1999 Ford Ranger Fuel Pump Relay Location Explained Simply

For a 1999 Ford Ranger, the fuel pump relay is located inside the under-hood Power Distribution Box (PDB). It is typically found in position #2 or #3 within that box. Its exact position depends on the specific Ranger model configuration and engine.

If your 1999 Ford Ranger cranks but stubbornly refuses to start, a silent fuel pump is often the prime suspect. While a failed fuel pump itself is a possibility, the much simpler and more accessible culprit frequently hiding behind this frustrating "no-start" scenario is a faulty fuel pump relay. Knowing exactly where to find this critical relay in your 1999 Ranger is your first step towards diagnosing and solving the problem. Located under the hood within the Power Distribution Box, specifically in slot #2 or #3 depending on your truck's exact setup, this small but vital component controls the electrical power flow to the fuel pump. We'll guide you through pinpointing it, testing it effectively, and replacing it if necessary.

Finding the Power Distribution Box (PDB)

  1. Go Under the Hood: Pop the hood of your Ranger and secure it safely with the prop rod.
  2. Locate the Driver's Side Front Corner: Look towards the back of the engine compartment, on the driver's side, right against the firewall (the wall separating the engine from the passenger compartment). You might need to look past some wiring or components towards the rear.
  3. Identify the Black Plastic Box: The Power Distribution Box (PDB) is a rectangular black plastic box with a removable lid. It houses not only the fuel pump relay but also several other crucial fuses and relays vital for your Ranger's operation. This box is distinct from the smaller fuse panels you might find inside the cabin.

Identifying and Accessing the Fuel Pump Relay Within the PDB

  1. Open the PDB Lid: Carefully lift the lid of the Power Distribution Box. It usually unclips around its edges. Set the lid aside safely.
  2. Locate the Relay Sockets: Inside the box, you'll see multiple relay sockets and fuse holders. The relays are cube-shaped or slightly rectangular components that plug into these sockets. They are larger than the small blade fuses also present in the box.
  3. Find Positions #2 and #3: Your primary search areas are the relay sockets labeled #2 and #3. These positions are clearly stamped or printed on the plastic base of the PDB adjacent to each relay socket. Sometimes there's a diagram printed directly onto the underside of the lid showing the layout and labeling – this is an excellent resource.
  4. Look for the Relay Label: Crucially, one of these positions (#2 or #3) will specifically be labeled with a description indicating it controls the fuel pump. Look for markings like:
    • FUEL PUMP
    • FP
    • FUEL PUMP RELAY
    • EEC/FUEL PUMP (This refers to the Electronic Engine Control relay which, in earlier Rangers, often controlled both modules and the pump. In 1999, it's more common to have a dedicated FP relay in slot #2, and the EEC in slot #3 or elsewhere. Check the labels!)
  5. Identify the Relay Physically: The standard Ford relay used in this era, including the Ranger, is often black or gray and has a standard Bosch-style design. It has 4 or 5 blade terminals on its base that plug into the socket. Do Not rely solely on color. Always verify it by the position label inside the PDB.
  6. Common Confusion (Key Points):
    • #1 is often the Starter Relay: Position #1 in the PDB is almost universally the starter relay. This is NOT the fuel pump relay.
    • #2 or #3 is the Fuel Pump Relay: Position #2 is a common location, especially for dedicated FP relays. Position #3 (often labeled "EEC") is another frequent location, particularly if the relay also handles the EEC function. You must read the label inside your specific PDB. For many 1999 Rangers, #2 is Fuel Pump, and #3 is EEC, but labeling is definitive.
    • DO NOT confuse it with fuse positions: The fuel pump fuse is also located in the PDB but is a distinct component. The relays are larger than the typical blade fuses.

Why a Faulty Fuel Pump Relay Causes Problems

The relay acts as an electronically controlled switch. When you turn the ignition key to the "ON" position (even before cranking), the Ranger's Powertrain Control Module (PCM) briefly energizes the fuel pump relay. This sends power to the fuel pump for 2-3 seconds to prime the fuel system and build pressure. When you crank the engine, the PCM keeps the relay energized, providing continuous power to the pump to keep fuel flowing during operation.

If the relay fails:

  • It gets stuck in the OPEN position: No power reaches the fuel pump at all. The pump won't run during prime or cranking. Result: Cranks, no start.
  • It gets stuck in the CLOSED position: Power flows to the fuel pump continuously, even when the ignition is off. This drains the battery and risks damaging the pump. Result: Possible no start or battery drain.
  • It becomes intermittent: Power cuts in and out unpredictably. Result: Engine stalling, rough running, or hard/no starting.

Symptoms Pointing to a Bad Fuel Pump Relay in Your 1999 Ranger

Suspect the fuel pump relay if you experience any of these issues:

  • Engine Cranks But Won't Start: This is the most common symptom. The starter motor spins the engine, but there's no sign of the fuel pump running.
  • Silent Fuel Pump: When you turn the ignition to "ON" (without cranking), you should hear a distinct buzzing or humming sound from the rear (where the fuel tank/pump is) for about 2-3 seconds as it primes the system. If you hear nothing, the relay (or fuse, or pump) is suspect.
  • Engine Dies While Driving: An intermittent relay failure can cause the engine to suddenly cut out, as if you turned off the ignition, while driving. It might restart immediately, after a few minutes, or require replacing the relay.
  • Engine Stalls When Hot: Relays can become heat-sensitive. As engine bay temperatures rise during operation or after shutdown, a failing relay might cut out.
  • Battery Drains Overnight: If the relay is stuck closed, the fuel pump will run constantly, draining the battery even when the ignition is off.

Before Blaming the Relay: Important Checks

Don't jump straight to replacing the relay without verifying a couple of simpler things first:

  1. Check the Fuel Pump Fuse: Inside the same Power Distribution Box (PDB) under the hood, find the fuse specifically for the fuel pump. This is usually labeled "FUEL PUMP" or "FP" in the fuse section. Use the diagram on the PDB lid to find it. Pull it out (a fuse puller tool is helpful) and inspect the thin metal strip inside. If it's broken or looks burnt, replace the fuse with one of the exact same amperage rating. A blown fuse will cause identical symptoms to a bad relay.
  2. Listen for the Fuel Pump: Have a helper turn the ignition key to the "ON" position while you stand near the rear of the truck, close to the fuel tank. You should clearly hear the pump motor run for a couple of seconds. No sound? That points towards a problem in the electrical supply to the pump (relay, fuse, wiring) or the pump itself.

How to Test the 1999 Ranger Fuel Pump Relay (Safely and Effectively)

Testing the relay is straightforward without complex tools:

Swap Test (Easiest Method)

  1. Locate the fuel pump relay in the PDB (#2 or #3 as described above).
  2. Locate another relay of the exact same type in the same PDB. The horn relay, air conditioning relay, or even the EEC relay are often identical.
  3. Ensure the ignition is OFF.
  4. Carefully pull both relays straight out of their sockets. Compare them – they should have the same physical shape, terminal arrangement, and part numbers printed on top.
  5. Swap the suspect fuel pump relay with the known good relay from another circuit.
  6. Turn the ignition key to "ON" and listen for the fuel pump priming hum.
  7. Attempt to start the engine.
  • If the fuel pump now runs/engine starts: The original relay in the fuel pump position was faulty. Replace it.
  • If the pump still doesn't run/engine doesn't start: The relay might be okay, OR the known "good" relay you borrowed is actually faulty. Test further. OR the problem lies elsewhere (fuse, wiring, pump, PCM command).

Multimeter Test (More Definitive)

For this, you'll need a digital multimeter.

  1. Identify the Relay Terminals: Look at the numbers molded into the relay case near the blade pins:
    • 85: Coil Ground (Control Side)
    • 86: Coil Power (Control Side - Comes from PCM)
    • 30: Power Feed (Battery Positive - Hot at all times)
    • 87: Power Output (To Fuel Pump - Switched side)
      (Some relays might have an additional terminal 87a for Normally Closed circuits; unlikely for a standard pump relay).
  2. Resistance Test (Coil Circuit):
    1. Set multimeter to Ohms (Ω) setting.
    2. Place probes on terminals 85 and 86.
    3. You should read a resistance value, typically between 50-120 Ohms. A reading of "OL" (Open Loop) or infinity means the internal coil is broken - relay is bad. A reading of 0 Ohms indicates a shorted coil - relay is bad.
  3. Continuity Test (Switch Circuit - Relay Removed):
    1. Set multimeter to Continuity or Diode Test setting (usually beeps).
    2. Place probes on terminals 30 and 87.
    3. There should be NO continuity (no beep) when the relay is not energized. If there is continuity, the switch is stuck closed - relay is bad.
  4. Activation Test (Requires Power):
    1. IMPORTANT SAFETY: Be extremely careful. Only perform this if you understand basic automotive electrical concepts.
    2. Identify terminals 85 and 86 (Coil). Apply negative (-) probe of multimeter to terminal 85.
    3. Positive (+) probe goes to terminal 86. You need a fused jumper wire: Connect one end to the POSITIVE (+) battery terminal.
    4. Temporarily touch the other end of the jumper wire to relay terminal 86. Do NOT hold it there permanently. You should hear/feel an audible "click" from inside the relay as the coil energizes and the switch closes.
    5. With the jumper wire briefly applied to 86, check for continuity now between 30 and 87. There should be continuity (beep). Remove the jumper wire; the continuity should stop, and you should hear the relay click again as it opens.
    6. If it doesn't click OR doesn't make contact when powered: The relay is bad.

Replacing the Fuel Pump Relay on Your 1999 Ranger

Replacement is simple:

  1. Ensure ignition is OFF.
  2. Locate the faulty relay in the PDB (#2 or #3, labeled FUEL PUMP or similar).
  3. Pull it straight out. Grasp it firmly and pull directly upwards without rocking or twisting.
  4. Insert the new relay. Ensure it is oriented exactly the same way as the old one. Look at the relay socket; one corner might be clipped. The new relay should push in smoothly with gentle pressure. If it doesn't fit easily, double-check the orientation. Forcing it will damage the socket or relay.
  5. Verify: Turn ignition to "ON" and listen for the fuel pump prime. Start the engine.

Choosing a Replacement Relay for a 1999 Ranger

  • OEM (Motorcraft): Best option for reliability. The part number is frequently F7PF-14B192-AA or similar (the last two characters can vary). Ask for a 1999 Ranger fuel pump relay. Retailers like FordPartsGiant.com can look it up by VIN.
  • Brand Name Aftermarket: Bosch, Standard Motor Products (SMP), Delphi, Denso are reputable brands. Ensure the part matches OE specifications.
  • Standard Part Number: Many relays fit multiple applications. A common Bosch number is 0 332 002 203 or 0 332 014 407. Verify compatibility.
  • Avoid Low-Cost Generic Relays: Especially those from unknown brands. Reliability is critical. A $5 relay that fails prematurely is no bargain if it strands you.

Important Considerations for 1999 Ford Ranger Fuel Pump Relay Problems

  • Sticky Relays: Sometimes a relay is intermittent, meaning it works sometimes but not others. Tapping the relay firmly with the handle of a screwdriver while a helper attempts to start the truck (or while you listen for the pump prime) is a crude field diagnosis. If it temporarily works after a tap, the relay definitely needs replacement.
  • Wiring Issues: While the relay is a common failure point, inspect the wiring harness near the relay socket for damage, chafing, or corrosion. Check connectors thoroughly.
  • PCM Command: The PCM signals the relay to activate. If the PCM isn't sending the signal (due to a bad crank/cam sensor, anti-theft issue, or PCM fault), the relay won't energize even if it's good. However, no relay activation (tested with a multimeter or a test light at terminal 86 during cranking) can help distinguish this.
  • Dirt and Corrosion: Clean the relay pins and the sockets using electrical contact cleaner and a soft brush if corrosion is present.
  • Quality Matters: Cheap relays fail faster. Invest in a quality replacement part.

Knowing precisely where the fuel pump relay resides in your 1999 Ford Ranger's Power Distribution Box (Slot #2 or #3, labeled accordingly) empowers you to tackle a frequent cause of engine no-start conditions. By understanding its function, recognizing the symptoms of its failure (primarily cranking without starting and no fuel pump prime sound), and mastering simple diagnostic techniques like the swap test or multimeter checks, you can often quickly confirm the problem. Replacing a faulty relay with a quality Motorcraft or reputable aftermarket unit is typically a quick, inexpensive fix. Regularly listening for that initial prime sound when turning the key provides an early warning system for electrical issues within the fuel pump circuit. For any Ranger owner, this knowledge is invaluable roadside troubleshooting know-how.

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