through an easily removable plastic panel hidden beneath the rear seat cushion. Unlike many vehicles requiring dropping the fuel tank, Ford designed the Contour with significant serviceability in mind for fuel pump replacement. The most challenging part of the job usually involves removing stubborn clips and ensuring a clean work area. This guide provides a comprehensive, step-by-step walkthrough focused specifically on the 1999 Ford Contour, ensuring you know precisely where to find the fuel pump, how to access it, perform the replacement, and vital safety steps.

Understanding the Fuel Pump System in Your 1999 Contour

The fuel pump is an electric motor submerged within the fuel tank. Its primary function is to draw gasoline from the tank and deliver it under consistent, high pressure to the fuel rail feeding the engine's fuel injectors. A faulty pump manifests through several recognizable symptoms. Complete failure means the engine won't crank or start, as no fuel reaches the engine. Partial failure often causes difficulty starting, requiring extended cranking. You might notice hesitation, stumbling, or a significant lack of power when accelerating, especially under load like climbing a hill. Sudden engine stalling while driving is another critical warning sign. Hearing a loud whining or buzzing noise originating from the rear of the car, particularly when the ignition is turned on or during operation, directly points toward pump problems. Less frequently, a strong smell of gasoline permeating the cabin can sometimes originate from a leak associated with the pump module's seals or connections. Diagnosing accurately before replacing the pump is crucial. Rule out simpler causes like an empty fuel tank, a blown fuel pump fuse in the main fuse panel under the hood, or a faulty fuel pump relay often located in the same panel. The 1999 Contour also features an inertia safety switch designed to cut fuel pump power after an impact; ensure this switch hasn't been inadvertently tripped. Using a basic fuel pressure test gauge kit attached to the Schrader valve on the fuel rail is the most reliable method to confirm pump health – consult your Contour's manual or a reliable repair database for the specific pressure range.

Crucial Pre-Work Safety: Handling Gasoline and Electricity

Safety must be the absolute priority. Gasoline is extremely flammable; working with the fuel system demands strict precautions. Perform the entire procedure in a well-ventilated area, ideally outdoors or in a garage with doors wide open. Never allow open flames, sparks, or devices creating sparks anywhere near the work area – this includes cigarettes, lighters, pilot lights, and even ordinary electrical switches. Ground yourself frequently by touching unpainted metal on the car body before handling any pump components to dissipate static electricity. Have a Class B fire extinguisher immediately accessible. Always disconnect the battery's negative terminal first, securing it away from the terminal post before starting any work to prevent accidental electrical shorts or sparks. Recognize that fuel lines remain pressurized even after the engine is off. Failing to properly relieve this pressure before disconnecting lines can spray fuel forcefully. The fuel tank itself, even if partially drained, contains volatile gasoline vapors.

Necessary Tools and Materials

Gathering the right tools streamlines the process. You'll need a standard set of wrenches and sockets (metric sizes, commonly 8mm, 10mm, 13mm), screwdrivers (flathead and Phillips head), a pair of sturdy pliers or channel locks, and a fuel line disconnect tool set specifically designed for Ford's unique plastic quick-release fittings common on 90s models (ensure the tool set includes the correct diameter sizes for the fuel lines on your vehicle, typically 3/8" and 5/16"). A torque wrench capable of low inch-pound settings is highly recommended for reassembly. Supplies include rags to absorb spills, a drain pan suitable for gasoline if planning to lower the tank partially, safety glasses, chemical-resistant gloves designed for fuel handling, and a new fuel pump assembly for the 1999 Ford Contour (including a new strainer/sock filter and O-ring seals). Having dielectric grease on hand for electrical connectors and possibly some nylon line to hang the tank if draining is useful.

Locating and Accessing the Fuel Pump Module

1. Prepare the Vehicle: Park the Contour on a level, stable surface. Engage the parking brake firmly. Disconnect the battery negative cable first. Locate the rear seat cushion.
2. Remove the Rear Seat Cushion: Lift the front edge of the rear seat bottom cushion firmly upwards. It's secured by spring clips and should pop free. Remove it completely from the car.
3. Locate the Access Cover: Beneath the seat cushion, directly over the fuel tank area, you'll see the rear seat floor pan. Near the center, you should find a large plastic access cover plate. This cover is roughly rectangular and may have subtle ribs. It's secured by several screws around its perimeter. On some Contour models, part of the floor carpet might be adhered to this cover, necessitating careful separation. This cover is the gateway.
4. Remove the Access Cover: Using the appropriate screwdriver or socket, remove all screws securing the plastic access cover. Set them aside safely. Lift the cover off. Important: There will be a wiring harness connected to the top of the fuel pump module visible below. DO NOT pull on the wiring harness. Carefully feel around the edges of the cover to ensure no wires are pinched or attached before fully lifting it off. This cover may have sound deadening material attached. Underneath, you see the top of the fuel pump module assembly. You can now clearly access the fuel pump itself.

The Fuel Pump Module Assembly Explained

The component accessed under the cover is the fuel pump module assembly. It includes the fuel pump itself, the fuel level sending unit (float and sensor), a fuel strainer (sock filter), integrated fuel lines, the fuel pressure regulator (mounted on this assembly for many Ford models of this era), and the large locking ring securing everything to the tank. The electrical connector supplies power to the pump and carries fuel level data back to the gauge. The visible fuel lines connect the module to the vehicle's hard fuel lines. This assembly slides vertically into the tank opening sealed by a large O-ring. The pump is electrically connected to the top of the module. While replacing just the pump motor inside the module is technically possible, it's intricate and often risks damaging the level sending unit or seals. Replacing the entire module assembly is the most reliable and recommended approach for the 1999 Contour.

Draining or Lowering the Fuel Tank: Is it Necessary?

A major advantage of the top access design is that draining the tank is frequently avoidable unless it is exceptionally full. With the access cover removed, you work above the remaining fuel. Prevent fuel spills by ensuring the tank level is well below the top access opening. Aim to have less than 1/4 tank of fuel. This minimizes spillage and reduces module weight. If the tank is full, you must drain it safely. Locate the drain plug on the fuel tank (if equipped – many Contour tanks lack one). Alternatively, disconnect the fuel feed line at the engine bay's fuel rail Schrader valve and place it safely into a large, approved gasoline container. Power the pump momentarily by jumpering the fuel pump relay socket to activate the pump and pump fuel out. Exercise extreme caution; this involves pressurized fuel. Releasing pressure via the engine bay Schrader valve first is mandatory. Lowering the tank partially by loosening the tank straps can provide extra working room but requires strong support like jack stands with wood blocks and a secondary jack solely for tank support. Avoid putting your body under the tank unless it's securely blocked. This step adds complexity; top access usually suffices if fuel level is low.

Removing the Old Fuel Pump Module

1. Disconnect Electrical: Depress the locking tab(s) on the electrical connector plug attached to the top of the module. Disconnect the plug carefully. Note its orientation.
2. Relieve System Pressure: Before disconnecting fuel lines, depressurize the system. While engine running, locate the Schrader valve on the engine's fuel rail (it resembles a tire valve stem). Cover the valve with a thick rag and carefully depress the valve core to release pressure – expect a brief spurt of fuel. Shut off the engine. Alternatively, find the fuel pump fuse in the under-hood fuse box, start the engine, let it run until it stalls naturally (pressure depletes), crank for a few more seconds, then reinsert the fuse. Now proceed under the car.
3. Disconnect Fuel Lines: Wipe clean the fuel lines connected to the module. Ford uses unique quick-connect fittings requiring a specific plastic tool. Slide the correct sized disconnect tool onto each line, pushing it firmly towards the module until it seats correctly over the locking fingers. While holding the tool fully seated, pull the fuel line straight off the module's nipple. Be prepared for some residual fuel spillage; have rags ready. Label or note which line is supply and return.
4. Remove the Locking Ring: This is often the trickiest step. The large plastic ring screws onto the fuel tank neck, securing the module flange. It has locking tabs or notches. Strike the ring firmly with a brass punch (or screwdriver handle using wood block) counterclockwise to break initial resistance. Wrap a rag around it for grip or use special locking ring removal tools. Never strike the ring itself directly with a steel hammer to avoid cracks. Continue rotating the ring counterclockwise until it unscrews completely. Be patient; it might be tight. Lift the ring off.
5. Remove the Module: Grasp the module assembly firmly near its top flange. Carefully lift it straight up and out of the fuel tank. Angle it slightly as needed once partially out to clear the tank opening. Watch for the float arm to avoid bending it. Have rags ready under the module as it exits – residual fuel will drip. Move the old pump module to a drain pan immediately.

Installing the New Fuel Pump Module

1. Prepare the New Module: Carefully unpack the new assembly. Ensure the new rubber O-ring seal is correctly seated in its groove on the top of the module body. Use the new seal provided. Lightly lubricate this O-ring with clean, unused engine oil or gasoline – never use petroleum-based grease. Avoid grease contamination.
2. Insert the New Module: Carefully align the new module with the tank opening. Pay close attention to the orientation of the module's electrical connector and fuel line nipples – ensure they will align correctly with the car's wiring and hoses. Carefully insert the module float arm first into the tank. Lower the module assembly straight down. Ensure the bottom clears and seats properly. The module flange must sit flat and level against the tank surface all around.
3. Install the Locking Ring: Place the plastic locking ring onto the tank neck, ensuring its lugs align correctly with the module tabs or notches. Tap or push the ring clockwise until it starts to engage threads. Tighten it firmly by hand. Then, using a brass punch or the tool, strike the ring firmly clockwise until it is fully seated and appears level. Do not overtighten excessively. It should feel snug, and the module flange should be tightly compressed against the tank seal. Excessive force can crack the plastic ring or damage the tank neck.
4. Reconnect Fuel Lines: Wipe clean the module's fuel nipples. Take the correct fuel line and align it perfectly with its nipple. Push the line firmly straight on until you hear/feel a distinct click indicating the quick-connect locking fingers have engaged. Pull gently on the line to confirm it is locked. A significant tug should not remove it. Repeat for all lines, ensuring correct connection (supply vs. return). Double-check connections for security.
5. Reconnect Electrical: Reattach the main electrical connector to the module plug. Push firmly until the locking tab(s) click audibly into place. Confirm the connector is fully seated and locked.

Reassembly and Testing

1. Clean Up: Wipe away any spilled gasoline immediately using rags dedicated for fuel cleanup. Ensure the access area is clean and dry. Avoid leaving fuel-soaked rags bunched up; dispose of them safely outside immediately.
2. Replace the Access Cover: Carefully place the large plastic access cover back over the opening, ensuring no wires are pinched underneath. Make sure it seats flat against the floor pan. Install all the screws and tighten them securely.
3. Replace the Rear Seat Cushion: Position the seat cushion over its mounting points. Press down firmly on the front edge until it snaps back onto the spring clips. Ensure it is stable and feels secure.
4. Reconnect Battery: Reconnect the battery negative cable and tighten the clamp securely.
5. Prime the System: Turn the ignition key to the "ON" position (do not crank). Listen near the rear seat. You should hear the fuel pump run for 2-3 seconds as it builds pressure, then stop. If you don't hear it, verify ignition power and connections. Repeat this step 2-3 times to fully prime the system.
6. Test for Leaks: Perform a final leak check. Visually inspect all fuel line connections at the pump module and in the engine bay around the fuel rail. Sniff for gasoline odor.
7. Start the Engine: Crank the engine. It should start within a few seconds. If it doesn't start immediately after a new pump install, crank for no longer than 10 seconds at a time, waiting 60 seconds between attempts to avoid overheating the new pump. Verify smooth idle and listen for unusual noises from the pump.
8. Road Test: After a successful start and a brief warm-up, take the car for a careful road test. Verify power, acceleration, and that the fuel gauge operates correctly. Watch for hesitation or stalling, though issues shouldn't arise if connections are secure.

Common Pitfalls and Troubleshooting Tips

• Stuck Locking Ring: Apply penetrating oil around the ring threads if the module is already out and tank is drained. Otherwise, focus firm, careful blows with the brass punch/hammer setup. Use special locking ring tools designed for Ford applications.
• Leaking Fuel: An improperly seated new O-ring is the prime suspect. Ensure it wasn't pinched, nicked, or damaged during installation and was lubricated only with fuel or engine oil. Over-tightening the locking ring can also warp components. Ensure quick-connect lines clicked fully.
• Pump Doesn't Run: Double-check the battery connection. Verify the fuel pump fuse and relay are good (swap the relay with a similar one like the horn relay temporarily). Trace the connector plug at the module – is it receiving 12 volts when the key is turned on? Ground connection must also be solid. Listen at the module access hole during key-on.
• Poor Performance After Installation: Did you replace the fuel filter? A clogged filter downstream can negate a new pump's benefit. Check fuel pressure at the rail. Ensure all vacuum lines are connected properly, especially to the pressure regulator on the module.
• Fuel Gauge Inaccurate: If level readings are wrong, a damaged level sending unit during installation or a faulty new unit is likely. Double-check float arm alignment. Requires module removal/replacement.
• Contaminated Fuel: Ensure the work area was clean. Avoid getting dirt or debris into the open tank during module replacement. Protect the tank opening when the module is out.

Why Top Access Makes Sense for the Contour

Ford's design choice to place the fuel pump access under the rear seat significantly simplifies replacement compared to many cars requiring the arduous and hazardous process of supporting and lowering the entire fuel tank. This approach saves considerable time and effort, leverages a protected location reducing corrosion exposure, minimizes the risk of damaging tank straps or lines, and makes diagnosis easier if revisiting the pump becomes necessary. Understanding this location and procedure empowers 1999 Contour owners to tackle this crucial repair efficiently.

Key Takeaways and Final Considerations

Recapping the essential point: The 1999 Ford Contour fuel pump resides inside the fuel tank, reached by removing the rear seat cushion and a large plastic access panel in the floor. Success hinges on low fuel level (ideally under 1/4 tank), safely depressurizing the fuel system, carefully disconnecting fuel lines with the proper tool, overcoming the locking ring challenge, and meticulous reassembly with the new O-ring lubricated only with compatible lubricant. If you lack mechanical confidence, proper tools, or safety equipment like a fire extinguisher, entrust this task to a qualified professional mechanic. Fuel system work requires respect for the dangers of gasoline and electricity. However, equipped with this detailed guide and sufficient preparation, replacing the fuel pump in your 1999 Ford Contour using the convenient top access point is an achievable and rewarding DIY repair. Confirm symptoms accurately before replacement, prioritize safety at every step, and enjoy restored reliability.