1999 Ford F150 Fuel Pump Fuse Location: Your Quick & Complete Guide

The fuel pump fuse for your 1999 Ford F150 is located in the fuse panel on the left side of your dashboard. Specifically, look for the fuse labeled number 18. This fuse is a 20 Amp mini fuse, crucial for supplying power to the fuel pump.

A non-working fuel pump is one of the most common reasons a 1999 F150 won't start. If you turn the key and hear only silence (no brief humming sound from the rear fuel tank area), or the engine cranks but doesn't fire, a blown fuel pump fuse is a prime suspect. Knowing its exact location is your first diagnostic step. Don't worry, accessing it is straightforward.

Tools You Likely Already Have (And One You Might Need)

This job requires minimal tools:

  1. Your Hands: Mainly for pulling off trim panels.
  2. Flashlight/Work Light: Essential for seeing inside the panel.
  3. (Possibly) Trim Panel Removal Tool or Flathead Screwdriver: Needed if dash trim is clipped tightly. Use extreme care to avoid marring the plastic.
  4. (Optional but Recommended) Fuse Puller: Often included in the fuse panel cover or spare fuse box. Tweezers or small pliers work if careful.

Finding the Interior Fuse Panel: Step-by-Step

The fuel pump fuse resides in the interior fuse box, not the one under the hood. Here's how to find it:

  1. Sit in the Driver's Seat:
  2. Look Left & Down: Direct your attention to the lower left corner of the dashboard. It's near where your left knee rests against the dash when driving.
  3. Identify the Panel Door: You'll see a rectangular or trapezoidal plastic panel facing you, often roughly the size of a paperback book. Some models have a simple lip to pull it, while others might have a small depression. Your goal is to remove this entire cover.
  4. Carefully Pry or Pull the Cover: If it has a simple lip or finger pull, grasp it firmly and pull straight out. If it feels clipped in, locate a shallow seam where the panel meets the dash. Insert your trim tool or flathead screwdriver (wrapped in tape to prevent scratching) gently and pry the panel cover outwards. Start at one corner and work your way around. It should pop off. Set the cover aside.

Identifying Fuse #18 (Fuel Pump Fuse)

With the fuse panel cover removed, you'll see rows of fuses, spare fuses, and likely a fuse puller tool. Now comes the critical part:

  1. Locate the Fuse Diagram: This is your roadmap. It's usually printed on the inside of the panel cover you just removed. Alternatively, it might be directly on the fuse box panel itself or included on a paper chart in your owner's manual.
  2. Find Fuse Position #18: Consult the diagram meticulously. Look specifically for the fuse labeled "18". Its function should be clearly marked as "Fuel Pump" or possibly abbreviated (like "F/P" or "FP"). In the 1999 F150, this designation is standard.
  3. Visual Confirmation: Look at the fuse panel itself. Find the exact slot numbered "18". A quick visual scan is often sufficient. Fuse slots are typically labeled clearly. Identify fuse #18.

Checking and Replacing Fuse #18

Now that you've positively identified fuse #18:

  1. Remove Fuse #18: Use the fuse puller tool. Insert it over the top of the fuse and gently squeeze to grip the fuse, then pull straight out. If using tweezers or needle-nose pliers, grip the fuse very carefully by its plastic ends ONLY, not the metal blades.
  2. Inspect the Fuse: Hold the fuse up to a strong light source. Look closely at the thin metal strip inside the clear plastic body.
    • Good Fuse: The metal strip is a single, intact line connecting the two metal blades.
    • Blown Fuse: The metal strip is visibly broken or melted, forming a gap. This is the sign of failure.
  3. Replace a Blown Fuse:
    • Crucially, you MUST replace a blown fuse with one of the EXACT same amperage rating. For the 1999 F150 fuel pump, this is 20 Amps. Using a higher amperage fuse (e.g., 25A or 30A) is dangerous and could cause wiring damage or fire.
    • Spare fuses of the correct size are often stored right inside the fuse panel.
    • Ensure the replacement fuse is a Mini Low Profile (ATM) fuse and rated 20A.
    • Insert the new fuse firmly but gently into slot #18, aligning it correctly. Push it all the way down until seated fully.

What to Do If the Fuel Pump Fuse is Blown or Missing

Finding fuse #18 missing or blown is a significant clue but not the final answer. Here's how to proceed:

  1. Replace the Blown/Missing Fuse: Install a known-good 20A Mini ATM fuse as described above.
  2. Check for Immediate Re-blowing (CRITICAL): Before assuming the problem is fixed, try to start the engine.
    • Engine Starts/Runs: Problem potentially solved! Monitor the fuse.
    • New Fuse Blows Immediately: STOP. Do not install another fuse. This indicates a serious short circuit or overload in the fuel pump circuit. Attempting further starts risks damage. The problem lies elsewhere.
  3. Addressing an Immediate Blow: An immediate blow signifies deeper trouble:
    • Underlying Short Circuit: Wiring supplying power to the fuel pump or the pump itself could be compromised – wires frayed, pinched, melted, or grounding out against metal.
    • Faulty Fuel Pump: The pump motor itself could be internally shorted, drawing excessive current.
    • Professional Diagnosis Required: Diagnosing an electrical short requires specialized tools (multimeter, wiring diagrams) and expertise. Persistent fuse blowing means it's time to consult a qualified mechanic. They can systematically trace the circuit to find the short.

What If the Fuel Pump Fuse Looks Fine?

If fuse #18 looks intact:

  1. Double-Check: Re-inspect it visually or test with a multimeter set to Continuity. A seemingly good fuse can sometimes have a hidden crack. Replace it with a known-good 20A fuse regardless – it's cheap and eliminates one variable.
  2. Check the Fuel Pump Relay: Power to the fuse flows through a relay first. This relay controls high current. It's usually nearby in the same fuse panel or an adjacent "Power Distribution Box." Listen or feel for a click as a helper turns the key to RUN (don't crank). Swap the fuel pump relay with a known identical relay (like the horn relay – check the diagram!) to see if the problem moves.
  3. Investigate Inertia Switch: An impact switch designed to cut fuel in a collision. Located typically in the passenger footwell (front kick panel, behind carpet trim). Ensure its button isn't popped out. Press the reset button firmly.
  4. Test Fuel Pump Power: Accessing the electrical connector at the fuel pump or the inertia switch and using a multimeter requires skill.
  5. Suspect Fuel Pump Failure: If power is definitively reaching the pump connector when the key is in RUN, the pump motor itself is the prime suspect. Listen closely for its hum.

Understanding the Fuel Pump Circuit Basics

Knowing the flow helps diagnose:

  1. Battery: Supplies initial power.
  2. Ignition Switch: Activated with the key.
  3. Powertrain Control Module (PCM): The truck's computer. After a brief power-on test, it activates the fuel pump relay circuit.
  4. Fuel Pump Relay: Receives signal from PCM. Acts as a heavy-duty switch to send high current.
  5. Fuse #18: Protects the wiring from excessive current caused by a short or pump failure downstream.
  6. Inertia Switch: Safety device cutting power upon impact. Must be reset.
  7. Fuel Pump: Receives power through inertia switch (if equipped) and operates. A ground path completes the circuit.

Important Safety Precautions

  • Disconnect Battery Negative: Crucial before any electrical work beyond checking fuses, especially near airbags.
  • Fire Hazard: Fuel vapors are highly flammable. Disconnect battery and work in well-ventilated areas. Keep sparks/flames away. Have a fire extinguisher ready.
  • Fuse Ratings Matter: Never substitute a higher amp fuse. It risks fire.

Beyond the Fuse: Other Fuel Pump Checkpoints

While the fuse is a common starting point, other issues can cause similar symptoms:

  • Bad Fuel Pump: The pump motor can fail mechanically or electrically.
  • Corroded or Loose Wiring/Pins: Especially at connectors (fuel pump, inertia switch, relay).
  • Weak Pump Ground: A poor ground connection prevents the circuit from completing.
  • Failed Fuel Pump Relay: Internal contacts burned or stuck.
  • Faulty Inertia Switch: Malfunction beyond needing a reset.
  • Ignition Switch Problems: Not supplying power downstream.
  • Fuel Pickup/Filter Issues: Severe clogs limiting flow (won't usually blow the fuse).

Q&A: Common Questions About the 1999 F150 Fuel Pump

  • Q: What does the fuel pump fuse look like?

    • A: A blue 20 Amp mini low-profile (ATM) fuse in position #18. Blue denotes 20A rating.
  • Q: If the fuse is good, is there another fuse for the fuel pump?

    • A: The primary fuse is #18 in the interior panel. Check the Fuel Pump Relay itself (often in the interior or underhood power distribution box). Sometimes an additional large fuse feeds the relay in the underhood box. Consult your specific diagram.
  • Q: Where is the fuel pump relay?

    • A: In the 1999 F150, it's usually located inside the cabin fuse panel alongside the fuses. Check the panel cover or manual diagram for its position number. Less commonly, it might be in the main underhood Power Distribution Box.
  • Q: Can I test the fuel pump by bypassing the fuse?

    • A: NO! This is exceptionally dangerous. Bypassing protection creates a serious fire and electrocution hazard. Never power the pump directly.
  • Q: How much does a new fuel pump cost?

    • A: Parts range significantly (400+ depending on brand/materials). Labor is intensive (requiring dropping the fuel tank) and can be several hundred dollars. Total cost often exceeds $500.
  • Q: Are fuel pump issues common in the 1999 F150?

    • A: Fuel pump failure is a common age-related issue due to wear and heat cycles after 20+ years. Fuse failure is usually linked to another problem causing overload.

Conclusion: Your Quick Reference

When your 1999 Ford F150 won't start due to fuel delivery issues, check fuse #18 inside the driver's side interior fuse panel first. It's a blue 20A Mini ATM fuse. Replace it if blown with the exact same 20A rating. If it blows again immediately, do not continue, as this signals a serious wiring or pump short requiring professional diagnosis. If the fuse is good, proceed to checking the fuel pump relay, inertia switch, and other components. Always prioritize safety by disconnecting the battery for more involved checks and being aware of fuel system hazards. Knowing this key fuse location empowers you to tackle the first, most common step in diagnosing a silent fuel pump.