1999 Honda Civic Fuel Pump Fuse: Location, Testing, and Replacement Guide

If your 1999 Honda Civic cranks but won't start, the fuel pump fuse is one of the first components you should check. A blown fuel pump fuse instantly cuts power to the fuel pump, preventing the engine from getting the gasoline it needs to run. Finding, testing, and replacing it is often a quick and inexpensive fix. Let's get straight to locating that fuse.

Where is the 1999 Honda Civic Fuel Pump Fuse Located?

You'll find the fuel pump fuse in the primary under-hood fuse box. Open your Civic's hood and locate the black, rectangular fuse box positioned near the battery on the driver's side of the engine compartment. Unclip the cover to reveal rows of fuses. The fuel pump fuse is specifically designated as Fuse #15.

Look for a fuse labeled "FI-ECU," "PGM-FI," or similar. While Honda sometimes used the "FI" label primarily for the fuel injector/ECU circuit, this same fuse also protects the fuel pump circuit in the 1999 Civic. On the underside of the fuse box cover, you should find a detailed diagram listing each fuse number, its amperage rating, and the circuits it protects. Identify Fuse #15 – it is always a 15 Amp fuse, typically colored blue.

Symptoms of a Blown 1999 Civic Fuel Pump Fuse

The main symptom is an engine that cranks normally (you hear the starter motor turning the engine) but refuses to start. There are other potential causes for this, but a blown fuel pump fuse is common. Other indicators include:

  1. Sudden Engine Stalling: The engine might cut out abruptly while driving.
  2. No Fuel Pump Prime Sound: When you turn the ignition key to the "ON" position (but not starting), listen near the rear of the car (where the fuel tank is) for a distinct humming or buzzing sound lasting 2-3 seconds. This is the fuel pump priming the system. No prime sound strongly suggests no power to the pump, possibly due to a blown fuse.
  3. Loss of Multiple Functions (Potentially): Since the FI-ECU/PGM-FI fuse also powers the engine control unit (ECU), you might also notice the check engine light not illuminating during the key-on bulb check, or the injectors not firing.

How to Test the 1999 Civic Fuel Pump Fuse

You don't need to guess if the fuse is blown; test it properly. Here’s how:

  1. Safety First: Turn the ignition OFF. Disconnect the negative (-) battery cable to prevent accidental shorts or electrical issues while working. Place it away from the battery terminal.
  2. Remove Fuse #15: Locate fuse #15 in the under-hood box. Most fuse boxes include a small plastic fuse puller tool clipped to the inside of the lid. Use this tool or a pair of needle-nose pliers to firmly grip and pull the fuse straight out of its socket.
  3. Visual Inspection: Examine the thin metal strip visible through the clear plastic body of the fuse. If the metal strip is broken, melted, or shows a visible gap, the fuse is blown.
  4. Multimeter Test (Recommended for Accuracy): Set your multimeter to the continuity setting (symbol often looks like a sound wave) or the lowest Ohms (Ω) setting. Touch one probe to each of the metal blades protruding from the plastic body of the fuse. Continuity/Good Fuse: The multimeter will beep and/or show a reading close to zero Ohms. Blown Fuse: The multimeter will not beep and will display "OL" (Over Limit) or a very high resistance reading (like 1 or 0.L).

Replacing the Blown Fuel Pump Fuse

If the fuse is blown, replacement is simple but requires attention to detail:

  1. Use the Correct Replacement: The 1999 Honda Civic fuel pump fuse must be replaced with a brand new 15 Amp ATO blade-type fuse (Mini blade fuse). Using a higher amperage fuse (like 20A or 30A) is extremely dangerous. Fuses are safety devices; a higher-rated fuse will not blow when it should, risking damage to the fuel pump, fuel pump relay, wiring harness, or even fire.
  2. Purchase Quality: Buy fuses from reputable auto parts stores or dealers. Avoid bargain packs sold at discount stores.
  3. Insert Properly: Push the new 15A fuse firmly into the slot designated for Fuse #15. Ensure it seats fully and snugly into the contacts.
  4. Reconnect Battery: Reconnect the negative battery cable and tighten the clamp securely.

What Happens Next?

After replacing a blown fuse, turn the ignition key to the "ON" position (do not start yet). Listen carefully: You should now hear the fuel pump prime for a few seconds. This is a good sign. Then try starting the engine.

  • Success: If the car starts normally, you fixed the immediate issue. However, proceed to the critical troubleshooting step below!
  • Fuse Blows Immediately: If the engine starts briefly and dies, or the fuse blows again as soon as you turn the key to "ON" or try to start it, you have a serious problem. A blown fuse is typically a symptom of an underlying electrical fault causing an overload. Do not keep replacing the fuse. This requires diagnosis.

Critical Next Step: Why Did the Fuse Blow?

A fuse rarely blows without cause. Replacing it is a band-aid unless you address the underlying issue causing the overload. Common causes for the 1999 Civic's fuel pump fuse to blow repeatedly include:

  1. Failed Fuel Pump: This is the most common root cause. A fuel pump nearing the end of its life or one that has failed internally can draw excessive current (amperage), overloading and blowing the fuse. The average lifespan of an original fuel pump can be around 10-15 years or 150,000+ miles – a 1999 Civic is past that age. The fuse blowing protects the wiring from a failing pump drawing too much current.
  2. Damaged Fuel Pump Wiring: Wiring harnesses near the fuel tank (under the car) or at the fuel pump connector can become chafed, pinched, or frayed over time. Exposed copper wires can short-circuit against the car's metal body or against each other.
  3. Failed Fuel Pump Relay: Though less likely to immediately blow the fuse, a stuck-closed relay can sometimes cause issues. More often, a failed relay prevents power entirely.
  4. Other Short Circuits: Damage elsewhere in the fuel injection or ECU circuits protected by the FI-ECU fuse could potentially cause an overload.

Diagnosing the Underlying Cause

Addressing the cause requires careful diagnosis, potentially involving a professional mechanic if you're not comfortable working with automotive electrical systems:

  1. Listen for the Prime: If the new fuse holds but you still hear no fuel pump prime sound when turning the key to ON, the issue might be the fuse again (if immediately blown), the fuel pump relay, wiring before the pump, or the pump itself.
  2. Check for Voltage: With the ignition ON, carefully backprobe the connector to the fuel pump with a multimeter (checking for battery voltage at the power wire) or use a test light. No Power: Problem is upstream (wiring, fuse, relay). Correct Power: Problem is the fuel pump or its ground connection. Caution: Working with live circuits near fuel components requires extreme care.
  3. Fuel Pump Bench Test: If voltage at the pump connector is good but the pump doesn't run, the pump itself is likely faulty.
  4. Inspect Wiring Harness: Visually inspect the wiring harness running from the underbody to the fuel tank for obvious damage. Especially check areas where the harness passes through brackets or near moving parts.
  5. Test Pump Current Draw (Advanced): This requires a multimeter capable of measuring DC Amperage, set up in series between the power supply and the fuel pump. Compare the measured current draw to specifications (usually found in service manuals). Significantly exceeding specs indicates a failing pump.
  6. Check Relay: Swapping the fuel pump relay (Fuse #2 position in the under-dash fuse/relay box - confirm location!) with a known good identical relay is a quick test. The main relay (also under dash) can sometimes cause starting issues but won't usually blow the FI fuse.

Fuel Pump Replacement Considerations (If Needed)

If diagnostics point to a failed fuel pump, replacement is the solution. Key points for the 1999 Honda Civic:

  1. Access Requires Tank Removal: Unlike some later models with access panels, replacing the fuel pump on a 1999 Civic requires safely lowering the fuel tank from underneath the car. This is a complex task requiring proper support equipment, fuel line disconnection, vapor management, and safety precautions due to flammability. Unless highly experienced, this job is best left to a professional mechanic.
  2. Use Quality Parts: Fuel pumps are critical. Use OEM Honda pumps or high-quality replacements (like Denso, Aisin, Bosch) purchased from reputable sources. Budget pumps often fail prematurely.
  3. Replace Seal: Always replace the large rubber O-ring seal that fits around the fuel pump assembly where it locks into the tank. Reusing the old seal is likely to cause fuel leaks, which are hazardous.
  4. Filter/Sock: Inspect and replace the fuel pump's inlet strainer ("sock filter") if it is dirty, torn, or deteriorated.
  5. Consider Fuel Filter: While replacing the pump, it's a good opportunity to replace the main inline fuel filter located near the tank or fuel rail (model dependent).

Preventative Maintenance

While fuel pump fuses don't require routine replacement, proactive steps can prevent issues:

  1. Inspect Fuse Box: During routine maintenance (like oil changes), quickly open the under-hood fuse box cover. Check that Fuse #15 (and others) look intact and are seated firmly. Look for any signs of corrosion or melted plastic.
  2. Avoid Electrical Overloads: Be cautious when adding aftermarket electrical accessories. If wired improperly, they can strain circuits or create shorts. Use a dedicated fused circuit tapped from the battery for high-power accessories like amplifiers.
  3. Mind Wiring Modifications: If previous repairs involved the fuel pump wiring, ensure they were done correctly with proper connectors, insulation, and routing away from heat and sharp edges.
  4. Use Genuine Parts for Replacement: As mentioned, a quality fuel pump extends its life significantly.

Conclusion

Understanding the role and location of the 1999 Honda Civic fuel pump fuse (Fuse #15 / 15A "FI-ECU" in the under-hood box) is essential for diagnosing crank/no-start problems. Testing and replacing it is simple. However, recognizing that a blown fuse is usually a warning sign of a deeper issue, most commonly a failing fuel pump, is critical. Replacing the fuse might get you going temporarily, but diagnosing and fixing the underlying cause – whether it's the pump, damaged wiring, or something else – is essential for long-term reliability and safety. Pay attention to warning signs like no prime sound or repeated fuse failures. When in doubt, especially for complex tasks like fuel pump replacement, consult a qualified Honda technician.

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