1999 Ford Escort Fuel Pump Relay Location: Find It Fast & Fix No-Start Issues

The fuel pump relay for your 1999 Ford Escort is located inside the underhood fuse and relay box, typically positioned near the battery on the driver's side fender wall. It is usually one of several similarly sized relays in that box, often identified by its position or a label on the fuse box lid.

When your 1999 Ford Escort cranks but refuses to start, a faulty fuel pump relay is a prime suspect. This small, inexpensive component acts as a crucial switch, controlling power to the fuel pump. Knowing exactly where to find it is the first step in diagnosing and resolving this common problem. This guide provides clear, step-by-step instructions to locate, identify, test, and replace the fuel pump relay in your 1999 Escort, helping you get back on the road quickly and safely.

Understanding the Fuel Pump Relay's Role

Before diving into the location, it's helpful to understand what the relay does and why it's so important. Your Escort's fuel pump requires a significant amount of electrical current to operate. Running this high current directly through the ignition switch or the fuel pump switch circuit would overload those components, causing damage and potential fire hazards. The fuel pump relay solves this problem.

It acts as an electrically operated switch. A small current from the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) – sent when you turn the ignition key to the "Run" or "Start" position – energizes an electromagnet inside the relay. This magnet pulls internal contacts together, closing a separate, high-current circuit that delivers power directly from the battery (via a fuse) to the fuel pump. When you turn the key off, the PCM stops sending the signal, the electromagnet de-energizes, the contacts spring apart, and power to the fuel pump is cut. If this relay fails, the high-current circuit never closes, and the fuel pump doesn't run, leading to a no-start condition.

Precautions Before You Begin

Safety is paramount when working on your vehicle's electrical system. Take these essential precautions:

  1. Disconnect the Battery: Always disconnect the negative (-) battery cable before working on any electrical components. This prevents accidental short circuits, sparks, and potential injury. Secure the cable away from the battery terminal.
  2. Work in a Safe Environment: Ensure the vehicle is parked on a level surface with the parking brake firmly engaged. Work in a well-lit and ventilated area.
  3. Handle Relays Carefully: Relays are delicate electronic components. Avoid dropping them or applying excessive force when removing or installing.
  4. Identify Correctly: Misidentifying the relay can lead to testing or replacing the wrong component, wasting time and money. Double-check using the methods described below.
  5. Depressurize Fuel System (Optional but Recommended): While not strictly necessary for just relay access, if you suspect a fuel pump issue and might be working on fuel lines later, it's wise to relieve fuel pressure. Locate the fuel pump inertia switch (often in the passenger footwell or trunk area on Escorts), press the reset button to disable the pump, then start the engine and let it stall. Crank it for a few more seconds to ensure pressure is bled down. Remember to reset the inertia switch afterwards. Alternatively, you can remove the fuel pump fuse or relay and crank the engine until it stalls.

Locating the Underhood Fuse and Relay Box

The central hub for most of your Escort's electrical fuses and relays is located under the hood. Here's how to find it:

  1. Open the Hood: Release the hood latch inside the car (usually a lever under the dashboard near the driver's door) and secure the hood with the prop rod.
  2. Locate the Battery: Identify the car's battery. It's typically a black rectangular box with two cables attached (red positive, black negative).
  3. Find the Fuse Box: Look directly next to the battery, towards the front of the car and the driver's side fender. You should see a rectangular black plastic box. This is the Power Distribution Box (PDB), also commonly called the underhood fuse box or main fuse box.
  4. Access the Box: The box will have a lid. This lid usually clips on. Look for tabs or latches on the sides. Squeeze or lift these tabs and carefully remove the lid. Set the lid aside in a safe place where it won't get damaged or lost. Keep it upright if it has diagrams printed on the underside.

Identifying the Fuel Pump Relay Inside the Box

With the lid off, you'll see an array of fuses (smaller, often colored plastic components with metal strips visible on top) and relays (larger, typically cube-shaped black plastic components). Relays plug into sockets within the box. Identifying the exact relay among several similar-looking ones is crucial.

Here are the primary methods to identify the 1999 Ford Escort fuel pump relay:

  1. Fuse Box Lid Diagram: This is the most reliable and easiest method. Carefully inspect the underside of the fuse box lid you just removed. There should be a detailed diagram or chart molded into the plastic or printed on a label. This diagram maps out the location and function of every fuse and relay within the box.

    • Look for labels like "Fuel Pump," "FP," "Fuel Pump Relay," "PCM Relay" (sometimes combined), or simply "Relay" with a number corresponding to a position on the diagram.
    • Match the diagram's layout to the actual fuse box layout. Find the relay position indicated for the fuel pump.
    • Note that diagrams can fade or become dirty over time. Clean the lid and use a flashlight if needed.

  2. Relay Position: If the diagram is missing or illegible, you can rely on common placement within Ford vehicles of that era. In the 1999 Escort's underhood PDB:

    • The fuel pump relay is often located in one of the corners or along one of the sides of the relay section.
    • It is frequently positioned near other key relays like the PCM (Powertrain Control Module) relay or the main relay.
    • Count the relays: There are usually 4-7 relay positions. The fuel pump relay is typically one of the standard-sized cube relays, not a micro relay or a large fuse.

  3. Relay Labeling (Less Common): Occasionally, the relay itself might have a small label or marking indicating its function (e.g., "Fuel Pump" or "FP"). However, don't rely solely on this, as labels can wear off or be incorrect if a relay was replaced previously. Focus on the lid diagram first.

  4. Consult Your Owner's Manual: Your vehicle's owner's manual should have a section dedicated to fuses and relays, potentially including a diagram or description of the underhood box layout. Locate this section for confirmation.

Common Appearance: The fuel pump relay in a 1999 Escort is typically a standard ISO mini or micro cube relay. It's a small, black plastic cube, roughly 1 inch x 1 inch x 1 inch (25mm x 25mm x 25mm), with four or five metal blade terminals protruding from the bottom. It plugs firmly into a socket within the fuse box.

Testing the Fuel Pump Relay (Simple Methods)

Once you've located the relay you believe is the fuel pump relay, it's wise to test it before assuming it's bad and replacing it. Here are two simple methods:

Method 1: The Swap Test (Easiest & Often Effective)

This method relies on finding another identical relay in the fuse box that controls a non-critical system (one that won't prevent the car from starting or cause damage if temporarily missing).

  1. Identify a Candidate Relay: Look for another relay in the box that looks exactly the same size and shape as the suspected fuel pump relay. Common candidates include the horn relay, A/C compressor clutch relay, or blower motor relay (check your diagram!).
  2. Swap Them: Carefully pull out the suspected faulty fuel pump relay and the identical, known-good relay from its socket. Plug the known-good relay into the fuel pump relay socket. Plug the suspected faulty relay into the socket where the known-good relay came from.
  3. Test Operation: Reconnect the battery negative cable. Turn the ignition key to the "Run" position (do not start the engine). You should hear the fuel pump prime for about 1-2 seconds – a distinct humming or buzzing sound coming from the rear of the car (near the fuel tank). If you now hear the pump prime, it strongly suggests the original relay in that socket was faulty. Also, test the function of the system controlled by the socket you moved the old relay to (e.g., honk the horn). If that system now doesn't work, it confirms the original relay is bad.
  4. Interpret Results:
    • Fuel Pump Runs with Swapped Relay: Original fuel pump relay is likely faulty.
    • Fuel Pump Still Doesn't Run: The problem could be elsewhere (fuse, pump, wiring, inertia switch, PCM). The relay you swapped might also be bad, but less likely if it worked in its original position before the swap.
    • Swapped System Doesn't Work: Confirms the original relay is faulty.

Method 2: Listening/Feeling Test

  1. Locate Relay: Ensure you have identified the correct relay socket.
  2. Have Helper Assist: You need someone to turn the ignition key while you focus on the relay.
  3. Feel and Listen: With the battery connected, have your helper turn the ignition key to the "Run" position (not start). Place your fingers gently on the relay. You should feel and hear a distinct, solid "click" coming from inside the relay as it energizes. This click indicates the internal electromagnet is pulling the contacts closed.
  4. Interpret Results:
    • You feel/hear a clear click: This suggests the relay is receiving the signal from the PCM and its coil is activating. It doesn't guarantee the high-current contacts are working, but it's a good sign. Proceed to the swap test or electrical test for confirmation.
    • You feel/hear NO click: This indicates the relay coil is not activating. This could be due to:
      • A faulty relay (coil burned out or open circuit).
      • No power getting to the relay (blown fuse, wiring issue).
      • No ground for the relay coil (wiring issue).
      • No signal from the PCM (PCM issue, faulty ignition switch, problem with related circuits like the inertia switch).

Testing the Fuel Pump Relay (Electrical Test - More Advanced)

For a more definitive test, especially if the swap test is inconclusive, you can use a multimeter. This requires basic electrical knowledge and a digital multimeter (DMM).

  1. Identify Relay Terminals: Standard automotive relays typically have 4 or 5 terminals. Common terminal designations are:
    • 85 & 86: These are the terminals for the relay's coil (the electromagnet). Applying power (typically 12V) across these two terminals should cause the relay to click.
    • 30: This is the common terminal for the switched high-current circuit. It usually connects directly to battery power (via a fuse).
    • 87: This is the normally open (NO) terminal. When the relay coil is energized (clicked), terminal 30 connects to terminal 87, completing the high-current circuit (e.g., sending power to the fuel pump).
    • 87a (if present): This is the normally closed (NC) terminal. When the relay coil is de-energized, terminal 30 connects to terminal 87a. When energized, this connection breaks. Fuel pump relays usually only use 30 and 87 (NO).
  2. Set Up Multimeter: Set your DMM to measure resistance (Ohms, Ω).
  3. Test Coil Resistance:
    • Place the DMM probes on terminals 85 and 86.
    • You should read a resistance value. This value varies by relay but is typically between 50 and 150 Ohms. A reading within this range generally indicates the coil is intact.
    • A reading of "OL" (Over Limit) or infinite resistance means the coil is open circuit and the relay is faulty.
    • A reading of 0 Ohms or very low resistance means the coil is shorted and the relay is faulty.
  4. Test Normally Open (NO) Contacts (30 to 87):
    • Place one DMM probe on terminal 30 and the other on terminal 87.
    • With the relay de-energized (not clicked), you should read "OL" or infinite resistance (open circuit).
    • Now, manually energize the relay coil. You can do this by applying 12V directly to terminals 85 (+12V) and 86 (Ground). Use fused jumper wires or a small 12V battery for safety. When the relay clicks, the resistance between 30 and 87 should drop to nearly 0 Ohms (closed circuit, continuity).
    • If the contacts don't close (still read OL when energized), or if they don't open (still show continuity when de-energized), the relay contacts are faulty.
  5. Test for Shorts to Other Terminals: Briefly check for continuity between terminals that should not be connected (e.g., between 85/86 and 30/87 when de-energized). There should be no continuity (OL).

Removing the Faulty Relay

Once you've confirmed the relay is faulty:

  1. Disconnect Battery: Reconfirm the negative battery cable is disconnected.
  2. Grip Firmly: The relay plugs snugly into its socket. Grip it firmly by its plastic body. Avoid pulling on the wires or terminals.
  3. Pull Straight Up: Apply steady, even pressure straight upwards. It should release from the socket. Rocking it gently side-to-side slightly can sometimes help if it's stuck, but avoid excessive force.
  4. Inspect Socket: Take a quick look at the relay socket terminals. Ensure they look clean, straight, and free of corrosion or damage. Light corrosion can be cleaned carefully with electrical contact cleaner and a small brush.

Purchasing a Replacement Relay

  1. Match the Original: The best practice is to take the old relay with you to the parts store. This ensures you get an exact match in terms of terminal configuration, amperage rating, and physical size.
  2. Use Vehicle Information: Provide the store clerk with your vehicle's year, make, model, and engine size (e.g., 1999 Ford Escort, 2.0L). They can cross-reference the correct relay.
  3. OEM vs. Aftermarket: You can purchase a genuine Ford relay (OEM) from a dealership, or a quality aftermarket relay (e.g., Bosch, Standard Motor Products) from an auto parts store. Aftermarket relays are usually significantly cheaper and function identically.
  4. Check Specifications: Ensure the replacement relay has the same terminal layout (pinout) and current rating as the original. This information is often printed on the relay's plastic casing.

Installing the New Relay

  1. Orient Correctly: Look at the relay socket and the bottom of the new relay. The terminals and the relay body usually have a specific orientation (e.g., a tab or notch). Align the relay so its terminals match the socket layout.
  2. Press Firmly: Position the relay directly over the socket and press down firmly and evenly until it seats completely. You should feel or hear it click into place. Ensure it's seated flush and securely.
  3. Reconnect Battery: Reconnect the negative battery cable.
  4. Test Operation: Turn the ignition key to the "Run" position. You should hear the fuel pump prime for 1-2 seconds. If you hear this, the relay is functioning correctly. Attempt to start the engine.

What If the Fuel Pump Still Doesn't Run?

If you've replaced the relay and the fuel pump still doesn't prime (no buzzing sound), the problem lies elsewhere in the fuel pump circuit. Here are the next steps in your diagnosis:

  1. Check the Fuel Pump Fuse: Locate the fuse that protects the fuel pump circuit. This fuse is also located in the underhood Power Distribution Box (PDB). Consult the fuse box lid diagram to find it. Common labels include "Fuel Pump," "FP," "PCM," or "ECM." Pull the fuse and inspect the metal strip inside. If it's broken or melted, the fuse is blown. Replace it with a fuse of the exact same amperage rating. A blown fuse indicates a potential short circuit downstream (like a failing pump or damaged wiring), so investigate further if the new fuse blows immediately.
  2. Check the Inertia Switch: Ford vehicles have an inertia safety switch that cuts power to the fuel pump in the event of a collision. Sometimes this switch can trip due to a hard bump or even a faulty connection. Locate the inertia switch for your 1999 Escort. It's commonly found:
    • On the passenger side, behind the kick panel (near where the front passenger's feet rest).
    • In the trunk area, possibly behind the trunk liner on the driver's side or passenger side wall.
    • Under the rear seat cushion.
      Find the switch (it's usually a small red or black button on a plastic housing). Press the reset button firmly. You should hear or feel it click. Try starting the car again. If the switch was tripped, this should restore power. If it trips again immediately, there's likely a wiring short.
  3. Listen at the Fuel Tank: Have a helper turn the ignition to "Run" while you listen carefully near the fuel tank filler neck or underneath the car near the tank. Sometimes the pump is very quiet. Use a mechanic's stethoscope or a long screwdriver placed on the tank with your ear on the handle to amplify the sound.
  4. Test for Power at the Pump: This is a more advanced step requiring circuit knowledge. You need to access the electrical connector at the fuel pump (usually on top of the fuel tank, requiring tank access or removal of an access panel if equipped). With the ignition in "Run," use a multimeter or test light to check for 12V at the pump's power wire (often a black wire with a pink stripe or similar – consult a wiring diagram). Caution: Fuel vapors are extremely flammable. Take extreme precautions if accessing the pump connector near the tank.
    • No Power: If there's no power at the pump connector with the key "On," the problem is between the relay and the pump (wiring issue, bad inertia switch connection, blown fuse).
    • Power Present: If power is reaching the pump connector but the pump doesn't run, the pump itself is likely faulty and needs replacement.
  5. Consider the PCM: While less common, a fault in the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) could prevent it from sending the signal to energize the fuel pump relay. Diagnosing this usually requires professional scan tools and expertise.

Conclusion

Locating the fuel pump relay in your 1999 Ford Escort is straightforward once you know it resides in the underhood fuse and relay box near the battery. Always start by consulting the diagram on the underside of the fuse box lid for precise identification. Remember to disconnect the battery before handling relays. Testing the relay using the simple swap method with an identical relay (like the horn relay) is often the quickest way to confirm a failure. Replacing a faulty relay is inexpensive and simple, resolving many no-start issues caused by a silent fuel pump. However, if replacing the relay doesn't solve the problem, systematically check the fuel pump fuse, reset the inertia switch, and listen for pump operation before moving on to more complex diagnostics involving wiring or the pump itself. Understanding this key component's location and function empowers you to tackle a common Escort starting problem confidently.

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