1999 Ford Taurus Fuel Pump Fuse: Location, Testing, Replacement & Why It Matters

The fuel pump fuse in your 1999 Ford Taurus is a critical 15-amp mini fuse located primarily in the interior fuse panel near the driver's side kick panel. If this fuse blows, your fuel pump will lose power, preventing the engine from starting or causing it to stall immediately. Replacing a blown fuse is a simple, inexpensive fix, but diagnosing why it blew is essential to prevent recurrence and avoid potentially costly fuel pump or wiring damage.

Understanding the role and location of the fuel pump fuse is fundamental knowledge for any 1999 Ford Taurus owner. This seemingly small component acts as the first line of defense for your car's fuel delivery system. When functioning correctly, you rarely think about it. When it fails, your car grinds to a halt. This guide provides comprehensive, actionable information on locating, testing, and replacing this vital fuse, along with essential troubleshooting to address the underlying causes of failure.

Locating the Fuse: Inside the Cabin is Key

Unlike some vehicles that house major fuses under the hood, the fuel pump fuse for the 1999 Ford Taurus is found inside the passenger compartment. The primary fuse panel you need is situated near the driver's left foot, often described as being in the "kick panel" area to the left of the steering column, below the dashboard.

1. Identify the Panel: Sit in the driver's seat. Look down and slightly leftward, near where your left foot rests when not on the pedals. You should see a rectangular plastic cover, usually held in place by small clips or sometimes screws near its edges.
2. Accessing the Panel: No special tools are typically needed for access. Firmly but gently pry the plastic cover away from the kick panel. It should pop off relatively easily. Set the cover aside safely.
3. Finding the Fuse: Once the cover is removed, you'll see an array of mini fuses (small, plastic, often colorful with two metal prongs) and possibly some larger relays. The fuse panel cover you removed should have a diagram printed on its inside surface listing each fuse's position and function. If your cover lacks this diagram or it's unreadable, refer to your owner's manual. Reputable online automotive repair databases also provide accurate fuse panel layouts.
4. Identifying the Fuel Pump Fuse: On the 1999 Taurus, the fuel pump circuit is most commonly protected by a 15-amp fuse. Crucially, this fuse might be labeled in a few different ways on diagrams:
   • "Fuel Pump" (Most direct label, if used).
   • "PCM Power" or "PCM Relay": The Powertrain Control Module (PCM, the main engine computer) often controls the fuel pump relay. Power for this circuit frequently flows through this fuse. This is a very likely label for the 1999 Taurus.
   • "FP" (Abbreviation for Fuel Pump).
   • "Injectors/Fuel Pump": Sometimes circuits share protection.
5. Visual Confirmation: Using the diagram, locate the specific fuse slot. Double-check the amperage rating (15A) usually printed on the top of the fuse itself within the slot. Common fuse colors correspond to amperage; 15A is usually light blue.

Understanding Fuse Function: Protecting the Circuit

A fuse is a deliberate weak point in an electrical circuit. Its sole purpose is to protect more expensive components and wiring harnesses from damage caused by excessive current flow, known as a short circuit or overload.

• Normal Operation: During regular operation, electrical current flows safely through the fuse's internal metal link, powering the fuel pump and its associated control circuits (like the relay).
• Fault Condition: If a problem occurs – such as a short circuit in the fuel pump wiring, a failing pump drawing too much current (excessive amperage), a damaged relay, or less commonly, a severe voltage spike – the current flowing through the circuit can suddenly surge far beyond its safe design limit (15 amps in this case).
• Fuse Action: The thin metal link inside the fuse heats up extremely rapidly due to this massive current overload. It melts and breaks (blows) within milliseconds. This action instantly opens the circuit, stopping the flow of electricity completely.
• Result: Power is cut to the fuel pump circuit. The fuel pump stops working. Without fuel pressure, the engine will not start or will stall immediately if running. This protects the wiring from melting or catching fire and can sometimes prevent damage to the pump motor itself (though a failing pump often causes the blow).

Symptoms of a Blown Fuel Pump Fuse

The failure of this fuse results in a complete loss of power to the fuel pump. Symptoms are usually immediate and very noticeable:

1. Engine Cranks but Won't Start: This is the most classic sign. When you turn the key to the "Start" position, the starter motor spins the engine normally (you hear the cranking sound), but the engine does not fire up or run. This happens because fuel isn't being delivered to the engine cylinders.
2. Engine Stalls Immediately After Starting: Rarely, if the fuse blows just as the engine starts, it might run for a second or two before dying completely. However, the "cranks but won't start" is far more common.
3. No Fuel Pump Prime Noise: A key diagnostic indicator. When you first turn the ignition key to the "Run" position (before cranking), you should normally hear a faint humming or buzzing sound from the rear of the car (near or in the fuel tank) for about 2-3 seconds. This is the fuel pump priming the system, building pressure. If you don't hear this priming sound upon turning the key to "Run," a blown fuse is a prime suspect.
4. Check Engine Light (CEL) MAY Be On: While not guaranteed, a blown fuse can sometimes trigger the Check Engine Light. The PCM monitors circuits and can detect unexpected voltage loss or open circuits related to fuel delivery.

Testing the Fuse: Confirming Failure is Simple

Before replacing anything, confirming the fuse is blown is critical. Don't rely solely on sight.

1. Visual Inspection:
   • Remove the fuse: Use fuse pullers (often included in the fuse box or a small plastic tool found with spare fuses) or needle-nose pliers very carefully to grip the fuse by its plastic body and pull it straight out. Avoid touching metal terminals.
   • Examine the Link: Look through the clear plastic top of the fuse at the thin metal strip inside. An intact fuse will have an unbroken strip. A blown fuse will have a visibly melted or severed strip. Sometimes discoloration or a cloudy appearance in the window also indicates failure.
2. Electrical Testing with a Multimeter (Recommended): A multimeter provides the most reliable diagnosis. Set it to measure resistance (Ohms, Ω symbol) or use the continuity test setting (which usually beeps when a connection is detected).
   • Resistance Test: Touch one multimeter probe to each metal blade (prong) on the top of the fuse. Reading OL (Open Loop) or infinite resistance means the fuse is blown. A reading near 0 Ohms indicates a good fuse.
   • Continuity Test: Touch the probes to each blade. If the multimeter beeps, continuity exists, and the fuse is good. No beep means no continuity, and the fuse is blown.
3. Circuit Tester "Pigtail": Some fuse boxes allow you to gently probe the small test ports on top of each fuse slot. With the ignition key in the "Run" position, a circuit tester (simple test light) clipped to ground should light up when touched to both sides of the fuse slot if the fuse is good. If it only lights on one side, the fuse is blown. Be cautious not to short contacts.

Replacing the Blown Fuse: The Easy Part

Once you've confirmed the 15-amp fuse is blown, replacement is straightforward:

1. Use the Correct Replacement: MUST be a 15-amp mini fuse. Using a higher amperage fuse (e.g., 20A, 25A) is extremely dangerous. The fuse is designed to blow at 15A to protect the wiring. A higher amp fuse will allow unsafe levels of current to flow, risking melted wires or even a fire before it blows. Using a lower amp fuse (e.g., 10A) will cause it to blow prematurely under normal load. Automotive fuses are inexpensive and widely available at auto parts stores, gas stations, and big-box retailers. Always use automotive-grade fuses.
2. Insert Carefully: Align the new fuse precisely with the empty slot in the panel. Push it firmly and evenly straight down until it seats fully. You should feel both metal prongs engage properly. Do not force it or bend the prongs.
3. Re-test Operation: Turn the ignition key to "Run." Listen for the fuel pump prime sound. If you hear it for a few seconds, that's a good initial sign. Now try to start the engine. If it starts and runs normally, you've fixed the immediate symptom.
4. Secure the Cover: Once the engine is running and you've confirmed normal operation, snap the fuse panel cover back into place securely.

Crucial Step: Why Did the Fuse Blow?

Simply replacing the fuse addresses only the symptom, not the underlying cause. A fuse blowing is almost always a sign of a problem elsewhere in the circuit. Putting in a new fuse without investigating the cause will almost certainly result in the new fuse blowing again, often immediately or shortly after starting the car. Here are the common culprits:

1. Short Circuit in Fuel Pump Wiring: This is the most critical issue. Over time, wiring harnesses, especially those routed near the fuel tank or under the car, can become damaged. Chafing against metal components, road debris impact, corrosion, or rodent damage can expose bare wire. If this exposed wire touches ground (the vehicle chassis or another wire), it creates a direct, low-resistance path to ground – a short circuit. This causes an enormous, instantaneous current surge that the fuse sacrifices itself to stop. This requires immediate professional diagnosis and repair. Driving with a known short circuit risk is a fire hazard.
2. Failing Fuel Pump: An aging fuel pump's electric motor can draw excessive current, especially as its bearings wear, it gets clogged, or its internal windings degrade. While the motor might still try to spin (sometimes making whining or grinding noises), it can overload the circuit beyond the 15-amp rating of the fuse, causing it to blow. A pump drawing too much current will usually eventually fail completely. If the fuse blows repeatedly and the pump is noisy or has been showing signs of weakness, the pump itself is likely the root cause.
3. Faulty Fuel Pump Relay: The relay acts as the high-current switch controlled by the PCM to turn the pump on and off. Relays have internal contacts that can weld shut, stick open, or become damaged internally. A relay that is shorted internally can cause a direct short to ground when energized or malfunction in ways that cause excessive current draw, blowing the fuse. A relay that sticks mechanically can also cause pump overload. The relay is often located in the same interior fuse panel, the engine compartment power distribution box, or elsewhere nearby (consult manual/online sources for exact location - it might be labeled F/PMP, Fuel Pump, or PCM Relay). Swapping it with an identical relay (like the horn relay) is a common diagnostic step. Note: Relay failure can cause fuse failure but isn't the most frequent cause.
4. Damaged or Corroded Fuse Box / Connector: Less common but possible. Corrosion in the fuse box terminals themselves or in the main wiring harness connectors supplying power to the fuse box can create high resistance or intermittent shorts. This resistance causes localized heat build-up or arcing, potentially leading to blown fuses. Inspect the fuse slot and wiring for signs of melting, burning, or corrosion.
5. Severe Voltage Spike (Rare): Extremely high voltage, like from a faulty alternator voltage regulator sending uncontrolled voltage into the system, can potentially overwhelm and blow fuses. However, this usually affects multiple sensitive circuits simultaneously, not just the fuel pump.

Diagnosis After Replacement: Troubleshooting the Cause

If your Taurus starts and runs fine after replacing the fuse, monitor it closely. However, to prevent future strandings and address potential hazards, proactive diagnosis is wise:

1. Noise Listen: Pay close attention for any unusual noises (whining, grinding, groaning) coming from the rear fuel tank area, especially under acceleration or when the fuel level is low. This points strongly to a failing pump.
2. Performance Issues: Watch for symptoms of fuel pump weakness before failure: engine hesitation under load (like climbing hills or accelerating), loss of power at high speeds, or stalling when the engine is hot. These suggest the pump is struggling, potentially overloading the circuit intermittently.
3. Fuse Blows Again: If the new fuse blows again, especially immediately after replacing it or shortly after starting the engine, STOP driving the car. This strongly indicates an active short circuit or a severely failing pump. This requires professional diagnosis. Here's a basic guide:
   • After Install: Blows immediately upon installing a new fuse (without turning the key)? Points to a severe direct short to ground (dead short) in the wiring upstream of the pump/relay. Could be wiring harness damage.
   • Key Turned to RUN: Blows only when turning the key to the "Run" position? Points to a short or high load in the circuit that's only powered in RUN/START. Still likely wiring or pump/short related.
   • After Starting: Blows shortly after the engine starts? Points more towards a failing component drawing excessive current when under load (pump starts working harder) or an intermittent short circuit aggravated by vibration.
4. Check for Wiring Damage: If safe and possible, visually inspect wiring harnesses running from the fuse panel, along the car's underside towards the fuel tank. Look for obvious abrasion, cuts, crushed sections, melted insulation, or signs of rodent chewing. Be extremely cautious if you suspect a short. Do not probe live circuits if inexperienced.
5. Electrical Load Testing (Professional Recommended): To differentiate between a wiring short and a failing pump drawing too much current, measuring the actual current (amperage) flowing through the circuit using a multimeter with a clamp probe is the definitive test. Checking for voltage drops along the circuit also helps pinpoint high resistance points. This level of diagnosis is best handled by a professional mechanic unless you are very experienced with automotive electrical systems. They have specialized tools and knowledge.
6. Professional Inspection: When in doubt, or if the fuse blows repeatedly, consult a qualified automotive technician. They can safely perform voltage drop tests, amperage draw tests, and pinpoint wiring faults using schematics and specialized diagnostic tools.

Prevention and Maintenance: Avoid Future Problems

While not foolproof, good practices can minimize risks:

1. Carry Spare Fuses: Keep a small kit of assorted automotive fuses, including several 15A mini fuses, in your car.
2. Wiring Harness Integrity: Ensure wiring harnesses are properly secured and routed away from heat sources, sharp edges, or moving components. Address any visible damage or rubbing immediately.
3. Avoid Water Exposure: While connectors are designed to be waterproof, severe water exposure (deep flooding, pressure washing engine bays directly) can overwhelm seals and cause corrosion or shorts over time.
4. Promptly Address Signs of Pump Failure: Don't ignore whining noises, hesitations, or power loss. Replacing a failing fuel pump proactively before it draws excessive current or seizes is far better than being stranded or having it blow fuses repeatedly. Listen for the prime sound regularly.
5. Regular Service: Keeping up with general vehicle maintenance can sometimes uncover related issues. A thorough visual inspection during oil changes or tire rotations can sometimes spot damaged wiring before it causes failure.
6. Repair Quality: If the fuel pump or wiring harness is replaced, ensure the work is done to a high standard using quality parts and connectors. Splicing wires requires proper technique (solder and heat shrink or high-quality crimps).

Conclusion: Don't Underestimate the Tiny Fuse

The 1999 Ford Taurus fuel pump fuse is a small but essential safeguard within your vehicle's critical fuel delivery system. Knowing its location, function, how to test it, and how to replace it empowers you to potentially resolve a sudden no-start situation quickly and inexpensively. However, recognizing that a blown fuse is almost certainly a symptom of a deeper issue – like a failing fuel pump, a problematic relay, or more critically, a dangerous short circuit – is vital. Always diagnose why the fuse blew after replacing it. If the problem persists or you suspect a serious electrical fault, seeking professional help is crucial to ensure your safety and the reliable operation of your Taurus. By understanding this small component's significant role, you gain valuable knowledge to keep your car running and avoid unnecessary repair costs or roadside emergencies.