2013 Dodge Avenger Fuel Pump Relay Location & Complete Guide

The fuel pump relay for a 2013 Dodge Avenger is located inside the vehicle's Totally Integrated Power Module (TIPM). The TIPM is found under the hood, positioned near the battery on the driver's side front corner of the engine compartment. Accessing the relay requires opening the TIPM box cover.

Knowing the precise location of the fuel pump relay is crucial when your 2013 Dodge Avenger experiences symptoms pointing to potential fuel delivery problems. A faulty relay is a common culprit behind no-start conditions, sputtering, or loss of power. This detailed guide pinpoints where to find the relay and provides comprehensive steps for testing, replacing, and understanding related components for effective DIY troubleshooting.

Understanding the TIPM and Relay Function

The TIPM, or Totally Integrated Power Module, is the central hub for your Avenger's electrical distribution and control. It combines functions traditionally handled by separate fuse boxes, relays, and electronic control modules into one compact unit. It manages power distribution, protects circuits with fuses, and controls numerous vehicle functions electronically, including activating the fuel pump via a relay.

A relay is an electrically operated switch. The fuel pump relay in your Avenger uses a low-current signal from the Powertrain Control Module (PCM – the engine computer) to control the much higher current needed to power the fuel pump. When you turn the ignition key to the "ON" or "START" position, the PCM sends a signal to energize the relay coil. This closes the relay's internal contacts, completing the circuit and sending power directly from the battery (via a large fuse) to the fuel pump located inside the gas tank. Without this relay working correctly, the pump won't receive the necessary power to run.

Detailed Location: Finding the TIPM and Fuel Pump Relay

  1. Locate the TIPM Under the Hood: Pop the hood of your 2013 Dodge Avenger. Stand facing the engine compartment. Look towards the driver's side front corner. You will see the battery. Immediately adjacent to the battery (often towards the front of the vehicle or slightly inboard), you'll find a large black rectangular or square plastic box. This is the TIPM. It may have a lid secured by visible latches or clips.
  2. Open the TIPM Cover: Identify the securing mechanism for the TIPM lid. Typically, this involves pressing down on small tabs or sliding clips located around the edges of the lid. Carefully release these latches and lift off the entire lid of the TIPM. Set it aside safely.
  3. Identify the Relay Layout: With the lid removed, you'll see the interior of the TIPM. It contains numerous fuses (in various colors and amperage ratings), several identical-looking cube-shaped relays, and possibly some larger power distribution studs. Crucially, there will be a diagram printed directly onto the TIPM housing or molded into the plastic underneath where the lid sat. This diagram is essential.
  4. Locate the Specific Fuel Pump Relay Slot: Study the TIPM diagram carefully. You are looking for the designation "Fuel Pump Relay" or often abbreviations like "FP Relay," "F/PMP Relay," or sometimes just "Fuel." The diagram will show the precise position within the array of relays inside the TIPM.
  5. Identify Relay Position Number/Letter: Note that relay positions are often identified on the diagram with a number (e.g., R1, R2, R3...) or a letter/number grid position (e.g., K7, M2, etc.). Find the specific position corresponding to the fuel pump relay. This location is standardized for the 2013 Avenger.
  6. Pinpoint the Relay: Visually inspect the TIPM, matching the diagram to the actual components. Count the relay positions based on the diagram. The fuel pump relay itself is a standard cube relay, typically black or gray, with terminals on the bottom that plug into the socket. It looks identical to most other relays in the box, except for its designated position. There are no distinctive markings on the relay itself for its function – its location is the key identifier.

Why the Relay Might Fail (Symptoms and Causes)

A failing or failed fuel pump relay in your 2013 Dodge Avenger will manifest in ways similar to a failing fuel pump itself, as both prevent proper fuel delivery to the engine. Key symptoms include:

  • Engine Cranks but Won't Start: The most common sign. The starter motor works, turning the engine over, but the engine doesn't fire up because no fuel is reaching the injectors.
  • Sudden Engine Stall While Driving: The engine might abruptly cut out and refuse to restart, mimicking fuel pump failure or other electrical issues.
  • Engine Sputtering or Loss of Power: An intermittent relay problem might cause the engine to stumble, hesitate, surge, or lose power momentarily as the fuel pump cuts in and out.
  • No Fuel Pump Prime Sound: When you turn the ignition key to the "ON" position (before starting), you normally hear a brief "whirring" or "humming" sound for a few seconds from the rear (the fuel pump pressurizing the system). If this sound is absent, it points strongly to an issue with pump power (relay or pump).
  • Difficulty Starting After the Vehicle is Warm: Heat can exacerbate internal faults within an aging relay.

Common causes of fuel pump relay failure include:

  • Age and Wear: Relays have mechanical switching components (contacts) that wear out over time with repeated cycles (every time you start the car).
  • Internal Contact Corrosion or Pitting: Over time, the relay contacts can corrode or pit due to arcing when switching, leading to increased resistance or complete failure to conduct current.
  • Internal Coil Failure: The electromagnetic coil that pulls the contacts closed can fail, preventing the relay from switching at all.
  • Overheating: Exposure to excessive underhood heat can accelerate internal component degradation.
  • Voltage Spikes/Electrical Surges: Uncontrolled surges in the vehicle's electrical system can damage relay components.
  • Manufacturing Defects: Though less common, inherent weaknesses can cause premature failure.

Distinguishing a Bad Relay from a Bad Pump or Other Issues

Since symptoms overlap significantly, diagnosing the root cause is vital before replacing expensive parts like the fuel pump:

  1. Listen for the Pump Prime: Turn the ignition key to the "ON" position (don't crank the engine). Listen carefully near the rear of the car, usually around the fuel tank access under the rear seat or trunk area. A distinct 2-3 second whirring/humming confirms the pump ran. No sound? Strong indicator of a power problem (relay, fuse, wiring, or pump motor failure). Heard the sound? Problem likely lies elsewhere (injectors, ignition, compression, etc.).
  2. Check the Fuel Pump Fuse: Power to the fuel pump circuit flows through a high-amperage fuse before reaching the relay. A blown fuse prevents pump operation regardless of the relay's condition. Locate the fuse box diagram (often under the TIPM lid or in the owner's manual). Find the fuse labeled "Fuel Pump" or "F/PMP." Verify this fuse is intact using a fuse tester or visually inspecting the metal strip inside it. Replace a blown fuse. If it blows again immediately after replacement, a serious short circuit exists downstream (wiring or pump) and must be addressed.
  3. Swap the Relay (Easiest Preliminary Test): Since relays inside the TIPM are often identical, locate a non-critical relay known to be the same type (consult the diagram - common swaps are with rear window defogger relay, horn relay, or auxiliary power outlet relay). Carefully pull out the suspected fuel pump relay and the identical spare relay. Insert the spare relay into the fuel pump relay position. Turn the key to "ON" and listen for the fuel pump prime hum. If the pump now primes and the engine starts, your original relay is faulty. Replace it with a new one. Note: Only swap relays confirmed by the diagram to be identical types. If unsure, skip to dedicated testing.
  4. Formal Relay Testing:
    • Audible Click Test: With the fuel pump relay removed from its socket, have an assistant turn the ignition key to the "ON" position. Place the relay near your ear. If the relay is functioning correctly, you should hear and feel a distinct internal "click" sound at the moment the key is turned to "ON" and potentially another when turned back "OFF." This click signifies the coil inside the relay is being energized and de-energized. No click indicates a faulty coil or damaged relay. A click doesn't guarantee the contacts are good but is a first pass.
    • Multimeter Resistance Test (Coil): Set a multimeter to measure resistance (Ohms, Ω). Locate the relay's terminal markings on its side or diagram. Find the two terminals corresponding to the coil (common designations: 85 & 86). Measure resistance between these two pins. A reading within a typical range (e.g., 50-200 Ω) indicates a functioning coil. A reading of "O.L." (overload/infinite resistance) or 0 Ohms indicates a coil fault.
    • Multimeter Continuity Test (Contacts): Set the multimeter to Continuity (often accompanied by a beep symbol). Identify the relay's power input terminal (common: 30) and the switched output terminal (common: 87). With no power applied (relay at rest), there should be NO continuity (open circuit) between terminals 30 and 87. If there IS continuity when the relay is off, the contacts are welded shut – the relay is stuck ON and faulty. Apply power to pins 85 & 86 (positive to one, negative to the other – polarity often doesn't matter for the coil itself). You should now hear the click. While power is applied, check continuity between pins 30 and 87. There should be continuity (closed circuit – often the meter beeps). If not, the contacts are burnt, corroded, or failed – the relay can't switch power. Note: Relay terminal numbering (30, 85, 86, 87) is a common standard, but ALWAYS verify the specific layout printed on the relay itself or its diagram.

How to Replace the 2013 Dodge Avenger Fuel Pump Relay

Once you've confirmed a bad relay, replacement is straightforward:

  1. Purchase the Correct Relay: Obtain a direct replacement relay. Options include:
    • Dealership Parts Counter: The most guaranteed match (OEM part). Provide your VIN. Ask for the "Fuel Pump Relay."
    • Auto Parts Store: Provide vehicle details (2013 Dodge Avenger). Counter staff can look up the correct relay (usually a standard Bosch style relay). Common part numbers include 3C0903831A, 56028184AB, or generic equivalents. Compare physically to old relay before buying. Consider a trusted brand.
    • Online Retailers: Search for "2013 Dodge Avenger Fuel Pump Relay," cross-referencing part numbers above.
  2. Disconnect the Battery (Safety First): Before handling relays in the TIPM, disconnect the NEGATIVE (-) terminal of the battery. Use the correct size wrench, loosen the clamp, and move the cable away from the terminal. Secure it so it cannot accidentally touch the terminal again. This prevents potential short circuits while working.
  3. Access the TIPM: Open the hood and locate the TIPM near the battery as described earlier.
  4. Open TIPM Lid: Release the securing clips/latches and remove the TIPM cover.
  5. Locate Faulty Relay: Identify the fuel pump relay position using the diagram.
  6. Remove the Old Relay: Firmly grasp the relay. Rock it gently side-to-side if needed. Pull it straight up and out of its socket. Avoid excessive force.
  7. Install the New Relay: Orient the new relay correctly using the pin configuration as a guide. The pins will only fit one way. Press firmly down until the relay is fully seated in the socket. You should feel it click into place.
  8. Reconnect Battery: Reattach the negative battery cable to its terminal. Tighten the clamp securely.
  9. Test Immediately: Turn the ignition key to the "ON" position. Listen for the fuel pump prime sound (1-3 seconds). Hearing it is a good sign. Attempt to start the engine. If it starts and runs normally, the repair was successful.
  10. Replace TIPM Lid: Securely snap the cover back onto the TIPM, ensuring all latches engage.
  11. Clean Up: Put tools away.

Understanding Related Components (Fuses & ASD)

  • Fuel Pump Fuse: This critical fuse provides the main high-current power feed that the relay switches to the pump. It protects the wiring from overloads caused by a short-circuiting pump or damaged wiring. As mentioned, always check this fuse located within the TIPM if the pump isn't running.
  • Automatic Shutdown (ASD) Relay: The ASD relay controls power to major engine components like the fuel injectors and ignition coils, and crucially, it often provides the initial switched power signal to the fuel pump relay coil. The ASD relay and fuel pump relay operation are interdependent. If the ASD relay fails, neither the injectors/coils nor the signal to the fuel pump relay will work. Symptoms of a bad ASD relay are almost identical to a bad fuel pump relay – crank/no start, no fuel pump prime sound. The ASD relay is also located inside the TIPM. Refer to the diagram for its specific position (often near the fuel pump relay). Testing procedures are identical to the fuel pump relay. If the fuel pump relay tests good and power is getting to it but the pump still doesn't run, the ASD relay becomes a prime suspect.

When the Relay Isn't the Problem: Next Steps

If you replaced the relay (and checked the fuse) but the fuel pump still doesn't prime or the car still won't start:

  1. Recheck Relays & Fuses: Verify the new relay is properly seated. Double-check the fuel pump fuse. Check the ASD relay.
  2. Inspect Wiring: Look for obvious damage to wiring near the TIPM, along the harness leading towards the rear, or near the fuel pump access under the rear seat or trunk. Look for chafed, pinched, or melted wires. Corroded connectors are another common issue.
  3. Power Probe Test (Voltage at Relay Socket): With the ignition switched ON, carefully use a multimeter or test light (preferably backprobe) on the fuel pump relay socket terminals to check for power signals:
    • Pin 30: Should have constant battery voltage (12V+) at all times.
    • Pin 86: Should have voltage (ground signal from PCM) for a few seconds when ignition is turned ON. The PCM provides ground here to complete the coil circuit.
    • Pin 85: Should be connected to a switched ignition power source that provides 12V+ with key ON (PCM supplies power to the coil through this).
    • Pin 87: Should show 12V+ only when the relay is commanded ON (when key is turned ON or during cranking/running). You'll need to plug a working relay in temporarily or apply power manually.
  4. Power Probe Test at Fuel Pump Connector: Access the fuel pump electrical connector (usually requires removing the rear seat bottom and/or uncovering an access panel in the floor). With ignition ON or engine cranking, check for voltage on the pump power wire (often thicker, color varies - check a service manual for specific wire colors). Lack of voltage confirms an issue in the circuit upstream of the pump (wiring, relay, fuse). Presence of voltage confirms the pump motor itself is faulty.
  5. Ground Circuit Check: Ensure the fuel pump has a good ground connection. This usually involves testing continuity between the pump ground wire (near the connector) and a known good chassis ground point.
  6. Suspect the Fuel Pump: If voltage and ground reach the pump connector reliably when commanded, but the pump makes no sound and the engine still doesn't start, the pump motor itself is likely dead. Replacement typically involves dropping the fuel tank or accessing it through the trunk floor/back seat, a more involved task than relay replacement.
  7. Suspect the PCM: If critical signals like the ground command on pin 86 are absent when ignition is ON (and the ASD relay is verified good), the PCM itself or its internal drivers could be faulty, preventing it from activating the relays.

Temporary Relay Bypass (Jumping) - Advanced/Precautionary

Warning: This is strictly a diagnostic and emergency procedure. Driving with the fuel pump bypassed poses a serious safety risk – the pump runs continuously with key ON, building excessive pressure and consuming battery power if the engine isn't running. Prolonged use can cause overheating and damage. Only use this to confirm the relay circuit or limp the car to immediate repair.

  1. DISCONNECT THE BATTERY NEGATIVE TERMINAL. Essential safety step.
  2. Remove the fuel pump relay from its socket in the TIPM.
  3. Identify the relay socket pins using the diagram:
    • Pin 30 (Common): Constant Battery Power Input.
    • Pin 87 (Normally Open): Output to Fuel Pump.
    • Pin 85 & 86: Coil Control (ignored for bypass).
  4. The Goal: Connect Pin 30 to Pin 87 directly.
  5. Methods:
    • Using Jumper Wire: Use a piece of insulated wire with stripped ends. Insert one end firmly into the socket hole for Pin 30. Insert the other end into the socket hole for Pin 87.
    • Using Bent Paperclip/Small Wire: As a last resort, shape a sturdy paperclip or short piece of wire into a "U" that will bridge between Pin 30 and Pin 87 contacts inside the socket. Ensure it ONLY touches these two pins and nothing else. Cover exposed metal with electrical tape if possible.
  6. RECONNECT THE BATTERY NEGATIVE TERMINAL.
  7. Immediately: Turn the ignition key to ON. You should hear the fuel pump run continuously (no 1-2 second prime – it will stay on). Attempt to start the engine. If the engine starts and runs: This confirms the fuel pump and downstream wiring are functional, proving the original relay circuit (or ASD) was the issue. DO NOT DRIVE ANY FURTHER THAN ABSOLUTELY NECESSARY. Remove the jumper wire immediately after confirming the diagnosis or after getting the car to a safe location. If the pump still does not run: The problem lies elsewhere (pump, fuse between TIPM and pump, major wiring break, or pump ground).

Choosing the Right Replacement Relay

When purchasing a new fuel pump relay:

  • Match Specifications: Ensure the relay type, terminal configuration, and ratings (especially ampacity) match the original. The common Bosch-style relay for the Avenger is typically rated for 20-30 Amps or higher.
  • OEM vs. Aftermarket: OEM relays offer guaranteed compatibility but often cost more. Reputable aftermarket brands (Bosch, Denso, Omron, Hella, Standard Motor Products, etc.) usually work perfectly at a lower cost. Avoid extremely cheap no-name brands due to quality concerns.
  • Reliability: Relays are generally reliable components. A quality new relay should last many years.

Professional Diagnostic Assistance

If the DIY steps outlined here do not resolve your 2013 Dodge Avenger's starting issue, or you are uncomfortable performing electrical testing, seeking help from a qualified mechanic is recommended. They possess:

  • Advanced Diagnostic Scan Tools: Can read PCM codes and perform specific fuel system actuation tests.
  • Detailed Wiring Diagrams: Access to manufacturer-level schematics for accurate wire tracing.
  • Experience: Expertise in efficient diagnosis of complex electrical issues.

Knowing the location of the fuel pump relay and understanding how to test and replace it are essential skills for diagnosing and resolving common no-start problems with your 2013 Dodge Avenger. By methodically following the steps above – checking the fuse, locating the relay in the TIPM (diagram is crucial), testing or swapping the relay, and confirming the pump itself if needed – you can often restore your vehicle to operation quickly and avoid unnecessary repair costs. Always prioritize safety by disconnecting the battery before electrical work.

Back to blog