2000 Honda Odyssey Fuel Pump Relay Location: Under Dashboard Fuse Box #14

Finding your 2000 Honda Odyssey's fuel pump relay is critical if the engine cranks but won't start due to fuel delivery issues. The fuel pump relay is definitively located in the primary interior fuse/relay box, on the driver's side lower dashboard, specifically in position #14.

When troubleshooting a no-start condition where you hear no fuel pump priming sound when turning the key to "ON" (before cranking), the fuel pump relay is a prime suspect. Knowing its exact location is the first step in testing or replacing it.

1. Detailed Location Description: Under the Driver's Side Dashboard

The Main Interior Fuse/Relay Box houses the fuel pump relay. Here’s precisely where and how to locate it:

  1. Sit in the Driver's Seat: Position yourself comfortably with clear access to the area left of the steering column, near the door.
  2. Look Down and Towards the Door: Focus your attention below the dashboard trim panel, close to the vehicle's outer edge (near the driver's door hinge pillar).
  3. Locate the Fuse Box Cover Panel: Find a rectangular, typically dark-colored plastic panel running vertically or diagonally downward. This panel acts as the access door to the fuse and relay compartment. Its lower edge sits close to the kick panel trim near your feet.
  4. Identify the Specific Release Mechanism: This panel is secured by plastic clips or tabs at its top or sides. Gently feel along its edges for the attachment points. It usually requires a slight inward push at the top edge or gentle pressure on its sides followed by pulling the bottom edge toward you to release the clips.
  5. Remove the Cover: Carefully pull the panel straight down and toward you once the clips release. Set it aside safely. Inside, you’ll see a densely packed array of fuses (generally smaller) and larger cube-shaped relays. The specific layout does vary slightly between Odyssey trim levels, but the relay positions are standardized within this model year.
  6. Find Relay Position #14: Scan the fuse/relay box. Positions are clearly numbered or labeled on the plastic holder itself or molded into the surrounding plastic. Crucially, the fuel pump relay for the 2000 Odyssey sits in position #14. This position holds a standard automotive micro relay.
  7. Identify the Relay: The fuel pump relay is typically deep blue or black, about 1 inch square and 1.25 inches tall, with electrical terminals protruding from the bottom. Its color coding follows general Honda practices for that era. Double-check against a diagram if one is printed on your removed cover panel or your owner's manual. The #14 marking on the fuse box panel is your definitive guide.

Knowing its specific position (#14) is key, as relying solely on color or general appearance without confirming the position can lead to accidentally pulling other critical relays like the Main Relay (ECU power) or Fan Relay.

2. Visual Confirmation: What Does the Fuel Pump Relay Look Like?

In Position #14, you will find a standard micro relay:

  • Shape: Square or slightly rectangular plastic base.
  • Size: Approximately 1 inch (25mm) wide x 1.25 inches (30mm) tall.
  • Color: Predominantly deep blue (less commonly black on earlier Hondas).
  • Terminals: Four or five metallic terminals (pins or spades) extending from the bottom where it plugs into the socket.
  • Identification Marking: It will likely have alphanumeric codes molded on the top face (e.g., HF32F, ZC, or potentially a Honda part number starting with 39400- or similar). These aren't usually relevant for basic identification if you are in the correct slot #14.

3. How to Remove and Inspect/Replace the Fuel Pump Relay (Step-by-Step)

Before handling relays:

  • Turn Ignition OFF and remove the key from the ignition switch.
  • Disconnect the Negative Battery Terminal: This is highly recommended to prevent short circuits or accidental system activation when inserting your fingers or tools near electrical contacts. Wait a few minutes for residual electrical charge to dissipate. Securely position the negative cable away from the battery post.

To Remove the Relay from its Socket #14:

  1. Access: Ensure the main interior fuse box cover panel is fully removed (see detailed location above).
  2. Inspect Position: Visually confirm you are at relay socket #14.
  3. Grasp Firmly: Your fingers will be sufficient for removal. Place your thumb and index finger firmly on the top and sides of the relay.
  4. Pull Straight Out: Do not twist or rock excessively. Apply steady, even pressure directly outward (away from the dashboard). Standard automotive relays are designed to pull directly out of their socket without needing to pry or lever them. A moderate amount of force is needed, exceeding what you'd use for a simple fuse. It should release cleanly.
  5. Examine the Removed Relay: Look for obvious signs of damage: melting, cracking, severe corrosion on the pins (usually green/white crust), or a burnt smell. Minor surface discoloration can be normal. The focus is on functionality testing.

Important: This process does not require dismantling the dashboard or removing other vehicle components. All access is gained through the removable fuse box cover panel near your feet.

4. Testing the Fuel Pump Relay: Two Simple Methods

Always disconnect the negative battery cable before handling relays. Have a helper if possible.

Method 1: The Substitution Test (Simple and Highly Recommended)

  1. Find an Identical Relay: Locate another relay in the fuse box with the same physical shape, size, and color as the one removed from slot #14. Common donor positions: Headlight relay (#15 or #16 - check labels on your panel), rear defogger relay (#18), horn relay (#19), or blower fan relay (#23). Avoid critical relays like the Main Relay (#29).
  2. Swap: Remove the identical relay from its socket and install it into the fuel pump relay socket (#14). The relay orientation is keyed; pins match the socket pattern only when aligned correctly.
  3. Test: Briefly reconnect the negative battery cable. Turn the ignition key to the "ON" position (do not crank). Listen near the rear of the car for the characteristic ~2-second fuel pump priming hum. You should hear it.
  4. Result: If you hear the fuel pump now primes normally with the swapped relay, your original relay in position #14 is faulty. If no priming occurs, proceed to testing the donor relay in its original position (it may be good, but the problem could lie elsewhere - fuel pump, fuse, wiring, inertia switch). The substitution test primarily confirms relay failure if the pump primes.

Method 2: Bench Testing the Suspect Relay

This requires a multimeter set to measure resistance (Ohms Ω).

  1. Identify Terminal Layout: Look closely at the bottom of the relay. The terminals correspond to specific internal circuits (common terminals):
    • Control Circuit: Two terminals (coil): Often labeled 85 and 86 (or terminals adjacent to each other).
    • Switched Power Circuit: Two terminals (contacts): The Common (COM - feeds power in) terminal and the Normally Open (NO - sends power out when relay is activated) terminal. Identifying these sometimes requires referencing a diagram.
  2. Test Coil Circuit (Continuity):
    • Set multimeter to Ω (resistance) measurement, lowest scale (e.g., 200Ω).
    • Touch probes firmly to terminals 85 and 86.
    • Expected Result: The meter should show a resistance reading between 50 and 120 Ohms. This indicates the control coil inside the relay is intact. Infinite resistance (OL, "1", or similar) means the coil is open/burned out.
  3. Test Contact Circuit (Activation): Testing the switch contacts requires activating the relay coil with 12V.
    • Recommended Method: Obtain a suitable 12-volt power source like a spare car battery or battery charger set correctly). Be extremely careful to avoid short circuits. Connect the positive (+) lead of the source to terminal 86. Connect the negative (-) lead to terminal 85. You should hear a distinct audible "click" from the relay as it energizes.
    • With multimeter still on Ω:
      • Before powering the coil: Touch probes to COM and NO terminals. Should read infinite resistance (open).
      • While applying 12V across 85/86: Touch probes to COM and NO terminals. Should read very low resistance (<1 Ohm - effectively a closed circuit).
    • Result: If the coil reads correct resistance but the contacts do not reliably CLOSE (show low Ω) when 12V is applied to the coil, the relay's switch contacts are faulty. Replace the relay.

Bench testing is slightly more advanced but confirms both coil integrity and contact switching function.

5. Replacing a Faulty Fuel Pump Relay

  1. Obtain Correct Replacement:
    • Use an Exact Match: Ensure the new relay has the identical terminal configuration and physical dimensions as the original removed from slot #14. Common standards are Micro ISO relay or Micro Cube relay.
    • Rating: Ensure it's rated for at least 10 Amps, which is standard for automotive micro relays handling fuel pumps.
    • Source: Purchase from a Honda dealer (OEM), reputable auto parts store, or online retailer using the old relay's part number (usually molded on top) or specifying a compatible part for "2000 Honda Odyssey Fuel Pump Relay". Avoid generic relays without clear automotive specifications. Always match terminal layout (pin count and pattern).
  2. Installation:
    • Check Orientation: Look at the socket #14 and the relay base. Notice the unique terminal shapes or a keying notch/molding on the relay body. Align it perfectly with the socket.
    • Press Firmly: Position the relay correctly over the socket. Apply firm, even pressure straight down into the socket until it seats fully. You should hear and feel a positive 'click' when it locks into place. Verify it sits flush with other surrounding relays/fuses.
  3. Reconnect Battery and Test: Securely reconnect the negative battery terminal. Turn the ignition to "ON" and listen for the fuel pump prime. Start the engine. If successful, the repair is complete.
  4. Refit Cover: Carefully reinstall the fuse box cover panel, pressing firmly until all clips audibly re-engage.

6. Common Problems and Symptoms Associated

  • Intermittent Starting: Random no-start events where the engine cranks fine but doesn't fire, sometimes starting after multiple attempts or letting it sit. A failing relay may work when cold but fail when hot, or vice-versa. The relay makes or breaks a crucial electrical connection to the fuel pump.
  • No Fuel Pump Prime: No audible "buzz" or "hum" from the rear of the vehicle for 1-2 seconds immediately after turning the ignition key to the "ON" position (before cranking) is a classic symptom of fuel pump relay failure or related circuit problem (fuse, pump). This sound is the pump pressurizing the fuel lines.
  • Engine Dies While Driving: Though less common than causing a no-start, a relay failing during operation can cause sudden loss of power or stalling as the fuel pump instantly loses power. This is dangerous and requires immediate attention.
  • Burnt Contacts or Melted Plastic: Visible damage on the relay indicates overheating due to internal arcing or high resistance in the circuit it controls. Replace immediately. Do not attempt repair. Physical damage signifies component failure.
  • Difficult Relay Removal/Installation: Corroded pins or damaged sockets can cause sticking or poor contact. Carefully clean terminal pins with electrical contact cleaner and a fine brush like a brass bristle brush if they look corroded. Bent terminals can prevent proper seating; very gently straighten them using needle-nose pliers only if you have experience. This requires extreme caution.
  • Confusion with Main Relay: Sometimes confused with the Honda Main Relay (usually also located in the under-dash fuse box, often position #29). The Main Relay provides power to the ECU and injectors. If both relays look similar, ALWAYS confirm by position number (#14 vs. #29) to avoid misdiagnosis.
  • Fuse Check: The fuel pump circuit also has a protective fuse. For the 2000 Odyssey, this fuse is usually located in the main under-hood fuse/relay box. Consult your owner's manual diagram. Always check fuse #14 (likely 15 Amp) in the under-hood box first if the fuel pump fails to prime, before suspecting the relay. A blown fuse is simpler to address and points to an overload condition.

7. Safety Precautions (Crucial)

  • Disconnect Battery: Always disconnect the negative battery cable before handling relays or fuses to eliminate the risk of short circuits, sparks, or electrical shock. Vehicle electrical systems operate at battery voltage (approx. 12V DC), which while not electrocution-risk voltage, can cause significant sparks, melted tools, component damage, or fires if terminals are inadvertently shorted during work.
  • No Live Testing: Never probe relay socket terminals or wires with test equipment while the battery is connected and ignition is on. Accidental shorts can damage sensitive electronic control modules like the ECM or PCM. Disconnect the battery negative cable before connecting multimeter leads to sockets.
  • Avoid Fuel System Pressure: While accessing the relay does not require working with fuel lines, be aware that if the fuel pump starts working after fixing the relay, the lines will be pressurized. Do not attempt to disconnect fuel lines unless the system is properly depressurized (see a professional if needed for deeper fuel system work). Pressurized fuel spray carries significant fire and injury risks.
  • Anti-Static Measures: While less critical than computer RAM, static discharge isn't ideal for delicate relays. Consider grounding yourself by touching bare metal on the car's frame before handling the relay. Use caution in dry environments.
  • Fire Extinguisher: Have a working fire extinguisher rated for electrical (Class C) and flammable liquid (Class B) fires readily available when performing any electrical work on a vehicle. Your primary risk is sparking near the battery, not the relay box.
  • Safety Glasses: Wear eye protection when under the dashboard to guard against falling debris or accidental contact. Vehicles accumulate dust and dirt in crevices.

8. Related Components: Where Else to Look?

  • Fuel Pump: Located inside the fuel tank. Replacement requires tank access or dropping the tank - a significant job. Test power at the pump connector after confirming the relay and fuse are good. The pump motor itself can wear out, seize, or be damaged by contamination.
  • Fuel Pump Fuse: As mentioned, check this FIRST. Usually a 15-20 Amp fuse in the under-hood fuse box supplying voltage to the fuel pump relay coil. A blown fuse interrupts power to the relay, preventing it from activating and supplying power to the fuel pump motor. Labeling is crucial ("Fuel Pump" or "FP"). Refer to owner's manual or fuse box lid diagram.
  • Inertia Switch / Fuel Cutoff Switch: Senses impact and shuts off the fuel pump as a safety measure. Located in the cabin or trunk area (e.g., passenger kick panel near footwell or rear quarter panel in cargo area). Can be accidentally tripped by a bump. Resetting involves pushing a button on the switch. Confirm location for your specific Odyssey trim level (e.g., EX may have one, some LX/L models might not).
  • ECM/PCM: Controls the ground signal to the fuel pump relay coil (via pin 85). Internal ECM failure affecting this circuit is rare but possible if the relay coil circuit tests open from the ECM side. Diagnosing requires electrical schematics and skill. The ECM (Engine Control Module) or PCM (Powertrain Control Module) manages overall engine operations.
  • Wiring Harness: Damage, corrosion, or breaks in the wiring between the relay socket, the fuel pump, the ECM, and ground points can cause identical symptoms. Visually inspect accessible sections for damage. Pinpointing requires a wiring diagram and multimeter testing for continuity and voltage drops. Wiring problems often manifest as intermittent issues related to vehicle movement, temperature changes, or vibration.

9. Essential Diagrams and Visual Aids (Conceptual)

  • Relay Positions: Images showing the layout of the driver's side lower dash fuse box, highlighting position #14 as the fuel pump relay location. This is the single most valuable visual.
  • Fuse Box Cover Panel Removal: Illustrations demonstrating how to release and remove the fuse box cover for access. Emphasizes the clip mechanism location.
  • Relay Identification: Close-up photos showing a standard Honda deep blue micro relay (removed and in socket #14). Details the color, shape, and terminal pins.
  • Wiring Schematic Concepts: Simplified flowcharts showing battery voltage flow through the fuse, into the relay, activated by the ECM signal when the ignition is turned ON, then out to the fuel pump and back to ground. Avoid complex electrical engineering symbols; use functional blocks.

10. Additional Tips for Success

  • Cold Testing: If dealing with an intermittent failure, check the relay immediately after an incident (engine failed to start) when the symptom is present. Some failing relays only fail when hot (after driving) or cold (overnight). Knowing when the problem occurs aids diagnosis.
  • Use Correct Probe: When testing voltage at sockets or terminals, ensure your multimeter probe tips are sharp enough to make good contact in small recessed areas without slipping. Needle tip probes are ideal. Ensure firm contact for accurate readings.
  • Clean Connections: Apply electrical contact lubricant sparingly to the metal terminals of the new relay before installing it. This prevents future oxidation and ensures a good conductive path. Cleaning the socket contacts is difficult without specialized tools; focus on the relay pins.
  • Documentation: Take a photo of the fuse box layout with your phone before removing any relays/fuses. If labels are worn or missing, having a digital reference prevents re-installation errors. Numbering sometimes fades.
  • OEM vs. Aftermarket: While reputable aftermarket relays are often fine, using an OEM Honda part ensures precise compatibility and build quality. If using aftermarket, stick with major, known brands (e.g., Bosch, Denso, TYC).
  • Torque Spec: There is no specific torque spec for plugging in relays. The installation force is "hand tight" to a secure click. No tools should be used to force installation – this indicates incorrect terminal alignment.
  • Part Number Reference: Common OEM part number for the fuel pump relay is 39400-SDA-003 or superseding equivalents. Confirm based on the number physically on your relay. The SDA code is specific to certain Honda suppliers.

Key Takeaway Revisited:
Always start troubleshooting a silent fuel pump on your 2000 Honda Odyssey by checking the associated fuse in the under-hood box. If the fuse is good, then locate the fuel pump relay in the driver’s lower interior fuse box (position #14). Use the substitution test with an identical relay for quick confirmation. Following this targeted approach can efficiently resolve many common no-start scenarios related to fuel delivery. Knowing the precise position (#14) is critical for rapid diagnosis.

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