2013 Ford Fusion Fuel Pump Replacement: Cost, Steps & DIY Guide

Replacing the fuel pump in a 2013 Ford Fusion is a moderately complex repair, typically costing between $700and$1500 when professionally installed, or significantly less ($150-$500 in parts) for a confident DIY mechanic willing to invest 3-7 hours. The fuel pump assembly resides inside the fuel tank, requiring its lowering or removal for access. Success depends on thorough preparation, strict adherence to safety protocols for handling flammable fuel, and careful execution of steps to avoid damaging components or creating fuel leaks.

Understanding the Fuel Pump's Role and Failure Symptoms

The fuel pump is the heart of your Fusion's fuel system. Mounted inside the fuel tank, its primary function is to draw gasoline from the tank and deliver it under consistent high pressure to the fuel injectors in the engine. A healthy fuel pump is essential for smooth engine operation, consistent power delivery, and reliable starting.

Failure rarely happens suddenly without warning signs. Be alert to these common symptoms indicating a potential fuel pump problem in your 2013 Fusion:

1. Engine Sputtering at High Speeds or Under Load: This is a classic symptom. The engine might run fine at idle or low speeds but stutters, hesitates, or loses power when you demand more throttle, climb hills, or travel at highway speeds. This occurs because the failing pump struggles to deliver sufficient fuel volume and pressure when demand is highest.
2. Sudden Loss of Power While Driving: The engine might abruptly cut out or lose almost all power, potentially causing a dangerous situation if it happens while driving. This often happens during acceleration or while cruising at higher speeds. The engine might restart after sitting for a while as the pump cools temporarily, but the problem will repeat and worsen.
3. Difficulty Starting or Extended Cranking: The starter turns the engine over normally, but the engine takes a very long time to start or fails to start altogether. This is particularly noticeable when the engine is warm or after the car has sat for just a short period (often called "heat soak" restart issues, though cold start problems also occur). You might need multiple crank attempts.
4. Engine Stalling: The engine might unexpectedly stall during idle, deceleration, or even while driving at a constant speed. This stalling is usually unpredictable and unrelated to other potential causes like ignition issues.
5. Loss of Power When Accelerating: You press the accelerator pedal, but the car feels sluggish or unresponsive instead of accelerating briskly.
6. Whining Noise from the Fuel Tank Area: While some pump hum is normal, an unusually loud, high-pitched whining, buzzing, or howling noise coming from the rear of the car (near the fuel tank) is a strong indicator the pump bearings or motor are failing. The noise may change pitch or intensity with throttle position.
7. Check Engine Light (CEL) Illuminated: A failing fuel pump often triggers diagnostic trouble codes (DTCs) related to the fuel system. Common codes include P0087 (Fuel Rail/System Pressure Too Low), P0190 (Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor Circuit Malfunction), P0230 (Fuel Pump Primary Circuit Malfunction), or P2282 (Fuel Pressure Regulator 2 Performance). While not always present, a CEL supports other symptoms.

Confirming the Fuel Pump as the Culprit

Don't rush into replacing the pump based solely on symptoms. Take steps to verify the diagnosis:

1. Fuel Pressure Test: This is the most definitive diagnostic step. It requires a specialized fuel pressure test kit designed to connect to the Schrader valve typically found on the fuel rail in the engine bay (looks like a tire valve stem). Connect the gauge, turn the ignition key to the "ON" position (do not start the engine) to prime the system, and check for pressure build-up (specification is usually around 50-60 psi for the Fusion - verify in service manual). Then start the engine and monitor the pressure at idle and under load (if you can safely simulate this). Compare readings to Ford's specifications. Low pressure that doesn't build, drops rapidly after shutdown, or fluctuates abnormally points strongly to a pump or pressure regulator issue.
2. Listen for Pump Operation: Have an assistant turn the ignition key to the "ON" position. You should hear a distinct humming or buzzing sound from the rear of the car for 2-3 seconds as the pump primes the system. No sound suggests an electrical issue (blown fuse, bad relay, wiring fault) or a completely dead pump. Also listen while the engine cranks and idles.
3. Check Fuel Pump Fuse and Relay: Locate the fuse box in the passenger compartment (usually left of the steering wheel) and the engine compartment fuse box (consult your owner's manual for exact locations). Find the fuse and relay associated with the fuel pump. Visually inspect the fuse. Use a multimeter to test the fuse for continuity and swap the fuel pump relay with an identical one known to be good (like the horn relay) to see if the problem resolves.
4. Use a Scan Tool: While a basic OBD-II reader might show relevant codes, a more advanced diagnostic scan tool can often perform specific fuel system tests, command the fuel pump to run, and provide live data showing fuel pressure sensor readings and fuel pump duty cycle.

Gathering Essential Tools and Supplies

Proper preparation is critical for safety and efficiency. Gather all necessary items before starting the job:

• Safety Gear:
  • Heavy-duty work gloves
  • ANSI-approved safety glasses
• Fire Safety: Fire extinguisher (ABC rated) readily accessible at all times. Work in a well-ventilated area away from sparks, flames, or ignition sources. NO SMOKING!
• Fuel Handling:
  • Approved gasoline container (large capacity, like a 5-gallon can)
  • Siphon pump (mechanical or electric) designed for gasoline
  • New fuel line disconnect tools (O-ring safe) appropriate for the Fusion’s specific fittings (Quick Connects). These are CRITICAL and prevent damaging the fragile nylon lines.
  • Small bucket or drip pan
  • Clean rags (lint-free preferred)
  • Bag of absorbent material (kitty litter or oil absorbent pads)
• Basic Hand Tools:
  • Socket wrench set (Metric sockets: 8mm, 10mm, 13mm, 15mm, 18mm typically needed)
  • Torx bit set (T20, T25, T30 often needed for trim panels)
  • Torque wrench (in ft-lbs and inch-lbs ranges)
  • Wrench set (8mm, 10mm, 13mm, 15mm, 18mm)
  • Screwdrivers (flathead and Phillips)
  • Trim removal tools or plastic pry bars
  • Utility knife
  • Jack and sturdy jack stands (minimum 3-ton rating)
  • Wheel chocks
• Vehicle-Specific Items:
  • Replacement fuel pump assembly specific to the 2013 Ford Fusion (OEM Motorcraft FG1083 is often recommended, but quality aftermarket like Delphi, Bosch, or Spectra Premium are options - research reviews).
  • New fuel tank retaining strap bolts/nuts (highly recommended; Ford part numbers like W709390-S439 and W520518-S439 or equivalents)
  • New fuel pump gasket or seal kit (usually included with a quality pump assembly, but verify)
  • New filler neck seal/gasket (optional but recommended during tank reinstallation)
  • New strainer/sock filter (included with most assemblies, but verify)
• Optional but Helpful:
  • Transmission jack or extra floor jack with helper to support tank
  • Penetrating oil (for stubborn bolts/nuts)
  • Brake cleaner (non-chlorinated) for cleaning fuel residue
  • Aerosol silicon lubricant (for easing hose/fitting reassembly)

Step-by-Step Fuel Pump Replacement Procedure

Warning: Gasoline is extremely flammable and its vapors are explosive. Work ONLY in a well-ventilated area, away from any ignition sources (pilot lights, sparks, running appliances). Have a fire extinguisher rated for gasoline fires (Class B) immediately accessible. Wear safety glasses and gloves. Never work under a vehicle supported only by a jack; always use jack stands.

1. Prepare the Vehicle:
   • Park on a level, solid surface.
   • Chock the front wheels securely to prevent rolling.
   • Release the fuel filler door and unscrew the gas cap. This relieves any residual tank pressure through the vent system.
   • Disconnect the negative (-) battery cable. This is crucial to prevent electrical sparks.
2. Relieve Fuel System Pressure:
   • Locate the Schrader valve on the engine's fuel rail. It resembles a tire valve stem, often covered by a small cap.
   • Place a rag over the valve.
   • Carefully depress the valve core using a small screwdriver or the back of a fuel pressure gauge connector. Expect a brief spray of pressurized fuel into the rag.
   • Once the pressure is released, capture any remaining drips with the rag or a small container.
3. Deplete Fuel Tank Contents:
   • Goal: Leave only a few gallons (less than 1/4 tank is ideal) to significantly reduce the tank's weight and make handling safer and easier.
   • Method 1 (Preferred if possible): Drive the vehicle until the fuel gauge is very low.
   • Method 2 (Siphoning): Insert a siphon hose carefully into the fuel filler neck. Start the siphon flow using the pump mechanism. Transfer fuel into the approved gas container. Be meticulous – spilled fuel is a major fire hazard. Use absorbent material immediately for any spills.
4. Access the Fuel Tank Area:
   • Lower the spare tire if equipped. Remove any protective covers or access panels in the trunk/cargo area covering the tank/pump area. Often some trunk trim panels need removal to access the pump wiring/fuel lines if working entirely from above (common on some sedans like the Fusion). More commonly, access is underneath the car.
   • Securely lift the rear of the vehicle using the recommended jacking points. Place sturdy jack stands under the proper support points and lower the vehicle onto them. Double-check stability. Apply the parking brake.
5. Disconnect Fuel Lines and Wiring (Above Tank Access):
   • If accessible from above through trunk panels, locate the fuel pump electrical connector and disconnect it.
   • Disconnect the fuel feed and return lines at the top of the pump assembly using the correct O-ring safe disconnect tools. Practice on an accessible similar fitting elsewhere first if unsure.
6. Lower the Fuel Tank:
   • If primarily working from underneath:
     • Support the tank securely with a transmission jack, extra floor jack, or sturdy blocks. Tanks are awkward and heavy, especially with residual fuel.
     • Locate the two fuel tank retaining straps running front-to-back across the tank bottom. Note their position for reinstallation.
     • Remove the nuts and washers securing the straps at both ends (usually front and rear mounting points). Strap bolts often attach to the chassis with nuts on top; they may be severely rusted. Penetrating oil is helpful here.
     • Crucial: Replace the tank strap bolts and nuts. They are often single-use torque-to-yield bolts that should not be reused. New fuel tank mounting kit nuts and bolts are relatively inexpensive and vital for secure tank mounting. (Ford P/N often like W709390-S439 and W520518-S439)
     • Carefully lower the support (jack) holding the tank only a few inches, just enough to access the electrical connector and fuel lines on top of the pump module housing.
     • Trace the fuel lines and wiring bundle leading to the top of the pump/sender assembly. Disconnect the main electrical connector using its locking tab.
     • Using the O-ring safe disconnect tools, carefully disconnect both fuel lines (feed/return) from the top of the pump module. Have rags and a drip pan ready for residual fuel. Some residual fuel leakage is normal.
     • Continue lowering the support/tank slowly until it rests securely but still partially suspended. Be mindful of filler neck tension – you may need to partially detach the filler neck hose clamp near the body if significant lowering is required. If separating the filler neck, have the new seal ready for reassembly.
7. Remove the Old Fuel Pump Module:
   • On the top of the pump assembly, you'll see a large plastic locking ring holding the entire pump module in the tank.
   • Cleaning: Remove any dirt and debris from the area around the locking ring before proceeding.
   • Locking Ring Removal: Use a brass punch or drift (non-sparking) and a hammer to carefully tap the locking ring counterclockwise (looking down from above). DO NOT use a steel chisel, as it can spark. Special fuel pump lock ring wrenches (spanner wrenches) exist but are often specific to the tool type; the punch method is common. It will be stiff. Alternate tapping points around the ring. Protect your eyes – dirt or debris can fall.
   • Once the ring is loose and unthreaded, lift it off.
   • Carefully lift the pump assembly straight up and out of the tank. Maneuver it so the attached float arm doesn't snag or bend. Be prepared for residual fuel sloshing out as you lift it. Place it aside into a suitable container to catch dripping fuel.
   • Important: Note the exact orientation and position of the fuel pump module relative to the tank and float arm. This ensures correct reinstallation.
8. Prepare the Tank and New Pump:
   • Tank Inspection: Look inside the tank opening. Inspect for excessive sediment, debris, rust, or damage. Wipe out any dirt or residue carefully with clean lint-free rags. Never use paper towels or shop rags that leave lint inside the tank. Do not attempt to flush the tank unless you have professional means to dry it completely afterwards; small amounts of residue can be handled by the new pump's strainer. Flushing improperly can cause significant problems.
   • New Pump Assembly Prep: Unpack the new fuel pump assembly. Compare it meticulously to the old unit. Ensure the electrical connectors, hose fittings, and mounting points are identical. Transfer the new gasket/seal (O-ring or quad-ring) to the top of the module housing. Lightly lubricate the seal and/or the seal groove on the tank flange with a tiny amount of clean engine oil or special fuel lubricant (do NOT use silicone grease or petroleum jelly - they degrade rubber). Lubricating the seal dramatically improves sealing and prevents twisting/cutting during installation. Install the new fuel strainer/sock onto the bottom of the pump inlet tube if it's not pre-installed.
9. Install the New Fuel Pump Module:
   • Carefully lower the new assembly into the fuel tank, aligning it exactly as the old one was removed. Pay close attention to the position of the float arm. Ensure it's seated properly and moves freely.
   • Ensure the gasket/seal is clean and properly seated in its groove or on the pump flange.
   • Place the large locking ring onto the tank opening, aligning its lugs or notches with the tank.
   • Using the brass punch and hammer, tap the locking ring clockwise (looking down from above) until it is fully seated and tight. Alternate tapping points around the ring to seat it evenly. You should hear a "snug" sound as it seats against the stop. Do not overtighten, but ensure it is secure. Consult a service manual for torque spec if possible (often hand-tight plus a specific turn, e.g., 1/8 turn).
10. Reconnect Fuel Lines and Wiring:
    • Lift the tank slightly to regain access if needed.
    • Reconnect the electrical connector to the top of the new pump module. Push it firmly until the locking tab clicks into place.
    • Reconnect the fuel lines to their respective fittings on the pump module. Ensure you are connecting them correctly (feed to feed, return to return if distinct). Push the lines in until the retaining clips engage with a distinct "click." Gently tug on each line to confirm it is securely locked. DO NOT force fittings without proper alignment.
11. Reinstall the Fuel Tank:
    • Carefully raise the tank back into position using your support jack/helper. Ensure the filler neck correctly aligns with its hose and the fuel tank shields/protectors are positioned correctly if applicable.
    • Reattach the filler neck hose and secure the hose clamp tightly if it was disconnected. Install the new filler neck seal if you removed it.
    • Position the tank straps correctly over the tank. Thread the new bolts/washers/nuts through the strap ends and into the chassis mounts. Follow a criss-cross pattern, gradually tightening the nuts/bolts by hand initially. Crucially, torque the strap bolts/nuts to the manufacturer's specification (consult a service manual - typically around 35-40 ft-lbs for a Fusion, but this can vary; using the new hardware is vital). Overtightening can distort the tank; undertightening is dangerous. Replace broken or missing shield clips.
12. Reconnect Components and Lower Vehicle:
    • Reconnect any additional components disconnected during access (EVAP lines, vapor hoses).
    • Double-check that all electrical connections are secure and all fuel lines are firmly connected and locked.
    • Slowly and carefully remove the jack stands and lower the vehicle to the ground.
13. Reinstall Interior Components:
    • Reconnect battery terminals (negative first if disconnected earlier).
    • Replace any trunk access panels or trim removed earlier. Secure all fasteners.
14. Priming the System and Initial Test:
    • Turn the ignition key to the "ON" position (do not start). Listen carefully near the rear of the car. You should hear the new fuel pump activate for 2-3 seconds as it pressurizes the system. This is a crucial sign of electrical connection success. Perform this 2-3 times.
15. Inspect for Leaks (Critical Safety Step):
    • Visually inspect all fuel line connections above the pump (if accessible from above) and underneath the car near the tank and along the lines.
    • Start the engine. Let it idle.
    • Extremely Carefully and Cautiously: Smell for gasoline fumes. Visually inspect every single fuel line connection you touched, both under the hood (especially at the Schrader valve) and under the car near the tank and pump module for any signs of dripping fuel or wetness.
    • Apply light pressure to fuel line fittings to ensure no leaks emerge. Use a flashlight if necessary under the vehicle. Any hint of a leak must be addressed immediately by shutting off the engine and correcting the fitting.

Post-Installation Test Drive

• Initial Idle: Let the engine run at idle for several minutes. Monitor for smooth operation and ensure no leaks develop.
• Road Test: Drive the vehicle cautiously at first. Check for normal acceleration without hesitation or sputtering. Confirm power delivery is consistent at varying engine loads and speeds (city driving, highway entry). Listen for any unusual noises from the fuel pump area (a very slight new hum might be normal initially, but loud whining is not). Test restarting the engine when cold and warm.
• Monitor: Pay close attention to the fuel gauge – it should register accurately and move smoothly as you drive. Note any new symptoms or the recurrence of old ones, though they should be completely resolved.

Cost Considerations: 2013 Ford Fusion Fuel Pump Replacement

• DIY Cost:
  • Part Cost: The cost of the fuel pump assembly itself is the primary DIY expense. Prices vary significantly:
    • OEM Motorcraft (FG1083): $250-$400+
    • Premium Aftermarket (Delphi, Bosch): $150-$300
    • Economy Aftermarket: $70-$150
    • Strainer/sock filter is usually included.
    • Fuel pump gasket/seal is usually included in quality assemblies. Always verify. Cost separately: $5-$15.
    • New tank strap bolts/nuts: Highly recommended. Approx $15-$30 for the kit.
    • Filler neck seal (if replaced): ~$5-$15.
  • Misc Supplies: Fuel container, siphon, rags, cleaners, lubricant - Typically under $50assumingbasicshopsuppliesexist.Fuellinedisconnecttools:$15 - $40.
  • Total DIY Range: $150-$500+ (depending heavily on pump brand, necessity for tank hardware/supplies). Savings primarily come from avoiding labor.
• Professional Mechanic Cost:
  • Labor: This is the biggest expense due to the labor-intensive process (tank drop/access, fuel handling safety protocols). Expect labor times of 2.5 - 5.0 hours. Labor rates vary widely by region and shop ($100-$200/hr), leading to a labor cost of $250-$1000.
  • Parts: Shops typically use OEM or higher-grade aftermarket parts, adding $200-$450 to the bill.
  • Shop Supplies/Fees: Often $20-$50.
  • Total Professional Range: $700-$1500+. (Dealership prices often trend towards the higher end).

Key Takeaways for Success

• Safety is Paramount: Treat gasoline with utmost respect. Ventilation, fire extinguisher, no sparks, eye protection – non-negotiable.
• Confirmation: Don't skip diagnostics. Verify the fuel pump is the actual problem through pressure testing and electrical checks.
• Preparation is Key: Drain the tank as much as possible (less than 1/4 tank). Have all necessary tools, parts (especially new tank strap bolts and seals!), and supplies ready before you start.
• The Disconnects: Using the CORRECT O-ring safe disconnect tools is critical for nylon fuel lines. Practicing on another fitting builds confidence.
• Locking Ring & Seals: Careful installation of the ring (even tapping, correct torque) and proper sealing with a lightly lubricated NEW gasket are essential to prevent leaks. Never reuse the old seal.
• Leak Test: This is mandatory after reassembly. A visual check while the engine is running is the only reliable way to detect leaks initially. Check again after the test drive.
• Rusty Bolts: Strap bolts/nuts and exhaust hanger bolts often corrode severely. Penetrating oil applied days in advance and patience are vital.
• Quality Parts: Investing in a reputable pump (OEM Motorcraft or top-tier aftermarket like Bosch/Delphi) significantly increases reliability and lifespan. Avoid the cheapest unknown brands.
• Know Your Limits: If the complexity of dropping the tank, handling fuel safely, or dealing with rusty hardware feels overwhelming, seeking professional help is the smart and safe choice.

Successfully replacing the fuel pump in your 2013 Ford Fusion brings back its reliability and performance. By adhering strictly to safety practices, meticulously following the steps, and prioritizing quality parts, you can restore your car's vitality, whether you tackle the job yourself or entrust it to a professional.