2012 Town and Country Fuel Pump Relay: Location, Symptoms and Replacement Guide

The core function of the fuel pump relay in your 2012 Chrysler Town & Country is simple: it acts as an electrically controlled switch, allowing a small signal from the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) to safely turn ON and OFF the powerful electrical current needed by your vehicle's fuel pump. When this relay fails, it cuts power to the fuel pump entirely. The immediate consequence is a vehicle that will crank but absolutely will not start, as no fuel is being delivered to the engine. Diagnosing and replacing a faulty fuel pump relay in your 2012 Town & Country is typically one of the most straightforward and inexpensive repairs you can tackle yourself. Locating it within the engine compartment fuse box (TIPM) and swapping it with a known-good relay, often the horn relay, is the key first diagnostic and repair step.

Understanding the Vital Role of the Relay

Your Town & Country's fuel pump is an electrically powered component submerged inside the fuel tank. It requires significant electrical current (usually 10-15 amps or more) to generate the pressure needed to send fuel through the lines to the engine. Directly wiring the pump to a dashboard switch controlled by the driver or the PCM would be impractical and unsafe. High-current wiring running through the cabin poses fire risks, and the PCM couldn't handle the pump's electrical load directly.

This is where the fuel pump relay comes in. It's an electromagnetically operated switch:

  1. Control Circuit (Low Current): The PCM sends a small, safe ground signal (usually less than 1 amp) to one side of the relay coil when the ignition is turned ON (prime cycle) and while the engine is running. The other side of the coil has constant battery power.
  2. Coil Activation: This small current flowing through the coil creates a magnetic field.
  3. Switch Closure (High Current): The magnetic field pulls internal switch contacts together within the relay. This switch is wired between the vehicle's main battery power source and the fuel pump itself.
  4. Power Delivery: With the relay contacts closed, the full battery current can now flow through the relay and down to the fuel pump, powering it up. When the PCM removes the ground signal, the magnetic field collapses, the switch contacts open, and power to the pump is cut.

Recognizing Symptoms of a Failing Relay in Your 2012 Town & Country

A failing fuel pump relay in your minivan typically presents clear, noticeable symptoms related to the pump losing power intermittently or completely:

  1. Engine Cranks but Won't Start (No Fuel): This is the hallmark symptom. You turn the key to START. The engine cranks over strongly (the starter is working), but the engine does not fire up and run. You likely won't hear the brief whirring sound of the fuel pump priming for the initial 1-2 seconds when you first turn the ignition ON (before cranking). This is a primary indicator of power loss to the pump, often relay-related.
  2. Intermittent Starting Problems / Stalling: A relay on its way out can work sometimes and not others. This randomness is very frustrating. You might encounter:
    • The engine starts perfectly one time, then cranks but won't start the next time you try.
    • The vehicle starts but then stalls unexpectedly shortly after starting or while driving, especially when coming to a stop, as the PCM cycles the relay off during idle conditions. It may or may not restart immediately.
    • Problems might be more frequent in hot weather or after the engine compartment has heated up.
  3. No Sound from the Fuel Pump: During the ignition prime cycle (key turned to ON, engine not cranking), a healthy pump and relay system will produce a distinct humming or whirring sound coming from the rear of the vehicle (near the fuel tank) for about 1-2 seconds. If you consistently hear nothing during this prime cycle, it strongly points to a lack of power reaching the pump. Check the relay first. Note: Some newer pumps are quieter; if unsure, have someone else turn the key while you listen near the tank filler neck.
  4. Visible Relay Issues (Rare but Possible): If you have easy access to inspect the relay physically (often after removing the fuse box lid), look for:
    • Melting: Warped plastic casing or signs of overheating/burning on the relay body or the socket terminals.
    • Corrosion: Green or white corrosion on the metal relay pins. This can prevent a good electrical connection in the socket.
  5. Illuminated Check Engine Light (Possibly with Fuel-Related DTCs): While the PCM doesn't directly monitor the relay, a lack of fuel pressure resulting from relay failure (or a bad pump) can trigger diagnostic trouble codes (DTCs). Common codes include:
    • P0087: Fuel Rail/System Pressure Too Low.
    • P0230: Fuel Pump Primary Circuit Malfunction (This often indicates an issue in the circuit controlling the pump, which includes the relay and wiring from the relay to the fuse and then to the pump).
    • P0627: Fuel Pump "A" Control Circuit/Open (Indicates an open circuit in the control side, including relays, wiring, or PCM).
    • P069E: Fuel Pump Control Module Requested MIL Illumination (If equipped with a separate control module, which the 2012 Town & Country typically isn't; this might point more to the PCM relay issue below).

Crucial: Don't Confuse it with the PCM Relay!

The 2012 Town & Country has another critical relay known as the PCM Relay, Auto Shutdown (ASD) Relay, or sometimes the Engine Computer/Fuel Injector Relay (names can vary). This relay is distinct from the fuel pump relay and is almost always located in the same fuse box. This relay controls power to the fuel injectors, the ignition coils, and often also powers the fuel pump relay's control coil circuit. Therefore:

  • A failed PCM/ASD relay will prevent power from reaching the coils, injectors, and likely prevent the fuel pump relay from being energized by the PCM. This will also cause a crank/no-start, but you'll be missing spark and injector pulse as well.
  • A failed fuel pump relay only prevents power from reaching the fuel pump. The coils and injectors will usually still have power (if the ASD relay is working), so the engine might sputter slightly or attempt to start momentarily on residual fuel pressure if you just turned the key from OFF to START quickly.

When diagnosing a crank/no-start:

  1. Check for Spark: Remove a spark plug wire/coil boot and use a spark tester. No spark points strongly to the PCM/ASD relay or ignition components.
  2. Check for Injector Pulse: Use a noid light or scan tool data. No pulse also points to PCM/ASD relay or PCM issues.
  3. Listen for Fuel Pump Prime: No prime sound with spark and injector pulse present strongly indicates the fuel pump relay, fuse, wiring, or pump itself.

Locating the Fuel Pump Relay in the 2012 Town & Country

For the 2012 model year, the fuel pump relay is housed within the engine compartment fuse box. This box is more formally known as the Total Integrated Power Module (TIPM). Here's how to find it:

  1. Open the Hood: Secure it with the prop rod.
  2. Find the TIPM: Look on the driver's side of the engine compartment, near the battery. The TIPM is a large, rectangular, predominantly black plastic box with a lid secured by clips or small latches. It contains most of the vehicle's fuses and relays.
  3. Open the TIPM Lid: Release the securing clips (usually squeeze or flip upwards) and lift off the cover.
  4. Identify the Relays: Inside the lid or stamped/printed on the TIPM housing itself will be a diagram showing the location and function of each relay position and fuse slot. Study this diagram carefully.

The exact position of the fuel pump relay within the TIPM can vary slightly by model year and trim, but for the 2012 Town & Country:

  • Commonly: It is often found in the position labeled "Fuel Pump", "FP", "Fuel Pump Relay", or similar. On some TIPMs, this relay is sometimes grouped with other powertrain relays near the battery side.
  • Backup Identification Method (If Diagram is Missing/Unclear): Locate the Horn Relay. The horn circuit is relatively low-stress and often uses the exact same relay type (ISO mini/micro relay) as the fuel pump relay. Chrysler frequently places the fuel pump relay in the position next to the horn relay. Check the diagram – if Horn is position R1, Fuel Pump might be R2 or a nearby number. NEVER remove or swap a relay without confirming its function from the diagram first.
  • Visual Confirmation: Most relays in the box are standard black plastic cubes with 4 or 5 pins on the bottom. The fuel pump relay looks identical to several other relays (like horn, PCM relay, radiator fan relay).

Step-by-Step Guide: Diagnosis and Replacement (Swapping Method)

This is the simplest and most common method to confirm a bad fuel pump relay:

  1. Gather Supplies: Replacement ISO Micro Relay (Part number is often stamped on the relay: e.g., 56027871AB, 68302249AA, Ry289, etc. - buy one specific for your vehicle, readily available at auto parts stores - bring your old one to match). Protective gloves (optional, but prevents dirty contacts).
  2. Preparation:
    • Turn the ignition OFF and remove the key.
    • Disconnect the Negative (-) Terminal of the vehicle's battery. This eliminates any risk of short circuits.
  3. Access the TIPM: Open the hood, locate the engine compartment TIPM near the battery, and carefully remove its lid using the clips/latches.
  4. Identify Relays: Consult the diagram on the lid or TIPM housing. Positively identify:
    • Fuel Pump Relay: Based on the diagram. Note its physical location.
    • Horn Relay: Based on the diagram. Choose this because it typically uses the same relay type and is a non-critical circuit. Confirm it's the horn relay on the diagram.
  5. Remove Known Good Relay: Firmly grasp the horn relay and pull it straight up and out of its socket. Wiggle gently side-to-side if it feels stuck. Place it aside safely.
  6. Remove Suspect Relay: Firmly grasp the fuel pump relay and pull it straight up and out. Place it aside.
  7. Swap and Test: Take the relay you just removed from the horn position (the known good relay unless the horn doesn't work) and insert it firmly into the fuel pump relay socket. Push down until it clicks into place. Ensure it's fully seated.
  8. Reconnect Battery: Reattach the Negative battery terminal. Securely tighten the clamp.
  9. Test the Horn: Press the horn button. If the horn does NOT sound: This could mean two things: 1) The horn circuit itself has an issue (fuse, horn switch, wiring, the horn itself), meaning the relay you just used might not actually be good. Or 2) You might have misidentified the horn relay originally. If the horn DOES sound: Proceed to step 10.
  10. Ignition Prime Test: Turn the ignition key to the ON position (RUN, but don't crank). Listen carefully near the rear bumper/fuel filler area. You should now hear the fuel pump whirr for 1-2 seconds. If you hear it now, but didn't before the swap, it confirms the original fuel pump relay was faulty. If you still hear nothing, the problem lies elsewhere (fuse, wiring, pump itself, PCM signal).
  11. Starting Test: If the pump primed, attempt to start the engine. If the engine starts and runs normally, the diagnosis is complete: the fuel pump relay was the culprit.
  12. Replace Horn Relay & Install New Relay:
    • Turn ignition OFF.
    • Disconnect the Negative battery terminal again.
    • Remove the known good horn relay from the fuel pump socket.
    • Insert your new fuel pump relay firmly into the fuel pump relay socket. Click into place.
    • Reinsert the horn relay back into its original horn socket. Click into place.
    • Reconnect the Negative battery terminal.
    • Test the horn to ensure it still works.
    • Test the fuel pump prime and vehicle start to confirm the repair.
  13. Secure TIPM: Replace the TIPM lid securely, latching all clips.
  14. Discard Old Relay: Get rid of the faulty relay.
  15. Clear DTCs: If the Check Engine Light was illuminated, it may take a few drive cycles to turn off on its own, or you can use an OBD-II scanner to clear the codes after confirming the repair fixed the issue.

Advanced Diagnosis (If Swap Doesn't Confirm Failure)

If the relay swap didn't restore fuel pump operation (no prime sound, engine still won't start), further diagnosis is needed:

  1. Check the Fuel Pump Fuse: Even though you suspect the relay, always verify the main power fuse for the pump. It protects the high-current circuit feeding the pump through the relay's closed contacts. In the TIPM, find the fuse labeled "Fuel Pump", "FP", or similar (consult diagram). Remove it visually. If the thin metal strip inside is broken, the fuse is blown. Replace it with one of the exact same amperage rating (e.g., 20A). Important: If the fuse blows again immediately after replacement, there is a significant short circuit in the wiring between the fuse and the pump or within the pump itself – address this immediately.
  2. Inspect Relay Socket and Pins: Carefully examine both the socket in the TIPM where the fuel pump relay plugs in and the pins (metal legs) on your old relay and any swapped relays.
    • Look for Corrosion: Green/white powdery buildup on pins or inside the socket terminal slots. This prevents good contact. Clean pins with electrical contact cleaner and a small wire brush or fiberglass pen gently. Carefully clean socket terminals with contact cleaner and compressed air if possible. Avoid bending pins.
    • Look for Melting/Distortion: Blackening, bubbling, or warping of the plastic socket housing or the relay housing/pins. This indicates severe overheating and potentially damaged terminals. Socket replacement is more complex but necessary if damaged.
  3. Electrical Testing Relay: Requires a multimeter and basic electrical know-how. Ensure battery is disconnected first.
    • Coil Resistance Test (Pin 85-86): Set multimeter to resistance (Ohms Ω). Measure resistance across the coil terminals (usually pins 85 & 86). On most micro relays, this should be between 50 and 120 Ohms. An open circuit (infinite Ω) or very low resistance (nearly 0 Ω) indicates a faulty coil.
    • Contact Continuity Test (Pin 30-87): Normally Open (NO) contacts: Pin 30 (common) and Pin 87 (normally open). Set multimeter to continuity (beeps) or resistance (should be Open/∞ Ω). Apply +12V power to Pin 85 and Ground to Pin 86 (simulating PCM signal - use fused jumper wires). You should hear/feel a click. The multimeter should now show continuity/0 Ω between Pin 30 and Pin 87. Remove power; continuity should disappear/open circuit. If continuity exists without power applied, the contacts are welded shut. If no continuity occurs with power applied, the contacts are open or damaged. Testing Pin 87A for Normally Closed (NC) circuits is generally unnecessary for fuel pump relays.
  4. Power Input Test at Relay Socket: Reconnect the battery. Be very careful measuring live circuits. Set multimeter to DC Volts (20V scale).
    • Have a helper turn the ignition key to ON.
    • Confirm PCM Signal (Pin 86): Identify the Pin 86 terminal in the empty fuel pump relay socket. Place the multimeter negative probe on a good known ground (battery negative terminal, clean metal bracket). Carefully probe the Pin 86 socket terminal. You should see Battery Voltage (~12-13V). When the PCM activates the relay, it grounds Pin 85. So, Pin 86 should always have battery voltage with the key ON? Actually, wait: Pin 85 is the PCM control ground. Pin 86 should typically have constant Ignition (Run/Start) power through a fuse? Refer to wiring diagrams: In many vehicles, Pin 86 gets constant battery power through a fuse ("Hot at All Times"). However, Pin 86 can also get switched ignition power ("Hot in Run/Start")?
    • Confirm Constant Battery Power (Pin 30): Probe Pin 30 socket terminal. With key OFF or ON, this pin should always show battery voltage (~12-13V). This is the main power feed to the contacts inside the relay.
    • Confirm Power Output (Pin 87 when relay commanded ON): This is tricky without a simulated relay. If you confirmed Pin 86 voltage and Pin 30 voltage with key ON, and you suspect the relay socket, installing a known good relay and probing Pin 87 socket terminal with key ON should show battery voltage.
    • Confirm PCM Grounding Control (Pin 85 when commanded): Probe Pin 85 socket terminal. Place multimeter negative probe on battery negative. With ignition OFF: Should show ~0V or battery voltage? With ignition turned to ON: You should briefly see the voltage on Pin 85 drop to near 0V (ground) for ~1-2 seconds while the pump primes. Then it should go back high (~battery voltage) unless cranking/stalling. Requires precise multimeter watching.

Choosing a Replacement Relay

  • OEM Replacement: Order the exact part number from a Chrysler dealer (e.g., 56027871AB, 68302249AA, etc.) for guaranteed compatibility.
  • Aftermarket: Go to any major auto parts store (AutoZone, O'Reilly, Advance Auto Parts, NAPA). Take your old relay. They can match it. Common industry-standard replacement part numbers include:
    • Standard Motor Products RY289
    • BWD R3136
    • Duralast / Autocraft MR120
    • Echlin (NAPA) AR272
  • Ensure Correct Pinout: Micro ISO relays typically have standardized pin positions. As long as it physically fits and the terminal markings (85, 86, 30, 87) match your socket and the old relay, it will function correctly.

Addressing Potential TIPM Issues

The TIPM (Total Integrated Power Module) itself, which houses the relay sockets, can sometimes be the root cause of fuel pump relay problems in Town & Countrys. While less common than a simple relay failure, be aware:

  1. Intermittent/Socket Failure: As noted, damaged, corroded, or physically loose terminals within the TIPM socket can prevent the relay from making proper contact, mimicking a failed relay. Cleaning or repairing individual sockets is difficult; reflowing solder joints inside the TIPM requires specialized electronics repair skills.
  2. Complete Internal Failure: If the TIPM itself has internal circuitry faults preventing it from providing power to the relay contacts (Pin 30) or processing the PCM's command to ground Pin 85, replacing the TIPM may be necessary. This is expensive and requires reprogramming.
  3. TIPM Reset: Sometimes, corrupted settings within the TIPM can cause unexpected behavior. A "hard reset" can be tried: Disconnect the Negative battery terminal, then touch it to the Positive terminal for about 60 seconds. Wear gloves and ensure no fuel/vapors are present. This drains residual power and forces a reboot. Reconnect Negative terminal securely. This might resolve bizarre electrical gremlins but is not a cure for physical relay failure.

Preventative Measures and Best Practices

  • Keep the TIPM Clean and Dry: Ensure the fuse box lid seals properly to prevent water ingress and accumulation of road grime/debris.
  • Avoid Aftermarket Electrical Accessories: Poorly installed devices tapping power near the TIPM can overload circuits or cause interference.
  • Use Quality Replacement Relays: Stick with known brand names (Standard, BWD, Duralast, Echlin, Bosch) for better longevity. Extremely cheap relays may have inferior internal contacts.
  • Inspect During Routine Maintenance: When checking fluid levels, periodically glance inside the TIPM. Verify the fuel pump relay is fully seated. Look for any obvious signs of corrosion, melted plastic, or overheated components.

Conclusion: Regaining Power and Reliability

A failing 2012 Town and Country fuel pump relay is a common culprit behind frustrating crank/no-start scenarios. By understanding its role as the crucial electrical switch for the fuel pump, recognizing the symptoms like the absence of pump prime sound and a stalling engine, and knowing its location within the engine compartment TIPM, you have the power to diagnose it quickly. The most effective initial step is always the relay swap test using a non-essential relay like the horn relay. If the swap restores pump function, replacing the fuel pump relay with a quality aftermarket or OEM unit is a straightforward repair accessible to most DIY owners. By following the precise steps outlined – confirming the correct relay location using the TIPM diagram, using the horn relay swap method, checking the fuel pump fuse, inspecting connections, and replacing the faulty component – you can efficiently resolve this issue and get your minivan back on the road reliably. In cases where the relay swap test fails, systematic checks of fuses, wiring, the pump itself, and consideration of possible TIPM issues are the necessary next diagnostic steps. Consistent attention to the TIPM's condition aids in preventing recurring relay and electrical problems.

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