2010 Ford F-150 Fuel Pump Fuse: Location, Symptoms, Testing, & Fix

The fuel pump fuse in your 2010 Ford F-150 is a 20 Amp Mini fuse, located in Position 13 of the passenger compartment fuse panel. If your truck cranks but won't start, or sputters and dies under load, a blown fuel pump fuse is a critical first component to check. Understanding its location, function, how to test it, and what causes it to blow is essential for diagnosing and resolving common fuel delivery problems in your 10th-generation F-150.

Why the Fuel Pump Fuse Matters So Much

The fuel pump is the heart of your F-150's fuel delivery system. It draws gasoline from the tank and pressurizes it, sending it to the fuel rail and injectors. Without consistent fuel pressure, your engine simply cannot run. The fuel pump fuse is a deliberate weak link in the electrical circuit powering the pump. Its primary function is protection. If an electrical overload happens – like a short circuit, a failing pump drawing excessive current, or damaged wiring – the fuse is designed to sacrifice itself ("blow") by melting a thin internal metal strip. This immediate action cuts power to the pump circuit, preventing potential damage to the pump motor itself, the wiring harness, or, crucially, reducing the risk of an electrical fire. While a blown fuse stops your truck, it's a crucial safety feature.

Symptoms of a Blown Fuel Pump Fuse in Your 2010 F-150

When the fuel pump fuse blows, the primary symptom is a loss of fuel delivery, manifesting in several clear ways:

  1. Engine Cranks But Won't Start: This is the most common and definitive sign. The starter motor spins the engine normally (you hear the cranking sound), but the engine never catches and starts running. This happens because there's no fuel reaching the cylinders to ignite.
  2. Engine Sputters Then Dies While Driving: If the fuse blows while driving, the engine will typically lose power abruptly and stall. You might experience sputtering or bucking for a few seconds as the remaining fuel pressure in the lines is depleted.
  3. Complete Silence at Key-On: Before cranking, when you turn the ignition key to the "ON" position (but not "START"), you should hear a distinct humming or whirring sound for 2-3 seconds coming from the rear of the truck (the fuel tank area). This is the fuel pump priming the system. If you hear nothing during this key-on phase, a blown fuse (or a failed pump or relay) is highly likely.
  4. No Fuel Pressure: The definitive diagnostic test involves checking fuel pressure at the Schrader valve (test port) on the fuel rail. Zero pressure points directly to a fuel delivery failure – fuse, relay, or pump.

Locating the Fuel Pump Fuse (2010 F-150)

The 2010 F-150 has two primary fuse panels. The fuel pump fuse is located in the passenger compartment fuse panel, also known as the interior fuse panel or SJB (Smart Junction Box). It is NOT under the hood.

  1. Find the Passenger Compartment Fuse Panel: Open the front passenger door. Look down at the side of the dashboard, beside and slightly to the right of the glove box, near the lower carpet kick panel area. You will see a rectangular plastic cover, roughly 10-12 inches long.
  2. Remove the Fuse Panel Cover: Pull the cover straight off towards you. It may require some firm pressure but shouldn't need tools. Set the cover aside safely. Inside the panel, you'll see rows of fuses and relays. Locate the fuse layout diagram printed inside the cover or on a label affixed within the panel itself. If missing, find an accurate diagram online or in your owner's manual.
  3. Identify Fuse Position 13: Look for the fuse labeled #13 on the diagram. In the 2010 F-150, this position is consistently designated for the Fuel Pump Driver Module (FPDM) / Fuel Pump circuit. Its rating is 20 Amps (20A).
  4. Visual Identification: Fuse #13 uses the Mini (ATM) blade fuse style. Look for a 20A fuse – its plastic body will be yellow, following the standard automotive color code (Yellow = 20A). Carefully examine the tiny metal strip visible inside the clear plastic top of the fuse. A blown fuse will have a visibly broken or melted metal strip.

How to Test the Fuel Pump Fuse (Visual & Multimeter)

Never replace parts based on guesswork. Verifying the fuse is crucial:

  1. Visual Inspection (Recommended First Step):

    • Turn the ignition OFF. Ensure the key is removed.
    • Locate fuse #13 as described above.
    • Examine the fuse through its clear plastic top under good light. Check the thin metal wire or strip running between the two blade terminals.
    • Good Fuse: The metal strip will be intact and continuous.
    • Blown Fuse: The metal strip will be visibly broken (separated), melted, or discolored (blackened). Caution: A very fine break can sometimes be hard to see; if in doubt, test electrically.

  2. Electrical Testing with a Multimeter:

    • Set your multimeter to measure Ohms (Ω - resistance) or to the continuity setting (often symbolized by a speaker or diode icon that beeps).
    • Turn the ignition OFF and remove the fuse from its slot. Use fuse pullers (often included in the fuse box cover or panel) or needle-nose pliers carefully.
    • Touch one multimeter probe to each of the metal blades on the fuse.
    • Good Fuse: You will get a very low resistance reading (close to 0 Ohms) or hear a continuous beep (on continuity setting). This confirms an unbroken path.
    • Blown Fuse: You will get an infinite resistance reading (often "OL" on digital meters) or hear no beep. This confirms an open circuit – the fuse is blown.

How to Replace a Blown Fuel Pump Fuse

Once confirmed blown:

  1. Obtain the Correct Replacement: Purchase a 20 Amp (20A), Mini (ATM) blade fuse. Crucially, it must be rated at 20 Amps. Never install a fuse with a higher amperage rating! Using a higher-rated fuse removes the protective function and creates a serious fire hazard. Keep spare fuses in your vehicle.
  2. Ensure Ignition is OFF: Key removed from the ignition switch.
  3. Install the New Fuse: Align the new 20A fuse correctly with the blades matching the slot orientation. Push it firmly but gently straight down into position #13 until it seats fully.
  4. Reassemble: Carefully place the fuse box cover back on, ensuring all clips engage.
  5. Test Operation: Turn the ignition key to ON (do not start yet). Listen carefully for the 2-3 second fuel pump prime/hum from the rear. If you hear it, try starting the engine. If it starts and runs, you've fixed the immediate issue. However, a fuse doesn't blow without cause.

What Causes the Fuel Pump Fuse to Blow?

Simply replacing the fuse is often a temporary fix if the underlying problem isn't addressed. Common causes include:

  1. Aging or Failing Fuel Pump: This is the most frequent culprit. As fuel pumps near the end of their service life (often 150k+ miles, but varies), their electric motors can draw excessive current (amps), overloading the circuit and blowing the fuse. The fuse might blow intermittently at first, then more frequently until it blows consistently shortly after replacement. If a new fuse blows quickly after replacement, this points strongly to the pump.
  2. Chafed or Damaged Wiring: Wires can wear through their insulation where they pass through the frame, body panels, or near the fuel tank. Exposed copper wires can short circuit against the metal chassis, causing a massive current surge that instantly blows the fuse. Damage can occur from road debris, improper repairs, or corrosion.
  3. Shorted Fuel Pump Connector or Harness: Corrosion or moisture intrusion in the wiring harness connector at the fuel pump (located on top of the tank) can cause a short circuit. Damaged wiring between the fuse box and the pump falls into this category.
  4. Failed Fuel Pump Relay: While less common for causing the fuse to blow immediately, a stuck-closed relay could theoretically keep the pump running constantly when it shouldn't, potentially contributing to overheating and higher current draw over time, though typically a bad relay causes a "no power" situation like a blown fuse without blowing the fuse itself. Testing the relay is still a good step.
  5. Severe Electrical Faults: Issues elsewhere in the vehicle's electrical system causing voltage spikes or complex short circuits could potentially impact the fuse, though the fuse box is designed to isolate circuits. This is less typical for a single fuse blowing repeatedly.

Important Considerations & What to Do After Replacement

  1. Diagnose the Root Cause: If a new fuel pump fuse blows immediately or very soon after replacement, DO NOT CONTINUE REPLACING FUSES. The underlying issue is still present and presents a fire hazard. You must diagnose the cause – most likely a failing fuel pump or a wiring short.
  2. Check the Fuel Pump Relay: It lives in the same passenger compartment fuse panel (check diagram for its location, often #43 or similar). Listen for its click when turning the key to ON (a helper helps). Swap it temporarily with another identical relay (like the horn or blower relay) and see if the problem moves. A failed relay can prevent power but usually doesn't blow the fuse alone.
  3. Listen for the Pump Prime: Always listen for the pump prime (key ON) after fuse replacement or when diagnosing. No sound suggests a lack of power (fuse, relay, wiring) or a dead pump.
  4. Professional Diagnosis: Diagnosing a short circuit or confirming a failing pump often requires specific tools and expertise beyond fuse replacement, especially due to the fuel tank access. Consider professional diagnostics, especially if the fuse blows again. Explain the history to the technician.
  5. Owner's Manual: Always consult your specific 2010 F-150's owner's manual for the most accurate fuse panel diagram and vehicle-specific information.
  6. Safety: Working with automotive electrical systems requires caution. Disconnect the negative battery terminal before probing or handling wiring extensively. Avoid sparks near the fuel tank or fumes.

Conclusion: Start Here When Your 2010 F-150 Has Fuel Delivery Problems

A blown 20A fuel pump fuse in slot #13 of the passenger compartment fuse panel is a common, relatively easy-to-check culprit when your 2010 Ford F-150 cranks but won't start or suddenly stalls. Verifying its condition through visual inspection or with a multimeter is a critical first diagnostic step. Replacing it is straightforward – if the fuse blew due to a transient issue or age. However, remember that a fuse blow is a symptom, usually triggered by a problem like a failing fuel pump or a short in the wiring. If a new fuse blows again quickly, stop replacement and investigate the underlying cause systematically or seek professional help. Knowing where the fuse is, how to test it, and what to expect afterward empowers you to tackle this common issue efficiently and safely.

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