2011 Toyota Camry Fuel Pump Relay Location: Find, Test & Replace It Fast

The fuel pump relay in your 2011 Toyota Camry is located inside the main under-hood fuse box (the engine compartment junction block), specifically in position R5.

This simple answer solves the immediate search intent behind the query "2011 toyota camry fuel pump relay location". Finding this vital relay quickly is essential when diagnosing potential fuel delivery problems like a car that cranks but won't start. Below, we break down exactly where to look, how to identify it, test it, and replace it if necessary.

Understanding Your 2011 Camry's Main Fuse Box

  1. Location: Engine Compartment: Pop open your Camry's hood. Look toward the driver's side, near the front of the engine bay. You will see a rectangular or square black plastic box. This is the primary fuse and relay center, often called the Engine Compartment Fuse Block or Junction Block.
  2. Accessing the Box: To see the fuses and relays inside, you need to open the lid. Locate the latches or clips (usually on the sides or front) and release them. Lift the lid upwards. It might be tethered to the box itself. Secure it out of your way.
  3. Finding the Diagram: Mounted on the underside of the fuse box lid is a crucial chart. This diagram lists every fuse and relay in the box by number and function. Always consult this diagram first for confirmation, as fuse box layouts can sometimes vary slightly between models or years. The relay positions have labels like "R1", "R2", etc.

Identifying the Fuel Pump Relay in Position R5

  1. Look for Slot R5: Inside the fuse box, find the area labeled "R" for relays. Scan for the relay position numbered "R5". Refer to the diagram on the lid to be absolutely certain you're looking at the correct slot. The diagram will explicitly say which component R5 controls – in this case, the Fuel Pump or Fuel Pump Relay.
  2. Visual Recognition: Relays are distinct from smaller fuses. They are typically:
    • Cube-Shaped: Roughly the size of a matchbox or slightly larger.
    • Black Plastic Housing: The most common color for Toyota relays in this era.
    • Electrical Terminals: You will see 4 or 5 metal prongs (terminals) extending from the bottom, plugged into sockets in the fuse box.
    • Markings: The relay housing should also have specific identifying numbers. While these vary slightly, common Toyota part numbers for the fuel pump relay include 28300-XXXXX (where XXXXX denotes specific suffixes). Look for these numbers near the base or on top.
    • Amperage Rating: It is usually a 25 AMP relay. This is another good confirmation marker. (Check the diagram or top of the relay).

Symptoms of a Failing 2011 Camry Fuel Pump Relay

Understanding why you might need to find and test this relay is key. A failing or failed fuel pump relay exhibits predictable symptoms:

  1. Cranks But No Start: The classic sign. The engine turns over strongly when you turn the key, but it never fires up. This is because the fuel pump isn't receiving the power command from the relay to pressurize the fuel line.
  2. Engine Stalls Unexpectedly: The relay might work intermittently. Your Camry could be running fine, then suddenly shut off as if you turned the key off, especially when coming to a stop or hitting a bump (though bumps are less common for relay failure than pump failure).
  3. No Fuel Pump Prime Noise: When you first turn the ignition key to the "ON" position (without cranking the engine), you should hear a faint whirring or humming sound for about 1-3 seconds coming from the rear seat area (where the fuel pump is). This is the fuel pump priming the system. If you consistently hear NO priming sound when the relay is suspect, it points strongly to a power issue at the pump, often the relay or fuse.
  4. Intermittent Starting Problems: The car might start fine one time, then fail to start the next. Or it might start after several attempts, suggesting the relay contacts are damaged or burnt but occasionally making contact.

How to Test the 2011 Camry Fuel Pump Relay

Before replacing a relay, it's wise to test it. You have two practical options:

  • Option 1: The Swap Test (Simplest for Most Owners)

    1. Locate the Fuel Pump Relay (R5) as described above.
    2. Identify Another Identical Relay: Look at the fuse box diagram and find another relay nearby that has the exact same part number and amp rating as your suspected fuel pump relay. Common candidates include relays for circuits like Horn (R2), Starter (R1), Fog Lights, or Blower Motor – use the diagram! The Horn relay is often a good match.
    3. Safely Remove Both Relays: Turn the ignition OFF. Firmly grasp each relay and pull it straight up out of its socket. Always pull relays straight out to avoid bending the terminals.
    4. Swap Them: Plug the relay from the known good circuit (like Horn) into the Fuel Pump relay socket (R5). Plug the suspected fuel pump relay into the known good socket (e.g., Horn).
    5. Test Functionality:
      • Attempt to start the car. If the car now starts normally, your original Fuel Pump relay (now in the Horn socket) is likely faulty.
      • Test the swapped circuit (e.g., press the Horn). If the horn doesn't work and the relay you swapped in (the suspected one) is now in the horn socket, that confirms the relay is bad. If the horn does work with the original fuel pump relay plugged into its socket, then the fuel pump relay might actually be okay (and your problem could be elsewhere like the fuel pump fuse or pump itself).
    6. Replacement Decision: If the car started after the swap or the swapped circuit stopped working with the original relay, replace the relay.

  • Option 2: Multimeter Testing (Requires Basic Tools)
    You can verify the relay's internal function with a digital multimeter. This requires knowing the relay terminal layout.

    1. Locate Relay Terminal Layout: Look on the side of the relay housing. You should see a small internal schematic diagram molded into the plastic. It will show the internal coil and switch contacts with labeled terminals (e.g., 85, 86, 30, 87, 87a). If not on the relay, find the exact relay terminal specification online for your Camry's model.
    2. Set Up Multimeter: Set your digital multimeter to measure resistance (Ohms, Ω).
    3. Test Coil:
      • Identify the two terminals for the coil (often 85 and 86).
      • Touch one meter probe to terminal 85 and the other to terminal 86.
      • A reading typically between 50Ω and 150Ω indicates the coil is intact. An infinite resistance reading (OL or 1) means the coil is open and the relay is dead. A reading near 0Ω indicates a shorted coil.
    4. Test Switch Contacts (Normally Open):
      • Identify the common terminal (30) and the normally open contact terminal (87). (Ignore the normally closed terminal 87a for fuel pump relay testing).
      • Touch one meter probe to terminal 30 and the other to terminal 87.
      • With Relay OFF: The meter should read infinite resistance (OL or 1), meaning no continuity. The switch is open.
      • Energize the Coil: Apply 12V to the coil terminals 85 and 86. Use fused jumper wires from the car battery or a small 9V/12V power source. YOU MUST ENERGIZE THE COIL FOR THIS TEST. Be careful not to short anything.
      • With Relay Energized: Touch the probes to terminals 30 and 87 again. The meter should now show very low resistance (near 0Ω), meaning continuity. The relay click should usually be audible when you energize the coil.
    5. Interpretation: If the coil resistance is bad, OR if the switch contacts do not show continuity (low Ω) when the coil is powered (or DO show continuity when unpowered), the relay is faulty and should be replaced.

Replacing the Faulty Fuel Pump Relay

  1. Purchase the Correct Part: Obtain a replacement relay. Use the original relay's Toyota part number (found on its housing) or confirm at a parts store the relay fits a 2011 Toyota Camry. Using a genuine Toyota relay (28300-XXXXX) or a high-quality replacement from Denso (Toyota's main supplier), Bosch, or standard auto parts brands is recommended. They are inexpensive. Verify the AMP rating matches.
  2. Turn Ignition OFF: Ensure the ignition key is removed.
  3. Locate and Remove: Go back to the under-hood fuse box and find relay R5. Firmly grasp it and pull it straight up out of its socket.
  4. Insert New Relay: Take the exact same type of new relay. Orient it so the terminals line up with the holes in the socket. There is usually a keying tab to ensure it only goes in one way. Push it firmly and straight down until it seats completely.
  5. Test: Turn the ignition key to "ON" and listen for the fuel pump to prime for 1-3 seconds. Then, attempt to start the engine.
  6. Securely Close Fuse Box: If successful, push the fuse box lid back down firmly until the latches or clips securely engage. Shut the hood.

Troubleshooting: When Relay Replacement Doesn't Fix It

If replacing the relay with a confirmed good one does not solve your starting problem, the issue lies elsewhere in the fuel or ignition system. Proceed with further diagnosis:

  1. Check Relevant Fuse: Locate the fuse associated with the fuel pump circuit using the fuse box diagram (also inside the under-hood box lid). For the 2011 Camry, this is usually the "EFI" fuse or "Fuel Pump" fuse (typically labeled "FUEL PUMP" or "EFI/INJ" on the diagram), often rated between 15A to 25A. Visually inspect the fuse filament inside the clear plastic top for a break. Test it with a multimeter for continuity or swap it for a known good fuse of the same amperage.
  2. Listen for Fuel Pump: Have an assistant turn the ignition to "ON" (not start) while you listen near the rear seat. Can you hear the fuel pump running for 1-3 seconds? No sound points to an electrical issue before the pump (like fuse, relay, wiring, or pump ground). Hearing the pump strongly indicates the relay did its job, and you need to check fuel pressure or injector issues.
  3. Consider the Fuel Pump Itself: Fuel pumps do wear out over time. If power is reaching the pump (test point near pump connector shows 12V during cranking or prime), but no sound or pressure, the pump motor may be dead.
  4. Inspect Wiring: Look for obvious damage to wires leading from the fuse box to the rear fuel pump area. Check for loose or corroded connections, especially at the relay socket and the pump connector.
  5. ECM Control: The relay is actually activated by a command from the Engine Control Module (ECM). If the ECM loses key security signal or crankshaft position signal, it won't activate the fuel pump relay. This is less common than relay or fuse failure but becomes a possibility.
  6. Inertia Shut-off Switch: While less common on this model generation, some vehicles have an inertia switch that cuts fuel pump power after an impact. Resetting it is simple if applicable (consult owner's manual).

Preventative Maintenance & Tips

  1. Use Quality Parts: Stick with Denso, Toyota genuine, or Bosch relays for longevity.
  2. Keep Lid Secured: Always ensure the fuse box lid is properly latched to prevent water ingress causing relay corrosion.
  3. Visual Inspection: Periodically checking that fuses and relays look intact during routine maintenance is wise.
  4. Carry a Spare: Relays are small, cheap, and critical. Keeping the correct spare relay in your glove box is a practical idea, especially if driving longer distances. Knowing your car uses a common type often shared with Horn or other systems helps.
  5. Avoid Ignition Manipulations: Excessive repeated cranking sessions when the car won't start can overheat a failing relay or pump.

Conclusion

Pinpointing the 2011 Toyota Camry fuel pump relay location - Position R5 inside the main under-hood fuse box (engine compartment junction block) - is the first crucial step in resolving no-start or fuel-related stall scenarios. Identifying it visually or via the diagram on the fuse box lid is straightforward. The swap test with a similar relay like the Horn is often the fastest and most practical way for owners to confirm a bad relay. Replacing a faulty relay is a simple, low-cost, and quick repair. If a new, properly functioning relay doesn't solve the problem, methodically check the associated fuse (EFI/Fuel Pump), listen for the pump priming sound, and proceed to diagnose the fuel pump itself and related wiring or ECM controls. Knowing this information empowers Camry owners to efficiently tackle a common failure point.

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