2002 Honda Civic Fuel Pump Relay Location: Find & Fix It Fast

The fuel pump relay for your 2002 Honda Civic is located inside the under-hood fuse and relay box. Specifically, it occupies position #6 in the main relay/fuse panel situated near the driver's side strut tower in the engine compartment. Identifying it is straightforward: look for a small, square, black plastic cube labeled with the number "6" on the fuse box diagram and likely the number "6" molded into the plastic base of the relay itself. Knowing this location is crucial for diagnosing and resolving common starting or fuel delivery issues.

Where Exactly Is It Located?

  1. Open the Hood: Securely prop open the hood of your 2002 Civic.
  2. Locate the Under-Hood Fuse/Relay Box: Stand facing the engine bay from the front of the car. Look towards the back left corner (driver's side), near the windshield. You will see a rectangular black plastic box mounted near the top of the driver's side strut tower. This is the primary fuse and relay center.
  3. Open the Fuse Box Cover: The box has a lid secured by clips. Carefully unclip and remove the lid. Set it aside safely.
  4. Identify Relay Position #6: Inside the box, you'll see an array of fuses (small, often colored plastic components) and relays (larger, typically black plastic cubes). Look at the underside of the lid you just removed. It should have a detailed diagram or chart listing every fuse and relay position and its function.
    • Locate the position labeled "FUEL PUMP" or "FP" on this diagram. For the 2002 Civic, this is almost universally position #6.
    • Confirm this by looking directly at the relay sockets inside the box. Each socket position is usually numbered clearly on the plastic base surrounding it. Find the socket marked "6".
  5. Identify the Relay Itself: Position #6 will be occupied by a standard automotive relay. It will be a small, square or slightly rectangular, black plastic component with several metal prongs (terminals) on the bottom, plugged into the socket. It might also have the number "6" molded into its plastic base near the top.

Why the Fuel Pump Relay Matters

The fuel pump relay is a critical electronic switch in your Civic's fuel system. Its job is simple but vital:

  1. Power Control: When you turn the ignition key to the "ON" (II) position, the Engine Control Module (ECM) sends a signal to the fuel pump relay.
  2. Activation: This signal energizes the relay's internal electromagnet.
  3. Circuit Completion: The energized magnet pulls internal contacts together, completing the high-current circuit from the battery to the fuel pump.
  4. Pump Operation: With power flowing, the fuel pump (located inside the fuel tank) activates. It pressurizes the fuel lines, delivering gasoline to the engine's fuel injectors. The pump typically runs for a few seconds to build pressure when you first turn the key to "ON," and then runs continuously once the engine is cranking or running.

If this relay fails – meaning it cannot complete the circuit – the fuel pump receives no power. Consequently, no fuel pressure is built, and the engine cannot start or run. A faulty relay is a common culprit behind "no-start" conditions where the engine cranks normally but refuses to fire.

Symptoms of a Faulty Fuel Pump Relay

Recognizing the signs of a failing relay can save you time and diagnostic headaches:

  1. Engine Cranks But Won't Start: This is the hallmark symptom. The starter motor turns the engine over normally, but the engine doesn't fire up because no fuel is being delivered.
  2. Intermittent Starting Problems: The car might start fine sometimes and fail to start at other times, especially when the engine is warm. This happens as heat can exacerbate internal faults in a failing relay.
  3. No Fuel Pump Prime Sound: When you turn the ignition key to the "ON" (II) position (before cranking), you should hear a distinct whirring or humming sound from the rear of the car (near the fuel tank) for about 2 seconds. This is the fuel pump priming the system. If you hear no sound at all when turning the key to "ON," a faulty relay (or fuse, or pump) is a prime suspect.
  4. Engine Stalls Suddenly While Driving: A relay that fails completely while the engine is running will instantly cut power to the fuel pump, causing the engine to die immediately as if the ignition was turned off.
  5. Check Engine Light (CEL): While not always present, a failing relay might trigger a Check Engine Light. Common related codes include P0230 (Fuel Pump Primary Circuit Malfunction) or sometimes codes related to fuel pressure (P0190 series) if the lack of pump operation causes pressure issues detectable by the sensor.

How to Test the 2002 Civic Fuel Pump Relay (Simple Methods)

Before rushing to replace the relay, it's wise to test it. Here are practical methods:

Method 1: The Swap Test (Easiest & Most Recommended)

  1. Locate the Relay: Find relay #6 as described above.
  2. Identify a Matching Relay: Look at the other relays in the under-hood box. Honda often uses identical or compatible relays for different circuits. Common candidates are the Radiator Fan Relay (position #1) or the A/C Compressor Clutch Relay (position #7). Crucially, check the part number or physical markings on the relays. If they look identical (same size, same terminal configuration, same part number molded on top), they are likely interchangeable for testing.
  3. Swap the Relays: Carefully pull out the suspected fuel pump relay (#6) and the identical relay from another position (e.g., #1 or #7). Plug the known-good relay (from #1 or #7) into the fuel pump socket (#6). Plug the suspected faulty relay into the socket you took the good relay from.
  4. Test Operation:
    • Turn the ignition key to "ON" (II). Listen carefully near the rear of the car. Do you now hear the fuel pump prime? If yes, the original relay in position #6 was likely faulty.
    • Attempt to start the engine. Does it start? If it starts with the swapped relay, this confirms the original fuel pump relay is bad.
  5. Check the Other Circuit: Briefly check if the circuit you swapped the bad relay into (e.g., radiator fan or A/C) still functions normally when activated. This helps confirm the swap didn't cause an issue, but the primary goal is diagnosing the fuel pump circuit.

Method 2: Listen for the Click

  1. Locate the Relay: Find relay #6.
  2. Have an Assistant Help: You need someone to turn the key.
  3. Feel and Listen: Place your fingers lightly on the relay. Have your assistant turn the ignition key to the "ON" (II) position.
  4. Sensation: You should feel and hear a distinct, solid "click" from within the relay as it energizes. This click indicates the internal electromagnet is pulling the contacts together.
  5. Interpretation: If you feel/hear a click, the relay's control circuit (the part that activates the electromagnet) is likely working. However, this does not guarantee the main power contacts inside are making a good connection. A relay can click but still fail to pass power to the pump. If you hear no click, the relay is definitely faulty or not receiving the activation signal from the ECM.

Method 3: Basic Power Test (Requires a Test Light or Multimeter)

  • Warning: This involves probing live circuits. Ensure the ignition is OFF before connecting/disconnecting probes. Be cautious not to short terminals.
  • Tools: 12V test light or Digital Multimeter (DMM).
  • Identify Terminals (Refer to Diagram): The relay socket has 4 or 5 terminals. The lid diagram might label them. Common Honda relay terminal functions (viewed from the bottom, pins facing you):
    • Two Larger Terminals: These are the main power circuit terminals. One should have constant battery power (B+), the other goes to the fuel pump.
    • Two Smaller Terminals: These are the control circuit. One gets power when ignition is ON (often from the ECM), the other is ground.
    • (Some relays may have a 5th terminal, often unused or for a diagnostic signal).
  • Test for Constant Power (B+):
    1. Set multimeter to DC Volts (20V range) or use test light grounded to chassis.
    2. Ignition OFF. Probe one of the larger terminals in the relay socket (#6).
    3. One of them should show battery voltage (around 12V) or light the test light. This is the constant power feed. Mark this terminal mentally.
  • Test Control Signal:
    1. Ground your multimeter's black lead or test light clip securely to the chassis.
    2. Ignition OFF. Probe one of the smaller terminals. You shouldn't see voltage.
    3. Have an assistant turn ignition to "ON" (II).
    4. One of the smaller terminals should now show battery voltage (or light the test light) for a few seconds. This is the activation signal from the ECM. If you get no voltage here, the problem might be upstream (ECM, wiring, ignition switch).
  • Test Ground: With ignition OFF, set multimeter to Ohms (resistance) or continuity. Probe the other small terminal and a known good ground (chassis). You should get low resistance (near 0 Ohms) or a continuity beep. This confirms the ground path is good.
  • Testing the Relay Itself (Bench Test): If you suspect the relay but the socket tests show power and signal are present:
    1. Remove the relay.
    2. Apply 12V (use jumper wires from battery) to the two small control terminals (check diagram for exact pins).
    3. Use multimeter set to Ohms/Continuity to test the two large main terminals.
    4. Without voltage applied: Should be "Open" (no continuity, infinite resistance).
    5. With 12V applied to control terminals: Should be "Closed" (continuity, near 0 resistance). If it doesn't close when powered, the relay is faulty.

How to Replace the Fuel Pump Relay

If testing confirms the relay is bad, replacement is simple:

  1. Purchase the Correct Relay: Obtain a replacement relay. Honda part number is 056700-4350 (Denso part number often 056700-4350 or 063700-4350). You can also use a high-quality aftermarket equivalent (e.g., Standard Motors RY-134, Bosch 0332019150). Ensure it matches physically and in terminal configuration. Bring your old one to the parts store to match.
  2. Turn Ignition OFF: Ensure the key is out of the ignition.
  3. Locate & Remove Old Relay: Open the under-hood fuse box lid. Find relay #6. Grasp it firmly and pull it straight up and out of its socket. It might require a bit of wiggling if it's snug. Avoid excessive force.
  4. Install New Relay: Take the new relay and orient it correctly (look at the terminal pattern to match the socket). Push it firmly and squarely down into the socket until it seats completely. You should feel it click into place.
  5. Test: Turn the ignition key to "ON" (II). Listen for the fuel pump prime sound (2-second whir from the rear). If you hear it, try starting the engine. It should start normally.
  6. Replace Fuse Box Lid: Securely clip the lid back onto the fuse box.

Important Considerations & Troubleshooting Tips

  • Check the Fuel Pump Fuse FIRST: Before suspecting the relay, always check the associated fuse. For the 2002 Civic fuel pump circuit, this is typically Fuse #6 (15A) located inside the passenger compartment fuse box. The under-hood fuse box lid diagram will also show this fuse. A blown fuse will also cause a no-fuel-pump situation. Replace a blown fuse with one of the exact same amperage rating.
  • Don't Confuse Relays: The under-hood box has several similar-looking relays. Double-check you are testing/replacing the correct one (#6 for Fuel Pump). The PGM-FI Main Relay (often position #11) is a common point of confusion but controls power to the ECM and injectors, not directly the fuel pump.
  • Listen for the Pump: The fuel pump prime sound is a key diagnostic clue. No sound points strongly to power delivery issues (fuse, relay, wiring, pump motor failure). Hearing the sound points towards issues after the pump (clogged filter, bad pressure regulator, injector issues) or ignition/spark problems.
  • Relay Quality Matters: Cheap, low-quality relays fail prematurely. Opt for OEM (Honda/Denso), known reputable aftermarket brands (Standard, Bosch, Omron), or high-quality store brands.
  • Intermittent Issues: If the problem is intermittent, tapping the relay lightly with the handle of a screwdriver while an assistant tries to start the car can sometimes make a failing relay work temporarily, confirming the fault. Replace it immediately if this works.
  • Wiring Issues: While less common than relay failure, damaged wires (chafed, corroded, rodent damage) in the circuit between the battery, relay, fuse, or fuel pump can cause identical symptoms. If replacing the relay and fuse doesn't fix the issue, wiring inspection may be necessary.
  • Fuel Pump Failure: Ultimately, the fuel pump itself can fail. If you have confirmed power is reaching the fuel pump connector (at the tank) when the ignition is turned ON (using a test light or multimeter), but the pump doesn't run, then the pump motor is likely faulty and requires replacement.

Conclusion

Locating and understanding the 2002 Honda Civic fuel pump relay (position #6 in the under-hood fuse/relay box) is fundamental knowledge for diagnosing common no-start conditions. Symptoms like cranking without starting and the absence of the fuel pump prime sound strongly suggest a problem in this circuit. Simple tests like swapping relays or listening for the relay click can often pinpoint the relay as the culprit. Replacement is a quick and inexpensive DIY fix. Always remember to check the related fuse first and be aware that while the relay is a frequent failure point, issues like a blown fuse, wiring problems, or a failed fuel pump itself can produce similar symptoms. Knowing where to look and how to test empowers you to get your Civic back on the road quickly and efficiently.

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