2013 Ford Explorer Fuel Pump: Your Ultimate Guide to Symptoms, Replacement & Prevention

The fuel pump is the critical heart of your 2013 Ford Explorer's fuel system. When it fails, your Explorer will stop running. Symptoms often start subtly but escalate rapidly. Key signs include engine sputtering under load or at high speeds, difficult or delayed starting, a sudden loss of power while driving, and unusual whining or humming noises from the fuel tank area. A significant drop in fuel efficiency can also be an early warning. Ignoring these warnings risks complete stalling, potentially in dangerous situations, and repeated failed starting attempts. Diagnosing accurately is essential before replacing components. Common diagnostic steps involve checking fuel pressure directly using a gauge, verifying operation of the fuel pump driver module and inertia switch, and performing simple electrical tests with a multimeter. Replacing the fuel pump assembly (often a combination of pump, strainer, sender unit, and sometimes level sensor) requires lowering or removing the fuel tank. This job demands technical skill, specific tools, and strict adherence to safety procedures due to flammable fuel hazards. Labor costs typically range from $500to$800 on top of the part cost ($150-$400+, depending on brand). Prioritizing high-quality replacement parts and professional installation ensures long-term reliability. Regular maintenance, like changing the fuel filter as specified (though the 2013 Explorer uses an integrated fuel tank strainer, making replacement less frequent than on older vehicles) and avoiding consistently running the tank near empty to keep the pump submerged and cooled, is the best prevention. Address any fuel system issues promptly to protect this vital component. Using top-tier gasoline can also contribute to cleaner internal components over the pump's lifespan. Being aware of these symptoms, diagnostic methods, and replacement considerations empowers you to maintain your Explorer's performance effectively.

Understanding the Vital Role of the Fuel Pump

The fuel pump performs one indispensable task: it delivers pressurized fuel from the gas tank, located under the rear passenger seats, up to the engine. Specifically, it pumps fuel through lines to the high-pressure pump on the engine, which then supplies the direct fuel injection system. Without the constant flow of fuel at the correct pressure generated by this pump, the engine cannot run. Modern fuel pumps are electric, submerged directly in the fuel tank. This design provides essential cooling and lubrication; the surrounding fuel dissipates heat generated by the pump's electric motor and lubricates its moving parts. Constant submersion is critical for the pump's longevity and proper function.

Recognizing Early and Critical Failure Symptoms (Expanded in Full Article)

• Engine Sputtering or Stalling: This is the most common symptom signaling trouble. The engine may shudder, hesitate, stumble, or misfire during acceleration or when driving uphill or at constant highway speeds. It feels like the vehicle is losing power intermittently. This occurs because a weakening pump struggles to maintain the consistent fuel pressure required for the engine control module to manage combustion optimally. When the pump fails completely, the engine stalls outright and cannot be restarted until the pump is replaced.
• Difficult or Delayed Starting: You turn the key to the start position. Instead of firing up immediately, the engine cranks excessively before finally starting, requiring many revolutions. Sometimes it requires multiple attempts. On occasions, the engine might start momentarily and then die immediately. This happens because a failing pump takes longer to build sufficient pressure after the vehicle has been sitting, especially when the engine is hot. If pressure isn't reached by the time the starting sequence completes, the engine either doesn't start at all or starts weakly and stalls.
• Sudden Loss of Power While Driving: This can be particularly alarming. The vehicle is driving normally, then abruptly loses power significantly, as if the engine isn't getting fuel. This loss of power can make it difficult to maintain speed or accelerate. It's a serious symptom indicating the pump is failing catastrophically and requires immediate attention to avoid a hazardous roadside breakdown.
• Unusual Whining or Humming from Fuel Tank Area: A persistent, noticeable whining, humming, or buzzing sound originating from the vicinity of the gas tank (under the rear seats) is a strong indicator. The sound volume often increases with engine speed (RPM) or becomes louder as the fuel level in the tank drops. A perfectly healthy pump should operate relatively quietly. An increasingly loud noise suggests internal wear or strain within the pump motor or its components.
• Decreased Fuel Efficiency: While not specific solely to the pump and often linked to other issues, a sudden, unexplained drop in miles per gallon can sometimes coincide with pump deterioration. If the pump cannot deliver fuel efficiently or consistently (perhaps struggling to maintain pressure or compensating internally), the engine management system might adjust settings, potentially leading to slightly richer mixtures or less optimal combustion efficiency.
• Illuminated Check Engine Light (CEL) & Fuel Pressure Codes: While a failing pump doesn't always immediately trigger the CEL, it often eventually does. Specific diagnostic trouble codes related to fuel system pressure will be stored. Common codes include P0087 (Fuel Rail/System Pressure Too Low), P0088 (Fuel Rail/System Pressure Too High), P0190 (Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor Circuit), or P0093 (Fuel System Leak Detected Large). A P0230 (Fuel Pump Primary Circuit) or related codes can point directly to electrical issues controlling the pump. A professional scan tool is needed to read these specific codes.
• Vehicle Stalls and Won't Restart: This is the ultimate symptom of complete pump failure. The engine stalls while driving and subsequent attempts to restart it fail. The starter cranks the engine normally, but there is no sign of ignition firing because absolutely no fuel is reaching the engine. Confirming a lack of fuel pressure at the engine confirms total pump failure.

Essential Diagnostic Steps Before Replacement (Expanded in Full Article)

• Verify Fuel Pressure: This is the definitive test. Using a fuel pressure test kit compatible with Ford's Schrader valve-equipped fuel rail, you physically measure the pressure with the ignition on (key turned to RUN without starting the engine) and while the engine is running. Compare the reading to the specific pressure specifications for your Explorer's engine. A reading significantly below specification at any point confirms insufficient delivery. Listening near the gas tank filler neck with the key turned to RUN should reveal the pump priming for 2-5 seconds. Silence indicates the pump isn't receiving power or has failed internally.
• Electrical Checks (Simplified): These tests require caution due to fuel system hazards. A multimeter is essential:
  • Inertia Safety Switch: Located in the passenger footwell or kick panel area, this switch shuts off the pump during impact. Verify it hasn't been accidentally tripped and that power flows through it correctly. Reset if tripped.
  • Fuel Pump Driver Module (FPDM): A common failure point on these vehicles, often located near the spare tire. It controls power to the pump. Check for burnt contacts, corrosion, and proper input signals. Failure of the FPDM mimics pump failure. Inspect its wiring harness thoroughly.
  • Power and Ground at Pump Connector: Often requiring some disassembly or access through an inspection panel, test for battery voltage (around 12V) at the pump's electrical connector for a few seconds after turning the ignition to RUN. Verify a solid ground connection. Having voltage at the connector while the pump remains silent confirms the pump motor has failed.
• Listen for Pump Activation: With the fuel filler cap removed and your ear near the opening, have an assistant turn the ignition key to the RUN position (not START). You should clearly hear the pump hum for 2-5 seconds as it primes the system. No sound means the pump isn't getting power or isn't functioning.
• Check Fuel Filter/Strainer: While the 2013 Explorer doesn't have an easily serviceable inline filter like older models, the fuel pump module contains an internal inlet strainer or "sock." If severely clogged (less common with modern fuels but possible with contaminated gas), it restricts flow. Replacing the pump assembly typically includes a new strainer.

Understanding the Fuel Pump Replacement Process (Expanded in Full Article)

• Scope: On the 2013 Explorer, you replace the entire fuel pump module assembly housed within the fuel tank. This module includes the electric pump, fuel level sending unit, pick-up strainer ("sock"), the pressure regulator on some models, and the associated mounting assembly and wiring.
• Safety First: This work involves highly flammable gasoline vapor. Work ONLY in a well-ventilated area away from ignition sources (sparks, flames, cigarettes). Disconnect the negative battery cable before starting. Critical Step: Depressurize the fuel system. Locate the Schrader valve on the engine's fuel rail (looks like a tire valve stem). Cover it with a thick rag and carefully press the center pin to bleed off pressure before disconnecting any lines. Have a certified ABC fire extinguisher immediately available. Wear safety glasses.
• Essential Parts & Quality: NEVER replace just the pump motor on a submerged module; replace the entire assembly. Choices are:
  • Ford Original Equipment Manufacturer (OEM): Highest quality, exact fit. Most expensive option.
  • Premium Aftermarket (e.g., Bosch, Delphi, Denso): High-quality replacements often meeting OEM specifications at a lower cost. Recommended choice for reliability.
  • Value/Budget Aftermarket: Lower cost, potentially lower reliability and lifespan. May be prone to premature failure or fitment issues. Generally not recommended for critical components.
• Labor Intensity: Requires significant work:
  • Lowering the fuel tank (positioned under the rear passenger seats).
  • Safely disconnecting fuel lines and electrical connections.
  • Removing the lock ring securing the module to the tank.
  • Carefully lifting the assembly out of the tank without damaging the sending unit float.
  • Installing the new module and all new seals/gaskets supplied with it.
  • Reinstalling the tank and reconnecting all components.
• Cost Factors: Total costs involve both parts and labor:
  • Parts Cost: $150to$500+, heavily dependent on brand (OEM highest, premium aftermarket mid-range, budget aftermarket lowest).
  • Labor Costs: Highly variable ($500to$800+ range is common). Depends on shop rates ($100-$150/hour typical) and location. Tank access requires substantial disassembly and careful handling of fuel, driving up labor time compared to some older vehicles with easier access. Some independent shops may charge less than dealerships. Tip: Get multiple quotes.
  • Total Estimated Repair Cost: Expect $650to$1300+ for a professional replacement job. Pre-drained tanks (less than 1/4 full) can slightly reduce labor time/cost.

Post-Replacement Checks & Ensuring Longevity (Expanded in Full Article)

• Visual & Operational Checks: After reassembly but before starting the engine, visually inspect for fuel leaks at all connections. Ensure electrical connectors are fully seated. The first startup might require several cranking cycles to purge air from the fuel lines and build pressure. Be patient. Verify smooth engine operation at idle and under load. Confirm the fuel gauge reads accurately.
• Maintenance is Key: The number one way to maximize fuel pump life:
  • Keep Fuel Levels Above 1/4 Tank: Running consistently low causes the pump to work harder without adequate fuel for cooling and lubrication, significantly increasing heat stress and wear. Aim to refuel around the 1/4 tank mark.
  • Use Quality Fuel: Purchase gasoline from reputable, high-volume stations. Avoid filling up immediately after a gas station tanker has refilled underground tanks (stirs up sediment). Top-tier detergent gasoline helps keep injectors and pump internals cleaner. Avoid gasoline suspected of contamination.
  • Address System Issues Promptly: Any problems causing reduced fuel flow or increased pump workload (clogged filters/strainers – though less frequent, leaky injectors forcing constant high-pressure cycling, significant vacuum leaks affecting fuel trims) can strain the pump. Fix underlying fuel system problems.

Making Smart Decisions: Repair or Replace?

Facing a fuel pump failure on a decade-old vehicle necessitates a practical decision. Assess the overall condition of your 2013 Explorer. Is the vehicle structurally sound, well-maintained, and otherwise reliable? If the answer is yes, replacing the pump is a justifiable investment to keep it running reliably for years. Conversely, if the vehicle has numerous other significant issues, high mileage, or a history of neglect, the cost of pump replacement might tip the scales towards considering vehicle replacement instead.

Conclusion: Proactive Awareness is Crucial

The fuel pump is fundamental to your 2013 Ford Explorer's operation. Recognizing the warning signs – sputtering, power loss, excessive cranking, unusual noises – empowers you to take action before a catastrophic failure leaves you stranded. Accurate diagnosis is key to avoid unnecessary repairs; electrical faults (like the FPDM failure) or simple errors like a tripped inertia switch can mimic pump failure. When replacement is confirmed, choosing a high-quality pump assembly and having it professionally installed, while following all safety precautions, ensures a durable repair. Adopting the habit of maintaining your fuel tank level significantly above empty is the single most effective preventative measure to protect your investment and extend the life of the new pump in your Explorer.