2004 Buick LeSabre Fuel Pump: Your Complete Guide to Symptoms, Diagnosis, Replacement & Prevention

The fuel pump in your 2004 Buick LeSabre is a critical, wear-prone component. Mounted inside the fuel tank, this electric pump delivers pressurized gasoline to the engine. When it fails or weakens, your car can experience symptoms ranging from hard starting and engine stalling to a complete no-start. Understanding its function, recognizing failure signs early, knowing your replacement options (OEM vs. aftermarket), and understanding the repair process or undertaking a careful DIY replacement with proper safety precautions are essential for maintaining your LeSabre’s reliability. Ignoring fuel pump issues inevitably leads to unexpected breakdowns.

Why the Fuel Pump is Vital

Think of your LeSabre’s engine as needing a constant, precise flow of fuel, similar to how your body needs a steady blood supply. The fuel pump is the heart of this fuel system. Unlike older mechanical pumps, the 2004 LeSabre uses an immersed electric fuel pump located directly within the fuel tank. This design has key advantages:

• Cooling: Submerging the pump in gasoline helps dissipate the significant heat generated during operation, extending its lifespan.
• Priming: Being submerged means the pump doesn’t need to "pull" fuel long distances, making initial priming after service or a tank run dry easier. It pushes fuel instead.

Its core job is straightforward but critical: draw fuel from the tank and deliver it to the fuel injectors under consistently high pressure. The Powertrain Control Module (PCM) regulates the pump speed and operation primarily through a relay.

Key Technical Specifications (2004 LeSabre 3.8L V6):

• Location: Inside fuel tank, mounted on or part of the fuel pump module assembly.
• Fuel Pump Type: Electric turbine-style pump.
• Operating Pressure: Typically designed to deliver between 58-64 PSI (pounds per square inch) to the fuel rail. Maintaining this pressure is crucial for proper engine operation.
• Control: Primarily via the fuel pump relay, powered when the ignition key is turned to "Run" or "Start". The PCM controls the relay circuit.
• Assembly: Includes the pump strainer ("sock" filter), the pump itself, fuel level sender unit, pressure regulator (often on some models, but location varies), wiring, and mounting assembly.

Understanding Fuel Pump Failure: Causes and Symptoms

Fuel pumps are subject to wear and tear over time and miles. While failure can seem sudden, symptoms often appear gradually. Knowing the typical culprits helps understand the risks and potential prevention:

• Normal Wear and Tear: The electric motor bearings and carbon brushes inside the pump physically wear down with age, especially beyond the 100,000-150,000 mile mark common for many GM pumps of this era.
• Overheating: Running the tank consistently low on fuel is a major contributor. Gasoline acts as a coolant for the pump motor. Low fuel levels mean less coolant, causing the pump to run hotter and wear out faster. Severe overheating can damage internal windings.
• Contamination/Debris: A clogged or deteriorated fuel filter allows rust, dirt, or debris to reach the pump. While the pump has an inlet strainer ("sock"), severe contamination can overwhelm it, increasing pump strain or causing outright damage. The strainer itself can become clogged.
• Electrical Issues: Constant voltage fluctuations, low system voltage (weak battery or alternator problems), or corroded wiring/connections put undue stress on the pump motor. A failing relay causing intermittent operation can also mimic pump failure and contribute to its premature demise.
• Fuel Quality: Consistently using low-quality or contaminated gasoline increases wear on pump components and promotes varnish buildup inside the pump.

Recognizing Symptoms is Crucial: Early diagnosis prevents being stranded.

• Hard Starting (Long Cranking): The most frequent early sign. The engine cranks normally but takes much longer than usual (several seconds) to fire. Indicates the pump is struggling to build sufficient pressure quickly. Often most noticeable when the engine is warm ("heat soak").
• Engine Sputtering or Stalling (Especially Under Load): Driving along fine, then acceleration causes hesitation, sputtering, bucking, or even stalling. Climbing hills or accelerating onto highways triggers it because the engine demands more fuel pressure than a weakened pump can supply. This symptom strongly points towards a failing pump.
• Loss of Power During Acceleration: Similar to sputtering, but manifests as a noticeable lack of power when you press the accelerator, even if the engine doesn't stall outright. The car feels sluggish.
• Engine Stalling Out (No Warning): A more advanced symptom. The engine suddenly cuts out during operation (idle, cruising, acceleration), requiring a restart attempt. Can sometimes restart easily after sitting briefly (pump cools slightly).
• Engine Doesn't Start (No-Start Condition): The most definitive sign of pump failure, but confirm it's not something else first! If the starter cranks the engine normally, yet there is no audible hum/buzz sound from the rear of the car (the pump priming) for 2-3 seconds when the key is first turned to "Run" (before cranking), the pump, its fuse, relay, or wiring are likely culprits. Listen carefully near the rear seat or fuel filler door.
• Unusual Noises from Fuel Tank Area: A loud, constant whining, buzzing, or humming sound coming from beneath the rear of the car (especially noticeable with the rear seat folded down or outside near the tank), louder than the normal brief priming sound, indicates a severely worn pump or low fuel level (if sound changes after refueling, investigate pump wear).
• Illuminated Check Engine Light (CEL) with Related Codes: Note: The PCM cannot directly detect a failing fuel pump motor itself. However, pump failure causes symptoms that generate common codes:
  • P0171 / P0174: System Too Lean (Bank 1 / Bank 2) - Insufficient fuel delivery.
  • P0300: Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected - Often due to lean mixture from low fuel pressure.
  • Fuel Trim Codes (e.g., P1125): Often indicate a fueling imbalance potentially linked to pressure issues.
• Secondary Effects: While less specific, persistently poor fuel economy can sometimes be associated with a struggling pump not delivering optimal pressure/volume. Surging can occur at idle or steady speeds as pressure fluctuates wildly.

Accurate Diagnosis: Don't Just Guess

Replacing a fuel pump is labor-intensive and costly. Verifying the pump is the actual problem before proceeding saves significant time and money.

1. Listen for the Prime: Have an assistant turn the ignition key to "Run" (not "Start") while you listen near the fuel tank/rear seat. You should hear a distinct buzzing/humming for about 2-3 seconds. Silence strongly indicates a power issue (fuse, relay, wiring) or a dead pump.
2. Check Fuses & Relay FIRST:
   • Fuse: Locate the fuse panel (likely under the rear seat or in the trunk on driver's side for the LeSabre). Check the "F/PMP" (Fuel Pump) fuse in the manual/index. Remove it and inspect the wire element – it should be intact. A blown fuse indicates a short and must be fixed before replacing the pump.
   • Relay: The Fuel Pump Relay is located in the Underhood Electrical Center. Identify it using the diagram on the fuse box cover. Swap it with an identical relay (like the horn relay – check diagram!) known to work. If the pump primes after swapping relays, the original relay is faulty. This is a very common, inexpensive fix if the relay is bad.
3. Fuel Pressure Test: The gold standard diagnosis. Requires a fuel pressure test kit gauge with a GM Schrader valve adapter (commonly found on the fuel rail near the engine). Steps:
   • Safety First: Relieve fuel pressure (more on this below). Wear eye protection.
   • Connect the gauge securely to the Schrader valve on the fuel rail.
   • Turn key to "Run" (don't start). Note pressure reading. Should jump towards specification (58-64 PSI).
   • Perform the "Key-On" Test: If pressure is low, cycle the key "On-Off-On-Off-On" (3 cycles within 10 seconds). This triggers the pump 3 times. Watch the gauge. It should rise quickly and hold near spec on the third cycle. Slow rise indicates weak pump or pressure regulator leak. Immediate pressure bleed-off when pump stops points to a regulator or injector leak.
   • Running Test (Use Extreme Caution - Hot Engine): Start the engine. Pressure should remain relatively stable at 48-55 PSI at idle and increase significantly (56-64 PSI) if you briefly unplug the vacuum line from the fuel pressure regulator (FPR). Fluctuations or drops indicate fuel pump issues, a failing FPR, or a clogged filter. Consult a repair manual for specific acceptable pressure ranges and procedures.
   • Flow Test: Some shops perform a volume test using a special tool to catch fuel returning to the tank over a timed interval.
4. Check Voltage & Current: A multimeter is essential.
   • At Pump Connector: Access the connector near the pump/module (often under the rear seat or trunk liner). CAUTION: This involves releasing fuel pressure and potentially moving fuel lines. If unsure, test elsewhere.
     • Voltage: With key turned to "Run", measure voltage between the power wire (often gray or pink) and ground. Should show close to battery voltage (12V+) for the 2-3 second priming period. If power is missing at the connector, trace wiring back to the relay.
     • Current Draw: Measure amperage flow (requires breaking circuit or using clamp meter) while pump is running. A healthy pump draws 4-7 amps. Draw significantly higher (e.g., 10-15A) indicates an obstruction (clogged filter/strainer) or worn pump motor. Low or zero draw indicates an open circuit or dead pump.

DIY Fuel Pump Replacement: Detailed, Cautious Step-by-Step (Serious Undertaking)

Replacing a fuel pump involves handling significant amounts of flammable gasoline and working on pressurized lines. This is a complex task requiring patience, proper tools, strict safety protocols, and mechanical aptitude. If uncomfortable, seek a professional. This guide assumes a reasonable level of mechanical skill.

Disclaimer: This is a general guide. Specific steps can vary slightly depending on equipment and access points. Consult a service manual for your specific year and trim.

Essential Tools & Parts:

• New Fuel Pump Module Assembly: Strongly recommended for DIY. Avoid cheap pumps. See "Choosing the Right Replacement" below. Ensure it includes the pump, strainer, sending unit, and seal/gasket kit. (e.g., ACDelco MU174).
• Safety Gear: Safety glasses, non-latex gloves rated for gasoline, long sleeves.
• Hand Tools:
  • Floor jack & sturdy, rated Jack Stands (x4).
  • Basic socket set (Metric: 10mm, 12mm, 13mm, 15mm common), ratchets, extensions (long needed!).
  • Torx bit set (T20/T30 commonly used for tank straps/skid plates).
  • Screwdrivers (Flathead/Phillips).
  • Pliers (Slip-joint, channel locks).
  • Trim removal tools or wide plastic putty knife (prying carefully).
• Fuel-Safe Tools/Supplies:
  • Fuel Line Disconnect Tool Set (MUST have the right sizes for GM spring lock fittings – usually 3/8" & 5/16").
  • Large container for fuel drain-off (5+ gallon approved container).
  • Siphon pump/hand pump OR safe fluid evacuation equipment (avoid sparks!).
  • Brake cleaner or dedicated carb/fuel system cleaner for safe residue removal.
  • Shop towels (high absorbency).
  • Drain pan.
• Replacement Parts: New pump module assembly, new fuel tank seal/O-ring, new fuel filter (excellent time to replace!). Small wire brush.
• Torque Wrench: Critical for reinstalling tank straps correctly.

Safety is Paramount:

1. Cold Engine: Work ONLY on a cold engine. Hot components near fuel are extremely dangerous.
2. Disconnect Battery: ALWAYS disconnect the NEGATIVE (-) battery terminal first! Secure it away from the battery post.
3. Relieve Fuel Pressure:
   • Locate the Schrader valve on the fuel rail (resembles a tire valve stem, usually capped). Place a shop rag around it.
   • Slowly depress the valve core using a small screwdriver or valve tool. Stand back! Fuel under pressure will spray out. Catch with rag/drain pan until only vapor escapes.
4. Fire Extinguisher: Have a fully charged, suitable (Class B or ABC) fire extinguisher nearby and know how to use it.
5. Ventilation: Work in a VERY well-ventilated area. Never work in an enclosed space like a home garage without garage door fully open and fan blowing fumes OUT. Gasoline vapors are heavier than air and highly explosive. Eliminate ALL ignition sources (sparks, flames, pilot lights, cigarettes, etc.).
6. Contain Spills: Use drain pans and absorbent towels immediately. Clean any spills instantly with cleaner.

Replacement Procedure:

1. Access the Fuel Tank:
   • Park on level, hard ground. Engage parking brake firmly. Place wheel chocks behind front wheels.
   • Disconnect the negative battery cable.
   • Relieve fuel pressure as described above.
   • Drain the Fuel Tank: This is often the most challenging aspect. The LeSabre tank has no large drain plug.
     • Method 1 (Most Common DIY): Siphon as much fuel as possible OUT of the filler neck into an approved container using a manual siphon pump. Be persistent – expect difficulty getting the last 1/3 of the tank. Avoid sparks!
     • Method 2 (Less Common): After draining via siphon as much as possible, plan to catch significant fuel spillage when disconnecting lines and lowering the partially full tank (use pans strategically). Requires extreme caution.
     • Access via Rear Seat?: Lift the rear seat bottom cushion. Most 2004 LeSabres require dropping the tank, but check for a circular metal access panel under the carpet. If present, replacement might be possible through this panel, avoiding tank removal. Verify access hole size vs. pump module diameter. Otherwise, proceed to drop the tank.
2. Lower the Tank:
   • Jack up the car securely onto 4 jack stands following safe lifting points per the owner's manual. Ensure stability.
   • Locate and remove plastic underbody panels/shields blocking access to the tank and straps.
   • Support the fuel tank with your floor jack and a wide, non-marring block of wood to distribute weight.
   • Disconnect all electrical connectors going to the pump module and fuel level sender. Carefully note positions/wire colors if not keyed. Label them! The main pump connector is vital.
   • Disconnect the EVAP (Vapor) canister lines and fuel lines near the tank. USE FUEL LINE DISCONNECT TOOLS: Do not pry! These are spring-lock couplings:
     • Push the line toward the fitting.
     • Slide the correct size disconnect tool into the gap between the line collar and the fitting body until you feel/hear the spring lock disengage.
     • Pull the line away while holding the tool in place. Expect residual fuel drips – have pan and rags ready.
   • Identify the two large J-bolt tank straps running front-to-back above the tank.
   • Support the tank securely with the jack. Remove the nuts securing the straps (usually 15mm or large Torx). The straps will loosen but remain attached at one end. Carefully lower the jack supporting the tank several inches. Slowly – the tank may stick slightly.
   • DO NOT damage the fuel fill neck hose or the smaller vapor vent lines. Carefully maneuver the tank downward, ensuring lines have slack. Lower it enough to clearly access the top of the tank where the pump module mounts (typically requiring at least 6-10 inches of clearance). Place wooden blocks under the tank if needed for stability without damaging it.
3. Remove Old Fuel Pump Module:
   • Clean the top of the tank thoroughly around the large retaining ring/nut to prevent contamination.
   • The pump is held in by a large plastic locking ring surrounding the module neck. Turn Ring COUNTER-CLOCKWISE (Lefty-Loosey): Use a large brass punch, flat screwdriver, or specialized spanner tool carefully tapped with a hammer to release the ring locking tabs. Go slowly and methodically around the ring; they can be very tight and brittle with age. Protect plastic lugs.
   • Once loose, carefully lift out the entire fuel pump module assembly. Watch for the float arm of the fuel level sender. CAUTION: Significant fuel will likely spill out (have drain pan ready!). Note orientation.
   • Carefully remove the large O-ring seal from the tank hole or the module neck. Discard it. Clean the sealing surfaces on both the tank and module meticulously. Any grit prevents a proper seal and causes leaks.
4. Install New Fuel Pump Module:
   • Compare the new module assembly directly to the old one. Ensure the strainer sock looks identical, the float arm is the same shape, and the electrical connector is the same.
   • PREP NEW SEAL: Lubricate the brand new O-ring seal generously with clean engine oil or fresh gasoline. DO NOT use silicone grease or petroleum jelly! This is critical to prevent it from tearing or pinching during installation and to ensure a perfect seal. Oil/Gas helps it slide smoothly.
   • Carefully guide the new pump module assembly into the tank, aligning it exactly as the old one was removed. Ensure the float arm is oriented correctly to avoid tangling/binding. Rotate the module so its locating tabs align with the slot in the tank opening.
   • Place the lubricated new O-ring seal evenly into its groove on the pump module neck or onto the tank recess (per its design).
   • Carefully seat the module assembly fully down into the tank. You may need to press firmly against spring tension.
   • Thread the large plastic locking ring back on CLOCKWISE (Righty-Tighty). Hand-tighten first, ensuring it sits level. Tap it firmly all the way around using your punch/tool until it is COMPLETELY SEATED. This requires force. Proper seating is vital for no leaks. Double-check.
5. Reassemble Tank:
   • Carefully raise the tank back up smoothly using the jack, guiding hoses/lines to avoid kinking. Ensure the tank is correctly positioned.
   • Reinstall the two tank strap assemblies. CRITICAL: Torque the J-bolt nuts according to your service manual specification (typically around 35-40 lb-ft). Overtightening cracks the plastic tank, undertightening is dangerous. Use a torque wrench.
   • Reconnect the fuel lines using the disconnect tools in reverse: align, push line firmly onto fitting until it clicks/snaps into place. Gently tug to confirm it's locked. DO NOT force without the tool.
   • Reconnect the EVAP lines.
   • Reconnect all electrical connectors firmly (main pump power, fuel level sender). Double-check. Route wires neatly away from straps/exhaust. Secure clips.
   • Reinstall any underbody shields/panels.
6. Final Steps & Testing:
   • Slowly and carefully refill the tank with at least 3-4 gallons of fresh gasoline. Monitor the new module area immediately for ANY fuel leaks. Listen and smell closely. Stop immediately and investigate if any leak is detected.
   • While still under the car (safely!), have an assistant cycle the ignition key to "Run" (battery still disconnected). You can check for leaks at the pump seal briefly (fuel lines pressurized). Use mirror if needed. Leak here = STOP.
   • If no leaks detected:
     • Reconnect the negative battery cable.
     • Cycle the ignition key to "Run" and listen for the pump to prime for 2-3 seconds. Listen. You should clearly hear the new pump operate. Repeat 2-3 times.
     • Visually inspect under car/at pump seal for leaks during priming. Fix immediately if leak found.
     • Start the Engine: It may crank slightly longer initially as system primes. Watch for leaks at the rail Schrader valve and all connection points. Let engine idle, warm up. Re-check for leaks one final time.
     • Take a test drive locally at first. Accelerate firmly to ensure no hesitation/stalling. Pay attention to gauge behavior (fuel level should now read accurately). Replace the fuel filter now if you didn't during pump access.
     • Clear Stored Codes: Use an OBDII scanner to clear any stored Check Engine Light codes related to lean conditions or misfires triggered by the failing pump. Drive a cycle to ensure no new, relevant codes return.

Choosing the Right Replacement Part: Quality Matters

The market is flooded with fuel pump options. Reliability and longevity depend heavily on part quality.

• OEM Supplier Parts (Highly Recommended): Original Equipment Manufacturer suppliers like ACDelco (GM Genuine Parts) manufactured the original pump. The correct part number for the 2004 LeSabre is typically ACDelco MU174 (this is the full module assembly). Benefits:
  • Guaranteed fit, form, and function.
  • Matches OE specifications precisely (pressure, flow, current draw).
  • Highest quality materials and construction for longevity. Uses better windings, bearings, and motor components.
  • Best chance of avoiding premature repeat failure. Worth the extra investment.
• Premium Aftermarket Brands: Brands like Carter, Bosch, Delphi often manufacture pumps that meet or exceed OE specifications. Look for their "Direct OE Replacement" level parts. Bosch offers some excellent options. Confirm the specific model fits 2004 LeSabre. Quality approaches ACDelco.
• Budget Aftermarket/Economy Pumps: Found at discount retailers. AVOID THESE FOR FUEL PUMPS. They represent a significant false economy:
  • Inferior materials (brushes, bearings, commutator, windings).
  • Lower flow/pressure ratings.
  • Unreliable sending units (gauge issues).
  • Higher risk of premature failure (sometimes within months or thousands of miles).
  • Potential compatibility/connection issues.
  • Lack of rigorous testing. Save money elsewhere – don't skimp here.
• Confirming Fitment: Always double-check the application guide:
  • Year: 2004
  • Make: Buick
  • Model: LeSabre
  • Engine Size: 3.8L V6
  • Optional Features: Specify U.L.S. (Ultra Low Sulfur) fuel compatibility if listed, though all modern pumps comply.
• What's Included: Purchase the complete module assembly whenever possible, especially for DIY. It includes the pump, strainer/sock, fuel level sending unit, mounting hardware, and a new tank seal/O-ring. Avoid just the bare pump unless you are experienced rebuilding modules.

Professional Replacement: When to Choose It

This repair demands skill, specialized tools, and significant safety precautions. Hiring a qualified technician is often the best decision:

• Lack of Tools/Experience: No safe way to lift the car, relieve pressure, disconnect lines, or drain the tank? Attempting without essential tools and know-how is dangerous and risks costly mistakes (damaged tank, leaks, stripped fittings, wiring issues).
• Safety Concerns: The inherent fire hazard of handling large volumes of gasoline is not trivial. Professionals have dedicated lifts, spark-proof environments, safety equipment, and spill containment procedures.
• Dealing with a Full Tank: Draining a full tank safely at home without specialized equipment is extremely difficult and hazardous.
• Complex Diagnostics: If the root cause isn't absolutely clear (e.g., suspect relay, wiring harness fault vs. pump), a shop's diagnostic capabilities are invaluable.
• Time & Convenience: The job typically takes a qualified shop 2.5 to 4+ hours plus part time. This represents a significant amount of DIY time under a car. Access, logistics, and cleanup add more.
• Warranty: Reputable shops offer labor warranty on the installation, providing peace of mind.
• Cost Expectations: The total cost will include the part (emphasize a quality pump like ACDelco to them!) and labor. Expect total cost including a quality pump to be $600-$1000+ depending on labor rates and part choice.

Preventing Premature Fuel Pump Failure

Extend the life of your new (or existing) fuel pump significantly:

1. Never Drive Regularly on "E": Keep your tank at least 1/4 full consistently, aiming for 1/2 tank most of the time. Gasoline cools the pump motor. Consistently low levels lead to overheating and drastically shorten lifespan. Make this a habit!
2. Use Quality Fuel: Purchase gasoline from reputable, high-volume stations. This minimizes exposure to sediment, water, and substandard additives. Buying from a consistently busy station helps ensure fuel turnover and freshness.
3. Change the Fuel Filter: Replace the in-line fuel filter according to your owner's manual schedule (typically every 20,000-40,000 miles). A clogged filter forces the pump to work harder, increasing heat and wear. Always replace this when replacing the fuel pump.
4. Avoid "Miracle in a Bottle" Fuel Additives: While some quality injector cleaners can be used periodically (like Top Tier detergent gasoline certified), many aggressive fuel system cleaners, especially those making bold claims, can damage pump components or dissolve protective varnishes in marginal ways. Stick to established brands sparingly or trust Top Tier fuel.
5. Address Charging System Issues: Fix battery or alternator problems promptly. Low system voltage strains the pump motor. Corroded battery cables can cause similar issues.

Common Questions Addressed

• Q: I only hear my pump running for 1 second now. Is it failing?
  • A: It should run 2-3 seconds on key cycle. While not definitive failure, it’s a potential sign of issues (failing relay, restricted fuel, early pump wear).
• Q: My mechanic recommended replacing the fuel filter first for my hesitation issues. Is that right?
  • A: Absolutely. A clogged filter is cheaper and easier to replace and causes symptoms almost identical to a weak pump. Always replace the filter before diagnosing the pump as bad, unless you have definitive testing showing pump output failure even with a potential filter restriction bypassed during testing.
• Q: If I change my pump, will it solve my fluctuating fuel gauge issue?
  • A: Only if the gauge problem was due to a faulty fuel level sending unit inside the module assembly. Since a new assembly includes this unit, yes, it will fix it if that was the cause. However, gauge issues can also stem from instrument cluster problems or wiring harness faults.
• Q: Can I fix a noisy pump without replacing it?
  • A: Sometimes a noisy pump will last a surprisingly long time. However, the noise usually indicates significant internal wear. Replacing it is the only reliable fix. Driving is a calculated risk of eventual failure.
• Q: Why is my new pump failing? I replaced it last year.
  • A: Failure within a year almost always points to:
    • Installation of a very low-quality "economy" pump.
    • A persistently clogged fuel filter left unchanged, destroying the new pump.
    • Contamination in the tank (rust, debris) not cleaned out properly during replacement.
    • Severe electrical issues (bad relay, faulty wiring harness causing over/under voltage).

Conclusion: Prioritize Prevention & Quality

The fuel pump is the indispensable core of your 2004 Buick LeSabre's ability to run. Recognizing the critical early warning signs of failure like hard starting when warm, loss of power under load, or unusual buzzing noises enables proactive replacement before a catastrophic no-start. Diagnosing accurately through voltage checks, relay swaps, and especially fuel pressure testing is vital to avoid costly misdiagnosis. When replacement becomes necessary, investing in a high-quality module assembly like the ACDelco MU174, whether undertaking the demanding DIY process with strict adherence to safety protocols or entrusting the task to a professional technician, ensures lasting reliability. Simple preventative measures, chiefly maintaining adequate fuel levels and regularly changing the fuel filter, can substantially extend the service life of this vital and costly component. Ignoring a failing fuel pump inevitably leads to a preventable breakdown.